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Eurotony
14-07-2005, 07:56 AM
I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30w fully synthetic oil in the car since new. I'm changing to Castrol formula R 5w-30w from the next service (40k) due to the cost of Mobil 1 (Castrol is $45 for 5 litres, Mobil 1 is $90) Does anyone have any issues with the Castrol product or the Mobil 1 for that matter.

Thanks
Eurotony :)

MIRZ
14-07-2005, 08:54 AM
i m using Castrol Magnatic cost me around $26, though my accord is 10 years old, never ever had any trouble with that.

you can check here for your EURO

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp?Section=1&Make=27&Model=715

HONDA
Accord Euro, 2.4 Litre VTEC Eng. (2003-2005)

CASTROL MAGNATEC
Protection from the moment you turn the key SAE 10W-40, API SL/CF ACEA A3/B3 * Recommended for petrol or diesel cars, 4WDs and light commercials.

CASTROL FORMULA R SYNTHETIC 5W-30
A synthetic 5W-30 viscosity engine oil which enables faster acceleration with excellent engine protection and performance. If offers excellent engine cold start responsiveness and contributes to increased fuel efficiency. Recommended for highly tuned, four cylinder engines and latest technology engines requiring 5W-30 or 10W-30 viscosity. Approved for use by Porsche, VW, Audi and Mercedes-Benz. SAE 5W-30, API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4.

Capacity 4.2* Litres

yfin
14-07-2005, 10:41 AM
I have been using Mobil 1 10w-30w fully synthetic oil in the car since new. I'm changing to Castrol formula R 5w-30w from the next service (40k) due to the cost of Mobil 1 (Castrol is $45 for 5 litres, Mobil 1 is $90) Does anyone have any issues with the Castrol product or the Mobil 1 for that matter.

Thanks
Eurotony :)

No issue save for not being sure it is 100% synthetic.

If you spend $60 you can get the Motul 8100 which is better.

Eurotony
14-07-2005, 10:57 AM
Thanks Euro 6mt
According to the Castrol Website, Formula R 5w-30w is a fully synthetic oil.
Eurotony

baboo
14-07-2005, 11:02 AM
Agree with yFin, Motul is a much better oil.

Eurotony
14-07-2005, 11:20 AM
What viscosity weight does the Motul come in??

baboo
14-07-2005, 11:56 AM
5W40 for the 8100.

aaronng
14-07-2005, 12:58 PM
Thanks Euro 6mt
According to the Castrol Website, Formula R 5w-30w is a fully synthetic oil.
Eurotony
The site says that 5W30 is a "synthetic", but the more expensive 0W-40 it says "full synthetic".

yfin
14-07-2005, 01:25 PM
I stand corrected - it is full syn. Thought I should email these guys to check as I have read on a few forums that it is not 100% syn.

---------

Thank-you for your email.

All the products in the Castrol Formula R Synthetic range are full synthetic. The 5W-30 is based on a Group iii synthetic (hydrocracked), while the 0w-40 and 10w-60 are based on Group iv (PAO).

Should you require any further information please ring the castrol Technical Helpline on 1300 557 998.

Regards

To:CastrolTechnicalEnquiries@castrol.com.au

Eurotony
14-07-2005, 01:34 PM
Thanks for that :D

ant234
14-07-2005, 03:34 PM
whats the difference between the groups?

aaronng
14-07-2005, 05:01 PM
Synthetics = Oils modified and tailored to possess specific properties. The 2 groups are different in their source. Hydrocracked is produced from the petroleum base, while PAO is produced from petroleum gas (which is lighter and purer than petroleum base)

EURO-R
14-07-2005, 08:36 PM
Motul 300V much better than Mobil 1.

aaronng
14-07-2005, 09:01 PM
Motul 300V much better than Mobil 1.
The 5W-30 and 5W-40 is interesting. Where's the cheapest place to buy Motul from in NSW? AutoOne or Autobarn (these are listed on their site)?

coladuna
14-07-2005, 11:27 PM
I just want to know how you all know which oil is better?
Are you just basing your comment on which one you FEEL better in terms of the engine revving more freely?
what do you exactly mean when you say such and such oil is better?
I've just been using Honda FEO since new and I'm thinking of going synthetic too on my 20,000km service to see if there are any benefits.
I can definitely feel the engine revving not as freely compared to when the car was straight out of a fresh oil change.

aaronng
14-07-2005, 11:44 PM
I just want to know how you all know which oil is better?
Are you just basing your comment on which one you FEEL better in terms of the engine revving more freely?
what do you exactly mean when you say such and such oil is better?
I've just been using Honda FEO since new and I'm thinking of going synthetic too on my 20,000km service to see if there are any benefits.
I can definitely feel the engine revving not as freely compared to when the car was straight out of a fresh oil change.
I guess it's from your driving experience. So far I've only used the Honda oil that came with the car, and Magnatec, that the dealer put in after 1000km. I can feel that with Magnatec, the car does not rev as freely eventhough the car was brand new with the Honda FEO.

Eurotony
15-07-2005, 08:36 AM
I have been using full synthetic in my car since the 1k service. The dealer does not reccomend using synthetic but he obviously wants to sell me his oil at a huge mark up. I checked with both Honda & Mobil prior to swapping over & they both said that they had no issue with the change. Have I noticed any significant differences? No not really. The engine does rev very freely & the oil always remains very clean. The fuel consumption around town is what I would expect & on the open road is better than I would expect. I've done over 40k now & the benefits of using synthetic are probably subjective but I feel better knowing that I am using a better oil in the car.
Eurotony
2004 Euro luxury 5auto

V205
15-07-2005, 03:30 PM
Coladuno, how often do you change your oil? Every 5000km?


I just want to know how you all know which oil is better?
Are you just basing your comment on which one you FEEL better in terms of the engine revving more freely?
what do you exactly mean when you say such and such oil is better?
I've just been using Honda FEO since new and I'm thinking of going synthetic too on my 20,000km service to see if there are any benefits.
I can definitely feel the engine revving not as freely compared to when the car was straight out of a fresh oil change.

Eurotony
15-07-2005, 04:01 PM
I have been changing oil at every normal service schedule i.e. every 10k. I have heard that some people when using fully synthetic oil extend thier oil changes to 20k. I'm comfortable leaving the changes at 10k for now.

Eurotony :thumbsup:

V205
15-07-2005, 07:56 PM
It also depends how long it takes you to do that 10k.

If it takes you a year to do 10k. It may be a bit long and dino oil will not rev as well by the late stage.

I believe it's good practice to do an oil change every 6 months, in some cases regardless of km. But using dino oil and doing more start/stop driving myself, I would probably say every 5000km or every 6mths, whichever comes first.




I have been changing oil at every normal service schedule i.e. every 10k. I have heard that some people when using fully synthetic oil extend thier oil changes to 20k. I'm comfortable leaving the changes at 10k for now.

Eurotony :thumbsup:

aaronng
15-07-2005, 08:15 PM
I'm changing to synthetic next, and I'll still stick to the 6 month schedule.

ant234
15-07-2005, 09:00 PM
i'll probably change to synthetic when i reach 10k...

EuroAccord13
15-07-2005, 10:20 PM
Which is better? Hydrocracked or PAO (What does this PAO mean anyway?)

aaronng
15-07-2005, 11:07 PM
Which is better? Hydrocracked or PAO (What does this PAO mean anyway?)
PAO stands for Polyalphaolefins.

Think of it in this way. With hydrocracked, you take a big molecule of petroleum and you break it down to smaller pieces of the size that you want.

With PAO, they take small molecules from petroleum gas and join them with other molecules to for the desired size oil molecule.

Both are good, just different ways to make them. Of course, with PAO, it is more customisable, so you can get oils such as Mobil 1 with 5W-50 while with hydrocracked, you're seeing more of the 5W-30 type. There is no better oil between PAO and hydrocracked, because it is what the car needs that is best. But with PAO, the oil can have a viscosity that is more stable. The example with Mobil1 5W-50, it is viscous at 100 degrees, but when you go down to 0 degrees, the viscosity doesn't increase as much as other oils.

EuroAccord13
15-07-2005, 11:09 PM
Thanks Aaron!

I used to have different oils for Summer and Winter use, but I'm getting lazy now.. I just want one oil for all seasons LOL..

After trying out my Current Castrol Formula R, I might go Motul, if my wallet or GF permits......

V205
16-07-2005, 02:06 AM
I noticed mobil1 10w30 is substantially more expensive than mobil1 5w50.

Are they both PAO?



PAO stands for Polyalphaolefins.

Think of it in this way. With hydrocracked, you take a big molecule of petroleum and you break it down to smaller pieces of the size that you want.

With PAO, they take small molecules from petroleum gas and join them with other molecules to for the desired size oil molecule.

Both are good, just different ways to make them. Of course, with PAO, it is more customisable, so you can get oils such as Mobil 1 with 5W-50 while with hydrocracked, you're seeing more of the 5W-30 type. There is no better oil between PAO and hydrocracked, because it is what the car needs that is best. But with PAO, the oil can have a viscosity that is more stable. The example with Mobil1 5W-50, it is viscous at 100 degrees, but when you go down to 0 degrees, the viscosity doesn't increase as much as other oils.

aaronng
16-07-2005, 01:33 PM
I noticed mobil1 10w30 is substantially more expensive than mobil1 5w50.

Are they both PAO?
I haven't seen Mobil1 10W30 being sold here in Sydney at the usual auto places. As far as I remember from before, full synthetics used to be expensive, until now with Castrol's Formula R 5W-30. So I would hazard a guess that the original full synthetics such as Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra and the others could be PAO, while the newer cheaper full synthetics such as Formula R 5W-30 is hydrocracked.

aaronng
16-07-2005, 01:42 PM
Thanks Aaron!

I used to have different oils for Summer and Winter use, but I'm getting lazy now.. I just want one oil for all seasons LOL..

After trying out my Current Castrol Formula R, I might go Motul, if my wallet or GF permits......
Where can I get Motul from? I just bought a bottle of 5W-30 Formula R to try out (was on offer). But after that, I'll give Motul a spin.

