Urgent help needed, b18 not starting

[carayan]

Now the title is a bit vague so I'll explain

First night I finished swap, went to start, battery had died, so left it.

Swapped a battery in from a running car and it cranked and started great.

Went and bought a new battery and it started, but then hit some gnarly idle issues, which turned out to be a dirty fitv which I pulled out and cleaned.

Put it back together and the motor won't start at all now, no crank nothing and now I'm getting this very audible rapid clicking noise from under the passenger side of the dash. On first turn of key starter wants to go but can't and then it's just dead after that.

So far I've checked all grounds, used another battery, checked alt wiring, next on list is starter I'll be checking that after posting this.

Frustrating me so much!

[ECU-MAN]

Get a test light and connected it to the Starter Solenoid wire, when you crank the engine the light should come on. If it does not then you either have an issue with the ignition switch or immobiliser control unit. Also ensure the green key is not flashing. What car do you have ?


If the test lamp does come on and all grounds are fine then your starter solenoid or motor brushed are rooted, assuming you have connected the wire from the starter motor to the battery firmly.


Another test if your brave, get long nose pliers, disconnect the wire going to the starter solenoid (small gauge wire). Ensure the handbrake is on and car in neutral, using the long nose pliers bridge the starter solenoid terminal to the big fat wire connector going to the battery. The engine should crank. If it does then your starter is fine.

[carayan]

99 civic, using obd1 p72, no green key light.

I have a test light somewhere and I'll check if it's getting power.

I found the clicking, it's the main relay, could that have a part to play?

[ECU-MAN]

no, the main relay has no impact on the starter.


If the main relay is clicking it is possible you either have a wiring issue, Ground issue or power issue.


Are your battery terminals clean and tight ?


is the white wire from the alternator (loom) going to the correct location in the under hoof fuse box, same with the white wire from the battery terminal to under hood fuse box.

[carayan]

alright, well main relay has stopped playing its song of rapid clicking, and now follows the normal 3 clicks.

battery terminals are clean and tight.

in terms of under hood fuse box i have it

starter -> battery -> fuse box (top slot)
alternator -> fuse box (bottom slot)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5457/9373109121_293f0caf59_b.jpg

[ECU-MAN]

Battery goes to the top slot as in closes to the firewall,


Is your problem the engine still wont crank ?


Did you do the test light test on the starter ?

[carayan]

Battery goes to the top slot as in closes to the firewall,


Is your problem the engine still wont crank ?


Did you do the test light test on the starter ?
Yep all tested, pushed solenoid wire in and hey presto it started lol

Turned off and started again, went for a little drive. Motor died when I came to a complete stop.

Waited a bit and just recently went to start it again, it started, choked and then died, now no start again.

[ECU-MAN]

make sure you have not got the TPS and MAP sensor connections mixed up, this should not effect the operation of the starter motor thou

[carayan]

make sure you have not got the TPS and MAP sensor connections mixed up, this should not effect the operation of the starter motor thou

tps and map are fine. ripped out a multi and tested the solenoid, it was getting 12v, but no crank.
while cranking hit it with a hammer and it cranked so i guess you were right in assuming it was rooted internally, hence the sketchy starts and stuff.


You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to ECU-MAN again.

[connorling]

u could have taken the starter out and see if the gear push out when u put power thru , simulate the cranking situation.

[carayan]

yeah when i pull it off i will check if the rod engages or not.