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View Full Version : D16Y1 No Vtec engage



Statik91
17-02-2015, 09:39 AM
Hi all, I'm new to the honda type engines however i have noticed VTEC doesnt engage at all. just wondering what checks i can do and what sensors notify the ECU to engage VTEC.

I tried searching but couldn't find anything.

RenzokukenJ
17-02-2015, 12:03 PM
Are you sure you have vtec in the first place?
Check oil first off, make sure you have enough

grifty
17-02-2015, 03:50 PM
are you sure it isnt engaging? hook up a light to the solenoid and take it for a spin, the D16Y1 is very quiet

Statik91
17-02-2015, 06:13 PM
Yeah I'm sure it has vtec, I have a cold air intake and I cannot hear it kick in and can't feel it, also doesn't have a change in rpm just seems to rev out like normal.

RenzokukenJ
17-02-2015, 06:22 PM
Could be low on oil, also check your vtec solenoid that it's in ok

ECU-MAN
17-02-2015, 06:23 PM
Do the test light test to start with, this way you know if your ECU is trying to engage VTS


Do you have a P28 ? is it stock ?


Ensure your engine temperature is at optimal temp,
Ensure your VSS is working.
Ensure your oil level is correct

Statik91
17-02-2015, 06:42 PM
There is no power at te solenoid, oil level is correct and its stock with stock tune and ecu, pretty sure it's a p28, engine temp is normal when testing and vss seems to be working correctly. The sump isn't dent d or anything stupid like that as I have heard that it can cause an issue. I used to get code 22 and have replaced the vtec oil pressure switch and now no codes.

Statik91
17-02-2015, 06:48 PM
Solenoid seems to work, it clicks when I add power to it straight from battery

ECU-MAN
17-02-2015, 07:44 PM
confirm the ECU type.


sounds like the ECU does not want to engage VTS..


when you tested how was your test light wired ?


did you go over 30kph ?


did you apply more that half throttle?


how long had the engine been warm ?

grifty
17-02-2015, 08:31 PM
does it have a vtec solenoid pressure switch? If so the switch could be faulty

Statik91
17-02-2015, 09:56 PM
Solenoid oil pressure switch has been replaced with a new OEM one the other week back. I'll confirm the ECU type tomorrow ECU-MAN

Almost thinking about going to a B16A2 swap but finding it hard to source a complete engine and everything needed to fit into a EH VTI

Statik91
18-02-2015, 01:56 PM
Confirm the ECU is a P28 and i had the light wired in parallel to the solenoid. When testing i did go over 30km and definitely more than half throttle was applied. i always warm my car up to operating temp before driving it hard and testing.

ECU-MAN
19-02-2015, 07:49 AM
sounds like the ECU does not want to engage VTS


is the ROM in the ECU stock ?


did you ground the other side of the test lamp for the VTS test ?


any DTC's in the ECU memory ?


You need to test the VSS, TPS, MAP and ECT signal at the ECU connectors.


you need to do voltage tests for ECT, TPS and MAP with a warm engine and frequency for VSS as described in the below links.




http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?68441-DIY-PGMFI-Diagnostics-Code-17-VSS


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?67309-DIY-PGMFI-Diagnostics-Code-7-TPS


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?67308-DIY-PGMFI-Diagnostics-Code-5-MAP


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?67460-DIY-PGMFI-Diagnostics-Code-6-ECT

Vvvtec
20-02-2015, 11:33 AM
Yeah I'm sure it has vtec, I have a cold air intake and I cannot hear it kick in and can't feel it, also doesn't have a change in rpm just seems to rev out like normal.

sounds pretty normal for dseries

Statik91
23-02-2015, 10:37 AM
Okay, now can confirm after testing it all and found out that the new oil pressure sensor for VTEC has failed and snapped off, replaced it and now VTEC works.

Been having a lot of other dramas with my engine since I've had a lot of rain in the city i live in, and minor flooding. The car seems to stall and die out then hard to start, i have to let it sit for about a minute before it will fire again, can sit there and crank it though. idles really low sometimes. Only does this once engine is warmed up. Then other times it runs like a treat.
Ive check voltages and readings from all sensors and they are fine.

Also park/cluster/tail fuse keeps on blowing, no matter what fuse i put in it, fuse is fine until i turn the lights on which makes it impossible to drive at night. Ive checked all bulbs and they are fine, even the cluster bulbs and dash lighting. Also have checked dimmer switch.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Jasemas
23-02-2015, 06:20 PM
Have a check of your grounds

RenzokukenJ
23-02-2015, 08:30 PM
Dizzy cap might have slight corrosion, due to wet weather

Just get a bit of sand paper and lightly sand the tabs on the cap

Mine did it all the time during winter/spring

Statik91
24-02-2015, 09:32 AM
Light issue has been fixed, the girl that owned the car before me forgot about the stereo illumination wire, it was just sitting there and sometimes bumping onto a screw, so that issue has been fixed. I'll try the dizzy tonight,

Statik91
04-03-2015, 02:26 PM
Now can confirm that the ECU was not damaged at all, Tried the dizzy and checking all connections and they seem fine. I'm thinking it might be the ignition barrel as the car stalls as if the alternator and battery have been removed, it only does this for a second and the powers back up fine, headlights and everything even go out, radio looses its memory also. Starting to do my head in, so i have purchased a 92 prelude that has no issues.

Can someone help me or point me to the right direction with my EH9

Grounds have been checked from engine and battery.