EURO-R
16-07-2005, 02:18 PM
The 5W-30 and 5W-40 is interesting. Where's the cheapest place to buy Motul from in NSW? AutoOne or Autobarn (these are listed on their site)?

i'm not sure where's the cheapest place to buy Motul, i got 4 litres 300V for 75 bucks from Motoquip in Westfield Burwood, they are 2 litres per each, i got some discount from Motoquip.

EuroAccord13
17-07-2005, 03:48 PM
Made a check through a friend, the 300V costs like 20 bucks a litre... does that sound like a right price?

Also the 8100 5W-40 is like 59 bucks for four litres.....

yfin
17-07-2005, 06:23 PM
Made a check through a friend, the 300V costs like 20 bucks a litre... does that sound like a right price?

Also the 8100 5W-40 is like 59 bucks for four litres.....

Nick - $59 is how much I paid for the 8100 - was at a store in perth similar to autobarn. I think that is full price. Not sure where you can get it cheaper - very few places sell the stuff. The 300V is a step up again - $46.99 for 2 litres.

This link below gives you an idea of the RRP prices of Motul products . I am not suggesting this is where you get it from - just give you an idea of full RRP.

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/products/motul/

Perhaps when you are ready to buy try some of these places in the dealer locator

http://www.motul.com.au/dealer_locator/western_au.html

EuroAccord13
17-07-2005, 06:30 PM
Thanks yfin!

If it's 59 bucks for four litres, did you end up buying 2 bottles of it instead?

THANKS!

yfin
17-07-2005, 06:34 PM
Thanks yfin!

If it's 59 bucks for four litres, did you end up buying 2 bottles of it instead?

THANKS!

Sorry - I think I made a typo. The 8100 Excess is 5 litres so you only need 1 bottle.

The size of the package makes the 300V very expensive - as you will need more than 4 litres. That said - I am sure it is better than the 8100.

EuroAccord13
17-07-2005, 06:38 PM
Coolness...

the Euro needs like 4.2-4.3 Litres and I was beginning to wonder how I can make do with one bottle LOL...

So I guess the price for the Oil is pretty much the same in Melbourne...

I was told that if I buy more (duh..... :D) it will be cheaper (Works out to about 13 bucks a litre).. But how long will 20Litres last me LOL!

EURO-R
17-07-2005, 07:07 PM
Just wondering if don' t change oil filter, 4 Litres can be enough?

baboo
19-07-2005, 01:26 PM
How come only 4.2 or 4.3 litres?

I normally use about 5 litres ~5.5 litres.

yfin
19-07-2005, 03:00 PM
How come only 4.2 or 4.3 litres?

I normally use about 5 litres ~5.5 litres.

That doesn't sound right - when my dealer has used my 5 litre bottles I always get the bottle returned with some oil back - at least 1/2 a litre.

EuroAccord13
19-07-2005, 03:14 PM
The car can't use all 5 litres.. Maybe your dealer took kept them :P


I checked the books, it's 4.2 Litres with Oil Filter....

baboo
19-07-2005, 04:52 PM
holy crap where's my 0.8 litre of oil gone to?

I personally saw 5 litre of oil adding through.....strange.

aaronng
19-07-2005, 04:53 PM
holy crap where's my 0.8 litre of oil gone to?

I personally saw 5 litre of oil adding through.....strange.
I'm sure you tightened the filter and drain plug properly?

Matell
19-07-2005, 07:57 PM
holy crap where's my 0.8 litre of oil gone to?

I personally saw 5 litre of oil adding through.....strange.

I had my 40,000km service last Friday, and only got about 200ml of oil back. Previous changes has seen about 0.5-0.8L when they give me my bottle back. [Using Mobil 1 10W30 (Gold Bottle)]

aaronx88
19-07-2005, 09:02 PM
Hi,

Is Motul 4100 any good? My Euro has so far travelled 3000km only and I'm due for service next month. I'm reluctant to switch to full synthetic yet. According to motul website, it is semi-synthetic and this should be better than magnatec that my dealer puts in.

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4stroke/4stroke15.html

By the way, is magnatec 10-40 or 10-30? This is because my dealer state that Magnatec FMX is 10-30 but castrol website states that it is 10-40.

P/S AccordEuro13, Do u want a coupon for 20% discount in Autobahn in Victoria? Could be used to buy Motul oil I hope since they are listed as distributor.

Aaron

euro77
19-07-2005, 09:19 PM
Magnatec is 10w40. your dealer might have confused it with Honda's oil which is 10w30.

Chris_F
19-07-2005, 09:22 PM
matell how do u find that mobil 1 oil?

i'm thinking about changing over to it.

EuroAccord13
19-07-2005, 10:39 PM
P/S AccordEuro13, Do u want a coupon for 20% discount in Autobahn in Victoria? Could be used to buy Motul oil I hope since they are listed as distributor.

Aaron


Mmmm... I didn't know AutoBarn is a reseller for this.... Mmmm, if the 20% discount voucher can be used, I could help you guys that are interested get them (But Please PM me about it)

Absolutely No Group Buy Talk in here!!!:D

Eurotony
20-07-2005, 01:24 PM
I had my 40,000km service last Friday, and only got about 200ml of oil back. Previous changes has seen about 0.5-0.8L when they give me my bottle back. [Using Mobil 1 10W30 (Gold Bottle)]
I also had my 40k service last Friday & had the same, only a little oil back. They tell me it was because they take the rocker covers off to adjust the valve clearances & they manage to drain more oil out than on a standard oil change?? :confused:

V205
20-07-2005, 02:32 PM
From what I've seen, NO honda service centres actually use Honda's FEO 10w30 for their day to day service? They buy big drums of Mobile XHP... Castrol Magnatec..etc and use that for their oil changes.

Think I'll stick with buying the FEO 10w30 and take it to the dealers.

(Note: it was the same when I had my Nissan, they sell bottled 7.5w30 nissan oil at the parts centre but service centre use drums of something else. However, I just bought the Honda FEO 10w30 for them to use on my nissan anyway. Somehow I trust Honda more. :D )

V205
20-07-2005, 02:34 PM
Was it necessary to do the valve clearance at 40,000km? Is it in the service book (even for harsh conditions)?

Did you have valve tapping issue?


I also had my 40k service last Friday & had the same, only a little oil back. They tell me it was because they take the rocker covers off to adjust the valve clearances & they manage to drain more oil out than on a standard oil change?? :confused:

aaronng
20-07-2005, 03:23 PM
Was it necessary to do the valve clearance at 40,000km? Is it in the service book (even for harsh conditions)?

Did you have valve tapping issue?
Yes, valve clearance check is in the service manual.

Matell
20-07-2005, 08:07 PM
matell how do u find that mobil 1 oil?

i'm thinking about changing over to it.

I haven't had any problems with it in the 20000kms+ that I've been running it. I first noticed that the engine sounded a little harsher, but it felt smoother, and built revs more freely than with the semi dino.

I've never had to top up the oil between services and the engine feels almost as good before the service as it does after. I'm thinking of swapping to Motul 8100 at the 50,000km service (if I haven't moved OS by then) but remember baboo saying ages ago it starts to break down after 5000km+, to which Noel on tsxclub has also made a similar comment. It will probably last the 10,000km unlike 300V which is ideally changed every 5000km. My hard and spirited 170km+ drive a day to work and back will soon let me know how 8100 stands up.

I've also recently considered trying Fuchs full synthetic oil, but haven't been able to find too many positive comments about it. Most seem to put it in the same bracket as Castrol.

dundas
20-07-2005, 08:13 PM
what viscosity oil is best for fuel economy.. and also synthetic, semi, fully, non synthetic?

V205
20-07-2005, 08:57 PM
How do you guys know when the oil starts to break down? Lab test ($$$!) ?


I haven't had any problems with it in the 20000kms+ that I've been running it. I first noticed that the engine sounded a little harsher, but it felt smoother, and built revs more freely than with the semi dino.

I've never had to top up the oil between services and the engine feels almost as good before the service as it does after. I'm thinking of swapping to Motul 8100 at the 50,000km service (if I haven't moved OS by then) but remember baboo saying ages ago it starts to break down after 5000km+, to which Noel on tsxclub has also made a similar comment. It will probably last the 10,000km unlike 300V which is ideally changed every 5000km. My hard and spirited 170km+ drive a day to work and back will soon let me know how 8100 stands up.

I've also recently considered trying Fuchs full synthetic oil, but haven't been able to find too many positive comments about it. Most seem to put it in the same bracket as Castrol.

EuroAccord13
20-07-2005, 10:07 PM
what viscosity oil is best for fuel economy.. and also synthetic, semi, fully, non synthetic?

Taken from the Oil Bible;

Fully Synthetic Characteristics
0W-30 Fuel economy savings
0W-40 Enhances engine performance and power
5W-40 Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly

Semi-synthetic Characteristics
5W-30 Better protection
10W-40 Good protection within the first 10 minutes after starting out
15W-40 Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear
Increased oil change intervals - don't need to change it quite so often

Mineral Characteristics
10W-40 Basic protection for a variety of engines
15W-40 Oil needs to be changed more often

Eurotony
21-07-2005, 08:18 AM
Was it necessary to do the valve clearance at 40,000km? Is it in the service book (even for harsh conditions)?

Did you have valve tapping issue?

Ihave had no engine issue's at all. It is part of the 40k service. I have been running Mobil 1 10w 30w since new & as mentioned earlier in the thread cannot say if there is any proven benefits from running synthetic oil. The engine always goes hard & the oil is always clean. So all I can say is so far so good. :wave:

V205
21-07-2005, 08:55 AM
Do you burn any noticable oil between changes?


Ihave had no engine issue's at all. It is part of the 40k service. I have been running Mobil 1 10w 30w since new & as mentioned earlier in the thread cannot say if there is any proven benefits from running synthetic oil. The engine always goes hard & the oil is always clean. So all I can say is so far so good. :wave:

Eurotony
21-07-2005, 09:00 AM
Do you burn any noticable oil between changes?

