B18c7 white smoke under full throttle

[Dyln.bxtr]

To begin with I'm running the b18c7 from a 2000 ITR in my ek.
I have been meaning to do a build thread, however a combination of uni and work has made time short.

Recently I've started to notice smoke from the exhaust, what looks to be white through the review. It's been happening predominately under cold whether, cold starts, and only at the top end of where vtec is. Between 6~9k, both with vtec but especially when oil is still cold and vtec not engaging. It appears to be a continues plume until I shift, and then it stops only to happen when I hit the top end again.
I only just saw it once I had changed in a new cold air intake that is plumbed down near the bumper, the IAT is not plumbed into the intake. Could this be causing it to run lean? (Reading hot temp but instead getting cold air).
I've also been told that it may be the PCV valve. Is this a real possibility??

Any and all help will be grand.

[Vvvtec]

Between 6~9k, both with vtec but especially when oil is still cold and vtec not engaging

Are you revving to 9k cold? Shiieettt

[u mad?]

Lmao idiot.

[Riviera]

Omg Dylan...

If you're revving the **** off it cold, that's a stupid thing to do...


Chances are oil is getting passed the rings or the valve stem seals.

Could be condensation inside the intake pipe which could cause the white smoke

Black smoke - fuel
White smoke - lean or water
Blue smoke - oil

There is a fine line between blue and white

The white smoke really shouldn't have a smell of its water
If its lean it dissipates fast and burns hot so your nostrils will sting a bit
Oil stinks
And we'll fuel smells like fuel

[carayan]

Well how else does the motor get warm?

Fastest way to warm up your rings it's to be on limiter once you've cold started

[mocchi]

great info hear guise.








hehe

[bennjamin]

Silly things aside


My last b18c7 blew a little white smoke occasionally on full throttle - next owner informed me it was a hairline crack in the head somewhere letting excess oil or coolant thru

[amant02]

lol vtecing while the motor is cold, then complains about engine breaking down.

I wonder wats wrong here op.

If you want to do your PCV Vavle there are heaps of DIY's on here and HT. Really easy to do and cheap. Chances are you still have the original PCV that the engine come with 20 million years ago. But somewhat rare issue for them to wreck. Just clean it and put it back to see if it makes a difference. You will be able to tell, from memory it was the sound the valve makes which will give it away.

Im in for a headgasket issue. Revving to 9k on cold just lol. Why don't you just giveaway 4k to Amants Foundation Charity.

[vtach]

White smoke doesn't always mean water my friends integra vtir blows a lot of white smoke under heavy acceleration, his car burns a lot of oil and stinks like oil.

[Dyln.bxtr]

Yeah, I've heard they tend to burn oil. But I am getting strong smells of fuel when I stop, that's why I was wondering if it could be running lean...
Only reason I brought up PCV is because that's something one of the shops told me it could be, chances are it will still be the original as you said.
And I'm not full throttle off cold, it's gone past it's warm idle and about 1/4 warm. But I'm also not going all the way to 9k on it cold either, only to about 7.
Although even once warm it is still blowing white smoke under full.

[curtis265]

Yeah, I've heard they tend to burn oil. But I am getting strong smells of fuel when I stop, that's why I was wondering if it could be running lean...
Only reason I brought up PCV is because that's something one of the shops told me it could be, chances are it will still be the original as you said.
And I'm not full throttle off cold, it's gone past it's warm idle and about 1/4 warm. But I'm also not going all the way to 9k on it cold either, only to about 7.
Although even once warm it is still blowing white smoke under full.

WHAT

Remind me to never buyyour car if you ever sell up

[Dyln.bxtr]

Yeah, I'm not planning to sell at anytime in the future. So you're fine.

[Jasemas]

Yeah, I've heard they tend to burn oil. But I am getting strong smells of fuel when I stop, that's why I was wondering if it could be running lean...
Only reason I brought up PCV is because that's something one of the shops told me it could be, chances are it will still be the original as you said.
And I'm not full throttle off cold, it's gone past it's warm idle and about 1/4 warm. But I'm also not going all the way to 9k on it cold either, only to about 7.
Although even once warm it is still blowing white smoke under full.

