Need help to wire B18C alternator with a Haltech!!!!

[39erman]

Ok, so it has 4 terminals:

B = battery +ve
IG = switched +ve
L = light
C = ?.. Goes to factory ECU. Do I just tie this to +ve battery?

[ECU-MAN]

C = ALT C that goes to the ECU, You can probably leave it disconnected.

[39erman]

C = ALT C that goes to the ECU, You can probably leave it disconnected.

Ok, I'll give it a try....

[roy8532]

C should be for control, which senses the loading on the alternator.

[39erman]

Ok, went to the dyno with the "C" wire disconnected. Alternator o/put was at 16 volts, it ****ed in the battery in less than 5 mins!!!! Had to disconnect the the alternator completely to enable to tune it. So, the Haltech P1000 were using apparently can control the alternator, anyone have any ideas about this?

[39erman]

C = ALT C that goes to the ECU, You can probably leave it disconnected.
No way man. Sorry, but you HNFI about this. :p

[EGVTi]

C is for the ELD (Electric Load Detector) and it goes to the underside of the fusebox in the engine bay.

[39erman]

And where does it go if the is no ELD or ECU control?

[EGVTi]

If there is no ELD plug then you just leave it and disable the ELD sensor in the ECU in the Misc page.

[39erman]

If there is no ELD plug then you just leave it and disable the ELD sensor in the ECU in the Misc page.

Which ECU is this? In the Haltech PS1000 there is no page that I can find. This is not the "plug n play" Pro series. We removed all the old wiring harness and installed our own new harness. Its a track car and therefore only requires the minium of wiring to make it operate.

But anyway, we fixed the problem easily enough.

[ECU-MAN]

No way man. Sorry, but you HNFI about this. :p

And why would that be ?

[39erman]

And why would that be ?

By not connecting the ELD &/or ECU control terminal this allowed the regulator to run flat chat @ 18v just above idle. At least one of these two wires must be connected to control the regulator.

Unless of course, you do a simple internal mod to the alternator which I'll post up later once we get thru the current car prep and IPRA NSW next weekend.

[ECU-MAN]

How sure are you about this ?

I have never had an issue in the past leaving ALT C disconnected on JDM Engines (alternators) ALT F is the important one.

The regulator itself governs the output voltage, ALT C governs alternator load and should have no impact on output voltage.

If your alternator ran at 18v then your regulator is not doing its job.

[39erman]

How sure are you about this ?

I have never had an issue in the past leaving ALT C disconnected on JDM Engines (alternators) ALT F is the important one.

The regulator itself governs the output voltage, ALT C governs alternator load and should have no impact on output voltage.

If your alternator ran at 18v then your regulator is not doing its job.

Yeah man, absolutely sure. It's the same alternator that we had we we were using the Apexi FC.

[ECU-MAN]

so how was ALT C and ALT F wired with the Apexi FC ?

[39erman]

so how was ALT C and ALT F wired with the Apexi FC ?

The Apexi FC was using the full factory harness. So ALT C to pin 19 Connector A & ALT F to the ELD in the engine bay fuse box.

So I see why now (hindsight being a wonderful thing) why ECU's such as Apexi, Hondata and 'Plug n Play' are popular. As they retain these factory items when using the original harness. Our problem was that as a track car, we didn't need or warrant all the extra wiring PLUS we install ITB's which we found on the dyno waqs a problem for the Apexi FC. The Quads make little manifold vacuum and the Apexi FC wanted to be tuned by TPS & MAP sensors, not either. So the car was undriveable. So we went the with Haltech PS1000 and installed our own harness. Much tidier and very tune-able. However then the Alternator control thingy raised its ugly head!!!

[39erman]

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n199/3sgem/20150406_083448_zpsue4yxzbc.jpg (http://s112.photobucket.com/user/3sgem/media/20150406_083448_zpsue4yxzbc.jpg.html)

[TbM]

fyi ive run alternators with the alt c disconnected without issue, alt f is the important one iirc. looks like you tied alt f straight to the battery going off your first post when the fsm says its looking for around 5v that decreses on load, im guessing that was your problem not the alt c wire.

[39erman]

fyi ive run alternators with the alt c disconnected without issue, alt f is the important one iirc. looks like you tied alt f straight to the battery going off your first post when the fsm says its looking for around 5v that decreses on load, im guessing that was your problem not the alt c wire.

Ok, so I tried ALT C to +ve = no result.
Then ALT C to Gnd = no result.
Then ALT C with 820 ohm to Gnd = no result.
Then ALT C with 1K ohm to Gnd = no result.
Then using a Voltage Regulator put +5v to ALT C = no result.

Then went looking for another alternator to fit and found an easy option without ELD/ALT C/ALT F being used. :)