No none at all. I have been really impressed with the lack of oil consumption & the good fuel consumption I'm getting in return. :thumbsup:

Ronin
21-07-2005, 03:47 PM
Yeap. Totally agree. I'm running the new Mobil 10w-30.. Really Really impressed with good fuel consumption, and virtually no oil consumption. And i Redline it quite often. Oil is still clean, not necessarily black, but a golden brown.

Chris_F
21-07-2005, 07:33 PM
I haven't had any problems with it in the 20000kms+ that I've been running it. I first noticed that the engine sounded a little harsher, but it felt smoother, and built revs more freely than with the semi dino.

thanks.

Just curious to what would be the better option:
use oem honda oil (taking no risks with warranty) but having it changed ever 5000km (it doesn't seem to last the full 10000km with my driving style/conditions)

option two is using mobil 1 ever 10,000km (possibly infringing on the warranty?)

hm, what to do...

aaronx88
21-07-2005, 07:58 PM
Hi,

Did anyone find out from Honda Australia that using any other oil other than Honda FEO will possibly void the warranty? If no one has, I will give them an email tomorrow.

Aaron

yfin
21-07-2005, 07:59 PM
Yeap. Totally agree. I'm running the new Mobil 10w-30.. Really Really impressed with good fuel consumption, and virtually no oil consumption. And i Redline it quite often. Oil is still clean, not necessarily black, but a golden brown.

Funny you mention oil consumption. I have never noticed any oil being used between service - now at 30800kms. I have used synthetic oil since 10,000kms. Despite lots of varied trips and revs - no noticeable consumption on the dip stick at all.

Chris_F = I would relax about using non Honda oil in terms of warranty. As long as it meets or exceeds the Honda specifications it should be fine. I can't see how Honda could claim Mobil or other oil causes damage to the engine if it meets the specifications stated in the manual.

aaronng
21-07-2005, 08:34 PM
Hi,

Did anyone find out from Honda Australia that using any other oil other than Honda FEO will possibly void the warranty? If no one has, I will give them an email tomorrow.

Aaron
Well, the dealer puts in Magnatec for their scheduled service. My car had better be under warranty.

yfin
21-07-2005, 08:39 PM
Well, the dealer puts in Magnatec for their scheduled service. My car had better be under warranty.

Relax dude!

Eurotony
21-07-2005, 08:44 PM
Hi,

Did anyone find out from Honda Australia that using any other oil other than Honda FEO will possibly void the warranty? If no one has, I will give them an email tomorrow.

Aaron

I emailed both Honda & Mobil prior to changing to Mobil 1 & I have a written reply from Honda that provided the oil viscosity is the same or better there will be no issue's with warranty. I made sure that I had it in writting before changing. :thumbsup:

V205
21-07-2005, 09:03 PM
Is the Castrol Synth-R 5w30 ok for 1 year or 10,000km? (which ever comes first?)

Some people do 10,000km change on dino oil... but maybe the engine will last 300,000km instead of 500,000.... which doesn't really make a diff if they sell it around 100,000 to 200,000km?


thanks.

Just curious to what would be the better option:
use oem honda oil (taking no risks with warranty) but having it changed ever 5000km (it doesn't seem to last the full 10000km with my driving style/conditions)

option two is using mobil 1 ever 10,000km (possibly infringing on the warranty?)

hm, what to do...

aaronng
22-07-2005, 12:30 AM
Relax dude!
Hehe, my Castrol Formula R 5W-30 is sitting in my living room. I am so tempted to change it. My next service is in November.. Worth it to change now? Or should I leave the Magnatec in the engine til Nov?

yfin
22-07-2005, 12:34 AM
Hehe, my Castrol Formula R 5W-30 is sitting in my living room. I am so tempted to change it. My next service is in November.. Worth it to change now? Or should I leave the Magnatec in the engine til Nov?

That depends on how many kms you have travelled on the existing oil and with the Euro. It is up to you.

aaronng
22-07-2005, 01:52 AM
Not that much. I did my 6 month service at the end of May with about 7000km, and now I am about to reach 10,000km. I don't like the roughness at higher revs that I get with Magnatec though.

Eurotony
22-07-2005, 08:30 AM
The general rule of thumb with oil changes is 6 months or 10k whichever comes first. There is some thought that using synthetic oil you can double the time frame & km's, but I am happy to do the schedule changes even when using fully synthetic.
There seems to be a general theme running in this thread that when using mineral oil the engine in the Euro tends to run a bit rough at high RPM. I have been using synthetic oil since new & the engine revs out all the time very smoothly.
:wave:

aaronng
22-07-2005, 11:22 AM
The general rule of thumb with oil changes is 6 months or 10k whichever comes first. There is some thought that using synthetic oil you can double the time frame & km's, but I am happy to do the schedule changes even when using fully synthetic.
There seems to be a general theme running in this thread that when using mineral oil the engine in the Euro tends to run a bit rough at high RPM. I have been using synthetic oil since new & the engine revs out all the time very smoothly.
:wave:
It's only the Hondas that have a 6 month /10,000km schedule I think. Holden asks for 12 months / 15000km which I find is too long. Gf's Astra has already failed to start once due to the cylinder flooding with petrol when the car was off. And then the throttle body was gummed.

Yeah, I to will still stick to the 6 month service even with synthetic.

ahcash
22-07-2005, 02:23 PM
I have been using full synthetic in my car since the 1k service. The dealer does not reccomend using synthetic but he obviously wants to sell me his oil at a huge mark up. I checked with both Honda & Mobil prior to swapping over & they both said that they had no issue with the change. Have I noticed any significant differences? No not really. The engine does rev very freely & the oil always remains very clean. The fuel consumption around town is what I would expect & on the open road is better than I would expect. I've done over 40k now & the benefits of using synthetic are probably subjective but I feel better knowing that I am using a better oil in the car.
Eurotony
2004 Euro luxury 5auto

Eurotony, when you said you've checked with Honda, do you mean the dealers or Honda Australia? I've just got a response from Honda Australia and they strongly recommend Honda FEO and they said

"If you encounter a concern with the vehicle due to the use of non genuine products it would not be covered under the New Car Warranty. The details of the Warranty are explained in full on page X of the Owners Service & Warranty Manual. "


WTF !!!! I am getting it clarified..

Eurotony
25-07-2005, 07:41 AM
Eurotony, when you said you've checked with Honda, do you mean the dealers or Honda Australia? I've just got a response from Honda Australia and they strongly recommend Honda FEO and they said

"If you encounter a concern with the vehicle due to the use of non genuine products it would not be covered under the New Car Warranty. The details of the Warranty are explained in full on page X of the Owners Service & Warranty Manual. "


WTF !!!! I am getting it clarified..

I checked with Honda Australia & they said all will be Ok using Synthetic of the same grade

dundas
25-07-2005, 10:10 AM
hmmz, Honda told me they don't recommend blowing so much $$ on oil when it requires to be changed so often :)

Chris_F
25-07-2005, 06:45 PM
I read the euro's servicing manual today for oil change intervals etc...

If your driving it hard/extreme conditions they actually recomend that you change it every 5000km.

I also had a look at when they replace the oil and oil filter. It's 10000km for oil as we all probably know but its 20,000km for the oil filter - we have a family friend that is a mechanic and he says its always better to change the filter over when the oil is changed.

Personally i've noticed the engine is noticably harsher and sluggish even when going beyond 4krpm it doesnt pull as hard as at used to at 3k rpm.

From now on I've decided to go with honda oil changing it and the oil filter every 5k km. It might be overkill but i'm hoping that by changing the oil and filter more reguralry I'll be able to get the car back into better form.

A sound plan?

aaronng
26-07-2005, 12:49 AM
I'm using the regular schedule, changing oil and filter every 10000km. The dealer recommended changing the filter as well, and all my previous cars had the filter changed at the same time the engine oil was changed.

Chris_F
26-07-2005, 01:16 PM
interesting my dealer didnt change the filter at the 10,000km :confused::confused: no wonder the engine has felt progressively worse when revving out since...

Eurotony
26-07-2005, 05:17 PM
If you are having your Euro serviced at a Honda dealer, changing the oil filter is part of the scheduled service & it should have been done. I would be asking why it was not done & get him to rectify the situation now. He would have charged you for changing it because it is part of the service time allowance & the service charge is based on how long the service takes to do. :thumbdwn:

Chris_F
26-07-2005, 11:42 PM
thanks for the heads up Eurotony.

In the service scheduele though (as per the servicing manual) it says oil filter to be changed every 20,000km in normal driving conditions but because i dont like to baby the euro i'm insisting on both being hcanged every 5000km

EuroAccord13
30-07-2005, 12:28 AM
The rule is whenever you are getting an oil change... Change the filter too..

Mr. Technical Director of Spoon also advised that the tranny oil be changed as well to keep the gears in top notch....

Chris_F
30-07-2005, 05:10 PM
yea thats what i thought aswell - i even asked that they changed the oil filter and they were like "nah you dont need to". I guess being a bit younger the service department doesn't take me seriously? Kind of frustrating really.

Next time i'm in their im demanding that they do it.

I wouldn't have done any real damage by leaving the filter unchanged for so long i hope

EuroAccord13
30-07-2005, 05:19 PM
Maybe the new Honda oil filters are meant to last longer thus saving some $$$$ but irregardless, I'll still change it at every oil change, I mean, how much more time can that take since I'm already under the car..

P.S-- For those who do their own intermediate services on their Euro, who's with me to agree that the oil filter location sucks!!!!! :D I hate the way they positioned the filter, oil always spill to the suspension links and shafts.... Grrrrr.... My tip is to wrap them up in some old rags...

petsfact
01-05-2006, 11:55 PM
sorry for bringing up this old thread, i just did my 20k service using mobil 1 10w-30, i noticed my mechanic pour in ALL 5 lt of it into the engine, sounds "weird" as i read somewhere accord euro only take 4.2 - 4.3lt, some even claim they only use 3.5 lt after a long drain.

while mine was only drain for like 10 minutes, and my mechanic say the oil pan he used to collect the oil from the engine has 5lt in it so he put the whole 5lt new oil back to the engine?

checking dipstick it shows just right below max line.

btw what is all those high vtec you guys talking about, i only have my car for like 3 weeks and never rev it over 4k does the high vtec you guys mention kick in like a turbo or some sort of things like that? how do i make it happen? thanks

yfin
02-05-2006, 05:49 AM
petsfact - thanks for posting your question here - bringing back old threads is a good thing! Much better than having the same or similar question asked in many threads. That way the really good threads become a repository of information when people search - like a database.