What do you mean '1/4' warm
If you referring to your temperature gauge
That is for coolant not oil /lol

[Dyln.bxtr]

Oh.... That's right. Shit!
Could fuel be related to the smoke?? Because it has a strong smell when ever I stop.

[amant02]

Oh.... That's right. Shit!
Could fuel be related to the smoke?? Because it has a strong smell when ever I stop.

Hard to say with your description. I would take it to the mechs for a proper assessment.

I always let engine warm up 1min to 1:30secs on very cold mornings. For the 1st 10 minutes drive normally shifting 2.5k - 3k. You also want the gear box oil to warm up.

[Jasemas]

So the OP
Redlines into 2nd on cold start
Nek minit g'box rebuild thread on ozhonda

[Dyln.bxtr]

Wait, the coolant and oil will usually hear up at roughly the same rate, due to the heat exchange occurring...
I've taken it to a mechanic and they said they found nothing wrong, took it to a second they said they couldn't even get smoke....
And at not point did I say I redlined it. My redline is at 8,700. Not even close to the 6/7 that I stated.
So far only a few have had anything constructive to say. The rest are just dicks.
I was always told if you ha nothing good to say, don't say anything at all. It's common courtesy.
I'll let it warm up on the way to uni (30 min drive) and see how it is after that.
Otherwise it's a pretty surprising and resilient engine, the previous owner claims he also had white smoke... So. Dunno.

[mocchi]

so moral of the story is




















hehe

[amant02]

Wait, the coolant and oil will usually hear up at roughly the same rate, due to the heat exchange occurring...
I've taken it to a mechanic and they said they found nothing wrong, took it to a second they said they couldn't even get smoke....
And at not point did I say I redlined it. My redline is at 8,700. Not even close to the 6/7 that I stated.
So far only a few have had anything constructive to say. The rest are just dicks.
I was always told if you ha nothing good to say, don't say anything at all. It's common courtesy.
I'll let it warm up on the way to uni (30 min drive) and see how it is after that.
Otherwise it's a pretty surprising and resilient engine, the previous owner claims he also had white smoke... So. Dunno.

Take her to someone who knows Honda's if your worried.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'm not overly worried about it, nor can I afford to have someone look at it.
I'll be testing the PCV valve and look at plumbing this intake sensor in.
Thanks for the help so far.

[RenzokukenJ]

Wat

I didn't see any dick comments in hear

Most asking why you rev so high when cold

[Dyln.bxtr]

Because our cold in Brisbane is still 20C.
And they weren't comments that were constructive in any manner. They were unwanted and came across as rude looking to pick a fight.

[Super-DA9]

Generally the air/fuel mixture is quite rich under acceleration when the engine is cold. That would explain the fuel smell if you're pushing to 6-7k while cold. Also until the engine and exhaust is up to normal temp, it's normal to have white steam out the exhaust. Just caused by condensation.

But the real issue here is that it sounds like you're being way too hard on the engine while it's cold. Seriously, 6-7k is way too high on a cold engine and gearbox. You should really try to keep it below 3.5-4k until it's at full running temp.

[RenzokukenJ]

Because our cold in Brisbane is still 20C.
And they weren't comments that were constructive in any manner. They were unwanted and came across as rude looking to pick a fight.

See the comment below in bold


Generally the air/fuel mixture is quite rich under acceleration when the engine is cold. That would explain the fuel smell if you're pushing to 6-7k while cold. Also until the engine and exhaust is up to normal temp, it's normal to have white steam out the exhaust. Just caused by condensation.

But the real issue here is that it sounds like you're being way too hard on the engine while it's cold. Seriously, 6-7k is way too high on a cold engine and gearbox. You should really try to keep it below 3.5-4k until it's at full running temp.

Hehe

[Dyln.bxtr]

Renzo from what I can tell, you're a serial troll. Please stay off any of my posts.

Super-da9, thanks for the help.
That's what nice really come to find out, the cooler temps with condensation and some rich fuel is the issues. She's not smoking while idling or at any of the low rpms though, so hopefully I can keep it that way.
But, I'm not often pushing it that far cold either. It was just an example of when it would happen. Usually I won't get anywhere near vtec even during normal everyday driving. But after these posts I've eased off the old girl. Give her a rest and some chance to heat up.

