Suspension?

[hong_ung]

Hiya guys
I've had my car for a while now
and have decided to limit the amount of striaght line speed upgrade and instead concentrate on either chassis reinforcments or suspensions
Would love to do both but MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY...MONEY...

Should I reinforce chassis? If so, what other struts/sway can I add to increase the rigidity of the vehicle?
I've already got front and rear struts...

OR install a good set of coilovers/adjustable shocks with some carefully matched springs...any ideas on this one?

The car is daily driven, i live in the suburbs under Fairfield Shitty Council so road conditions aren't that great...

[wlee2]

how much can you afford ? =P

i would look at full coilovers if you got the dosh!. DMS are awesome.. Tiens are ok.. i personally.. well id go with the DMS but they cost alot.. i think theres some spring and shock comboes that work really well. but i dont know them =P.. but
have a look DMS or TIENs...

[bennjamin]

get a larger rear swaybar , front castor kit and full wheel alignment. Taht shoudl be enoguh to make your car handle great and feel good too :)

[ginganggooly]

get a larger rear swaybar , front castor kit and full wheel alignment. Taht shoudl be enoguh to make your car handle great and feel good too :)

i had a whiteline castor kit, up until one of the high tensile bolt somehow sheared itsself off, i think it may have been to do with the washers that were used to adjust the amount ofcastor.
the type-r comes with a 22mm swaybar, i reckon you'd want to upgrade the front swaybar to 26-27mm if you were going to go ahead with an upgraded rear.

and yes, DMS is the mofo shit. :thumbsup:

[kOncept]

i'd say the standard R bars are IMO pretty good... I'm not a fan of standard suspension (not just on the DC2R, on all cars) my friend has an eibach springs and bilstein shock combo on his dc2 with 17" rims, the car handles very well on the street never tracked it, if you're looking at track work i'd prefer the coilovers (obviously) but on a budget i reckon the eibach/bilstein combo would be good enough :D good luck

[hong_ung]

I'm not going to track the car often
just for some fun
99% road, 1% track
I was thinking koni yellow adj. dampers, and some type of progressive springs, unless i can source a cheap set of second hand coilovers

Also, when i take left turns, my front right side is making creaking noises - whats the deal? Cos i was kinda using this as an excuse to upgrade the sussy...

[EG_2_TEG]

i'm currently running:

ITR front strut brace
Whiteline 20mm rear swaybar
50mm lowered king springs
Koni Yellow shocks
and 17" rims (215 wide)

handling is quite good
normally drive on a fairly soft setting on the shocks otherwise you feel every bump on the road :o

but even on that setting, it handles very well, even in the wet

[CONAN]

I'm not going to track the car often
just for some fun
99% road, 1% track
I was thinking koni yellow adj. dampers, and some type of progressive springs, unless i can source a cheap set of second hand coilovers


what are progressive springs, i hear that term used alot. especially with well known branded springs

[zen]

check this out man ..
http://www.whiteline.com.au/faqsprings.htm#I%20want%20"progressive%20springs",%20 (http://www.whiteline.com.au/faqsprings.htm#I%20want%20%22progressive%20springs %22,%20)

hope it helps

[MrThanh]

what are progressive springs, i hear that term used alot. especially with well known branded springs

http://www.whiteline.com.au/default.asp?page=/faqsprings.htm


This is often the reality of customers requests for progressive springs. Marketing hype has convinced them that progressive springs "are good" but not necessarily why, where or in what way. For those of you that know the answer, now's the time to look elsewhere. If you don't know, or think you know, no one can see you so read on. A progressive spring can be defined simply as one that does NOT have a linear rate. This means that it's rate changes depending on the amount of deflection in a way that can not be plotted via a linear relationship. Typical examples are coil springs in a conical shape, those using variable wire thickness and most commonly, those with irregular gaps between the individual coils. It is also possible and common to see all of the above used in the same design. An example of this is Commodore IRS rear coils.

Progressive spring designs for lowering cars are used to (in order of relevance)



keep the spring trapped (legal requirement)
sell to the customer (this is better just because it is progressive)
easy solution for the designer
duplicating the OE progression (e.g.; conical shape is progressive)
actually is better for the vehicle to have progressive rate (rarely happens)
Note that we specifically mention "lowered" in this simplified explanation. Original equipment manufacturers use progressive designs primarily at standard ride heights (also factory sports version with minimal height change) to allow for some suppleness during initial spring deflection. This allows for a heavier rate to be used once the lighter rate coils go "dead" or bind making them ineffectual. These clever designs are carefully matched to the dampers, swaybars, bushes and chassis design to create a tuned solution.

With lowered performance springs, we are more concerned with increasing the rate while lowering the ride height. Reducing the suspension travel creates its own complications but the last thing we need is a varying increased deflection rate that can not be matched by an appropriate damper or chassis mods to suit. In fact, performance applications are generally best served by a linear rate if possible.

Next time they try to sell you their " you-beaut lowered progressive" springs, ask them if they have some matching "progressive rate" shocks to suit. Also, ask the seller if the rate progression of the spring is designed to match the inherent rate progression of the vehicles chassis? For example, the EA-EL Falcon AND Honda Civic front suspension geometry has spring rate progression as part of its design. In fact, most suspension designs have sort of travel progression that leads to rate progression because the wheel moves in an arc. Adding progression to progression creates all sorts of problems so be wary of some manufacturers claims.

