Squealing glazed brakes - late model Jazz

[garbage]

I've had my 2015 Jazz (GF) since new. At about 15,000 kms, it developed a squeal in the brakes that happens a couple of times per drive. At the 20,000 km service, the dealer said it probably had a rock stuck in there. The squeal continued to happen and at the 30,000 km service, they said the brakes were glazed and that they had sanded them down. There hasn't been any real improvement since.

I previously had the GE Jazz for 6 years prior to this and no squealing whatsoever and I've driven both cars in the same manner. I use it as a family car so often have 4 passengers on board - not sure if this extra load has anything to do with it. I do note that the GE did have disc brakes front and rear which while the GF has drums at the rear.

Has anyone experienced this in their Jazz? Any suggestions on what I can do?

[beeza]

I haven't a jazz but sounds like a pad swap may fix it.

Is it coming from the front disks or rear drums?

[garbage]

I haven't a jazz but sounds like a pad swap may fix it.

Is it coming from the front disks or rear drums?

The dealer said the pads had plenty left in them. Not sure whether it's front or rear.

[Richard B]

Hunting down brake squeal can eat your sanity.

It's easier for disc brakes to squeal than drums. Try clean the contact area of the backing plates behind the pad with brake cleaner, and making a few good hard - almost ABS - stops to bed everything in. If that makes it worse (this can happen - sorry) try the Beeza solution. Buy pads with different friction material if you can.

Actually just try the hard stops first. Introduce some wear / change in the setup so the harmonics of the brake components undergo some sort of collective change.

[Martin77]

And make sure it is greased properly (caliper pins, back of pads (between the pad and shim) and the small area the pads slide) using brake grease.
I used CRC brake quiet (similar functionality to brake grease but rubbery and tacky compound) on the back of the pads previously and that seemed to help.
At 30k km it is probably worn about half way (depending on the drive and how its driven). They are right, there is still plenty of meat but some pads are more prone to noise (I think this is where Beeza is coming from).

[beeza]

Yup.I am going through a rattling front right brake caliper due to the sliding bolt sticking and only moving a bit.

I cleaned and lubed em but still a bit of a rattle there due to a worn Sliding bolt as I noticed it had worn.$18 on ebay.

I thought it was the anti rattle clips but they only hold the pads on,on the ek civic,dunno about other models.

[amant02]

Just change pads and rotors. They have already sanded the pads and problem still persists.

Cheaper option just live with it. Noise dont mean it wont stop you in time.

Its making noises, because someone didn't bed them in proper. Abused too early also leads to noises.

[beeza]

dba rotors are cheap and good off ebay.

[amant02]

Just buy cheap rda ones..... no need to step up to dba, only a juzz.

[beeza]

lolzer

[Richard B]

I just picked up 4 new rotors from the RDA warehouse this morning.

2 female staff ran the discs to my car in the pouring rain while I walked under my umbrella holding the receipt and a fair bit of internalised embarrassment :o :o :o

[Martin77]

I just picked up 4 new rotors from the RDA warehouse this morning.

2 female staff ran the discs to my car in the pouring rain while I walked under my umbrella holding the receipt and a fair bit of internalised embarrassment :o :o :o

That's great Richard.
Can you please tell us the process in purchasing RDA rotors from the warehouse?

[Richard B]

That's great Richard.
Can you please tell us the process in purchasing RDA rotors from the warehouse?

I bought the items on their Ebay shop, paid for them online, and asked them to hold the items for collection at the Marrickville warehouse. They say on Ebay that they also accept cash on pickup.

BTW my car does not have standard Euro brakes, and I had to do a hell of a lot of searching to locate the parts in AU. What does not help is that Honda gives different part numbers to identical parts when they are fitted on different models. I won't know for sure if the search paid off until I fit the parts. In the end I didn't go for RDA because they were cheap, but because they have a rotor dimension search on their website.