A rebuild will be in the future, I've planned a stroker and will be getting into that once I have some funds.

[cbauto]

do k swap

problem solvered

[Dyln.bxtr]

If only I could afford one....

[mocchi]

wtb: dick

[RenzokukenJ]

Renzo from what I can tell, you're a serial troll. Please stay off any of my posts.

How am I a serious troll?

I was basically trying to point you in the direction of your problem, however superman-da9 posted what was needed before I did, hence me outlining what I was trying to advise

That's not being a dick, troll or rude, that's simply closing off a comment politely. It's not anyone else's fault that you are acting like a dick, possibly a troll, and rude.


wtb: dick

Mine fs pls pm

[mocchi]

wtb: dick


If only I could afford one....

lmao

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customavatars/avatar37219_16.gif

[Dyln.bxtr]

To those who are constructive and helping, i am polite. The others I have no time for.
Yours came across as rude, hence the backlash. Looking through some of the posts that you have made on other threads, I have made a sound conclusion.
Mocchi is in no way helpful either.

[Dyln.bxtr]

If you were trying to help though, I apologise.
Sometimes it's difficult to distinguish attitudes over the internet.

[cbauto]

To those who are constructive and helping, i am polite. The others I have no time for.
Yours came across as rude, hence the backlash. Looking through some of the posts that you have made on other threads, I have made a sound conclusion.
Mocchi is in no way helpful either.

Pre spam mocchi was helpful

Now only kunt and sniff panties

[RenzokukenJ]

To those who are constructive and helping, i am polite. The others I have no time for.
Yours came across as rude, hence the backlash. Looking through some of the posts that you have made on other threads, I have made a sound conclusion.
Mocchi is in no way helpful either.


If you were trying to help though, I apologise.
Sometimes it's difficult to distinguish attitudes over the internet.

No need to judge a user by their previous posts.

[carayan]

Renzo from what I can tell, you're a serial troll. Please stay off any of my posts.

Super-da9, thanks for the help.
That's what nice really come to find out, the cooler temps with condensation and some rich fuel is the issues. She's not smoking while idling or at any of the low rpms though, so hopefully I can keep it that way.
But, I'm not often pushing it that far cold either. It was just an example of when it would happen. Usually I won't get anywhere near vtec even during normal everyday driving. But after these posts I've eased off the old girl. Give her a rest and some chance to heat up.

A rebuild will be in the future, I've planned a stroker and will be getting into that once I have some funds.


do k swap

problem solvered


If only I could afford one....

man wat

[mocchi]

k series lazy motor m8
dont waste your money

[cbauto]

k series lazy motor m8
dont waste your money
whats your source of information

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customavatars/avatar11984_27.gif

[eLtrix]

+1 for mocchi being kunt these days. Always threatening me and shit.

[RenzokukenJ]

+1 for mocchi being kunt these days. Always threatening me and shit.

If you are jdm girl, just give panties he will leave you alone

[Dyln.bxtr]

Who said the stroke will be in near future. Man, do I have a lot of other shit to buy before the car can handle any sort of power like that haha

[eLtrix]

If you are jdm girl, just give panties he will leave you alone


What do I do when I am not wearing any pantsu?

[cbauto]

Who said the stroke will be in near future. Man, do I have a lot of other shit to buy before the car can handle any sort of power like that hehe
fixed

[RenzokukenJ]

Who said the stroke will be in near future. Man, do I have a lot of other shit to buy before the car can handle any sort of power like that haha

What would you even want to stroke it to? Is there any point stroking a b18?

B20 option is there, or h22

[carayan]

Are you mates with a bloke called billy?

[Dyln.bxtr]

Because standard my b18 is making more power than a b20 and not much less than the h series.
The design of my b18c7 coupled with a stroke out to between 2.2-2.4 it should be able to compete if not outperform it and still be a pretty strong motor.
There is also the factor of being one of the very few with a stroker.