Re oil - if your oil is on max there is nothing wrong.

As for your question about vtec - you need to rev the car beyond 6000rpm before the hicam kicks in. It is very smooth - nothing like a turbo. Give it a go - just make sure you clutch in before 7300rpm.

Omotesando
03-05-2006, 12:48 AM
sorry for bringing up this old thread, i just did my 20k service using mobil 1 10w-30, i noticed my mechanic pour in ALL 5 lt of it into the engine, sounds "weird" as i read somewhere accord euro only take 4.2 - 4.3lt, some even claim they only use 3.5 lt after a long drain.

while mine was only drain for like 10 minutes, and my mechanic say the oil pan he used to collect the oil from the engine has 5lt in it so he put the whole 5lt new oil back to the engine?

checking dipstick it shows just right below max line.

btw what is all those high vtec you guys talking about, i only have my car for like 3 weeks and never rev it over 4k does the high vtec you guys mention kick in like a turbo or some sort of things like that? how do i make it happen? thanks


According to your mechanics excuse - the next time he drains it out its going to be 5L again and so he'll just put in another 5L! :eek:

Problably suggest re-checking the oil level again especially during the morning before you start the car - when all the oil is at one plce. If it is over-the-line you got to let some of it out again, otherwise you'll create too much oil pressure in the engine. If its still under the line then its fine!


The High Vtec on the Euro kicks in around 6000rpm. At around 5500-6000rpm there is a power dip, but once it goes over 6000rpm there is a slight kick in the back kind of like a turbo except it doesn't last as long.

Most Turbo equipped cars on the market like the Golf GTi/Audi A3 or Astra Turbo are in fact now smoother than the Euro's VTEC kick in. :D

EuroDude
03-05-2006, 09:34 AM
Only 4000rpm :eek: Give the car a kick up to 7200rpm and you'll notice an aggressive rush at 6000rpm. Its fine to do it occasionally :)


If the oil filter was changed, then the engine would need a bit more oil. But 5L seems a bit too much. Maybe there was some left in the container?

petsfact
03-05-2006, 09:06 PM
by the way, after driving with this mobil 1 10w-30 for few days i realized there is more tapping noise from the engine?

but it seems to go away after 10 minutes highway drive?

aaronng
03-05-2006, 09:57 PM
by the way, after driving with this mobil 1 10w-30 for few days i realized there is more tapping noise from the engine?

but it seems to go away after 10 minutes highway drive?
Check your oil level after leaving overnight. Is it still between minimum and maximum? The injectors on the Euro is noisy. It's also noisier than the K24A1 in the CRV.

Omotesando
04-05-2006, 12:13 AM
by the way, after driving with this mobil 1 10w-30 for few days i realized there is more tapping noise from the engine?

but it seems to go away after 10 minutes highway drive?

Regarding the noises - I think that is a character of Mobil 1 10W-30 on a lot of cars. Have had that experience. If you use that on the LS1 Commodores they also like to consume a lot of oil as well for some unknown reason.

I think I'll give ELF a try next time in the Euro. :o

Chris_F
04-05-2006, 08:44 AM
The endless brand synthetic oil I'm currently using is 10w-40 and I've noticed a similar thing at lower operating temperatures. Thicker oils work best at slightly higher temperatures and offer better protection. I drive my car pretty hard and plan on tracking so i thought the extra protection may be worth it.

EuroAccord13
04-05-2006, 02:53 PM
Anyone here tried thicker oil before, i.e 15W for their Euros?

exISeuro
04-05-2006, 03:17 PM
Regarding the noises - I think that is a character of Mobil 1 10W-30 on a lot of cars.
I think I'll give ELF a try next time in the Euro. :o
I agree with you here, My IS200 became noticably louder with Mobil (forget the grade, the gold bottle).

I advise against ELF. I currently have ELF 10-50 in my euro, and let me say, the car sounds awful. Everyone has commented on the noise @ idle from outside the car.
I will be going back to Motul/Castrol.

MiSloVic
04-05-2006, 04:14 PM
I agree with you here, My IS200 became noticably louder with Mobil (forget the grade, the gold bottle).

I advise against ELF. I currently have ELF 10-50 in my euro, and let me say, the car sounds awful. Everyone has commented on the noise @ idle from outside the car.
I will be going back to Motul/Castrol.

my ES civic drinks mobil 1 Gold.. 1ltr every 2000+km

not engine problem, 'cos after changing to other oil, problem solved.

Omotesando
13-05-2006, 12:52 AM
Yep. Mobil 1 likes to be consumed on some engines for some unknown reason. I didn't had that problem, but I had the tapping noise using 10W-30. Gone with 0W-40 however.

As with exISeuro, I think u shouldn't be using ELF 10W-50 in your euro!

That is way too thick at normal operating temperatures. Don't blame the oil in this instance. Its the wrong grade altogether.

U should be using the 10W-30 or 5W-30 type.

ELF has really good reputation and lab reports (with all oils nearly same viscosity grade) shows it works well. Actually so does Mobil 1 but it just has some noise issues...

aaronng
13-05-2006, 01:12 AM
Interesting. I just went from 0w-40 to 10w-30 as well and I observed the same thing. Louder engine noise (tapping) with the 10w-30. But it is smoother now with 10w-30.

exISeuro:
Most important with engine oils is to use the correct 10w-30 viscosity or 1 step up (1 step down should work too). 2 steps with the ELF 10w-50 is too much in my opinion. An oil that is too thick can't provide a thick enough layer between the piston rings and wall.

Chris_F
13-05-2006, 12:26 PM
i guess 10w 40 would be ok though?

EuroDude
13-05-2006, 12:41 PM
Yeah its only 10 difference, it should be fine.

datzlr
13-05-2006, 02:52 PM
elf fully synthetic is good ?

Omotesando
13-05-2006, 04:20 PM
[QUOTE=aaronng]Interesting. I just went from 0w-40 to 10w-30 as well and I observed the same thing. Louder engine noise (tapping) with the 10w-30. But it is smoother now with 10w-30.
QUOTE]


Are u still using Castrol or changed to another brand in the 10W-30 grade?
Why or how do u describe (?? :) ) the 10W-30 being smoother than 0W-40 in the Euro Accord? I am about to try 0W-40 so some feedback would be good!


With the Mobil 1 10W-30 and tapping noise problem, I'm not sure if its because it doesn't produce enough of a protective film or something? But my idea shouldn't make sense either, because Mobil 1 is suppose to be very protective for moving parts and oil analysis shows this to be the case too. So really have no idea. But in certain cars like I said, the Mobil oil gets CONSUMED easily..



As for other person - why do u insist on using 10W-40 (even from 10W-50)? Honda's are suppose to have many internal engine parts and also having revvy engines, and as such u should use the recommended oil range. In fact, it is probably safer to go 'thinner at normal operating temperature oils' such as 5W-30 or 0W-40 as it protects the engine parts when its revving/moving fast. Also gets more power.

People always recommend Honda's not to use too thick an oil. It makes sense scientifically to me (although I haven't verified its truth). BUT.... without having a way to verify either way, the oil grade that the manufacturer recommends and the dealer uses is probably the best - 10W-30. Even if you go on the track... Just change it afterwards.:)

Chris_F
13-05-2006, 05:34 PM
i was recommended to go to the 10w40 grade for track use and thought I'd give it a go for the added protection.

Next time round I think I'll go with something a bit thinner.

petsfact
13-05-2006, 06:00 PM
as far as i know, after consulting few car maniac friends, mobil 1 seems to give some tapping noise but if go with the cheaper option like castrol or even some motul should solve the problem....

Still mobil 1 recognized as high quality engine oil in term of protection. I think i will just stick with it for 10k (cost 80 bucks!)

EuroDude
13-05-2006, 06:14 PM
80 bucks? :eek: Ive seen it like $15 cheaper at K-Mart :thumbsup:

aaronng
13-05-2006, 06:22 PM
Are u still using Castrol or changed to another brand in the 10W-30 grade?
Why or how do u describe (?? :) ) the 10W-30 being smoother than 0W-40 in the Euro Accord? I am about to try 0W-40 so some feedback would be good!
I'm still using Castrol Formula R. With the 0w-40, it was nice. I previously had Magnatec 10w-40 in it and when I switched to Formula R, it was a noticeable change. Engine was quieter too (of course, not as quiet as a CRV).

Then, I recently had my 1.5 year service and put in 5w-30 instead. The engine sounds louder now. The sound is coming from either the head or the injector area. But it is louder. It is smoother than 0w-40. The engine also revs harder at 5000-7000rpm.

I had used the 0w-40 for the track. And wow, after the track day, my oil level was still the same, and the colour was the same too, dark brown which turns to a dark golden colour as the oil layer thins out on the dip stick.



With the Mobil 1 10W-30 and tapping noise problem, I'm not sure if its because it doesn't produce enough of a protective film or something? But my idea shouldn't make sense either, because Mobil 1 is suppose to be very protective for moving parts and oil analysis shows this to be the case too. So really have no idea. But in certain cars like I said, the Mobil oil gets CONSUMED easily..
I'll keep this thread updated with my 5w-30 oil consumption. I think though that cars with larger gaps between the piston ring and cylinder require a thicker oil. For example, WRX uses 50 or 60 oil

aaronng
13-05-2006, 06:23 PM
as far as i know, after consulting few car maniac friends, mobil 1 seems to give some tapping noise but if go with the cheaper option like castrol or even some motul should solve the problem....

