[Euro CL9] Audio upgrade advice

[LordLunatic]

Hi guys,

I have been thinking about upgrading the audio on my 2005 Lux Euro as a bit of a fun project for me to do casually to learn a few things (pretty much a beginner at car related stuff) and I was hoping for a little advice on a few things

Firstly if I were to do this piecemeal, what would be a good order to do it in? I was thinking headunit first, and then later speakers/amp and then later a sub?

Secondly say I went with a new HU, I was reading up on this website (Crutchfield (https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4A42lTop0y8/learn/2003-07-honda-accord-ex-sedan.html)) that The reality is that it's powered by a low-output Honda radio (roughly 10 watts RMS x 4 channels) .
What does that mean exactly? If I were to buy a new HU, say for example the following (SupercheapAuto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Kenwood-Audio-Visual-Player-with-Bluetooth-DVD-DDX5015BT/376658?menuFrom=1021692)) then do I run the risk of blowing the speakers because of too much power? Or are the speakers capable, but the stock HU underpowers them?

Also if anyone has any suggestions for gear that they recommend, that would be great too, im still in early research stages so I dont have a firmed budget yet, but I was hoping for around 7-800 for the whole setup.

Thanks for any advice :D

[Martin77]

It is important to work out at the front in what you like to achieve in this project. Is it,
To get the best audio improvement with $800
To learn complete audio installation and improve the sound as you go along
To upgrade the audio/visual technology with apple carplay, etc...

I am sure Fredoops have just changed his sound system. I can't remember what he used (mb quart?). One thing you could do which doesn't need to cost a lot of money is to sound deaden your door. This improves the quality of the ride in general.

Replacing the head unit is not an easy task. Honda may have only 10 watt RMS, a new head unit (max 25W) will not blow any speakers. If you were to install an amplifier, power rating of the head unit is not that important. Did you know that you tend to blow/damage more speakers by under powering it?

[LordLunatic]

It is important to work out at the front in what you like to achieve in this project. Is it,
To get the best audio improvement with $800
To learn complete audio installation and improve the sound as you go along
To upgrade the audio/visual technology with apple carplay, etc...


Can you not get a decent system (not the greatest/best) for around that price range that is straight-forward to install and also throws in a few new techs?



Replacing the head unit is not an easy task. Honda may have only 10 watt RMS, a new head unit (max 25W) will not blow any speakers. If you were to install an amplifier, power rating of the head unit is not that important. Did you know that you tend to blow/damage more speakers by under powering it?


Well if the existing unit is in fact 10W, and you're saying that it could handle 25, does that mean it is currently underpowering its own speakers and under stock conditions can blow/damage the speakers?

[webbrowan]

Like what @martin77 here is saying, I think you need to work out your budget and your goals here. I would not want to boost my entire sound system and bankrupt myself in the process too. Not to be discouraging or anything but as a newbie, you also have to draw a line for yourself and figure out when you have to call it quits and send the car into the shop to get the professionals to take over as well. That said, it's probably a good idea that you're starting work on a stereo - it's easier to get by without music in the car than it is to get by without something under the hood! Haha!

[Fredoops]

OK so I've upgraded mine recently.

But I had particular requirements which limited my options.

my requirement were:

1.keep the existing cubby hole underneath the stock radio for storage
* therefore I can't install a separate single or double dining head unit under the stock audio.

2. No extra bolting and no running new wire to the back of the car
* therefore I can not use a big amplifier.


So what I ended up doing was wiring a small 400w 4 channel amp (for motorbikes) and hidden it inside the dash behind the Centre air com vents. And replaced the speakers.

The effect is good but it cost a bit more than what I could've spent without my specific requirements.

If you want a cheap and basic upgrade:

1.Keep stock speakers.
2. Wire up a single din head under and but under the stock head unit (you can buy fascia to replace the cubby hole.
3. Sound deaden the front doors (and rear parcel shelf)

That should cost you less than 300 total... But if you want to keep steering wheel control... Add another 100 for the adaptor.

