Front Disk Rotor Recommendations (EK1/ EM1/ EK4)

[Alvis]

Hi guys,

I'm thinking of changing my front rotors and was wondering if anyone could share their recommendations or experiences?

I'm after something that is proven good quality.

I have new QFM brake pads ready to go and my goal of the upgrade is for improved feel and a bit more bite in stopping power. Using Castrol Dot 5 brake fluid and brakes are bled every 15,000 kms.


Thanks,
Alvis

[DreadAngel]

Which spec QFM pads?

[Alvis]

HPX (so spirited and everyday driving)...

[.Dave]

a lot of people claim that rda rotors aren't as good as dba, and claim that they crack under hard driving.

obviously this is completely dependant on driving style and power, but I had 2 trackdays with rda slotted and dimpled rotors (also come in a cool grey colour) and had no problems. Also had 1 trackday on the slotted ones and also had no problems. They are cheap and good enough quality

[curtis265]

I did street diving and they warped after 3000k

[.Dave]

Yeah, I've heard mixed results but personally I've had no issues. So it's weird to hear such different results. OP if you want proven quality try some decent dba ones

[curtis265]

mixed results are from a lack of QC often associated with cheap manufacturing.

[i-jrdm]

I've got a brand new set of DBA 4000 series rotors for sale, let me know if interested. they are top quality

[Hondarally]

DBA well known for quality

RDA are cheaper, but still good quality. Plenty of track / rally cars have been using them for years without major problems. If properly installed / maintained etc they should last a very long time without issue. I seriously doubt that any rotor would warp after 3000km of normal road driving. What you experienced was probably DTV due to transfer of pad material. This is the common cause of shudder, and is much more complicated than "cheap rotors".

OP - what brakes are on the front of your car? Do you have the 262mm brakes or 240mm brakes? Are you changing rotors because you're running out of brakes, and you need to upgrade or because your rotors are worn out? More information needed to be able to help you. There are plenty of upgrade options available.

[dove grey 64]

Had both dba and rda on numerous cars, always had warping issues, changed to protex rotors and haven't had any issues. Way cheaper and better in my experience.

[curtis265]

RDA are cheaper, but still good quality. Plenty of track / rally cars have been using them for years without major problems. If properly installed / maintained etc they should last a very long time without issue. I seriously doubt that any rotor would warp after 3000km of normal road driving. What you experienced was probably DTV due to transfer of pad material. This is the common cause of shudder, and is much more complicated than "cheap rotors".


No m8 they were our of plane, only very slightly though

[stndrd]

Project Mu CRD rotors

[Mkx]

brembo rotors - evo and sti use them so thats enough proof though they cost a bit more then dba (roughly $120 new for a pair of front blanks)

for more bite you could upgrade your brake booster get a type R one for a big gain while not having to get extreme brake pads and having your rotors wear out too fast

[mooshie]

Hondarally- forgive my ignorance but what does DTV stand for/mean and how to stop it happening?

[Hondarally]

DTV is disc thickness variation (google it for more info).

There are several causes, but the main one seems to be face runout on the rotor, causing a light drag of the pad on part of the rotor. The wears the rotor in one spot, which gives you thin spots on the rotor, causing the pulsing on the brake pedal. Runout can be due to warped rotors, but more commonly due to incorrect fitment (it only takes a very small particle of dirt on the mounting flange to give a slight face runout).

Other causes are uneven transfer of material from pad to rotor, and vice versa. The pads normally deposit a layer of material onto the rotor, and harsh braking / holding brakes on while stationary (with hot brakes) can cause this transfer, leaving high spots on the rotor.

Generally a warped rotor will not, in itself cause brake shudder. Over time it can lead to DTV which will cause the shudder.

[Alvis]

That's awesome, thanks for all the comments guys - it's really helpful.

At the moment I'm leaning towards the Brembo's - I don't mind if I have to pay a bit more since I've never even changed a pair of brake pads (front or rear) on this car since it came out of the factory - 86,500kms now - not sure if that's good or bad - but I must be a light braker because there is still meat in the fronts! But could be why I'm just not feeling the 'bite' I'd like out of them. So if I change pads I'll do rotors at the same time anyway.

Any tips/ recommendations on the rotor install?

And is there a settling in period with new rotors i.e not going out on your first drive and smashing a hard stop?

[Alvis]

The most comprehensive EK brake upgrade guide I've ever seen:

http://m.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3044628&styleid=18

[Mkx]

philips head screw driver and hammer it solid into the rotor bolts

make sure your philips head fits snug into the rotor screws - when hammering be sure to unwind the screw a bit

make sure rotors are clean when installing - they should not require machining as they are brand new



bleed brakes when you are done (if brake pedal sinks when braking you have air in your lines bleed again - DIY bleed kit is about $15 from local auto store) - should be done every brake change but i do mine every 2 years or when the fluid starts to change colour whenever i see fit

when bleeding brakes make sure the fluid does not run empty in the brake reservoir (one bottle of brake fluid is enough, usually use about half a bottle) - top up every time it reaches low mark to prevent major air in lines



adjust e-brake if you need to sometimes after rear brake changes the e-brake goes loose (when adjusting you need to jack car so both rear tyres are off the ground - taken from honda service manual if u need pm me and i can send you the diagram which has instructions or you can youtube or google it)

test if e-brake is good find a quiet street with a steep incline pull e-brake up see if car rolls back with just the e-brake up - test also to see if car rolls down forwards and adjust accordingly (this is common in most rear brake changes where e-brake requires adjusting)



brake in period for new pads or rotors is just driving slowly (any speed is ok just not highway speed yet best to do in quiet street) and braking hard but not extreme - do a few times do not come to a complete stop accelerate when you slow down repeat this a few times

after a few goes you will soon smell the brake pads and the brakes may seem to fade (excessive heat from braking) - relax this is normal after the brakes cool it will stabilize you may see smoke sometimes again this is normal

cruise around normally for a bit using brakes a little as possible as you are waiting for the brakes to cool down (a few minutes) try not to come to a dead stop - when you feel it has a been a few minutes test braking as you would in traffic conditions where you're brakes should work just fine if not then the brake system is probably still too hot



you're brake test is now complete - happy cruising

[Alvis]

That's awesome Mkx, thanks so much for your very comprehensive reply. Appreciate it mate, a big help

+1 rep

[m.o.d.aus]

Another option that I havent seen posted yet is the mini cooper 'bigger brake' upgrade:
Rotors from ~05/06 mini are 280mm, which are 2mm off ITR/Prelude BB6/CRV(?) rotors, also offset is within a ~1mm to honda specs.
Also rotors are 4x100
Then you can run ITR/Prelude BB6 calipers without the need for 5x114.3 conversion, calipers should mount up fine to 262mm ek hubs.

Google 'integra mini brake upgrade' - first result, heaps of documented info on this swap.

Also I got quoted $60 per side for standard replacement mini cooper rotors. Then what ever a pair of calipers set you back
So if you want a bump in stopping power, consider this upgrade :)