Still mobil 1 recognized as high quality engine oil in term of protection. I think i will just stick with it for 10k (cost 80 bucks!)
The oil brand doesn't matter as much as the viscosity of the oil. If you change your oil every 6 months, then even dino oil is good enough.

Omotesando
13-05-2006, 06:30 PM
i was recommended to go to the 10w40 grade for track use and thought I'd give it a go for the added protection.

Next time round I think I'll go with something a bit thinner.

Sorry I didn't know u posted that, I got confused while skip-reading! I thought it was from the person who posted about 10W-50 for some reason whilst reading up other things at same time. U can disregard end part of my previous post!

Anyway, if you go on track - 10W-40 is probably recommended by people as it has better, thicker protection film. Though without Oil Pressure and Oil Temp measurement, also depending on how hard u drive on the track, etc, its hard to say whether 10W-30 or 10W-40 is better, even if ppl commonly suggest thicker viscosity on the track? I mean oil is for lubrication. As long as no metals are touching then the thinnest, more lubed alternative should be best. That's why thinner oil has better fuel economy and more power, less oil pressure. What I'm worried about is, on a Honda engine whether the thicker oil can run around to the smaller parts fast enough to protect them too, at high RPM?

If I go on track - I'll take away the number plate to make sure there is enough cooling to the radiator.

Chris_F
14-05-2006, 01:49 AM
Sorry I didn't know u posted that, I got confused while skip-reading! I thought it was from the person who posted about 10W-50 for some reason whilst reading up other things at same time. U can disregard end part of my previous post!

Anyway, if you go on track - 10W-40 is probably recommended by people as it has better, thicker protection film. Though without Oil Pressure and Oil Temp measurement, also depending on how hard u drive on the track, etc, its hard to say whether 10W-30 or 10W-40 is better, even if ppl commonly suggest thicker viscosity on the track? I mean oil is for lubrication. As long as no metals are touching then the thinnest, more lubed alternative should be best. That's why thinner oil has better fuel economy and more power, less oil pressure. What I'm worried about is, on a Honda engine whether the thicker oil can run around to the smaller parts fast enough to protect them too, at high RPM?

If I go on track - I'll take away the number plate to make sure there is enough cooling to the radiator.

ok no worries :p

I've heard from people running K-series engines on the track (another accord euro and a dc5r) and they never had any problems running this thicker grade of oil. If anything it'd be more suitable for summer use. It's interesting to note that honda recommends 5w30 for Australia which is the grade it also reccomends in countries with a much colder climate. If your out on the track or driving hard on a hot day a slightly thicker oil might be worth it? But like you said, we need to see some data before we know the best grade to run.

tanalasta
25-03-2007, 12:09 AM
Reviving an old thread but what's the 'colour' of brand new Mobil 1 gold-bottle 10-30W?

I just want to make sure the dealer didn't switch my bottle for Honda FEO or Shell Helix so if you know the colour of that'll be great. I know my old Motul was a slightly nice light shade of orange when new.

tron07
25-05-2007, 03:45 PM
My 10k service is up soon... now deciding which oil to get.... I think synthetic 10-30W should do...

Read the first few page, then decided to jump to the last few page, but still not decided yet.... any recommendation?

Plan to change oil every 10k and roughly every 6-7 months time.

Adagio
25-05-2007, 04:34 PM
I have changed over to Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30. I have detected a slight reduction in fuel consumption on the same route and distance, highway cruising at 116kmh. I am now getting down to 7.19L/100 as opposed to 7.9 L/100 when I was using Penrite Sin a thicker oil.
I think we would have to keep our cars for at least 300,000kms to notice any difference between a good 10/30 mineral oil as opposed to a good synthetic. This is just my perception based on our Peugeot which has done 283,000kms on synthetic oil and is showing less wear problems than with other Peugeot owners of the same model and vintage using a good mineral oil.

aaronng
25-05-2007, 05:34 PM
My 10k service is up soon... now deciding which oil to get.... I think synthetic 10-30W should do...

Read the first few page, then decided to jump to the last few page, but still not decided yet.... any recommendation?

Plan to change oil every 10k and roughly every 6-7 months time.

For cheap, not many oils beat Castrol Edge 5w-30 ($50). Good if you are changing every 6 months. If you are feeling rich, you can go for the Edge 0w-40 or the Motul 8100 10w-40 (both around $65-70)

tanalasta
25-05-2007, 05:54 PM
Motul 8100 or Mobil-1 Gold 10-30W

I've used both. Personally prefer the Mobil 1.

tony1234
25-05-2007, 05:54 PM
Yeah i use Castrol edge 5w30(i get it for $44)i change it every 5k.i do it myself between 10k services.

euro77
25-05-2007, 06:54 PM
I used to use Motul Chrono 300V, very good oil! But expensive :D

aaronng
25-05-2007, 06:59 PM
I used to use Motul Chrono 300V, very good oil! But expensive :D

Wahhh overkill for a street-driven Euro.

BusterSonic12
25-05-2007, 10:02 PM
Wahhh overkill for a street-driven Euro.

is that the best or something?? how much are those for a bottle?

aaronng
25-05-2007, 11:35 PM
is that the best or something?? how much are those for a bottle?

Yeah, it's pretty much the best for a street engine. It's an ester-based oil, a step above the full synthetic of Mobil1, Castrol Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100 and Shell Helix Ultra. it's $95-100 for 4L. You need 4.5L

BusterSonic12
25-05-2007, 11:57 PM
Yeah, it's pretty much the best for a street engine. It's an ester-based oil, a step above the full synthetic of Mobil1, Castrol Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100 and Shell Helix Ultra. it's $95-100 for 4L. You need 4.5L

so 2 bottles to drain and stuff? sweet :p but 2 bottles, bit pricey for just engine oil

tony1234
26-05-2007, 09:11 AM
so 2 bottles to drain and stuff? sweet :p but 2 bottles, bit pricey for just engine oil
At that price you'd only use that oil for a turbo engined car and even then you'd leave it in for 10k.

aaronng
26-05-2007, 02:19 PM
so 2 bottles to drain and stuff? sweet :p but 2 bottles, bit pricey for just engine oil

It's always better to change your oil often than to use an expensive oil and change after a longer interval. So unless your engine has very high compression and you're running at close to 10,000rpm, you're better off getting Castrol Edge 5w-30 for $45 and changing twice as often.

euro77
26-05-2007, 05:36 PM
Wahhh overkill for a street-driven Euro.

Correction, it's been driven on track :P

aaronng
26-05-2007, 05:55 PM
Correction, it's been driven on track :P

Street driven means normal car laa

A track Euro/TSX looks like this:

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3061/010507kfr8000011bu8.jpg

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/9597/imoto19qi.jpg

euro77
26-05-2007, 10:58 PM
Still, you would want that extra peace of mind if you track your car. You know, the oil goes really black just after one track day.

Omotesando
26-05-2007, 11:17 PM
Still, you would want that extra peace of mind if you track your car. You know, the oil goes really black just after one track day.

You probably only notice it because you changed the oil again after going to the track?:D It kind of goes dark pretty easily even if driven normally. Used to worry me that only after one day of driving its darkened (even before the oil's fully run in) but now I think its normal.

Anyway for the price of Motul Chrono 300V, I think I might consider Redline Oils. Not sure which is better. I've used both, much of the same really!

Its overkill. Any synthetic oils no matter how good the base is, seems to start running a bit rougher after around 7000-8000kms for me. Like AARONNG said I'll rather change it more often but using a slightly cheaper one! Even if its mineral oil!

aaronng
27-05-2007, 12:58 AM
Still, you would want that extra peace of mind if you track your car. You know, the oil goes really black just after one track day.

You're meant to make sure your oil is adequate before track day and then change again after track day. Black oil is good. It means your oil is working to clean the carbon deposits after running hard at full throttle, which is usually rich on a stock car.

aaronng
27-05-2007, 01:05 AM
In my opinion, good oils don't let you run your oil for longer but let you run your oil under heavier stress. So 300V is good in that it can withstand a lot more stress than a hydrocracked synthetic like Castrol Edge 5w-30. But I wouldn't increase the oil change intervals just because I was using 300V.

At least Euro77 knew that his engine oil was doing its job during his track day. :thumbsup:

tron07
28-05-2007, 09:09 AM
From the Castrol & Shell website, the recomended oil for Accord 2.4 2003 onwards is



Castrol's best oil for your vehicle EDGE 0W-30 (v)
Alternative recommendation MAGNATEC 10W-40 A3/B3 (v)


SHELL HELIX PLUS LB 10W-30 or SHELL HELIX PLUS ECO 10

Adagio
28-05-2007, 10:04 AM
Personally I think for the average Euro owner "NOT" tracking their car the Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 will give ample protection especially in hi temp situations. My Euro generally runs in ideal conditions - modest temps, no traffic congestion, open highways and the revs usually around 2.500 to 3000. If I was looking for a used car I would always check out a country car first, they get a much easier life than their city cousins.

tron07
28-05-2007, 12:50 PM
What about the normal honda oils from the SC???

aaronng
28-05-2007, 02:38 PM
What about the normal honda oils from the SC???

...SC?

tony1234
28-05-2007, 05:43 PM
From the Castrol & Shell website, the recomended oil for Accord 2.4 2003 onwards is
Castrol don't have a 0W30 do they.I thought they only have 5W30 or 0W40(Edge)????

tron07
29-05-2007, 12:24 PM
SC = service center...

The site is either a US or UK site.... so they could have a 0-30

tanalasta
29-05-2007, 12:28 PM
Normal FEO oil is semi-synthetic and should be changed every 5000km.

Cost of using dino or 5000km oil change intervals over a year.
$40 x 2 (oil) + cost of intermediate oil change and 'minor service' - $100.

Cost of using fully synthetic oil (e.g. Mobil 1 Gold) $80 which is the same as two bottles of cheaper oil. And you don't have to pay for a 5000km oil change as the interval becomes the routine 10000km / 6 month service.

That's why I don't use Shell Helix etc...