[Martin77]

Thanks for your input Richard,
I had similar experience with my brothers 2007 corolla. For some reason his pads and rotors does not match most corollas of the same model.
I had to disassemble the brakes to visually check the pads (shape) and measure the size of the rotors (275 mm instead of the normal 255 mm for corolla) before ordering them. I dont have confidence buying parts for his car anymore. I was planning to replace the fuel filter but afraid of ordering the wrong parts. I feel your pain.

[amant02]

I bought the items on their Ebay shop, paid for them online, and asked them to hold the items for collection at the Marrickville warehouse. They say on Ebay that they also accept cash on pickup.

BTW my car does not have standard Euro brakes, and I had to do a hell of a lot of searching to locate the parts in AU. What does not help is that Honda gives different part numbers to identical parts when they are fitted on different models. I won't know for sure if the search paid off until I fit the parts. In the end I didn't go for RDA because they were cheap, but because they have a rotor dimension search on their website.


A what.... Honda used the same brakes on all their models. DC5R, Euro, EP3R, DC5S, Odyssey are all the same. Only difference is mounting and some caliper shape, but they are all interchangeable. I replaced my brothers DC5S front caliper with one that came off an euro. Sort of different shape but its identical and fits.

[Richard B]

A what.... Honda used the same brakes on all their models. DC5R, Euro, EP3R, DC5S, Odyssey are all the same. Only difference is mounting and some caliper shape, but they are all interchangeable. I replaced my brothers DC5S front caliper with one that came off an euro. Sort of different shape but its identical and fits.

I perhaps naively assumed there would be lots of standardisation and availability in brake components. After all why would Honda design something for just one model?

My car is an imported CM2 Diesel Accord.. Front discs are D 300mm H 41mm T 25mm (Euro is 28mm). Rear is D 282mm, H 61mm, T 9 mm, with 170mm internal park brake drum. But some CM2's have 280mm front and some have 260mm rear.

I had loads of trouble finding discs going by manufacturers part numbers. The Honda part numbers only refer to the CM2 and not to any other models using the same discs. There are about 10 brands in EU that market discs specific to this car, all with their own numbering system. But only Bosch seems to also operate in AU. But Bosch operates with different, non compatible part numbers in EU, and there was no information online. It wasn't until I started searching with actual dimensions that I started finding compatible discs.. but then again, most online sites do not state all dimensions (US sites only ever list car models, never dimensions) and some online "retailers" list measurements that don't correspond, so must be incorrect.

I ended up with Integra front discs, and Oddyssey rears, roughly 2002 vintage. That makes sense, as these were current items when the CM2 was designed.

I didn't think it would be this tricky. I almost gave up and air freighted 4 discs from the UK.

[amant02]

Now im confused..... I thought they were all 300MM

[Richard B]

Outer diameter is just one dimension. The height of the disc ("hat" height) determines where how far the disk sits back from the hub, aligning it with the caliper, and disc thickness when new is matched with different calipers. The AU Accord uses 28mm thick discs. These could possibly work with my calipers, but Honda specifies 25 mm for my car, so it could be that with new pads the caliper won't stretch wide enough. The pads used on the wagon are also slightly larger than the saloon.

Disc diameter tends to be matched with rim diameter. I think the 8th generation accord uses 320mm.

[Hondarally]

Just google dba pdf catalogue. They have a full pdf catalogue for cars available in Australia up to about 2013. It can be found on their site but can take a bit of searching (can't find it when I search on my phone ). Will come up directly in google search results tho.

One step better is an excel version of the same which allows you to filter and search brake rotors by key dimension.

[rc_]

Outer diameter is just one dimension. The height of the disc ("hat" height) determines where how far the disk sits back from the hub, aligning it with the caliper, and disc thickness when new is matched with different calipers. The AU Accord uses 28mm thick discs. These could possibly work with my calipers, but Honda specifies 25 mm for my car, so it could be that with new pads the caliper won't stretch wide enough. The pads used on the wagon are also slightly larger than the saloon.

Disc diameter tends to be matched with rim diameter. I think the 8th generation accord uses 320mm.

