Bogging After new Exhaust?

[ekR]

Hey guys,

tl;ldr at bottom sorry for the long story I just don't wanna miss anything

Got my car back yesterday a new custom exhaust system was put on it, upgraded from the stock one I was running with my b18c on aftermarket headers.

Shortly after I went to a friend's house who installed a cold air intake - noticed that when I got the exhaust done there was a bit of back fire happening as I drove out, mainly when I was shifting gears (not loud or anything but just small pops coming off the tip, so didn't seem like a cause for concern).

While I was driving to my friend's house for the intake I noticed it was really difficult to get on vtec or just rev it up in general, it's almost like as soon as it got to vtec engagement the car would start back firing a little bit, hesitate, then run fine and pretty much rinse and repeat every traffic light until I get there.

I got the cold air done, and as I drove off the car basically went limp (this was on an uphill) battery pretty much seemed like it died or there was no power to ignition or something like that and I pulled over, waited a moment, turned it back on - this was ok, tried to move again, same thing revved up and then almost like there was no power it just turned off.

My friend came out to have a look, we ended up moving it to flatter ground (wasn't going up a steep hill but it was an up hill road), turned it back on friend told me to do some rounds around the block and see if I could get on vtec and see if the back firing was just due to excess fuel that needed to be burned off... hit vtec for a few rounds around the block came back felt 100% better to drive thought there would be no more issues.

Had the occasional back fire here and there on the way home, but then it started bogging, basically 2-4k revs occasionally it will hit it up, maybe hesitate back fire a little but then almost change it's mind like nah this is cool let's keep going. Accelerating out of first and second into vtec is pretty much out of the question it will bog if I try to, but 3rd, 4th and 5th gears are ok to drive in.

If I drive normally which I do 95% of the time there is 0 problem it will run like it should.

Car seemed to be ok on the stock exhaust, really problem started after the exhaust, brand new cat and full 2.5" exhaust was installed all the way through from headers to tip so not sure where the issue could be.

I was suggested may the car needed a tune to fix up the fuel/air ratios with the cold air and exhaust but I'm running a factory jdm type r ecu that isn't chipped so tuning it isn't an option for now.



I'm not very savvy when it comes to stuff under the hood, unfortunately I haven't done much to check what's going on but so far I have tried to change the battery with a brand new on from super cheap and have checked the oil on a cold start, dip stick is registering just under the 2nd dot like it shuld.

Car is driven very sensibly, barely ever speed due to the old exhaust I thought getting on it too much might damage something since there wasn't as much flow and it was the stock ek1 one from factory, I was planning on actually using the car for it's potential after the exhaust but unfortunately I can't at the moment.

Where would you guys start?

Check Engine light is on, I tried to do the paperclip trick from the ecu but not sure which connector it's supposed to go in as I can't find the blue one like all the videos describe. I will definitely take it to a mechanic but just wanted to know what I might be able to do in the mean time

tl;dr - Car's exhaust was changed with a complete stock 2.5" all the way through exhaust yesterday, installed a cold air. Car seems to bog between 2-4k rpms and very hesitant getting on vtec, backfires a little not sure what the problem is, have checked oil and replaced battery issue still existing.

Things I could try in the mean time?
Injector Cleaner? Does this sound like the engine isn't getting fuel?
Fuel Filter? not sure when it was last changed I would have to assume when the new engine was dropped in but I'm not 100%


pls halp

[Daveho1]

Pull the code.
Passenger side under the dash near the door, it's there somewhere.
Let us know what code you get.

[amant02]

Why the fk would you drive your car with a check engine light.

Why the fk would try to engage VTEC with a check engine light.


My money is on O2 sensor rooted.

[Daveho1]

A lot of people do it mate, Donno why but they do, no point guessing what the issue is as the answer is stored in the ECU..
Point is don't go replacing random shit, people's random musings on what might be wrong are irellevent, the car can tell u what's wrong so;

Pull the code
Diagnose the fault
Confirm the diagnosis
Repair as required.

[ekR]

Why the fk would you drive your car with a check engine light.


Why the fk would try to engage VTEC with a check engine light.


My money is on O2 sensor rooted.

The car was recently converted the guy who did it told me it was an o2 sensor and that he had ordered some to come in but they would take a while to come in told me it was ok to drive atill though and its my only means of getting to work so yeah unfortunately i have been on his guidance i know its not ideal but yeah fml

[ekR]

Edit: I found the connector that you're supposedly supposed to paper clip but it's not connected to anything?