I see no problems with changing at 10000km rather than more frequently if you're using a good fully synthetic or better yet - ester oil. Motul 300V is a bit excessive unless you're a doing track work but there are plenty of cheaper and really good oils around.

aaronng
29-05-2007, 01:42 PM
SC = service center...

The site is either a US or UK site.... so they could have a 0-30

You mean the dealer or those places like Ultratune/Autobarn?

aaronng
29-05-2007, 01:43 PM
Normal FEO oil is semi-synthetic and should be changed every 5000km.

FEO is mineral oil. And it can last 10,000km if you don't fang hard every day (i.e. drive like the other 90% of the population :)).

tron07
29-05-2007, 02:13 PM
You mean the dealer or those places like Ultratune/Autobarn?


SC = honda service center or honda dealer.....

Site mention is eiterh Shell or Castrol web site, not Ultratune/autobarn.... you can choose the make and model of the car and it will show you the recommended oils and coolant.

aaronng
29-05-2007, 03:47 PM
SC = honda service center or honda dealer.....

Site mention is eiterh Shell or Castrol web site, not Ultratune/autobarn.... you can choose the make and model of the car and it will show you the recommended oils and coolant.

Honda dealer will use what they usually use. Most dealers buy Castrol Magnatec in drums and use that in the Hondas.

ALN
29-05-2007, 04:09 PM
What's the best trans MT oil other than honda one ? I heard some of the trans oils can actually damage the syncros.

aaronng
29-05-2007, 04:14 PM
What's the best trans MT oil other than honda one ? I heard some of the trans oils can actually damage the syncros.

Best is Honda MTF-III, only found in Japan. USA gets MTF-II, I'm not sure what we get as the AUDM bottle justs says Manual Transmission Fluid.

petsfact
30-06-2007, 05:12 PM
i thought someone is going to update us his use of 5w-30....... :P

Drew
30-06-2007, 05:29 PM
Honda used 10w30 before there was Honda MTF if thats what you're talking about?

petsfact
30-06-2007, 05:45 PM
I'll keep this thread updated with my 5w-30 oil consumption. I think though that cars with larger gaps between the piston ring and cylinder require a thicker oil. For example, WRX uses 50 or 60 oil



:wave:

aaronng
30-06-2007, 06:08 PM
:wave:

LOL, it's been a while yeah? Well, from the day I put in Castrol Edge 5w-30 to the end of 6 months where I switched over to 8100 5w-40, there was no change in the oil level. :)

Oil consumption of the Euro depends more on how you take care of your car when it comes to the regular viscosities of 0w-30 to 10w-40. My car gets 30 seconds of idle time when started in the morning and I drive it to a max of 3000rpm with very little throttle until twice the time required for the coolant temperature to reache 80ºC.

aaronng
30-06-2007, 06:08 PM
Honda used 10w30 before there was Honda MTF if thats what you're talking about?

It's been a long long while since 10w-30 was used as MTF here.

petsfact
30-06-2007, 06:13 PM
It's been a long long while since 10w-30 was used as MTF here.

so do you find castrol or motul 8100 better?

aaronng
30-06-2007, 06:40 PM
so do you find castrol or motul 8100 better?

Same on the Euro.
But on the Astra, the Motul is quieter.

take_no_prisoners
30-06-2007, 10:39 PM
What's the best engine oil "bang for your buck" wise?

tony1234
30-06-2007, 10:45 PM
What's the best engine oil "bang for your buck" wise?
Castrol Edge 5W30.

take_no_prisoners
30-06-2007, 11:40 PM
Castrol Edge 5W30.

If I bring some with me to my next service, how much (volume wise) should I be looking at bringing?

aaronng
01-07-2007, 01:21 AM
If I bring some with me to my next service, how much (volume wise) should I be looking at bringing?

Bring a 5L bottle, but they will use 4.2L. So you can ask them for the excess to be returned to you for topping up.

tony1234
01-07-2007, 12:45 PM
Bring a 5L bottle, but they will use 4.2L. So you can ask them for the excess to be returned to you for topping up.
Mine seems to take approx.4.7ltrs inc.filter replacement.

aaronng
01-07-2007, 03:03 PM
Mine seems to take approx.4.7ltrs inc.filter replacement.

Maybe your dealer leaves the car for a longer time to allow more oil to drain out.

tony1234
01-07-2007, 07:53 PM
Maybe your dealer leaves the car for a longer time to allow more oil to drain out.
Maybe.Oil level on dipstick 1 day after 20k service was approx.5mm over full mark.Is this too much?did they overfill?:confused:

petsfact
01-07-2007, 08:08 PM
mine is 1.5cm above full mark! i win!

tony1234
01-07-2007, 08:33 PM
mine is 1.5cm above full mark! i win!
This is a competition that i DON'T want to win.1.5 cm over.That's too much.

aaronng
01-07-2007, 10:20 PM
Maybe.Oil level on dipstick 1 day after 20k service was approx.5mm over full mark.Is this too much?did they overfill?:confused:

You can go up to about 10mm. I prefer to have 5mm over the max because it helps keep the oil pickup supplied with oil when cornering hard. I suspect that the engine can take about 5L without reaching the splash shield.

andyn
17-05-2011, 05:48 PM
hrmm... i was given amsoil signature series 0w-30 is this too thin for the euro? i jst changed the oil today... and after starting/turning off... sorta noticed a dark line running in the middle of the camshaft lobe (looked thru the oil filler hole) ... is it scored? its a 2006 with 73000kms

Fredoops
17-05-2011, 08:45 PM
hrmm... i was given amsoil signature series 0w-30 is this too thin for the euro? i jst changed the oil today... and after starting/turning off... sorta noticed a dark line running in the middle of the camshaft lobe (looked thru the oil filler hole) ... is it scored? its a 2006 with 73000kms

0w-30 is like.... perfect... I always wanted to get 0w-30 for my euro but can't justify the price, it's same as 5w-30 but a better flowing at cold, normally people run 5w30 in the euro here, in the USA Acura/Honda dealers are know to use 5w-20, which is even thinner.

aaronng
18-05-2011, 12:48 AM
hrmm... i was given amsoil signature series 0w-30 is this too thin for the euro? i jst changed the oil today... and after starting/turning off... sorta noticed a dark line running in the middle of the camshaft lobe (looked thru the oil filler hole) ... is it scored? its a 2006 with 73000kms

0w-30 is fine. It has the same viscosity as 5w-30 as mentioned by Fredoops.

andyn
18-05-2011, 12:52 AM
ahk ty ty guys =D

marquee
25-05-2011, 12:20 AM
about 2 weeks ago i went to the dealer to buy an oil filter. I saw they stocked full synthetic oil i think its 5-35.

Instantly i found it amazing im not sure what the difference is but it just felt more responsive.

The cost was 75 for oil filter and 5l of the oil however did get trade discount. Should give it a shot.

Honda dealers just use semi-synthetic

Fredoops
25-05-2011, 08:21 AM
about 2 weeks ago i went to the dealer to buy an oil filter. I saw they stocked full synthetic oil i think its 5-35.

Instantly i found it amazing im not sure what the difference is but it just felt more responsive.

The cost was 75 for oil filter and 5l of the oil however did get trade discount. Should give it a shot.

Honda dealers just use semi-synthetic

You've brought "Honda feo ultra", it's made by caltex, it's discussed in detail in the news sub forum. The general consensus is that it's not cheap for what you get. Having said that, considering the crap most Honda dealers use, any full syn oil will feel amazing in comparison.

marquee
25-05-2011, 09:41 AM
From what i got out of just reading (cheers for pointing me in the right direction) is that it is manufactured by caltex with hondas specs. Also after reading another thread on it the general view is if you pik it up cheap for about 55 its worth it which is what i picked it up for.

And im happy with it so ill be buying it again but wont be buying the stupid oil filter from there 15 for an oil filter can go stick it

Fredoops
15-07-2011, 10:42 PM
**MY SIX MONTH UPDATE/Mini review***

http://www.mobil.ca/Shared-Images-LCW/article_150x150_ep-filter_amer.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41nOARRfmFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Been running Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil and Mobil 1 EP filter for a full 6 month now.

Car still runs like charm, got a bit worried a month or so ago saying the oil is a bit dark, but since it's still thin and when car warmed up it's gone light in colour again, I'm not worried anymore.

Been reading online about the Mobil 1 EP. The oil AND filter is good for up to 15000 Miles / 24000 KM's. However since the car hasn't been used very much recently (only done 4000 km since service in January). I've decided to not do a 6 monthly oil change. And leave the oil change to Late this year/Early next year, or a full 10000km-ish.

I know I can probably push 15000km on this oil from what I've read on other forums. But since this is the first full syn oil change for the car's I'd expect a lot of detox'in going on in the engine with the addictive in the M1 EP... Cleaning out the crap the Honda dealers' been using for the last 7 odd years. I'll do a full oil/filter change at 10000KM and flush everything clean. I'll do a oil analysis When I do the oil change.


Next Oil to try: US-Spec Mobil 1 0w-40 :)... full 10k drain interval


PS: I've noticed something lately. I've checked out Castrol website and their Castrol Edge Sport advertisements/marketing materials. There's no mention of any addictive packages apart from "Low-Chlorine"... In that case... aren't we just buying a bottle of plain Group 3 hydro-cracked base oil? At 50 odd dollars a bottle.... Ain't that some food for thought.

Irving
16-07-2011, 09:04 PM
I had a Nissan 200SX (turbo) for 13 years from new. After warranty, the oil and filter was changed once a year with Mobil 1 5W-30.
I phoned up Mobil and spoke to one of their engineers at the time, who confirmed that I would be throwing money away if I changed the oil more frequently (unless the car war subjected to heavy usage etc).

My Nissan never missed a beat. No oil leaks, no visible oil consumption, no top ups required, no ill effects what so ever!!!
The engine was like new after 150K I also used fully Synthetic oil in the Gearbox and Diff.

Now I am using Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP and change the oil and filter once a year on the Euro. There is a definite improvement in performance (feels smoother and quieter) over the Honda/Castrol Edge the dealer used to put in.

