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tegstar83
24-04-2005, 08:47 PM
Hey all I was replacing the outer CV boot on my car and was wondering if I have to take out the hole driveshaft from the gearbox just to replace the boot?? If thats the case then do I have to take off every boot rubber just to get the outer one on??

Any help is appreciated :thumbsup:

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 12:05 AM
Hallooo Can any1 hepl ??

bennjamin
25-04-2005, 12:06 AM
Hey all I was replacing the outer CV boot on my car and was wondering if I have to take out the hole driveshaft from the gearbox just to replace the boot?? If thats the case then do I have to take off every boot rubber just to get the outer one on??

Any help is appreciated :thumbsup:

IT is relatively straightforward - since the driveshaft "sits" inside the spline ( that is connected directly to the diff housing on the gearbox) - you simply unhook it - carefully pull out the driveshaft from the spline , take off the old crakced boot , fit a new boot , fit in the 3 bearings and shaft again and fill back up with the CV grease. Then, reseal and make sure everythign is tight and ready to go

THIS was a very vauge explanation btw...please research it up or even get a professional to do for u if unsure !

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 12:16 AM
Sorry ben uve bloddy confussed me :confused:
Are u saying that the first set of bearings closest to the hub/stub axel have to be popped out of position and then slide on the new boot. If thats what u do how do u pop the shorter shaft out of the bearings?
Thanks Ps what is the spline ??

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 01:44 AM
Sorry but casn any one help me I need to get an answer now *sorry my car is out of action and I wanna get it fixed tommorrow*

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 03:16 PM
What a knoledge base man :rolleyes: Come on man my cars just sitting there need answers please

CTR Coupe
25-04-2005, 03:30 PM
you have to remove the whole drive shaft from the car. break the seals off the boot(the silver bands) slide the old boot off the drive shaft. add grease etc. then slide the new boot on and attach the seals.

SIKCVC
25-04-2005, 03:41 PM
Go get it done professionally.

You need to pull the whole shaft out which means (unless you have a rattle gun) you will have to remove the suspension knuckle then the driveshaft will come out of the tripod cup. remove the bearings (rounded if non-Vtec, square base if VTEC). Then remove circlip, spider and stopper ring from the spline. now you can slide off the 2 CV boots, I recomend doing both at once to save a future waste of time. When putting the whole assembelly back together remember to align all the markings, i have no idea what happens if you dont but yeah, sure they're there for a reason.

Oh this is all assuming you have taken the wheel and brakes off too.

Have fun, took me a few hours on my own without proper tools.

type one
25-04-2005, 03:44 PM
if you get it done prefessionally DO NOT take it to honda... expensive for a job which should take a pro an hour If that...

SIKCVC
25-04-2005, 03:48 PM
it shouldn't take a pro long because they dont need to remove the spider. they just undo the spline from the hub and pop if all off the wheel end. They also save the 20mins or so of fiddling around on your back trying to fit the bearings back into the tripod cup by not having to hold 10-15kgs of susy set up in place.

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 03:52 PM
Go get it done professionally.

You need to pull the whole shaft out which means (unless you have a rattle gun) you will have to remove the suspension knuckle then the driveshaft will come out of the tripod cup. remove the bearings (rounded if non-Vtec, square base if VTEC). Then remove circlip, spider and stopper ring from the spline. now you can slide off the 2 CV boots, I recomend doing both at once to save a future waste of time. When putting the whole assembelly back together remember to align all the markings, i have no idea what happens if you dont but yeah, sure they're there for a reason.

Oh this is all assuming you have taken the wheel and brakes off too.

Have fun, took me a few hours on my own without proper tools.

Nah dont need a rattle gun just pure strenght :D Ive already taken off the knuckle/stub axel and have the drive shaft out of the hub but still in the transmission. The boot thats gone is the outer one. So what I need to know is how to get the boot on the shaft do I need to take off the bearings to slide the boot on cause it wont stretch like a sock. If so how do i take off these bearings?? from what I can gather is that there is a circlip that has to come out along with the hole pivoting assembly and bearings is this right??

SIKCVC
25-04-2005, 04:10 PM
you need a rattle gun to undo the hub nut. that or an 6 foot breaker bar and even still its a ****(i couldn't do it with 75kgs hanging off the end of it).

you need to take the tripod peices of the CV apart. pull the spline out from the cup. then you will see the 3 bearings on a spider, the bearings will fall off. then there is a circlip on the top of the spider, unclip it, then remove the spider and there is a second 10 times stiffer stopper circlip which needs to be removed. once they're off the new CV boots will slide on... you should replace both at once because you need to go through this whole process again if the inner goes.

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 04:29 PM
Nah I took off the hub nut with a 15cm breaker bar its piss easy mate and from what ur telling me Im smaller than u :D
What do u mean by the tripod peices ??
And when putting in the bearings and the spider :confused: * I still dont know what that is*do I need to line these up agian or something? also can these circlips be reused?? And should I degrease the joint before re packing with grease??

ECU-MAN
25-04-2005, 04:41 PM
If you do not understand any of my above instructions DO NOT try this. I nor OzHonda take any resonsibility if you mess us and do damage to your car or CV joint.

its interesting to see how others do things :)

to do the outer joint I leave the inner one alone

anyway. what I do is take the shaft out, ( you dont need a rattle gun to do this job, or strength, just brains ),
- to undo that bigass tight bolt on the hub, get a vato to hold the brake peddle down ( hard ) you put your socket and breaker bar on the bolt, stand on the bar and use our body weight to crack the nut, the undo it.

- once yo have undone the bottom balljoint ( see Wynode's DIY ISB video ) (http://tech.ozhonda.com/diy/isb/balljoint.avi) and suspention fork, use a screw driver to pry out the shaft from the gearbox housing.