Is this normal or have I got the wrong connector?

http://i66.tinypic.com/rvws41.jpg

[curtis265]

Your O2 sensor is shagged. The shop fcuked it up or fcuked it off.

99.99% sure

The popping is normal. It's only been amplified by the new exhaust.

[connorling]

happened to me before , it was caused by the exhaust guy left something in the exhaust and restricted the flow, couldn't get any codes and I was pulling my hairs out, mechanic took the exhaust out and something was stuck in it.

could be simply thing like that or O2 sensor not plug in properly?

[ekR]

the o2 sensor is a known issue, apaprently it was on it's way out when the engine was installed - either that or maybe the one connected to the old d16 was reused? Is there a specific b18c one you should be using?

Long story short I went to a few mechanics for other work all of which identified either the o2 sensor wasn't plugged in (and they then plugged it in) - when I left the exhaust shop the guy again said the o2 sensor was plugged in because it wasn't so it looks like it either keeps falling out or maybe it's not the correct one?

I don't think a new o2 sensor was put in when I got the b18c so could it likely be the issue?

Really appreciate the feedback btw guys, love my car and it really has got me on edge lol

[ekR]

Hypothetically if it is an o2 sensor showing on the engine light, would it fix the bogging?

Could it be a simple tuning issue?

Like I said we went from a stock exhaust (1 and 1/4 inch?) to a 2.5 inch and a cold air intake

Could the air/fuel ratios just be wrong?

Will go and try and get the engine codes again in 5 minutes just getting ready to go to work

[connorling]

exhaust wont alter the AFR that much to cause you drama
I put in 2.5 inch exhaust, header and intake on my b18c before no issue

[ekR]

did you install a new header too ? Where did they mount the o2 sensor ?
Understand you have installed an exhaust possibly TWICE the size needed for your engine. You have essentially lost power from low to mid range - I would bet the issue lies in your "feeling" of the car right now compared to stock. With your new setup the car will actually be slower in all situations


To the guy who posted this and deleted his post (not sure why) gonna answer the question anyway for everyone else.

Yes, the b18c was installed with after market headers. No the issue doesn't lie in the feeling it genuinely does not "feel" like it should be running the way it should (i.e shouldn't be bogging at least).

I don't believe the exhaust is too big, a stock dc2r comes with a 2 inch exhaust so 2.5 isn't a huge jump.

Not sure where the o2 sensor was mounted.

Edit - plugged the paperclip into the connector flicked over to ignition codes weren't flashing - not sure if I'm plugging it deep enough? Trying to push it too far down without forcing it, it seems to hold inside without falling out but not getting any engine light flashing.

I guess best option is probably to just take it back to the mechanic

Cheers

[bennjamin]

EDIT it was me - I didn't read and thus my post didn't apply ( i assumed you had a standard ek1 !

The only relevance is the o2 sensor location - and the possibility that it was damaged / disconnected in the new install of your car/collector for the new exhaust.
I suggest the o2 sensor is located directly after the collector , and may of been damaged or the wiring to it damaged when installed. Get it checked out by the shop

[ekR]

EDIT it was me - I didn't read and thus my post didn't apply ( i assumed you had a standard ek1 !

The only relevance is the o2 sensor location - and the possibility that it was damaged / disconnected in the new install of your car/collector for the new exhaust.
I suggest the o2 sensor is located directly after the collector , and may of been damaged or the wiring to it damaged when installed. Get it checked out by the shop

Cheers man, a lot of o2 sensor consensus here really hope that's the issue cos I'm happy to fork out for it I guess.

I wish I could get the paper clip trick working maybe I'm not shoving it in hard enough :( inb4 that's what she said

[B18cEG]

It is highly unlikely that the o2 sensor is causing you these issues. It is possible that the exhaust shop has "tugged" on your o2 sensor wiring and possibly caused something else to come loose. You really need to get the error code, not sure why itsit's not working for you but please try again. With my experience on these engines a bad tps can cause these bogging issues or even an unplugged tps, do you know how to check the voltage at closed throttle, do a quick search on the specific wiring colours but you want the tps to be at 0.45-0.5v or as close to as possible. Please report back sir

[bennjamin]

If not a paper clip , use audio wire , and roll the edges up into a form point. Make sure there is length to the wire so you can fold it around easily and firmly push the ends into either side.

[connorling]

make sure the paper clip ends are touching the metal inside the 2 pin connector.