EuroZed
20-07-2011, 01:41 PM
topone put this in my car and i love the car since, felt so much more responsiveness little more sound from exhuast and power increase
http://www.valvoline.com.au/pdf/DuraBlend%20Synthetic%20Blend%20Motor%20Oils.pdf
(10-40 as per honda spec)

s-ichigo
20-07-2011, 03:03 PM
facelift CU2s use 0W20 and most new hondas do aswell, it's probably one of the changes honda made to get better mileages

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/files/pitboard/Diagrams/tech_diagrams_020oilappsH.jpg

Fredoops
20-07-2011, 03:14 PM
Nah the USA had been using 0w20 for ages, it'll probably increase engine wear tho.

TMW
20-07-2011, 05:02 PM
Where can i buy Motul 8100 oil?
Does anyone the distributor for Motul oil in Sydney area?
Thanks.

Fredoops
20-07-2011, 06:17 PM
http://www.europeanautotech.com.au/products/volkswagen/golf-v-r32/198-motul-engine-oil

It's like $120 for 5Ltr... Ouch, but it is group V base oil.

In the same price range you can also look at Redline and Amoil.

But if you do 10000km drain interval and don't race often... I can't see how the cost can be justified... Since it cost twice as much as mobil 1.

Fredoops
11-10-2011, 05:08 PM
*UPDATE*

Just replaced the Oil in my euro again, I did a flush this time using Wynn's Engine flush.

Mobil 1 EP 0w-30 is now out.

Mobil 1 0w-40 European formula is in.

the oil that got flushed out is like.... black, pitch black. just as I figured, the full-syn oil and the flushing fluid cleared everything out. Detox yo!


Anyway, about the 0w-40.
- idles slightly smoother, quieter
- it's hard to tell the oil level because the thing is so clear
- it not as responsive as the Mobil 1 EP 5w-30, but still beats any dino out there.
- car warms up slightly quicker
- engine temp reduced slightly

Having said that, it could all be because of all the gunk had been cleaned out.

Type R Positive
11-10-2011, 08:09 PM
Weren't you going on about how it's the bees knees, and lasts forever?
Nothing beats regular changes...

buddah51au
11-10-2011, 08:13 PM
Weren't you going on about how it's the bees knees, and lasts forever?
Nothing beats regular changes...

I totally agree, regular oil changes = preventative maintanance

Fredoops
11-10-2011, 08:16 PM
Weren't you going on about how it's the bees knees, and lasts forever?
Nothing beats regular changes...

It did last a whole year... and I did mention 1st time using synthetics will remove a lot of deposits cause it is a detergent type of oil.

Type R Positive
11-10-2011, 09:04 PM
Did you get it tested?

kryptonite
11-10-2011, 09:21 PM
**MY SIX MONTH UPDATE/Mini review***

http://www.mobil.ca/Shared-Images-LCW/article_150x150_ep-filter_amer.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41nOARRfmFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Been running Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil and Mobil 1 EP filter for a full 6 month now.

Car still runs like charm, got a bit worried a month or so ago saying the oil is a bit dark, but since it's still thin and when car warmed up it's gone light in colour again, I'm not worried anymore.

Been reading online about the Mobil 1 EP. The oil AND filter is good for up to 15000 Miles / 24000 KM's. However since the car hasn't been used very much recently (only done 4000 km since service in January). I've decided to not do a 6 monthly oil change. And leave the oil change to Late this year/Early next year, or a full 10000km-ish.

I know I can probably push 15000km on this oil from what I've read on other forums. But since this is the first full syn oil change for the car's I'd expect a lot of detox'in going on in the engine with the addictive in the M1 EP... Cleaning out the crap the Honda dealers' been using for the last 7 odd years. I'll do a full oil/filter change at 10000KM and flush everything clean. I'll do a oil analysis When I do the oil change.


Next Oil to try: US-Spec Mobil 1 0w-40 :)... full 10k drain interval


PS: I've noticed something lately. I've checked out Castrol website and their Castrol Edge Sport advertisements/marketing materials. There's no mention of any addictive packages apart from "Low-Chlorine"... In that case... aren't we just buying a bottle of plain Group 3 hydro-cracked base oil? At 50 odd dollars a bottle.... Ain't that some food for thought.

about to do a transmission flush with valvoline maxlife ATF and then top up with Redline D4.

I might as well do the oil as well - how many litres did it take?

Fredoops
11-10-2011, 09:22 PM
Did you get it tested?

I used a engine flush fluid to get everything out, I can get it tested still cause it's still sitting int he pan.



about to do a transmission flush with valvoline maxlife ATF and then top up with Redline D4.

I might as well do the oil as well - how many litres did it take?

i used 5 bottles,

cheapdouchebag
11-10-2011, 11:46 PM
Thanks to the above fella MR fredoops and his sourcing, im using now Mobil 1 High mileage 10w-40. Its a fully synthetic and was used instead of mineral which has been used in my engine since new untill 160xxx kms. The switchover was fantastic! its been almost 1500 kms since then and no leaks or signs of seals deteriorating whatsoever. Hasnt consumed any oil yet so far compared to FEO at the last service.

very happy with the overall oil. paid $74 for 6 quarts which is about 5.85L. have one bottle left which stays in the boot of the car just incase any oil leaks or gets consumed. very happy so far.

marquee
12-10-2011, 05:39 PM
Car takes 4.8 litres

Fredoops
12-10-2011, 06:30 PM
Car takes 4.8 litres

I only used 4.5, I guess it varies.

by-life
02-07-2014, 12:06 PM
Take note.
I will try Mobil EP 5w-30 on next 90,000km service; then will try 0w-40 after 100,000km.

BigBen
02-07-2014, 06:45 PM
I run with Amsoil 0w-20 signature series oil plus the Amsoil synthetic filter and change every 20,000km and i do give it some revs to clear its throat.

At 40,000km when I adjusted the valves the engine was very clean, I should have taken a photo when the valve cover was removed.

blabla
07-07-2014, 09:54 PM
Currently using shell helix ultra 5w40 seems to be ok engine runs quieter then penrite racing tenths. Reviews says it has 0w40 characteristics. But I really want to try the Liqui Moly Super Leichtlauf 10W40. Penrith Honda says I should be using the castrol because its the closest to oem he also confirmed that castrol do make the honda oils.

Rooster
07-08-2014, 10:13 PM
Castrol Edge 5w40 and 5w30 only $30 at repco this weekend

Fredoops
07-08-2014, 10:43 PM
^^ i didnt see anything in the catalogues

Rooster
07-08-2014, 10:47 PM
Just saw the ad on TV, two ads during the footy show.

Fredoops
07-08-2014, 10:48 PM
Just saw the ad on TV, two ads during the footy show.

sweet more details please lol is it NSW only?

Rooster
07-08-2014, 10:54 PM
Not sure didn't read the fine print as I was shocked by the price haha, maybe call your local tomorrow and find out.

ChaosMaster
09-08-2014, 11:15 AM
Seems like it is Aus wide. But I bet most stores are sold out by now. Edge 5w30 and 5w40. From memory, wasn't 5w40 the crap stuff?

Nigel Euro
09-08-2014, 12:41 PM
Although I bought this stuff a month ago when it was on special and only recently changed the oil. I saw it again on special today at Tuggeranong Repco and bought another 5litres for when I do my next oil change. I've anecdotally noticed about 30-40km further per tank on this stuff, engine also seems to rev to redline smoother as well.

Rooster
09-08-2014, 04:38 PM
So 5w-40 pretty much was already low in stock across all stores.
5w30 was in stock so just got that.

amant02
09-08-2014, 04:54 PM
Not a big Fan of castrol, as their gear oil has burnt 2 of my freshly built box's.

But at that price, Im stocking up for brother in laws and dad cars lol.

tony1234
09-08-2014, 05:15 PM
Seems like it is Aus wide. But I bet most stores are sold out by now. Edge 5w30 and 5w40. From memory, wasn't 5w40 the crap stuff?
Went to my local Repco at 9.30this morning all 5W30 sold.

ChaosMaster
09-08-2014, 07:33 PM
Went to my local Repco at 9.30this morning all 5W30 sold.

Interesting. Here in Vic, I went at 11am and most stores still had a lot of 5w30 left, but next to no stores had 5w40 (according to the guy on the computer). So I ended up grabbing 3x 5w30 and 2x 10w40 Valvoline Engine Armour which were $20 each. From memory though, Edge 5W30 is full synthetic where as 5W40 is semi synthetic. I could be wrong though, but at the same price, I would prefer a full synthetic oil anyways. I needed a 40w for my mum's 99 Vienta V6, even though Castrol's lube guide recommends Edge 5W30, I think it's a bit thin for an engine of that age.

Edit: It seems like the 5W30 is A3/B4 rated and 5W40 is SN rated. Not on the same scale so I'm not sure how they compare.

Fredoops
10-08-2014, 12:40 PM
I got a bottle of each.

ChaosMaster
10-08-2014, 05:10 PM
Hmmm, well here are teh PDS of both the oils:
5W30: http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/AECC776DF8C45D2280257CE700137286/$File/CASTROL%20EDGE_5W-30%20A3B4_3374731_2014_01.pdf
5W40: http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/C6E03139D0B614D080257C2B001472C8/$File/CASTROL_EDGE_5W-40%20SN_3774718_2013_11.pdf

The 40 has higher KV and HTHS but that's to be expected. Both claim to be FULL synthetics but neither state what base stock they use. Would be interested if anyone could find out.

I also found this:
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/articles/amsoils-big-competitors/#.U-cYGGMivu4

Pretty interesting read, although a bit of advertising from Amsoil themselves of course. Interesting to find the favorites (RedLine, M1EP and Castrol Edge Titanium) either doing really well or really badly. That annual cost thing is a load of crap though.

Fredoops
10-08-2014, 08:21 PM
group 3 base oil.

ChaosMaster
11-08-2014, 11:27 AM
Hmmm, I thought group 3 couldn't be considered Full Synthetic.