[Dogchaser]

So the real question is why?
I have the same vehicle (CL9 05 Lux) and found the fact it did not read MP3 most annoying.
Particulary as our CRV had that ability.
The sound quality stock is more than enough to make you deaf if you want to be, but no MP3/iPod was no good.
I installed an input gizmo in the underneath flip box.
It is hidden, and looks stock, and works with steering wheels controls.
It does not pick up Bluetooth or stream but the ability to charge phone is more helpful.....
What music format you listen to is the first question...
Noise insulation is the second.
Motivation third.

[Fredoops]

So the real question is why?
I have the same vehicle (CL9 05 Lux) and found the fact it did not read MP3 most annoying.
Particulary as our CRV had that ability.
The sound quality stock is more than enough to make you deaf if you want to be, but no MP3/iPod was no good.
I installed an input gizmo in the underneath flip box.
It is hidden, and looks stock, and works with steering wheels controls.
It does not pick up Bluetooth or stream but the ability to charge phone is more helpful.....
What music format you listen to is the first question...
Noise insulation is the second.
Motivation third.

It's not the "volume" that's the problem

The oem sound processor (Panasonic unit) is crap, clarity and mid range simply isn't there. And the factory EQ is... Funny, since it sends lots of bass down the rear coaxial speakers even tho it's low rms of 10w, so the whole thing sounds muddled.

Also most aftermarket aux plugs are poorly amplified. Which makes it even worse if you got that funny factory EQ setup.

Also the front door is not insulated. Which is kinda odd since the factory door speaker is actually a woofer since it's a split system.

You can fix the factory system by adding a DSP but that would cost more than a single din setup

[amant02]

For $800 that's an okay budget.

I'd wait for the end of financial year and grab a bargain from JBHIFI.

I have not played with car audio in awhile, but I assure you for $800 you can have a banging sound system as long as you dont mind the brand.

I picked up a 4way 6.5in, component speakers for the front, 1 amp, wiring kit, dash cam, reverse camera and a double din touch screen for around $350 mark few years ago.

BUT its a Sony :(

Jumped on facebook picked up a sub and monoblock second hand for like a $100. Bobs your uncle doof dooof doof for days.

Unlike others I recommend against sound deadening, sure it makes for a quieter ride and stops stuff from rattling .... but it add's fair amount of weight if you were to do it properly. This is really for if you were spending some serious coin on a setup.

Protip get some rubber or similar material and put it behind your number plate that will be stop the worse of it. Stop it from vibrating.

[Martin77]

Probably good to do it in a staged approach starting from the easiest (as a diy'er) and enjoy the result of your work incrementally. The easiest upgrade is to replace the rear deck speakers with high sensitivity speakers. Good to get high sensitivity speakers because it will sound pretty good without an amp (but will always sound better with one). You can get Polk audio db692 speakers from Ryda online store from ebay. Until the 2nd May they have a 20% discount (eBay voucher code - c20tek) which brings it down from $200 to $160 delivered.

[Fredoops]

Id deaden the front doors first..
Before I touch the rear I would fix the signal, amp it or run it off another source

[Martin77]

In term of sound deadening there are several product you could use. Most professional would cover the doors with dynamat type sheet with 30 to 50 percent coverage to add weight hence eliminate vibration from the doors.
I prefer using adhesive backed 10 mm weather shield covering as much of the area as possible. I got mine from Clarke rubber and the one that has the adhesive backing is $50 per meter and probably need 2 meters to cover all four doors. I liked this better than dynamat as it does deaden the doors and also provide good noise insulation from outside. Car feel more up market even without the CD player.

Fred is right. In term of bang for buck upgrade you need to follow his recommendations. My rear deck speaker upgrade was based on ease of installation (for beginners) choosing the right speakers just in case amp and head unit installation proved to be too difficult for you.