Guys over in the states have been killing it with stroking and been making some pretty out there performance gains N/A.

[Dyln.bxtr]

As in silly billy??

[Dyln.bxtr]

Are you mates with a bloke called billy?

As in silly billy ??




I don't know how to delete my previous post....

[Dyln.bxtr]

What do I do when I am not wearing any pantsu?

With that kind of talking you could find yourself getting some pretty unwanted pm's....

[cbauto]

farkkk

WTB: B24C7

[RenzokukenJ]

What do I do when I am not wearing any pantsu?

Visit jdm panty vending machine


Because standard my b18 is making more power than a b20 and not much less than the h series.
The design of my b18c7 coupled with a stroke out to between 2.2-2.4 it should be able to compete if not outperform it and still be a pretty strong motor.
There is also the factor of being one of the very few with a stroker.

Guys over in the states have been killing it with stroking and been making some pretty out there performance gains N/A.

In that case why not go for a h22, stroke to 2.4l and be safe

Or just go kswap for that sort of money

[cbauto]

Or just go kswap for that sort of money
some people b series 4 lyfe m7

[Dyln.bxtr]

Kswap is going to be a hectic more money.... Not much. But more, plus everyone is doing k swaps.
If I could though, an h2b would be pretty tank. But even they're starting to get common :/
There's probably a reason why no body does stroking though :p haha
But that's it, b series 4 life haha
Plus it's an ek, I want something über different.

[Jasemas]

So you'll go to a B24?
Say bye bye to that 8000+red line

[u mad?]

diesel power band

red line at 4.4k rpm

[mocchi]

shut ur whore mouth m8
b series 4 lyfe
honda best engineering the power of dreams

[amant02]

Hey Dyln,

Dont mind these cheeky fuks. They will get better as time goes on. Most of em know their shit so they only giving you shit cos that reason.

As DA9 said, its probs condensation. Car does run rich when its cold.

You seem new to the scene. Have a read of Honda Tech, Civic Club, OzHonda, JDMST for more information.

Everything you have mentioned have been discussed on either of these sites, you will be able to see advantages or disadvantages of mods.

[cbauto]

Hey Dyln,

Dont mind these cheeky fuks. They will get better as time goes on. Most of em know their shit so they only giving you shit cos that reason.

As DA9 said, its probs condensation. Car does run rich when its cold.

You seem new to the scene. Have a read of Honda Tech, Civic Club, OzHonda, JDMST for more information.

Everything you have mentioned have been discussed on either of these sites, you will be able to see advantages or disadvantages of mods.
hehe

hehe

[Super-DA9]

Most of em know their shit so they only giving you shit cos that reason.

Yeah m8 we know our shit

Hehe

[RenzokukenJ]

diesel power band

red line at 4.4k rpm

Maximum talk at 4k

Weektek on at 4.1k
Weektek off at 4.3k


Most of em know their shit so they only giving you shit cos that reason.

Oooooo


Yeah m8 we know our shit

Hehe

Hehe

[mocchi]

new to the scene.













http://btr.michaelkwan.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/toosoonjunior.jpg

[Vvvtec]

Www.k20a.org

Only site you need




Hehe

[amant02]

Www.k20a.org

Only site you need




Hehe

My bible, not a day goes past I don't read that site.

[RenzokukenJ]

My bible, not a day goes past I don't read that site.

Dun u lie m8

U not read today

[mocchi]

fuking liar

negged

[Super-DA9]

We don't take kindly to fibbers around 'ere

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customavatars/avatar11984_27.gif

[Dyln.bxtr]

Nah, I've been around the scene for a little while. Just new to the stroking and forced induction side.
Reading through last night an found some guys over the states doing a 2.7L b series.... Holy Lordy!

Thanks for the help guys. I'll start on my build thread shortly.

[cbauto]

Nah, I've been around the scene for a little while. Just new to the stroking and forced induction side.
Reading through last night an found some guys over the states doing a 2.7L b series.... Holy Lordy!

Thanks for the help guys. I'll start on my build thread shortly.
link pls

[bennjamin]

Abit of Google and math gives me a maximum of around 2.0l for the b18.
I could be wrong but where are you finding another 175cc displacement per cylinder ?

