Wheel bearings ef9

[rally-spec]

Having a major headache with front wheel bearings on ef9, had them changed by a honda specialist mechanic and a week later there was play in the wheels again, so took it back and had them redone, same thing happened again, so I tried some different (second hand) front hubs, still play between the bearing and the hub.. not the wrong bearing according to the mechanic, they just keep coming loose again. Anyone have any idea's? ?

Also wondering if ef9 hubs are the same as ed6? I was lucky enough to find second hand genuine ef9 ones the first time but if it is the hubs that are worn I can imagine its going to be very difficult/impossible to find more, especially in good condition.. Thanks.

[cbauto]

Use da9 bearings? They're not meant to be same as ed6

[cbauto]

Ef9 running gear similar most to da9

[grifty]

you might be using the wrong driveshaft, did you replace a driveshaft recently?

[kev89]

I just changed the front bearings on my EF9, I used Timken bearings, Ill find out the part number when I'm at work tomorrow. What part number did you use?

[pat88c]

here part number here part number 1

http://www.crxsi.com/jdm/ef9-1101532/Steering-Brake-Suspension-Knuckle1.htm

found off this site worth a ok for any jdm goodies which are out of stock or not available
http://www.crxsi.com/jdm/

[rally-spec]

Thanks for replies guys big help, not sure the part number will ask the mechanic, got a hydraulic press now so will do it myself next time anyway and make sure I use that part number. Pretty sure it wasn't the axles because with the hub off the car you could see the bearing movement was between the hub and bearing, hopefully just the wrong bearings..

[Hondarally]

Are the axle nuts clamping the bearings properly? Measure the length of the spline section (from the inboard shoulder on the drive shaft to the face of the tightened nut) and compare with the thickness of the assembled bearing. The nut should clamp the bearing to prevent the 2 halves of the inner race coming apart (assuming the bearing is same as later styles - EG / EK / DC etc). If the nuts don't clamp the bearing correctly, the two halves of the bearing inner race will separate very quickly. This can be detected as movement between the inner and outer race of the bearing, as the bearing loses its preload.

If the inner race is loose on the hub, then it is the wrong bearing and should have been picked up by the mechanic. The bearing has to be pressed onto the shaft / hub. If it's so loose it's visible, then the bearing would fall onto the hub, and should ring alarm bells immediately.

You might find you need an assortment of mandrels to use on the hydraulic press. It's hard to keep everything lined up and press the bearing in straight unless you have everything properly supported, and good mandrels to push off the correct parts off the bearing (don't rely on the load path going through the rolling elements - you'll brinell the bearings in no time).

[grifty]

I've seen cases of people using wrong driveshafts which caused what looked like a very bad case of a wheel bearing failure but actually it was the outer CV joint not holding the bearing together.

So if this bearing fails again then you need to look at the outer CV joint.

[rally-spec]

That could be a possibility then, the cv's were changed just before I bought the car, but I doubt the axles were changed because I've heard only ef9 axles are anywhere close to the right length? Will suss it out though when I take it all apart

[kennee]

I had play in my dc2r 5 stud conversion on the drivers front
I took the bearing out, removed the bearing race to find out my shaft on the spindle was half worn down and other half was okay, thus making the new bearing walk along the worn half of the of shaft on the spindle

Try to obtain the old hubs that were replaced and tear them down for inspection, at least you can see what is/was wrong with them and post up some pictures so members can offer their expert opinion

[hondapop]

The EF9 should have the same Steering knuckles/brakes(262mm)/bearings/CV's, axles as the CRX EF8. Information on these hubs seems to be non-existent. They use the same bearings and brakes as the DA9 Integra, but are very different otherwise. Honda Aus did not import either the EF8 or 9 and doesn't support them as far as parts (or much interest in getting them) If the mechanic has ordered bearings for an ED Civic, they are a smaller outer diameter, but the inner hole for the shaft is the same for both the EF/ED, DA and EF8/9. The press will be of use in pressing a new inner race onto the hub (with the wheel studs), but you can't get a puller behind it to get the old one off though. It can be done by grinding the bearing away very, very, very carefully, avoiding damage to the bearing spigot and splitting it off with a chisel. Honda only sell the bearing and that hub complete, already pressed on, ready to be pressed into the knuckle as an assembly.

There are also 2 seals needed, 1 that presses in behind the bearing (grease seal) after that hub/bearing assembly is in place, the 2nd is a thin ring type which fits onto the outer CV and acts as a dust/water seal against a metal ring in the knuckle. This ring has to be prised out to press out the bearing and insert the grease seal. It then gets re-inserted.

Here is a picture comparing (from left) DA9, EF8, Ef7/ED9 knuckles, note the steering arm of the EF8 is much longer than either the DA9 or the EF/ED
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac188/tootnkumin/HondaPops%20CRX%20and%20projects%20pics/EF8steeringcomparisons001.jpg (http://s898.photobucket.com/user/tootnkumin/media/HondaPops%20CRX%20and%20projects%20pics/EF8steeringcomparisons001.jpg.html)

This is the top sections of those same knuckles, as an EF9, yours should have the same flattened out area as the EF8's. If yours looks like either of the others, they've been swapped at some time.
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac188/tootnkumin/HondaPops%20CRX%20and%20projects%20pics/EF8steeringcomparisons002.jpg (http://s898.photobucket.com/user/tootnkumin/media/HondaPops%20CRX%20and%20projects%20pics/EF8steeringcomparisons002.jpg.html)

[Hondarally]

Great info, Pop

You can press off the outboard half of the inner race using a bearing splitter like the one shown below and a hydraulic press. That's what I used, as I didn't want to cut up the old bearings (am using them on another project in the workshop)

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27232/image/3/

[hondapop]

Here's a pic of where you'd have to get that splitter in between. Unfortunately the boss the inner race presses against is smaller, but not small enough to get the jaws of a puller behind, don't know if you'll even get that tool in there.
http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac188/tootnkumin/HondaPops%20CRX%20and%20projects%20pics/CRX%20hub%20bearing%20003_zpsrzpnfpfy.jpg (http://s898.photobucket.com/user/tootnkumin/media/HondaPops%20CRX%20and%20projects%20pics/CRX%20hub%20bearing%20003_zpsrzpnfpfy.jpg.html)

[Hondarally]

It's tight, but possible. That's how I did it. The puller has a fairly sharp edge on it, so you can tighten it against the shoulder of the bearing, and with only 1-2mm to grip, it works well (that lip visible in your photo is all you need). I didn't have any trouble when I changed my bearings a few weeks ago. Of course, you want a decent quality puller which has hardened jaws, so they don't deform when you apply pressure.

Edit: Note I didn't separate the bearing by tightening the jaws of the puller. I tightened them against the bearing, then used the hydraulic press to press the hub out of the bearing race, with supports under the puller. Have 2 intact old bearings here to show it's possible (didn't take any photos of the process, sorry)

[hondapop]

That's good to know it can be done.