[ekR]

Alright, I might post a picture when I'm home to be sure I'm connecting it to the right connectors

Sorry I sound like such a dumb ass I really am I just love driving, can't speak for my mechanical knowledge though lol.

I will learn eventually though

Again really appreciate everyone's input. Can't wait for it to be running the way it should

[B18cEG]

2 pin male plug, usually blue I believe

[B18cEG]

Also make sure somebody didn't swap the map sensor plug with the tps plug

[ekR]

Alright I'm at home now. I wanna give this paper clip thing a go again. Is it ok to shove it as far as I want down the pin or can I damage something if I push it in too hard?

Just wanna know if I should be forcing it in or not

Again to reiterate this is the pin I'm trying to stick the paper clip in

http://puu.sh/lMvRh/6cf00847f2.jpg

[Daveho1]

You just put it in, the turn the car to ON

[ekR]

Hey guys thanks again for all the input, I tried the paper clip thing again still not able to get codes, I have a feeling I'm probably not pushing it in far enough but I don't feel like it goes any further and I don't wanna damage any pins.

Have no audio wire lying around either so unfortunately have nothing else to try.

I made an appointment, will take it in to a mechanic on saturday and hopefully he can diagnose and repair on the day.

Cheers again, have no 2nd car for a daily though unfortunately this is it so hoping it's nothing serious because I can't afford a new motor

Touch wood still going ok haha, am driving it as cautiously as possible.

Thankfully I only live about 10 minutes from work

[Daveho1]

Shoelace express

[B18cEG]

News? Did you check the tps and map sensor plugs around the correct way? Did you check the tps voltage?

[bennjamin]

News? Did you check the tps and map sensor plugs around the correct way? Did you check the tps voltage?

I would hope these two plugs weren't touched during an exhaust install , hopefully not by your friend during the intake install either.
Another idea is , did you plug the IAT back into the intake arm ? Is there a hole for the IAT ? (intake air sensor on intake arm)

[ekR]

Hey guys!

Took it to the mechanic yesterday - he was also unable to get the codes from the ECU we had no idea what was happening, we stuck a paper clip down the connector again and it still gave us no codes.

He had a look under the hood himself, one the knock sensor had been "chopped" (it was still there but not connected) so he explained to me because the ecu is factory basically it needs to be there (he did tell me the sensor was "obsolete" or not 100% needed - not sure the truth to that extent but anyway).

He installed my hondata s300 and "removed" the knock sensor from the programming, drove it around 400% better, I can get into vtec now - no bogging, no hesitating etc, really happy. Also no engine light.

I think we're back to normal now :)

Cheers again for everyone's help

[Daveho1]

Right... So who ever did the engine swap just did a shit job.. Either way glad u got your car sorted.
The hondata is a good upgrade but it's abit concerning that you can't seem to pull codes...

[ekR]

Right... So who ever did the engine swap just did a shit job.. Either way glad u got your car sorted.
The hondata is a good upgrade but it's abit concerning that you can't seem to pull codes...

I bought the engine as a package - guy I bought it off was in a different state and had someone who could do it here so that's where it went and that's where it was done.

Yeah unfortunately there have been bumps here and there with how the end result was complete and slowly finding more and more that wasn't done properly but yeah I can only hope for the best now.

At the end of the day I look at it as an engine going into a car it was never meant to be in so problems are standard, these ones just seem a little careless but nonetheless as long as my car is healthy I'm happy.

[Daveho1]

Yeah situations like that can be hard, I bought an engine from BYP a few years ago and I can't say that was a pleasant experience in the slightest.

[ekR]

I would hope these two plugs weren't touched during an exhaust install , hopefully not by your friend during the intake install either.
Another idea is , did you plug the IAT back into the intake arm ? Is there a hole for the IAT ? (intake air sensor on intake arm)

The IAT (the air flow sensor that plugs into the tubing on the cold air?) isn't plugged in - when I bought the cold air the rubber boot seal broke when it was taken out of the previous car. At the moment it's just sealed up so there's no air leak and the one on the intake manifold is plugged in (my understanding was that you don't have to have an air flow sensor but may be a little less economical.) I'm trying to find another boot so that I can plug in another air flow sensor, haven't been having much luck but I'll try the manufacturer of the cold air or maybe see if I'll get lucky at a wrecker.


Yeah situations like that can be hard, I bought an engine from BYP a few years ago and I can't say that was a pleasant experience in the slightest.

Oh shit go dude, I've heard good things about byp but I have heard the mixed reviews also. I've been a couple times and have had a pleasant experience both times.