[RenzokukenJ]

Nah, I've been around the scene for a little while. Just new to the stroking and forced induction side.
Reading through last night an found some guys over the states doing a 2.7L b series.... Holy Lordy!

Thanks for the help guys. I'll start on my build thread shortly.

Lol bullshit

[Dyln.bxtr]

I do not understand the maths, I'm just going by what I've read and been told.

But apparently this is the link.
http://4piston.com/crankshafts/crankshaftsB.html

[RenzokukenJ]

I do not understand the maths, I'm just going by what I've read and been told.

But apparently this is the link.
http://4piston.com/crankshafts/crankshaftsB.html

The biggest crank size there you will only get around 2.3-2.4l

Not 2.7

[Dyln.bxtr]

That's still a fair bit.
I thought 2.7 sounded a bit odd... 0.o

And, is there any reason that they are cheaper than the Crowe ones?? Considering it's an extra .3-.4 of a L

[RenzokukenJ]

That's still a fair bit.
I thought 2.7 sounded a bit odd... 0.o

And, is there any reason that they are cheaper than the Crowe ones?? Considering it's an extra .3-.4 of a L

..... Wat

Links to where you saw 2.7 b series

[Dyln.bxtr]

Okay, so it turns out it is burning oil in vtec (apparently common), which means I need to top up my oil now. Yay!
I was running penrite 5w40, but after checking their website they recommend a 10w50. Which would be better? Or what do you guys use and how much oil do you burn??

[curtis265]

if you've only realised you're burning oil, have you been starving your engine this whole time?

[Dyln.bxtr]

No no, I thought it was leaking from a rear main seal. I've been topping it up regularly, just checked the penrite website and they recommend a higher viscous than what I've been using. Only reason I asked was due to this.
Could a lower viscous burn more than higher?? Or should I go a semi synth instead of full??

[Dyln.bxtr]

Or should I just go back to using honda oil??

[RenzokukenJ]

Inb4stnrd reply "use Woolworths brand oil because they sponsor me now, penrite shit oil"

[Vvvtec]

Or should I just go back to using honda oil??

Nah dont do that. Try a 10-40w or 50.

I use nulon fully synthetic 10-40w in my kswap and I give it a pretty hard time, holds up well.

[carayan]

lol



lol

[Dyln.bxtr]

Nah dont do that. Try a 10-40w or 50.

I use nulon fully synthetic 10-40w in my kswap and I give it a pretty hard time, holds up well.

Thanks mate, do you notice any burning when in vtec or noticeable oil drop??

[Vvvtec]

Thanks mate, do you notice any burning when in vtec or noticeable oil drop??

Negative on both

[Dyln.bxtr]

Awesome!!
Guess today is time for some oil change haha

[Vvvtec]

Shop around. Repco/autobarn/supercheap all sell it. Its always on speshy at one of them

[EKVTIR-T]

Intelligent molecules dramatically reduces engine wear at start up

[u mad?]

is she sounding great now alex?

[EK1 Civic]

My b18c7 burnt 1.7l of oil because of a bad pcv valve. Replaced it for $28 and haven't burnt a drop since

[Dyln.bxtr]

Anyway of testing the PCV valve??

[Super-DA9]

Anyway of testing the PCV valve??

They're so cheap it's better to just replace it. It's in an easy place to access on your B18C7.

[Dyln.bxtr]

Just get a new one from honda??

[Super-DA9]

Just get a new one from honda??

Wherever man, go to honda or look it up online

[EK1 Civic]

Got mine from repco, just change the thing it costs fk all

[Dyln.bxtr]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/13/5ury4uvu.jpg

Is this it here??

[mocchi]

yeam8

[cbauto]

thank

[Dyln.bxtr]

Thanks guys. It seems that the grommet is loose and not sealing 100%. It's still clicking, but I'll try replacing and see how we go from there.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I've replaced the PCV valve and it seems to still be smoking, but again. Only during vtec.
I'll try doing a compression test across the cylinders and see what I come up with.

[Super-DA9]

I've replaced the PCV valve and it seems to still be smoking, but again. Only during vtec.
I'll try doing a compression test across the cylinders and see what I come up with.

