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View Full Version : Accord Euro manual gearbox problems..



yamsbrah
09-06-2016, 10:41 PM
Hey guys, I got a Honda Accord Euro a few months ago and I have enjoyed ownership of it, however ever since I got these problems have existed.

- 1st gear hard to get into in idle
- 2nd gear grinds getting into at high RPMs
- When idle reverse grinds HARD, unless I shift into third and then choose reverse where it's smooth as.

I changed my transmission oil today, it came out black but that did not really fix anything.
Anyone know whats wrong? How can I fix this issue?

edit: it is a 2006 CL9 accord

aaronng
10-06-2016, 07:54 AM
Sounds like your clutch fluid needs replacement or an air bubble has gotten into your clutch line. Just bleed it through the slave cylinder, which is located in between the intake header and the radiator, below the radiator hose. It is a tight fit for your hand but you'll be able to reach it with a small spanner.

yamsbrah
10-06-2016, 03:40 PM
Sounds like your clutch fluid needs replacement or an air bubble has gotten into your clutch line. Just bleed it through the slave cylinder, which is located in between the intake header and the radiator, below the radiator hose. It is a tight fit for your hand but you'll be able to reach it with a small spanner.

My car is sitting at 83xxx, would my fluid need to be replaced?
Also where would the reservoir for the clutch fluid be?

Hondarally
10-06-2016, 05:41 PM
Sounds like worn synchros. What oil did you put in? Shouldn't really need fluids at those km but definitely will improve things (specially the clutch fluid)

aaronng
10-06-2016, 07:12 PM
My car is sitting at 83xxx, would my fluid need to be replaced?
Also where would the reservoir for the clutch fluid be?

Yes, it should be replaced every 40,000 km or so. The reservoir is next to the brake fluid reservoir. It's the smaller one with the gray cap.

aaronng
10-06-2016, 07:13 PM
Sounds like worn synchros. What oil did you put in? Shouldn't really need fluids at those km but definitely will improve things (specially the clutch fluid)

Reverse gear does not have synchros. So if that is crunching, then it is the clutch fluid or a worn clutch cylinder seal. At his low kms, it should be the fluid.

mocchi
10-06-2016, 07:27 PM
yh check clutch fluid m8
check cheap shit first before jumping to big buks conclusion ok

Hondarally
11-06-2016, 12:13 PM
Reverse gear does not have synchros. So if that is crunching, then it is the clutch fluid or a worn clutch cylinder seal. At his low kms, it should be the fluid.

Correct. No synchros in reverse. Technique here can also be the culprit. I've seen numpties have this problem when there was nothing wrong with the car.
Fact it's crunching into 2nd at high rpm and the fact that the gearbox oil came out black ( did op drain the right oil?) point to gearbox issues.

By all means change fluids first to eliminate the cheaper options. Hopefully that's all it is.
Clutch fluid doesn't have the same hard life brake fluid does. Even if it's never been changed I'd be surprised if it was causing these problems on a stock system. I've seen cars go double that distance on original fluid. Not recommended tho.

yamsbrah
11-06-2016, 01:22 PM
I also should mention that it worsens after long drives, when i start driving early into my trip the gearbox is pretty smooth, what would that mean?

aaronng
12-06-2016, 11:32 AM
I also should mention that it worsens after long drives, when i start driving early into my trip the gearbox is pretty smooth, what would that mean?
Does this still happen after you had changed the transmission fluid? And just to confirm, you changed it with Honda MTF or an equivalent with viscosity 75w80? Regardless of the answer, change your clutch fluid next.

yamsbrah
03-07-2016, 12:59 PM
I probably should of updated on this. I did in fact bleed the clutch fluid and the car is now flawless with it's transmission, however when I do drive it for a bit it does tend to feel more notchy over time, any idea what the problem would be?

xxb4xx
05-08-2016, 08:23 AM
I probably should of updated on this. I did in fact bleed the clutch fluid and the car is now flawless with it's transmission, however when I do drive it for a bit it does tend to feel more notchy over time, any idea what the problem would be?

I've had both the CL9 and the CU2, both in Manual and both have been a bit 'notchy', well, the CU2 is a lot more notchier than the CL9.

aaronng
14-08-2016, 09:12 AM
I probably should of updated on this. I did in fact bleed the clutch fluid and the car is now flawless with it's transmission, however when I do drive it for a bit it does tend to feel more notchy over time, any idea what the problem would be?
Good to hear that you solved that problem. With regards to notchyness, it could be either normal synchro wear or your transmission fluid is the wrong viscosity. Which transmission fluid did you use when you replaced it back in June? CL9's use 75w80 transmission fluid. It is thinner than the normal manual transmission fluids that other car brands use.

yamsbrah
19-10-2016, 02:32 PM
Good to hear that you solved that problem. With regards to notchyness, it could be either normal synchro wear or your transmission fluid is the wrong viscosity. Which transmission fluid did you use when you replaced it back in June? CL9's use 75w80 transmission fluid. It is thinner than the normal manual transmission fluids that other car brands use.

Yes I used penrite's synthetic 75w80 fluid
I'm looking to upgrade to a Euro R or EP3 gearbox over the summer since I really don't like the current ratios in the car though, would anyone know decent places to look?