- take the shaft out, undo the clamps on the outer joint.slide the boot back.
- take note how far the joint goes onto the splines of the shaft. ( measure it )
- I use a hammer to whack off the joint. I take extream care not to damage the joint. hit the inner part, that is on the splines, do not be sloppy and hit the shaft and splines.
- take off the old boot, put on new boot,
- put your new or old joint back on the shaft, line up the splines, get the cir clip right. and gently tap the joint on the shaft to the same length on the splines yo measured above.
- put CV grease in the new boot,
put the boot on the cv joint, use a screw driver to burp the boot. ( get air out of the boot.)
- put the boot ties on. nice and tight. to make sure grease doesnt splurt out.

- put the shaft back in the car, gently slide the shaft into the gearbox. using the shaft and with a bit of back and forth action you can get the inner joint to click back into place in the gearbox.

- put everything back together.
- DONT forget to put NEW split pins back in the casalated nuts. and stake the hub nut.

- Check your gear box or Auto Trans fluid level when finished



things that make the job easyer

- jack the car up in one side only, and put the jack stand under one side only and lower the car on to the stand. this makes the car tilt to one side, so you wont loose fluid out of the tranny or gearbox. Check your gear box or Auto Trans fluid level when finished

- you can cut off your split boot off the joint with a stanley knife, gives you more room to see when smaking off the joint with the hammer.

be vary carful when hitting the cv joint with a hammer. dont butcher the circlip
dont force anything

only takes 30 min to 45 min per side if nothing goes wrong, some times getting the cv joint out of the hub is a bitch, also getting the cv joint off/on the shaft can suck sometimes. but 9 times out of 10 everything goes well.

if you dont feal confident dont try it get a pro to do it.

I have seen back yard attempts to do this job, failing to put the split pins in will results in the joint coming undone and the wheel flapping free damaging the front suspention and guard.

not a hard job to do but one that must be done right
good luck

If you do not understand any of my above instructions DO NOT try this. I nor OzHonda take any resonsibility if you mess us and do damage to your car or CV joint.

SIKCVC
25-04-2005, 06:34 PM
to undo that bigass tight bolt on the hub, get a vato to hold the brake peddle down ( hard ) you put your socket and breaker bar on the bolt, stand on the bar and use our body weight to crack the nut, the undo it.

Ok well that doesnt work with my car. I weighed 75 when i did this and it wouldn't crack.

ECU-MAN
25-04-2005, 09:52 PM
Ok well that doesnt work with my car. I weighed 75 when i did this and it wouldn't crack.


bounce bounce bounce bounce

SIKCVC
25-04-2005, 09:54 PM
doesn't do anything, the bar is about 4-5 foot long, there would be an enormous amount of torque on it but it wont budge.

ECU-MAN
25-04-2005, 09:55 PM
no shit, when the rattle gun lets me down, this is how I crack em. I guess I got more guts than you, and by that I dont mean im braver :)

it slike 3 to 4 little bounces then the last one with all the body weight, then whamo, shez loose

bennjamin
25-04-2005, 09:57 PM
no shit, when the rattle gun lets me down, this is how I crack em. I guess I got more guts than you, and by that I dont mean im braver :)

John ( and others) - since it is possible to remove the drive shafts from the diff housing WITHOUT removign this 32mm hub nut - this means that it is possible to re-grease up / fix boot without taking off the hub yes ? *sounds alto easier*

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 10:01 PM
If u cant get the hub nut off its most likely seizd up ull have to cut it off with a chisel if u have so much weight on it. Just buy a new one from the wreckers for like 5 -10 bucks

ECU-MAN
25-04-2005, 10:02 PM
yes it is, but to me its the longer, messyer way, I never do hondas like this, although this is the way to do mazda and ford laser. each to there own, my way to me is the quickest.

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 10:09 PM
Also ECU MAN can u clear some things up for me on this pic http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/3IMG_4967-med.jpg by showing me where u hit it to knock off the splines ect, also can u answer these for me?

take note how far the joint goes onto the splines of the shaft. ( measure it What part of the joint are u talking about??


I use a hammer to whack off the joint
What part of the joint are u hitting?? (please show ont the pic)
Thanks

SIKCVC
25-04-2005, 10:24 PM
yeah, thats the way I'd love to do it :P thats the way i TRIED to do it lol... It may have been done up too tight previously. I will probs buy a new nut anyway since i cant lock it on anymore.

ECU-MAN
25-04-2005, 10:28 PM
http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/pics/3IMG_4967-med.jpg


the section Im talking about is in the area I have highlighted above, under the boot, you have to wipe away the grease. look bellow


http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/pics/shaft.bmp


whack on the part of the joint that is connected on to the shaft. the inner race of the joint

tegstar83
25-04-2005, 10:43 PM
So am I wacking towards the wheel hub??
Umm so as long as I dont hit the splines ill be ok then? And I pressume its gonna be a hard wack.
Also Once I wack this out then I have to take the circlip out of the other side to get those bearings off in order to slide the new boot on , yes??

SIKCVC
26-04-2005, 12:01 AM
nah, thats if you did it the way I did it.

tegstar83
26-04-2005, 12:12 AM
Sorry SICKCVC who are u talking to??

ECU-MAN
26-04-2005, 09:54 PM
he is talking to you

no you do not touch the inner CV joint at all. the outer joint has to be out of the hub, and yes, your whacking it towards the hub side of the joint, as if your trying to whack it off the shaft. dont whack on the outer part of the joint. I reuse the circlip in the shaft, replacing it makes it dificult to put the new joint on, but if its thrashed you have no choice but to replace it.

Ill make a video of this one day

tegstar83
28-04-2005, 07:32 PM
Thanks for all the help guys I finally finished getting it all done :)