OEX Replacement Alternator - Avoid them

[Kodak]

I purchased an OEX DXA561 replacement alternator for my CL9 Accord Euro after my original died - at 195k km.

A few days later the charge light warning indicator appear - would have missed if not for the audible ping. Soon these warnings appeared regularly.

I performed a drive test, logging the battery voltage over a period of approximately 30 minutes. The results illustrated several issues with the alternator:

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- Low and High output mode was not within the specified voltage range - Honda employs a dual charge charging system with a low output mode and a high output mode.
- System voltage approaching 11V prior to intervention (i.e.turning on AC)with drops to 9-10V. Indicative of the alternator failing to maintain the minimum charge requirements of the car.

As labelled on the chart, low voltage readings correlate to increasing charge warning indications and eventual dropping out of the instrument cluster completely. I assume an engine cut-out would have soon followed. Fortunately, turning on the AC (or head lights at night), activates the 'high output' mode and maintained a sufficient system voltage level to keep the vehicle on the road.

I swapped the OEX alternator out with a Denso over the weekend and no more problems since. The OEX has been returned for a refund.

I also recommend this article for anyone interested in how Hondas dual charging system works (http://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=auto_pres)

[Martin77]

Can you please tell us where you bought the denso alternator and how much was it?

[Kodak]

Adtec Auto Electrical, for $625.

[Fredoops]

why not a manufactured OEM?

[Kodak]

Remanufactured? Considered it. I bought the OEX as my original died on a Saturday night and not to many options available on a Sunday. When the OEX started showing problems I asked around and re-manufactured units use aftermarket parts (from china). I think the issue with the OEX is that the regulator is not compatible with the Honda ECM signal and therefore could not regulate the demanded current. I thought the same may occur with replacement parts so decided on the new Denso.

[Kodak]

I should also mention that the OEX DXA561 is used on the following Honda's: Accord, Accord Euro, Civic and CRV or engines: K24A4, K24Z2, K24A3, and K20Z2 and that OEX are the aftermarket brand provided by Repco, Autobarn and R&E Auto Parts.

[minircc]

Great info. Thanks Kodak

[Martin77]

Remanufactured? Considered it. I bought the OEX as my original died on a Saturday night and not to many options available on a Sunday. When the OEX started showing problems I asked around and re-manufactured units use aftermarket parts (from china). I think the issue with the OEX is that the regulator is not compatible with the Honda ECM signal and therefore could not regulate the demanded current. I thought the same may occur with replacement parts so decided on the new Denso.

When you replaced the alternator, did you also replace the alternator wiring that goes to the battery? I looked at my wiring this morning and I am sure it is 10 gauge wire (approx. 5 mm2) which is quite small.
I am thinking of adding (in parallel) additional 6 awg wire (13 mm2) from the alternator to the battery. Has anyone done this? Did you put it into another sleeve for additional mechanical protection?

[Kodak]

When you replaced the alternator, did you also replace the alternator wiring that goes to the battery? I looked at my wiring this morning and I am sure it is 10 gauge wire (approx. 5 mm2) which is quite small.
I am thinking of adding (in parallel) additional 6 awg wire (13 mm2) from the alternator to the battery. Has anyone done this? Did you put it into another sleeve for additional mechanical protection?

Given the possibility/consequence of a short, if you plan on duplicating the battery cable I would definitely use a sheath. I would also recommend going through the fuse box (as the original does).
I had a quick look tonight and although I couldn't get the boot down past its sheath the battery wire looked like 8AWG.

[Martin77]

Thanks for that. I will buy an inline 100A fuse and install near the battery.
Initially, I wasn't sure whether I should install the fuse as my first instinct would tell me that the fuse will limit current flow as the cross sectional area is small. Do you remember the alternator fuse size inside the fuse box?
Is this upgrade something you would do Kodak?

[Kodak]

Thanks for that. I will buy an inline 100A fuse and install near the battery.
Initially, I wasn't sure whether I should install the fuse as my first instinct would tell me that the fuse will limit current flow as the cross sectional area is small. Do you remember the alternator fuse size inside the fuse box?
Is this upgrade something you would do Kodak?

Why don't you start a new thread on this topic?

It is not something I would do. Why do you want to do it? Do you have an aftermarket stereo system? Is that connected directly to the battery? If so, you would be by-passing your cars own management of charge current (the dual charge mode) as the ECM would not be detecting the additional load on the battery.

[Martin77]

I am doing the "big 3 upgrade" to increase the reliability of the electrical system. The accord euro seems to be very marginal with their wiring. I have done the grounding wires but have not done the alternator to battery connection.
I don't want to get carried away like what we have on you tube with big 0 AWG cable. I bought 4 awg for this.
Yes, I also do have aftermarket stereo system but I think the big 3 upgrade is good for stock car also. Thanks for your help Kodak.

[Cla]

Thanks for this post, it actually confirmed with great detail something I was already thinking.