If the compression test comes up good then your valve guides and seals are most likely worn out. Happens to all B series (and most engines in general) it's just a matter of when. Fixing involves removing the head and taking it to a machine shop/engine builder. Alternatively, use a thicker engine oil and it should reduce the smoke.

[cbauto]

If the compression test comes up good then your valve guides and seals are most likely worn out. Happens to all B series (and most engines in general) it's just a matter of when. Fixing involves removing the head and taking it to a machine shop/engine builder. Alternatively, use a thicker engine oil and it should reduce the smoke.

Use best in market

[Dyln.bxtr]

Yeah, I've increased the oil to 15w50 and not willing to go much higher.

[Super-DA9]

Yeah, I've increased the oil to 15w50 and not willing to go much higher.

Well then you know what the solution is.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I have no idea what the solution is.
The 10w40 was burning a shit ton, the 15w50 is burning oil still.
The PCV valve has been replaced.
Compression I still haven't done, but will find out whether it is a bad seal when done.

[curtis265]

sounds like you need a bit of work done..

[Super-DA9]

I have no idea what the solution is.
The 10w40 was burning a shit ton, the 15w50 is burning oil still.
The PCV valve has been replaced.
Compression I still haven't done, but will find out whether it is a bad seal when done.

Read this again..


If the compression test comes up good then your valve guides and seals are most likely worn out. Happens to all B series (and most engines in general) it's just a matter of when. Fixing involves removing the head and taking it to a machine shop/engine builder. Alternatively, use a thicker engine oil and it should reduce the smoke.

Dyln pls

[Dyln.bxtr]

Oh... I thought you were responding to the oil change... My bad.

[amant02]

Mate, I wouldn't even worry with a compression test. Do a leak down test if you want to know for sure.

If you really worried. Take the block out and send her to machine shop ~$500 (depending on how far you wanna go whats really broken) add ~1k if you cannot remove and disassemble yourself.

When you get the motor back your vtec will go BWAHHHHHHHHH!

Best time to add cams or b20 if you ask me. I'd spend that extra 2k on a better valve train and rev to 9k on sweet cams. Add that extra offt to your BWAHHHHHHH!

[Super-DA9]

Mate, I wouldn't even worry with a compression test. Do a leak down test if you want to know for sure.

If you really worried. Take the block out and send her to machine shop ~$500 (depending on how far you wanna go whats really broken) add ~1k if you cannot remove and disassemble yourself.

When you get the motor back your vtec will go BWAHHHHHHHHH!

Best time to add cams or b20 if you ask me. I'd spend that extra 2k on a better valve train and rev to 9k on sweet cams. Add that extra offt to your BWAHHHHHHH!

Fair call. But just FYI if he was to take this advice and just go straight to rebuilding the block, but it turns out to be seals in the head that was causing the oil burn then he is back to square one again. Burning loads of oil and smoking.

The information we've been given seems to point toward top end problems. He says the burning/smoke happens at high RPM (vtec) which is when the engine creates significant enough vacuum to pull oil through the valve guides/seals if they are worn enough. It's extremely common on old B series.

I've had piston rings that weren't sealing properly before, it smokes a LOT and not just under high vacuum.

A compression test or a leakdown test will both give you an idea of how well the piston rings are sealing. Only one of them is more available and does not require an air compressor to perform. If we were testing for bent valves, that would be a different story.

So in theory (and in my experience building one of these), if a compression test or leakdown test yields acceptable results/figures then it can really only be one thing considering the PCV valve has been removed from the equation.

[Dyln.bxtr]

The compression test is showing an even compression across each of the pistons. Due to the tester I was using (rubber wedge to seal) which is designed for old Holden v8's (old mans 308 and my 253) with far lower compression, I couldn't get a solid answer. But the tests were within 50kpa of each other.
Is there any definitive way of testing leaking seals and guides? Or would I be best to just replace them rather than go through the hassle of testing??

On a lighter note though, The nutter has been getting a few touches of cosmetics.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/epa9aty2.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/ja4u5edy.jpg

[Super-DA9]

Just buy a $30 Stanley comp tester from Supercheap auto and use that. Comes with the right fitting for your engine.

