[CL9] The DEFINITIVE guide to SERVICING your Accord Euro

[Fredoops]

Forget your Logbook....

Why? well my euro had just turned 10, and over the past 10 years I've noticed a thing or 2 about 7th gen. The log book suggested scheduled is far from adequate in some aspects.

Now an interesting point, most of us would follow the "normal" service schedule without even questioning it... BUT if you read what constitutes "Severe" conditions....

*Driving less than 8km
*Driving in extremely hot (35% +) conditions
*Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving
*Towing, roof rack or mountainous conditions
*Driving on muddy, dusty or de-iced roads

Although if you "occasionally" drive in severe conditions you could follow normal service conditions.... Lets be honest here, if you live in ANY of the major metro areas in Australia and you drive to work/school... or take your kids to school every morning. Given our road and traffic conditions... you are already nudging "severe"....

I'll break it down to the following structure:

Component: What is to be serviced
What does the logbook say (normal schedule): the schedule from "normal conditions" as per user manual
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):the schedule from "severe conditions" as per user manual
What does fredoops say: my humble opinion and reasoning behind it

So, without further ado, I'll make a start.

Component: Engine Oil
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 10000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 5000 km
What does fredoops say: FULL Synthetic in the grades of (0w30, 5w30, 0w40, 5w40, 10w40) every 10000km (if you long life full syn oil you can push a little further). Mineral don't last compared to synthetic, and consider even thicker oil (Xw-50+) if you burn thru a lot.

Component: Engine Oil Filter
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 20000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 10000 km
What does fredoops say: Whenever you replace engine oil (see above)

Component: Engine Intake Air Filter
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 40000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 40000 km
What does fredoops say: for OEM style paper filter, check it every service and replace when necessary... you'd better off with a serviceable (cleanable) foam (unifilter) or cotton filter (K&N), cheaper in the long run and easier on the enviornment.

Component: Fuel (petrol) filter
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 80000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 40000 km
What does fredoops say: between 40-60k, 80000km is wayyyy to optimistic considering how crappy some of our fuel is.

Component: Sparkler Plug
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 100000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 100000 km
What does fredoops say: ditto, if you use iridium, it will last 100k km.

Component: Engine Coolant
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 200000 km or 10 years
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 200000 km or 10 years
What does fredoops say: i'd do it every 6-7 years or 125,000km, it doesnt cost much

Component: AUTOMATIC Transmission Fluid
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 120000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 600000 km
What does fredoops say: HELL NO... completely inadequate, so:
Daily Traffic & Modified: every 20,000 km drain & fill, 3x3 flush every 60-90k
Other more normal/light user: every 40,000 km drain & fill, 3x3 flush every 120k
Note: USE FULL SYNTHETIC ATF (compatible with Honda ATF), forget ATF-Z1/DW1 and all that non-sense.

Component: AUTOMATIC Transmission Fluid FILTER
What does the logbook say (normal schedule): Never, doesn't exist
What does the logbook say (severe schedule): Never, doesn't exist
What does fredoops say: LOL@Honda for this one, it DOES exist, Change every 2nd ATF change.

Component: Manual Transmission Fluid
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 120000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 60000 km
What does fredoops say: If in doubt, use a full synthetic manual fluid, and do it between 40-60k km everytime, more if you track obviously.

Component: Braking Fluid
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 3 years
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 3 years
What does fredoops say: Ditto, however, if you used Super dot 4 instead of dot 3, then you'd want to replace it earlier since Super Dot 4 sucks water.

Component: Power Steering Fluid
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):No mention
What does the logbook say (severe schedule): No mention
What does fredoops say: ... Do it every 50000km anyway, it's only 1 liter for like $20 bucks... Power steering fluid gets REALLY dirty....

Component: Air Con Filter (inside cabin)
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 30000 or 1 year
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 30000 or 1 year
What does fredoops say: EVERY YEAR, it gets really dirty, also consider a Charcoal or HEPA grade filter instead of the simple paper filter if you have athma or other respiratory diseases.