There are a few different specs for rotors on accord early 2000 vintage. Some models weren't offered here and even on the same model they can be different in other markets.Also sometimes the catalogues are wrong or don't have all the available options.

I used some uk spec accord euro 28 x 282 rotors on my Integra. You won't be able to fit the 28mm rotors in calipers drained for 25mm thick unless the pads are well worn down as you mentioned. The caliper brackets are different, they are marked with the rotor thickness they are designed for eg 23t, 25t & 28t. Usually the caliber body is interchangeable.

With 28mm thick rotors and new pads I had to remove the backing shims to fit the pads in mine, the pads are around 17mm thickness each side when new depending on brand.

[u mad?]

Haven't read the replies in this thread but use some hi-temp goo on the backing plate, that's where most of your brake squeel comes from, its the pad vibrating against the piston at high frequency, some mechanics don't bother to use it and instead rely solely on the shims to dampen the vibrations.

[hulio18]

I've had my 2015 Jazz (GF) since new. At about 15,000 kms, it developed a squeal in the brakes that happens a couple of times per drive. At the 20,000 km service, the dealer said it probably had a rock stuck in there. The squeal continued to happen and at the 30,000 km service, they said the brakes were glazed and that they had sanded them down. There hasn't been any real improvement since.

I previously had the GE Jazz for 6 years prior to this and no squealing whatsoever and I've driven both cars in the same manner. I use it as a family car so often have 4 passengers on board - not sure if this extra load has anything to do with it. I do note that the GE did have disc brakes front and rear which while the GF has drums at the rear.

Has anyone experienced this in their Jazz? Any suggestions on what I can do?

Brand new Jazz MY 17 has been squealing since about 3 months after I bought it- just had first service and no change- have to go through warranty claim now- second in short ownership!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gambate]

Brand new Jazz MY 17 has been squealing since about 3 months after I bought it- just had first service and no change- have to go through warranty claim now- second in short ownership!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mum's MY15 GK also starts to screech around 6 months ago, now it has around 10,000KMs. that is not a worry for us thou, its the water leak via drivers door toward the back foot well that is giving us shits. been pulling the door card many times, resealing the plastic sheet and it always break free whenever the water accumulate and the water weight pushes the goo clean off. permatex "maximum oil resistant gasket maker" black silicon doesnt help, it usually stick on most thing but it wont stick to the plastic.:(

dont get me started on the GE that always chew through the rear brake pads, every 15k~20k KMs

mum not going to buy a honda ever again:thumbdwn:

[Hondarally]

Erm.....maybe you could try cleaning out the drain holes in the bottom of the door? They're not supposed to fill with water, you know.

[Jasemas]

mum's MY15 GK also starts to screech around 6 months ago, now it has around 10,000KMs. that is not a worry for us thou, its the water leak via drivers door toward the back foot well that is giving us shits. been pulling the door card many times, resealing the plastic sheet and it always break free whenever the water accumulate and the water weight pushes the goo clean off. permatex "maximum oil resistant gasket maker" black silicon doesnt help, it usually stick on most thing but it wont stick to the plastic.:(

dont get me started on the GE that always chew through the rear brake pads, every 15k~20k KMs

mum not going to buy a honda ever again:thumbdwn:

Dunno what your mum was doing
But my ge6 has 86k kms on ORIGINAL braking components. ..

[gambate]

Dunno what your mum was doing
But my ge6 has 86k kms on ORIGINAL braking components. ..

we thought mechanic was trying to scam us for rear brake pads, i did a little digging...
http://gdlauto.com.au/gdl-auto-blog/honda-jazz-2007-2013-common-problems/

he even showed us, he cleaned out everything, made sure all sliding pins were greased etc etc. it still wear faster than the front. tried bendix pads, genuine etc, all the same.

[gambate]

Erm.....maybe you could try cleaning out the drain holes in the bottom of the door? They're not supposed to fill with water, you know.

i did double checked. its like the glass has a weird angle that allows water drips onto the plastic sheet instead of straight down. quick google found that we are not alone...