If the compression figures aren't uneven or really low then you can place your bets on the valve guides and seals.

[Dyln.bxtr]

Sweet. Thanks mate.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I've noticed today that my oil pump has a busted mounting point, and the sump gasket appears to be leaking. While I'm replacing the gasket I want to replace the pump too. Is there anything that you guys would recommend. I've seen some "hi-flow" pumps around, is there really anything to be gained? Even if the car were tracked??

[Super-DA9]

I'm not sure what you mean by a "busted mounting point".

The oil pump bolts flush to the front side of the block. Unless you mean it's leaking somewhere?

I have never seen or heard of a "high flow oil pump" for B series but I have seen some better gears for the OEM pump.

Don't bother with modding the oil pump, honestly. The stock ITR pump creates more than enough oil pressure for street/track/anywhere unless you're trying to build an 11,000RPM engine lol.

Best thing to do would be to replace the pump with a brand new one and also do a timing belt job while you're at it, considering the belt has to come off to replace the pump anyway..

[cbauto]

unless you're trying to build an 11,000RPM engine lol...

Hahhahanahahahahahahahah

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'll try taking a picture for it. By front side do you mean under the cam gears??
Where the bolt goes through, the casing has cracked and fractured.

[amant02]

From the sounds of things, dude you have 101 problems that the interwebs cant fix.

Stop reading things on the net. Trial and error will cost you.

Take her to a proper shop and tell them whats happening and to have a sticky beak.

Before its too late. Get ready to spend ~1k on a major service from the sounds of things.

I just have a good feeling, your playing "Catch up services" due to previous owners abuse and lack of caring.

You have a car that's used. Sure you love her, but how far are you willing to go?

Shes already been trashed, use her, have your fun and move on.

Not too mention, your reving to 9k on cold start.

[Vvvtec]

From the sounds of things, dude you have 101 problems that the interwebs cant fix.

Stop reading things on the net. Trial and error will cost you.

Take her to a proper shop and tell them whats happening and to have a sticky beak.

Before its too late. Get ready to spend ~1k on a major service from the sounds of things.

I just have a good feeling, your playing "Catch up services" due to previous owners abuse and lack of caring.

You have a car that's used. Sure you love her, but how far are you willing to go?

Shes already been trashed, use her, have your fun and move on.

Not too mention, your reving to 9k on cold start.

Holy fuk you actuallt made a post that wasnt total bullshit

[amant02]

Holy fuk you actuallt made a post that wasnt total bullshit

1st post when Im not high. Chopping up 8 tickets to conney land as i Type.

[Vvvtec]

Hahahaha

[cbauto]

Nice1

[Dyln.bxtr]

If I plan to go turbo with it, I would rather have an engine that is 100% and reliable. Even if that means doing a full rebuild, bore and hone.
If I don't fix it, a future owner will be left with the issue, or the engine will just be scrapped, and I personally don't want to see another honda off the road anymore than you do, especially if it occurs while I'm driving it.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'll do some more research and see what there is that I can find out. Worse comes to worse, I'll replace the guide seals and work from there.

[amant02]

I'll do some more research and see what there is that I can find out. Worse comes to worse, I'll replace the guide seals and work from there.

Again mate, trial and error is gonna hurt ur wallet. Do it once, do it right.

Stop reading all the bullsh#t on the net. Cos there are people like me who will steer you in the wrong direction just for kicks. (there are people much worse then me on this forum)

[Dyln.bxtr]

I'm gonna send it to a shop while I'm up north qld. Get him to have a look over it all and give it a good inspection. Pick up anything that needs repairs and sort out the smoking.
I am still tempted to rebuild the engine though, mainly for reliability and to remove any gremlins that the horrid previous owners left.

[Jasemas]

I'm gonna send it to a shop while I'm up north qld. Get him to have a look over it all and give it a good inspection. Pick up anything that needs repairs and sort out the smoking.
I am still tempted to rebuild the engine though, mainly for reliability and to remove any gremlins that the horrid previous owners left.

