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caljones
08-08-2014, 09:24 AM
Hey everyone.

Recently bought a VTI-R integra for really cheap.
I found the thermostat was stuck open and was taking ages to heat up or not even heat up at all.

I bought a supercheap auto (triton) thermostat and chucked it in. Filled up with 70% coolant and the rest tap water (untill i buy more coolant this week)

After the first drive, i noticed the overflow was bubbling so i assumed i didnt bleed the system properly.

After bleeding it again, it is still bubbling (only when i turn the engine off after a long drive)

The temp never goes above half way, so im hoping it isnt the head gasket.

Anyone got any idea what it might be?

I tried using an old radiator cap i had from a previous car (which i believe was working fine) but didnt make a difference.

I also noticed when i stopped the car and it was bubbling, the hoses were not pressurised.

Thanks.

curtis265
08-08-2014, 09:44 AM
What was your method for bleeding it?

caljones
08-08-2014, 11:47 AM
Leave cap off for 10 mins and idle.
at the end I opened the bleed screw and waited till a constant stream of coolant was coming out, shut it then put the cap on

ECU-MAN
08-08-2014, 03:39 PM
your ment to open the bleed screw while filling it as well.


I know the Honda thermostats are pricy, but they tend to last forever and are reliable., even fail in the open position as well. Did you install your thermostat upside down ?

caljones
08-08-2014, 05:08 PM
right. ill try removing all coolant and starting again. By upside down do you mean putting the little one way valve the wrong way up? fairly sure i checked it against the helms manual. Is it worth checking that?

amant02
08-08-2014, 05:47 PM
Or heater on, full blast max settings?

Its not 10 minutes either... you gots to wait till the radiator fans start working.

bennjamin
08-08-2014, 05:57 PM
Or heater on, full blast max settings?

Its not 10 minutes either... you gots to wait till the radiator fans start working.


yup if from a dead cold engine it can be up to 15-20mins to warm up .....with the coolant not under pressure.

OP try again. Slide heater to HOT. (this lets the coolant properly flow thru to the heater core and isplace air / bad fluid / crud) cap off or cracked open slightly - and idle until warm. The thermo should open with the fan/s turning on - top up the fluid as the level drops. Let the fan turn on twice then top up to the neck of the radiator , then clamp the cap and top up the reservoir. Should be all good.

caljones
08-08-2014, 11:01 PM
the temp didnt move from under half way even for 20+ mins, and the fans didnt come on.

Correct me if im wrong, but with the radiator cap on, the system should be sealed?

With my mouth I can blow into the overflow tube and it goes inside the cooling system. Or i can squeeze the top hose and air comes through the overflow tube (even when cold).

IE it isnt storing pressure;but it will store pressure if i blow into the tubing.

To me the sealing surface in the radiator (that seals against the cap) looks f**ked. Is that even a possibility?

Jasemas
08-08-2014, 11:23 PM
Maybe get a new cap?
Also if the fans have not come in
It has not bled properly
Get ready for a mess - rev the car to 2.5k rpm to get it up to temp quicker

caljones
08-08-2014, 11:36 PM
tried two different caps, both seem perfectly fine. ill take a pic of the filler neck tomorrow and see what you think.
Because i blew into the overflow of a mates EK and it was sealed off, seems to me that it the problem

amant02
09-08-2014, 12:03 AM
I think all you need to do is jack the car up.

caljones
09-08-2014, 12:21 AM
I think all you need to do is jack the car up.
was jacked up both times

DC:51:VE
09-08-2014, 12:40 AM
You have to get the fans running because until your new thermostat opens completely you will not have bled your system Properly to my knowledge.

caljones
09-08-2014, 01:55 PM
tried a brand new cap from work today, still not holding pressure in.

ill be picking up a working radiator tonight.

I really believe its the radiator not sealing against the cap- it looks dodgy in there and given it isnt holding pressure back from the overflow, no pressure is being held within the system. Thus the water isnt under pressure, and has a lower boiling point.

This makes sense why my temp gauge isnt showing anything abnormal

I flushed coolant and changed thermostats with my last civic+b18c with no problem afterwards with respect to bleeding so i dont think it is caused by air stuck in the system.

caljones
11-08-2014, 05:27 PM
thanks for the help everyone,

It was from the radiator not sealing against the cap. Picked up a second hand one and chucked it in and has fixed the problem.