Matell
19-06-2005, 02:55 PM
Well yesterday I installed the DC Header. Let’s just say it was a f***n biatch to remove the original exhaust manifold even after using penetrant oil/spray. The torque specs for installing the nut’s and bolts are 33lb.ft, makes me wonder if Honda Japan used any anti-seize lube when they assembled the exhaust to the engine. Obviously they never envisaged the exhaust manifold being removed in the life of the car.
I used the DC instructions, and DC install review from vtec.net to accomplish the install.
Removing the heat shield. All three bolts can be accessed from the top.
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/6744/img296001sml0eb.jpg
Removing the O2 sensor wasn’t too bad but removing the nuts to the cat was quite hard in such limited confines, but once they were off it was easy to undo the two spring bolts that attach the lower section to the top and remove the bottom of the OEM manifold.
Original Extractor showing spring bolts and and mounting bracket
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/7483/img296102sml2jk.jpg
View inside OEM CAT
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/4833/img296403sml8mu.jpg
4-1 Collector
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/3163/img296704sml2wl.jpg
From then is where the trouble starts. I had to first remove the bracket that secures the end of the top manifold to the engine block so there was enough room to loosen the bottom right bolt that connects the manifold to the head. The bracket bolts were quite firmly locked and took much grunting and cursing until I had them off. Next as hard as I tried I wasn’t able to break the bind of that bottom right bolt. So swearing I began to think this might’ve been a job for a professional exhaust company.
Working from the top with an 18” breaker bar and 14mm socket I had to use all my weight and strength in a controlled manner to loosen the two top nuts, and two bottom bolts that can be accessed from there. The amount of force I had to use felt more like 80-100lb.ft before I could get the smallest of rotation out of them. But eventually after much swearing, grunting and skinned knuckles I had them off. The same went for the bottom right bolt, although it’s harder to get sufficient leverage when under the car.
Original manifold removed at long last. Exhaust gasket to be reused
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/4131/img297005sml4mt.jpg
Exhaust port
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/6581/img297506sml9sq.jpg
Before doing any of this I’d sprayed a light coating of aluminium silver high temperature engine paint over the few scratched and worn areas of the ceramic coat on the DC header. I also wrapped both top and bottom sections in old t-shirts as recommended by the install guides I used.
After wiping off the penetrant spray from the manifold gasket, nut’s, bolts and flange surfaces, I coated all threaded areas of the nuts, bolts, and studs with non-metallic anti-seize compound, and installed the 4-2 section of the new header followed by the 2-1 section. The install really was much easier than the removal.
4-2 section installed
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/7345/img298007sml6xr.jpg
2-1 section installed
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/3841/img298208sml2gs.jpg
O2 Sensor – Completed Install (Wire angle is not as sharp as it appears)
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/6830/img298409sml4zs.jpg
Completed Install
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/5291/img298910sml1wl.jpg
I started the engine up and let it run until the fans kicked in. It immediately started to smoke and stink, and the engine paint I’d used turned brown and smoked. I checked the header to head, 4-2 2-1 flange, and flex pipe to cat joins and none of them leaked. After about 10 mins it stopped smoking, and the engine paint had baked on and was back to being the same colour as the rest of the header.
From the test drive it seems to rev more freely and have a bit more pull. There’s also an audible “hiss” that starts around 2500-3000rpm at more than 20% throttle from the header. I’ve also heard this when driving baboo’s car with the Maxim Works header installed. This is the first aftermarket header I’ve ever had in a car so I gather the hissing is a by-product of having properly tuned runners creating harmonics. No one ever seems to talk about the hissing type noise, and if it is uncommon I’ll have to have a look under the car again, but I don’t think it’s a problem. It’s not too intrusive anyway and only apparent if I’m driving more like a normal person and less like an old lady ;).
All up I’m happy with the end result and will get a dyno run as soon as I can.
I used the DC instructions, and DC install review from vtec.net to accomplish the install.
Removing the heat shield. All three bolts can be accessed from the top.
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/6744/img296001sml0eb.jpg
Removing the O2 sensor wasn’t too bad but removing the nuts to the cat was quite hard in such limited confines, but once they were off it was easy to undo the two spring bolts that attach the lower section to the top and remove the bottom of the OEM manifold.
Original Extractor showing spring bolts and and mounting bracket
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/7483/img296102sml2jk.jpg
View inside OEM CAT
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/4833/img296403sml8mu.jpg
4-1 Collector
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/3163/img296704sml2wl.jpg
From then is where the trouble starts. I had to first remove the bracket that secures the end of the top manifold to the engine block so there was enough room to loosen the bottom right bolt that connects the manifold to the head. The bracket bolts were quite firmly locked and took much grunting and cursing until I had them off. Next as hard as I tried I wasn’t able to break the bind of that bottom right bolt. So swearing I began to think this might’ve been a job for a professional exhaust company.
Working from the top with an 18” breaker bar and 14mm socket I had to use all my weight and strength in a controlled manner to loosen the two top nuts, and two bottom bolts that can be accessed from there. The amount of force I had to use felt more like 80-100lb.ft before I could get the smallest of rotation out of them. But eventually after much swearing, grunting and skinned knuckles I had them off. The same went for the bottom right bolt, although it’s harder to get sufficient leverage when under the car.
Original manifold removed at long last. Exhaust gasket to be reused
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/4131/img297005sml4mt.jpg
Exhaust port
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/6581/img297506sml9sq.jpg
Before doing any of this I’d sprayed a light coating of aluminium silver high temperature engine paint over the few scratched and worn areas of the ceramic coat on the DC header. I also wrapped both top and bottom sections in old t-shirts as recommended by the install guides I used.
After wiping off the penetrant spray from the manifold gasket, nut’s, bolts and flange surfaces, I coated all threaded areas of the nuts, bolts, and studs with non-metallic anti-seize compound, and installed the 4-2 section of the new header followed by the 2-1 section. The install really was much easier than the removal.
4-2 section installed
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/7345/img298007sml6xr.jpg
2-1 section installed
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/3841/img298208sml2gs.jpg
O2 Sensor – Completed Install (Wire angle is not as sharp as it appears)
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/6830/img298409sml4zs.jpg
Completed Install
http://img194.echo.cx/img194/5291/img298910sml1wl.jpg
I started the engine up and let it run until the fans kicked in. It immediately started to smoke and stink, and the engine paint I’d used turned brown and smoked. I checked the header to head, 4-2 2-1 flange, and flex pipe to cat joins and none of them leaked. After about 10 mins it stopped smoking, and the engine paint had baked on and was back to being the same colour as the rest of the header.
From the test drive it seems to rev more freely and have a bit more pull. There’s also an audible “hiss” that starts around 2500-3000rpm at more than 20% throttle from the header. I’ve also heard this when driving baboo’s car with the Maxim Works header installed. This is the first aftermarket header I’ve ever had in a car so I gather the hissing is a by-product of having properly tuned runners creating harmonics. No one ever seems to talk about the hissing type noise, and if it is uncommon I’ll have to have a look under the car again, but I don’t think it’s a problem. It’s not too intrusive anyway and only apparent if I’m driving more like a normal person and less like an old lady ;).
All up I’m happy with the end result and will get a dyno run as soon as I can.