Whiteline says our Whiteline Springs (http://www.whiteline.com.au/springs.htm) are only progressive where and if they need to be.

[edw-R]

As i know, some taiwan coilovers are pretty good quality. The price is $980.

[tegstar83]

What is the castor adjustment??

[Boost]

I wouldnt go more than 22mm sway bars. 26-27mm diameter is too big. Even with reinforcement brackets or what not it will rip right out. Your reinforcement will be stronger than the bolt hole location.. you will find one side of the bracekt will rip the bolt right out. and you will be left with a hole where the bolt you to go.
I would stick to 22mm, 22mm will allow for some flexing.. But if you really want to have 27mm just for the sake of having them then be cautious of how hard ur cornering..One of the two bracket WILL come out... Good luck..

[CRXY01]

I wouldn’t go for 27mm rear sway bar as said above; the risk of damaging your ride on the street is high due to poor road surfaces.
If you’re going to get coil overs I would only suggested quality brands; would steer clear of cheap Taiwan products. As we all know suspension is one of the most important parts of a cars, handling and safety.

[LS Integra]

i took my car to pedders the other day and they did that test thing on my car, wid the paper and the squiggly lines.. hahahaha, they said i need new rear shocks and bushes.. they also sed they would fix the squeak in my suspension.. something about a fulcrum rubbing on something.. i dont know.. i wasnt listening, i was just looking at the price.. hahahaha..

basically they said

new rear shocks and bushes
fix the squeak
and
lower the car 2" all around

they quoted me $1400

am i gettin shafted or is that a decent price?

andddddd

is there anything else you guys would reccommend i get besides what needs fixing??

[Terry]

pedders shop (Springwood) is a joke.........i went there ask the price for fully adjustable sussy for EK/EJ......the guy ask me "a u serious?" i said "Yes" ......then they told me is $1000 each!.........:D .......What the?

[civicboy]

i took my car to pedders the other day and they did that test thing on my car, wid the paper and the squiggly lines.. hahahaha, they said i need new rear shocks and bushes.. they also sed they would fix the squeak in my suspension.. something about a fulcrum rubbing on something.. i dont know.. i wasnt listening, i was just looking at the price.. hahahaha..

basically they said

new rear shocks and bushes
fix the squeak
and
lower the car 2" all around

they quoted me $1400

am i gettin shafted or is that a decent price?

andddddd

is there anything else you guys would reccommend i get besides what needs fixing??thats a rip off! :thumbdwn: for that much u can buy a decent shocks + springs - the squeeking sound could be ur springs/shocks r worn out...it was like mine when my stock sussy & then i bought my self a decent springs & shocks & suspension bushings.

[LS Integra]

where do u guys suggest i go? or should i just buy the parts myself and chuck them in myself?

but keep in mind, i'd prefer 2pay someone to do it, coz i dont trust myself.. lol knowing me i would do it wrong and when im goin 110 on the m4, it breaks and i smash into a pole and die... i would prefer someone else to do it, coz if it breaks, then at least i can get compo :)

[Terry]

kings super low + koni shocks......thats the most common combo for road use here.........where u locate mate? if u from brissy i can hook u up for cheap installation

[Boost]

Pedders has to make money somehow...
when they told u $1400, did u say to them "No bull?":rolleyes:
:D

[LS Integra]

where u locate mate? if u from brissy i can hook u up for cheap installation

im from syd dude.. does the springs come wid bushes? or do i need to buy them separate, coz mine are completely shot.. like cracked and peeling away crazily...

[Ironfist]

Would you need to get a camber kit if you were to get koni yel + king super low?

and how do king super low's compare against eibach prokit/sport and H&R sport as in durability and handling?

[Terry]

be honest i never try eibach prokit/sport and H&R sport but they known are better quality......... kings spring feels a bit hard but bang for your bucks.....and there are so many ppl here using it.....wont be wrong.....

with $1400 u can get the brend new sussy setting.......good luck!:D

[franki]

can i fit lowered king springs to my dc5r without upgrading the shocks cos there pretty good? :honda:

[Terry]

DC5 sussy still not good enough? i think u should go for coilover........lower spring for you just waste money....

[olda]

I'm not going to track the car often
just for some fun
99% road, 1% track
I was thinking koni yellow adj. dampers, and some type of progressive springs, unless i can source a cheap set of second hand coilovers

Also, when i take left turns, my front right side is making creaking noises - whats the deal? Cos i was kinda using this as an excuse to upgrade the sussy...

......creaking noises.............hate to scare you.....................
the car could have been in accident and some spot welds on under chassis or around the strut turret could have failed. (However this could also happen over time, due to the poor spot welding).
When you load up the chassis in the corner, panels rub on each other, producing a creaking noise. From my experience anyhow.....................

[franki]

where can i get a set of coilovers for a dc5r for close to $1500 that are reasonably good, im not needing top of the line as im not circuit racing. just want them for adjustable height mostly. :honda:

[kousoku]

[g] is selling omnipower, they are pretty good. go get some of them franki.