[bennjamin]

ekR - is the IAT plugged into the sensor but hanging loose , or it isn't plugged into anything full stop ? It needs to see intake air just before the throttle body , not hot ambient air in the engine bay. Get that fixed and hopefully it will help


FYI BYP aren't legally mechanics , they are backyard DIY guys with abit of driving experience. Unfortunately due to reviews and bad experiences their work is hardly tip top.

[Daveho1]

Well I got a b18c2 and box from them, swore it was in good working order, Basicly the engine was in aweful shape and Te gearbox simply wouldn't engage third gear. Pretty poor, wouldn't recommend them to anyone

[bennjamin]

Well I got a b18c2 and box from them, swore it was in good working order, Basicly the engine was in aweful shape and Te gearbox simply wouldn't engage third gear. Pretty poor, wouldn't recommend them to anyone

I hope you got a full refund. Or took them to fair trading , or took it to your own ways to get a refund.

[ekR]

http://puu.sh/lTzcO/36f7de74f0.jpg

Hope this explains what I'm talking about and is what you're talking about

That sensor from the ek4 loom was plugged into the cold air tube, but it kept falling out (since it's not secured by the rubber boot thing) so I just sealed it with some electrical tape until I find a new boot so I can plug the sensor in.

Note where the sticky tape is, where the air flow sensor would normally plug in - I haven't unplugged the one going to the head (clarification)

P.S - any recommendations for good mechanics in new south wales? Really hard to find someone reliable these days most will rip you off and not do the job anyway


Well I got a b18c2 and box from them, swore it was in good working order, Basicly the engine was in aweful shape and Te gearbox simply wouldn't engage third gear. Pretty poor, wouldn't recommend them to anyone


That's a really shit go dude - before I got into the car scene I didn't understand the love people have for their cars, but now that I am and have started spending money on mine I understand the expression "pride and joy" and I hate knowing and experiencing people out there who call themselves professionals and will still dick you around. Especially those who take advantage of people who don't know as much

[bennjamin]

The pipe from the intake tube needs to flow to the head , as per standard. It can be loose as shown but needs to be fixed. The IAT needs to be plugged in , and installed properly to the intake tube. Get a grommet and fix it
AFAIK the IAT can retard timing and fuel a touch if required - ECUMAN will know. Fix up whatever you can and see how it goes

[ekR]

The pipe from the intake tube needs to flow to the head , as per standard. It can be loose as shown but needs to be fixed. The IAT needs to be plugged in , and installed properly to the intake tube. Get a grommet and fix it
AFAIK the IAT can retard timing and fuel a touch if required - ECUMAN will know. Fix up whatever you can and see how it goes

Yeah I'm trying to find another rubber boot/holder thing I can plug into the tube so that I can plug the air flow sensor in - it was held with sticky tape before but it still fell out so I just sealed it until I find something else I can put in it.

Been to supercheap, repco and bunnings none of them sell anything similar was planning on maybe going back to the manufacturer to see if they can send me a replacement but yeah, will do.

Cheers for the help dude really appreciate the breadth of knowledge I've gotten from everyone here.

The hose from the tube to the head is secure - the tube to the intake manifold is also secure. The tube itself is mounted to the chasis

[bennjamin]

If you are stuck - grab the sensor itself (unplugged from the wiring clip) grab some silicon sealant such as sikaflex , or even housing silicon (clear stuff) - apply a decent amount around the outer body of the sensor that would sit in a grommet and place into the existing hole in the intake arm. Smear more around the outer edge for a firm hold when dry. Make sure you dont get any on the sensor prong.

[ekR]

If you are stuck - grab the sensor itself (unplugged from the wiring clip) grab some silicon sealant such as sikaflex , or even housing silicon (clear stuff) - apply a decent amount around the outer body of the sensor that would sit in a grommet and place into the existing hole in the intake arm. Smear more around the outer edge for a firm hold when dry. Make sure you dont get any on the sensor prong.

Would heat from the engine bay melt the sealant?

That sounds like a really good temporary fix though, will do

Will grab a few more pictures for reference in a bit just waiting for this damn aldo v mcgregor fight to start lol


aaaaaaaaaaaand the fights over like 5 seconds in brb gonna go get photos

http://puu.sh/lTDSj/2c88edd948.jpg

http://puu.sh/lTDUs/54a0c35ac3.jpg

http://puu.sh/lTDV7/4d82b87be2.jpg

Not sure if these pictures help shine a light but anyway for what it's worth