Jasemas
11-08-2014, 09:08 PM
Castrol was in court and convinced the judge that they can call group 3 oils synthetic
It was a big case about it

ChaosMaster
11-08-2014, 11:14 PM
Castrol was in court and convinced the judge that they can call group 3 oils synthetic
It was a big case about it

So that's what it was. I read about that, but the version I heard was that Castrol was taken to court for advertising group 3 oils/semi synthetic oils as straight "synthetic". And because of that, other companies including Castrol started putting the more correct "semi-synthetic" on their lables.

Fredoops
12-08-2014, 12:17 AM
So that's what it was. I read about that, but the version I heard was that Castrol was taken to court for advertising group 3 oils/semi synthetic oils as straight "synthetic". And because of that, other companies including Castrol started putting the more correct "semi-synthetic" on their lables.

Nope, group 3 base stock is considered full synthetic since the end of the Mobil vs Castrol law suit.

Bit of a different situation in the EU tho, it's been said only group 4 and 5 are considered synthetic in the EU, don't know how true it is.

Having said that, certain oil grades are usually outside of what group 3 base stock can reach, for eg: 0w40 would have to have a good dose of group 4 or 5 to reach that grade. Ditto to 0w50

Jasemas
12-08-2014, 12:30 AM
Its weird hey
In EU group 4 & 5 are considered Full synth

But USA Group 3 is considered Full synth

Hmmmmmmmmmmm

kryptonite
12-08-2014, 07:33 PM
I also found this:
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/articles/amsoils-big-competitors/#.U-cYGGMivu4



sounds like we need a group buy on amsoil

Fredoops
12-08-2014, 08:39 PM
sounds like we need a group buy on amsoil

Or just get Valvoline Synpower next time it's on sale.

Box
27-10-2014, 05:52 PM
Valvoline synpower is awesome, usually get it it on sale at supercheap

Lozer
27-10-2014, 07:58 PM
I will be using Penrite 5 X 40 full synth in my Accord Euro. cause i do longdistance driving & I think Penright is The Best. I will change every 7000 kys + Filter. I changed oil yesterday & auto same time & to day i went for a long drive now instead of 7.5 lts to 100 kys i get 6.5 per 100ks at least that's what the fule thingy in the spedeo says.. The car went so much smoother & had more power.

Fredoops
05-11-2014, 01:09 AM
I will be using Penrite 5 X 40 full synth in my Accord Euro. cause i do longdistance driving & I think Penright is The Best. I will change every 7000 kys + Filter. I changed oil yesterday & auto same time & to day i went for a long drive now instead of 7.5 lts to 100 kys i get 6.5 per 100ks at least that's what the fule thingy in the spedeo says.. The car went so much smoother & had more power.

If you are referring to penrite hpr5, it's a good value oil for what you pay.

Wouldn't say it's the best by any means, it is after all a group 3 base stock with a (over) reliance on zinc/zddp for protection and a complete lack of anti friction agents.

It's a good oil to prevent burn offs, I'm using hpr5 at the moment but I ended up adding liquimoly MOS to reduce friction.

Lozer
07-11-2014, 05:01 PM
The problem with friction additive oils & any friction mod oils is that the friction oil makes the bore in your motor very slipery & eventuly leaves a very hard film in the bore & then your rings don't do there job & lets oil pass the rings to ezy, eventuly leading to excesive oil usiage & loss of compression in your motor. I have been using Penrite ever since it came out & not once have i ever had a problem even when i raced cars back then. I did rember in the 70s Gastrol put to much friction additives in there oils & stuffed up a hell of a lot of motors. Just me ten cents worth!...

Jasemas
07-11-2014, 08:42 PM
Castrol Edge Titanium 5w 40SN is on sale at repco for $35
Usual retail is $75

Fredoops
08-11-2014, 12:03 AM
The most common anti friction agent used soluble Moly, I've yet to read a case of it soluble Moly ruining a modern engine or leaving hard films. Zinc on the other had does exactly that leaving a hard film, and high content of zinc kills your cat converter and can corrode certain cam metals or foul your spark plug (probably not in the amount in the hpr5 contains tho) .

Part of reason is why zinc is being replaced by titanium in certain oils.

Lozer
08-11-2014, 10:01 AM
MMMMMMM Fredoops, I did not no that. what do you recomend for a 30,000 klm 2011 Euro.?

ChaosMaster
10-11-2014, 01:53 PM
MMMMMMM Fredoops, I did not no that. what do you recomend for a 30,000 klm 2011 Euro.?

If your driving everyday, then any old Synthetic oil is good. It's better to do more regular changes than to buy a good oil and keeping it in there for prolonged periods. Castrol Edge is a great oil when it's on sale (usually around the $30 mark)

Jasemas
10-11-2014, 09:22 PM
Again boys 5w40 edge is on sale at repco!

Fredoops
11-11-2014, 12:25 PM
MMMMMMM Fredoops, I did not no that. what do you recomend for a 30,000 klm 2011 Euro.?

Factory Fill for the CU2 euro's are 5w20 or 0w20 synthetic.

pause for a sec and think about that for a moment when choosing oils.

Jasemas
11-11-2014, 11:26 PM
Is that why they are using oil because its too thin?
Had a chat with the foreman of a honda dealership in perth and agreed about the oil being too thin

ChaosMaster
12-11-2014, 04:40 PM
Is that why they are using oil because its too thin?
Had a chat with the foreman of a honda dealership in perth and agreed about the oil being too thin

They do it to meet newer emission standards. But because they know it's too thin, they made burning 0.5L oil every 1000km within "specifications"

laijer
21-11-2014, 03:18 PM
What do you guys think of the Valvoline SynPower 5w-40?
It's on special at Repco for $29.99 save $35. $65 at Supercheap Auto.

Lozer
21-11-2014, 04:33 PM
Not a grate lover of Valvoline Especialy when you see it for sale in K Mart or Big W. I allways use Penrite But thats just me.

Fredoops
21-11-2014, 06:39 PM
Get valvoline, lots of good UOAs on bitog.

Should be good for the cl9.

Fredoops
21-11-2014, 06:42 PM
Re: CU2 using oil.

If you ever get the chance, put a cl9 and a cu2 camshaft side by side, you can see the difference in quality.

That aside, the actual problem is the piston rings and piston not matching properties causing oil consumption.

Only way to fix it is new pistons and new piston rings according to acura Tsb


EDIT: read here
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?184944-cu2-burning-oil-Read-here.&p=3934653#post3934653

Jasemas
24-11-2014, 12:43 AM
Repco will have Shell helix/ultra oils on special from $29 next Thursday gentlemen get on it

laijer
26-11-2014, 11:59 AM
Repco will have Shell helix/ultra oils on special from $29 next Thursday gentlemen get on it

Nice heads up. Just saw the XMas catalogue; yep $29.99 for Helix Ultra 5w40 and $46.99 for 5w30.

Fredoops
26-11-2014, 08:20 PM
Shell Helix HX8 5W-30
$32.99 EA
Repco

Synthetic so i've been told



Or the Helix Ultra 5w40 for $29.99 EA


get on it folks

Jasemas
27-11-2014, 12:11 AM
Nice heads up. Just saw the XMas catalogue; yep $29.99 for Helix Ultra 5w40 and $46.99 for 5w30.
I work for them hehe
always get the info early for you folks

laijer
27-11-2014, 08:53 AM
Shell Helix HX8 5W-30
$32.99 EA
Repco

Is the HX8 5w-30 better than the Ultra 5w-40?

Edit: Scratch that, just looked up the regular price of HX8 and it's about $50 compared to $80 for Ultra

laijer
27-11-2014, 08:56 AM
I work for them hehe
always get the info early for you folks
You reckon they will sell out fast? I usually am never able to make it into the stores until Sunday.

Jasemas
27-11-2014, 09:20 AM
Yup
Find your local store and ask if they can set aside one for you

minhdung1911
27-11-2014, 03:53 PM
My 2010 CU2 is currently at 90,000km and is booked in for service at Honda next Thursday. Should i bring my own oil (if yes, what should i buy) or use the one provided by Honda?

Cheers

Tommy

Fredoops
27-11-2014, 08:29 PM
Nothing stopping you from bring your own oil.

amant02
27-11-2014, 09:12 PM
Just double check the docket if they docked you for oil, when you have supplied yours.

laijer
28-11-2014, 05:41 AM
Should i bring my own oil (if yes, what should i buy) or use the one provided by Honda?
Shell Helix Ultra is on special at Repco right now. If it's good enough for a Ferrari, it's good enough for a Honda :)

minhdung1911
28-11-2014, 09:25 AM
Thanks all :-). So what kind of oil should i buy?

laijer
28-11-2014, 09:31 AM
Use full synthetic oil with the viscosity 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 or 10W-40.

minhdung1911
28-11-2014, 10:08 AM
Use full synthetic oil with the viscosity 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40 or 10W-40.

Thank you. I'll grab Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 as recommended by Shell for CU2.

laijer
29-11-2014, 12:22 AM
I grabbed the last 4 bottles on the shelf at my Repco store early yesterday (Friday).

Jasemas
29-11-2014, 12:56 AM
Gentleman Repco are having 40% off Penrite oils this weekend
GET ON IT

Fredoops
29-11-2014, 12:57 AM
would rather Castrol / Valvoline / Shell

Jasemas
29-11-2014, 01:00 AM
would rather Castrol / Valvoline / Shell
Me too man
But people like Penrite
had a lady come in from Penrite and she didn't know what base oil they used
Turns out the HPR stuff is group 3
And everyday is group 2
While the racing tenths is group 4
I laughed in my head a little

EKVTIR-T
29-11-2014, 11:09 AM
picked up 2 Ultra today,surprised it wasnt sold out

Jasemas
30-11-2014, 02:12 AM
Bought racing tenths
40% of yeah

Lozer
12-12-2014, 11:18 PM
Have had Penrite 5 W40 Tenths Swnth in my car now for 4000Kys ,The car was using some oil with the recomended Honda 5 W30 oil the dealer put in but now it hasn't used any for 4000kys & i am so happy.