TICKing sound when warm - Using a USDM ecu

[Dxs]

Ok, I am attempting a manual conversion to a 98 Gen1 Ody with F23a engine. Using a 98 USDM Accord ecu OBD2B.

Car starts fine and idles fine. Does have an engine light though. But when warm something activates and then there is a TICKing sound. I think it is coming from the thing on the firewall (see vid). EGR related? Any ideas?

As said, it idles fine, but on throttle the engine bogs a bit before revving up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTIjxxuaoAM&feature=youtu.be

How do you check OBD2b engine errors too?

cheers

[Jasemas]

Ok, I am attempting a manual conversion to a 98 Gen1 Ody with F23a engine. Using a 98 USDM Accord ecu OBD2B.

Car starts fine and idles fine. Does have an engine light though. But when warm something activates and then there is a TICKing sound. I think it is coming from the thing on the firewall (see vid). EGR related? Any ideas?

As said, it idles fine, but on throttle the engine bogs a bit before revving up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTIjxxuaoAM&feature=youtu.be

How do you check OBD2b engine errors too?

cheers

On hondas of that vintage WITH OBDII you can still use the old paperclip method of getting ODBI codes

[Dxs]

On hondas of that vintage WITH OBDII you can still use the old paperclip method of getting ODBI codes
Yeah I just did.

Seems the codes are: 9 - 20 - 22 - 65
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_Do8T_lAAI&feature=youtu.be

wondering if wiring differs between the odyssey and the accord

[roy8532]

it sounds like your tappers

[Dxs]

For the sake of adding more info to the thread...

i checked out the Odyssey's Auto PEA-Q50 ecu, vs the USDM Accord PAA-L11 Manual ecu.

There is a chip missing in the Auto ecu compared to the Manual.. from my late night eyes it seems to be 10 pin. and connects to PIN 3 and 4 of the ecu plug.

According to online pin outs of obd2b:
PIN 3: 2WBS - EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve
PIN 4:VSV - EVAP Control Canister Vent Shut Valve


So maybe this extra chip in the Manual ecu is ****en with the thing connected to the charc canister and making it run incorrectly. However, it doesnt seem that there are wires to 3 and 4 on the odyssey's loom.


The covers of the PAA-L11 ecu also have water marks on them, makes me wonder the condition of the ecu.
Seem to be getting additional code of error 91.

[Dxs]

ok (again for my ref), so the RA3 gen1 ody came with F23A7 engine.

The 6th? gen accord, in the US came with 3 F23 varients (or so the internet says):
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/accord/101632-f23-ulev.html

F23A1 -- standard Vtec sohc (EX/LX)
F23A4 -- ULEV Vtec
F23A5 -- non -Vtec 135hp DX sedan engine (some VP models too)


Given the PAA-L11 accord ECU I have attempted to use makes a ticking sound for the evap stuff and has an extra chip - I am now presuming that the ECU is incorrectly matched.

From ebay sales I see that there is PAA-L00, PAA-L11 and PAA-L10 ecu's.
One ebay listing says the L00 is of a special emissions F23a for california:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-02-Honda-Accord-ECU-37820-PAA-L00-Engine-Computer-Module-5-Spd-ECM-2-3-VTEC-/251413978778

For your consideration: a ECU removed from a 2001 Honda Accord with 2.3l VTEC and a manual transmission
This will work in 2000, 2001, and 2002 Honda Accords. It is the California emissions version and difficult to find.


I got an ebay seller to send a pic of the L10 ecu and it also has the chip in it that the auto RA3 ecu does not.


from wiki on f23a:



EX and LX engines qualify as California LEV (Low-Emission Vehicles)
EX with automatic transmission qualifies as ULEV (Ultra-Low Emission Vehicle) in California
Stratified-charge VTEC
Electronically controlled EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
ULEV engine uses 32-bit ECU with individual cylinder air-fuel ratio control, lean air-fuel ratio during fast idle, high-efficiency catalyst and low heat-mass exhaust system




So yeah..

[Dxs]

Just thought I would update this thread as a reference for myself and anyone else who may read it in the future.

AUDM RA3 - has a black top F23A7 with a single o2 sensor.

USDM 6th gen accord F23a1 (and other codes) have a silver top (i think like AUDM) and twin o2 sensors - I also believe the evap system is different, well according to this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/00-f23a1-f23a-jdm-swap-pics-2573079/

Looking at the PEA-Q50? odyssey auto ecu and comparing it to the USDM PAA-L11 - it seems the USDM has an extra chip that goes to wires for evap.
I also had pictures sent to me of a USDM PAA-L10 (6th gen accord) ecu and it also has that additional chip. The other code I am aware of is the PAA-L00 but I understand that this is for the 'california' emissions spec accord, which has more sophisticate emissions setup?


From what I have read the JDM F23a has a single o2 sensor, black valve cover and a different evap system.


So I am guessing using the USDM ecu may be the issue because the USDM engine has different evap? and twin o2.
So that MAY explain SOME of the errors -
question is, is there such thing as a car with a 'JDM' F23a that comes in manual from factory - cause that ECU sounds as though it would be more appropriate (maybe NZ or EURO market or something might have such a car)[from investigating, one code i am aware of is: "PAJ-N00 it is from a NZ market CF8 chassis Accord 1999 running a F23A1 engine" - sounds same as USDM though :/].

[Dxs]

maybe the f23a7 doesnt have a pressure switch, hence causing issues:?
"ok your f23 might just have a plug where the sensor goes iv notice some motor not usdm dont have the pressure switch. if this is the case just remove the switch off the h22 and use the pulg off the f23

look in the same spot on the f23 if no sensor should be a screw there" as per:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/28-1995-1998-odyssey/40552-ra3-h22a-conversion-engine-arrived.html