I hate playing catch up servicing
It seems as though when you try to fix the car, something else is breaks, its a freakin domino affect i tell ya
I guess its what happens when you have a 20 year old car that hasn't been serviced regulrly

[Dyln.bxtr]

I hate playing catch up servicing
It seems as though when you try to fix the car, something else is breaks, its a freakin domino affect i tell ya
I guess its what happens when you have a 20 year old car that hasn't been serviced regulrly

And abused for all it's life.

That's what has been happening. It's a never ending chain reaction. Once you're done you pretty much have a new car again.

I don't know how someone can just treat something so awfully, when it has cost so much to purchase. It's like "oh yeah, it's only 10g, it's like pocket money".

[curtis265]

And abused for all it's life.

That's what has been happening. It's a never ending chain reaction. Once you're done you pretty much have a new car again.

I don't know how someone can just treat something so awfully, when it has cost so much to purchase. It's like "oh yeah, it's only 10g, it's like pocket money".

I would buy an old car and run it into the ground

What's the harm in that

Cheaper than fixing it up

[Dyln.bxtr]

Because I can't exactly say a type r is a cheap car.... Haha

[Super-DA9]

Something I believe a lot of people need to come to terms with is that cars are machines, machines are comprised of parts, parts always reach a breaking point.

In short, machines break and that is just a characteristic you need to accept. It's not breaking because you have bad luck, and it probably is not because the previous owner forgot to do a few oil changes.. it's an old car with old parts.

Even if you rebuild the whole engine that does not by any means guarantee that nothing will break.

It's part of owning a car, things break, you fix them when they do.

[Dyln.bxtr]

I understand that things break. But my 98 d series had absolute no issues at all. No smoke, no knocking. Ran perfect.
Compared to the 2000 type r engine, which may I add is a far more expensive item, has had nothing but issues.
With proper maintenance and care, a machine will last a life time. Parts will give out over time, but the issue I have had is that the previous owners haven't cared to change them as they have broken. Just ignored it with the mentality of, it's not worth fixing, which is why we end up in this situation.
A 1970 Holden v8 built by Australia, has outlasted my japenese built 2000 4 cylinder. Which, by all means, should definitely be the other way around.

[Super-DA9]

Just because a B18CR is more expensive than a D series doesn't make it more reliable. You're forgetting that it's much more highly strained than a low compression economy engine.

Also forgetting to factor in that the B18CR probably gets driven a lot harder (by you and the previous owner) than the economy based D series.

As I already told you, B series are notorious for worn valve guides with age. It is not surprising that it's smoking with age.

Take it from a guy who has actually rebuilt his B18 twice (so you know I'm not some forum troll spouting shit), rebuilding does not change the fact that regardless of how often you change the oil etc stuff is going to break. If you bolt on a turbo to the engine it will break things even more often.

If you want to rebuild, go ahead, it's a fun thing to do. If you want a turbo, go ahead. But just don't expect the problems to come to a halt because of it.

On a side note I have two questions simply out of curiousity:

1 - Why did you buy the engine if you know it's been very poorly maintained?
2 - What parts were "left broken" by the previous owner of the engine?

[TbM]

I understand that things break. But my 98 d series had absolute no issues at all. No smoke, no knocking. Ran perfect.
Compared to the 2000 type r engine, which may I add is a far more expensive item, has had nothing but issues.
With proper maintenance and care, a machine will last a life time. Parts will give out over time, but the issue I have had is that the previous owners haven't cared to change them as they have broken. Just ignored it with the mentality of, it's not worth fixing, which is why we end up in this situation.
A 1970 Holden v8 built by Australia, has outlasted my japenese built 2000 4 cylinder. Which, by all means, should definitely be the other way around.
http://m.quickmeme.com/img/8d/8db68ae77354d887fc4636fffe0454ade5c5316d4f7e1dec92 4b8971567842d4.jpg

[mocchi]

9000rpm cold shifts

nuff said

[Dyln.bxtr]

So, unfortunately due to finances I haven't had a chance to address this issue yet. I am planning to replace the valve stem seals, should I just do the guides at the same time in case??

[cbauto]

K20a.