[Rooster]

Thank you for this

[ChaosMaster]

Have you actually notice any difference going with the Charcoal cabin filter? Doesn't seem to have done much for me. Oh, and for guys looking at Manual Gearbox Fluid. I would recommend Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission oil or RedLine Manual Transmission oil (MTL not MT-90 and especially NOT NS/Shockproof oil)

[Fredoops]

Have you actually notice any difference going with the Charcoal cabin filter? Doesn't seem to have done much for me. Oh, and for guys looking at Manual Gearbox Fluid. I would recommend Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission oil or RedLine Manual Transmission oil (MTL not MT-90 and especially NOT NS/Shockproof oil)

I have 2 packets of "bamboo charcoal" air cleaner thingy in the car, it works really well in supressing the dog smell in my car whenever the k9 decided to take a ride.

it wont kill germs but it will supress the "funkiness"

[littlebo]

My 2 cents bout AT tranny fluid change . Every 30k full flush, not just a 3L replacement. Replace 3L, run the car and then pull the hose off tranny radiator and drain old oil while you refill it with fresh one, second guy changes AT selector continuously during this , D-R-N-1-2. Youll see when clean oil will come out the hose , its around after 4-5 liters of fresh oil you replaced on top of standart routine. This way your tranny will last forever.

[Cla]

Thanks for this.
Suggestions maybe throw some brand recommendations that you use, part numbers or link anything you buy from the net/ebay. Prices etc.

Other than that, it's great!

Ryco numbers:
Fuel Filter = Z649
Oil Filter = Z547
Air Filter = A1508

[twing]

I used to think k&n is better than OEM.
For more air flow.... yes
But for better filtration, it's OEM.

[jzx_andy]

thanks for this, had a good read yesterday before i bought all the fluids and filters for my 120k km service (Y) :D

[Jasemas]

Would it be a good idea to expend each section of the write up to includ reccomended and proven oil brands
-ATF filter pat number/aftermarket part number
Maybe also include DIY links too
Good write up mate

[fqyyy]

USE FULL SYNTHETIC ATF (compatible with Honda ATF), forget ATF-Z1/DW1 and all that non-sense.

any suggestion for ATF?

[MikeCl]

IMHO Redline D4 ATF (bit expensive but lasts). Lot of owners have been running this for years, me included. Long term testing against filter and magnetic plug deposits suggest it may be one of the best.

For Air-conditioning systems. Apart from filter replacement, Valvoline make an AIR sanitiser that kills Mould, Mildew and odour causing Bacteria throughout the entire ducting system. Simple to use and takes about 4 minutes. A must for anyone with allergy's.

[fqyyy]

IMHO Redline D4 ATF (bit expensive but lasts). Lot of owners have been running this for years, me included. Long term testing against filter and magnetic plug deposits suggest it may be one of the best.

For Air-conditioning systems. Apart from filter replacement, Valvoline make an AIR sanitiser that kills Mould, Mildew and odour causing Bacteria throughout the entire ducting system. Simple to use and takes about 4 minutes. A must for anyone with allergy's.

IMHO Redline D4 ATF, do you know does supercheap or repco sell redline? I think it is made in US

[Fredoops]

i had redline D4, had to get it in from AMAZON usa.

now using valvoline maxlife.

[MikeCl]

http://www.performancelub.com/Redline%20pricelist.htm

http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?c=gnfenlei&a=list&gnfid=21

Both are in Australia.

Like I said, a bit expensive but at $89 a gallon it's a lower price by quite a bit compared to Redline Australia.

[Fredoops]

When I got mine form amazon it turned out to be $17 a quart shipped, cheaper than local suppliers

[fqyyy]

http://www.performancelub.com/Redline%20pricelist.htm

http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?c=gnfenlei&a=list&gnfid=21

Both are in Australia.

Like I said, a bit expensive but at $89 a gallon it's a lower price by quite a bit compared to Redline Australia.

Thanks a lot, and just wonder how much litre should I get?

[fqyyy]

i had redline D4, had to get it in from AMAZON usa.

now using valvoline maxlife.

http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-products/all-products/transmission-fluids-and-gear-oils/automatic-transmission-fluid/maxlife-synthetic-atf
do you mean this one? does 4L enough for change, thanks

[Fredoops]

http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-products/all-products/transmission-fluids-and-gear-oils/automatic-transmission-fluid/maxlife-synthetic-atf
do you mean this one? does 4L enough for change, thanks

Yes that's compatible with ATF Z1 used in the CL9, 4L is enough for a single drain and fill

CU2 use a slightly different fluid

[dirlok]

great post, thank you

[fairplay]

Hey Guys, My 05 AT Lux CL9 has just ticked over 30,000k. It has a full service history and i believe the ATF was changed around 16,000k according to the logbook. Anything besides an Oil/Filter change i should do? Last service was at 22,000K when i bought it.

Cheers

[Jasemas]

Just what the owners manual suggests
Also
There is an inline transmission filter - ask about part

[ChaosMaster]

Just an update for all Manual CL9 owners. The gearbox in the CL9 like the thinner 75w80 oil, and most brands such as Amsoil and Redline as well as OEM is 75W80. If you want smooth gear changes, it's best to stick with this. Recently, I had my gearbox oil changed by OTR Clayton, who use only Motul oil. Now while Motul oil is great, unfortunately they make only 75W90 oil, which is way too thick. The result is the syncros, especially in first and second where there are multiple syncros, don't work as well, resulting in the gearbox not wanting to move out of 1st, or go into 1st or 2nd on a fair few occasions (due to ratios not matching at the point of time). Of course, the argument (by OTR and Motul) would be that the thicker oil provides more 'protection' to the gears and syncros, especially when thrashed or tracked, but for for daily driving, it's more of an annoyance than anything.

[Martin77]

Component: Braking Fluid
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 3 years
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 3 years
What does fredoops say: Ditto, however, if you used Super dot 4 instead of dot 3, then you'd want to replace it earlier since Super Dot 4 sucks water.


Brake fluid is probably one of the most neglected fluid to be changed. Bleeding the fluid is not easy, the fluid is corrosive and the system tend to work for a long time.
I am assuming that the problem with brake fluid is the moisture absorbed to the fluid causing corrosion to the brake system.
For the DIYers, would it be better/ easier to test the moisture content of the fluid (say every 2 years)? A tester is about $25 plus shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647626-Brake-Fluid-Tester/dp/B00OCEGTZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452829351&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+fluid+tester

[Fredoops]

I would personally reduce it to 2 years for brake fluid now days....

PS: I just did a power steering fluid flush following this method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4lKhX2rUmw

I had 3 bottles and i think its not quite enough..... you'll want 4 bottles/litres for a complete flush

[Martin77]

PS: I just did a power steering fluid flush following this method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4lKhX2rUmw

I had 3 bottles and i think its not quite enough..... you'll want 4 bottles/litres for a complete flush

Thanks Fred. I also did mine a few weeks back (looked so dirty). I did not have such setup (hoses, clamps, etc...) so with the existing hose and small bottle I replaced 1L by turning the steering wheel left and right (on jack stand). Next time I should do it properly like what you have done with 3 or 4 litres.

I haven't done the brake fluid yet. It was done around 5 years ago. Maybe I will get the brake fluid tester (moisture level) from Amazon and see if it needs replacing.
I hate doing brake fluid.

[Martin77]

Component: Fuel (petrol) filter
What does the logbook say (normal schedule):Every 80000 km
What does the logbook say (severe schedule):Every 40000 km
What does fredoops say: between 40-60k, 80000km is wayyyy to optimistic considering how crappy some of our fuel is.


I thought I might share with you with my recent fuel filter change from a car (CL9) I bought with approx 130k km about six weeks ago. Looking at the service manual, the fuel filter has not been changed at the 80k km mark. The car still runs good but the idle has slight vibration that can be felt on the steering wheel (I hope this will fix it, I haven't tried the car yet). The car whom I bought it from was from a colleague at work, lived in Wollongong which is about 80km South of Sydney (fuel quality may not be the best, depending where he fills it from).
29135

This is a cut out of the top of the filter (at 130k km) where the fuel goes in. I then cut off the bottom (outlet) and it is similar in colour to the top.
For anyone who decided to change the fuel filter please remember to connect the tube between the pump and the filter housing. It caused me a little confusion in why the car didn't start once I changed the filter.

[ribze1]

Awesome thread, it should be made sticky!