HELP! Right hand rear disc capiler locked on!

[DeSloth]

Howdy, have done a quick search and didn't find anything. I'm really hoping for a fast answer here because my car is undrivable.

Symptoms:

Car has had long-running weak handbrake issues. Since I've owned it for the last 6-7 months it has had the cable tightened a good few times and still has no chance of holding on any sort of hill. Car does not slow down even a little it handbrake is applied while moving (not that I did this to wreck it, or would EVER do it with a working brake, just proving the point it simply does not grab.)

Ok, tonight moving the car in my own driveway. It is cold, brakes are cold. Trying to shift the car on a fair incline I had to apply some serious handbrake to prevent flying backward into a brick wall. Pulled her on pretty hard, proceded up the drive and into garage onto (obviously) a flat surface. At this point I realised something in the back was dragging horrribly. Released brake immediately, can't push car at all. yay.

Tried to 'shock' and bump it into releasing driving around my block at low speeds. Would stop every 50 odd metres to let the brake cool as the heat only made things expand and grab harder. No dice at all.

Where to from here people? Really appreciate any input.

I've put this in the accord forum as it is a '94 Accord Vti, but mods please don't tag the subject line - any tips form people with cars having rear discs would rock.

Thanks all, sorry for the essay, and the many mistakes it almost certainly contains...

[ECU-MAN]

sounds like your rear caliper has seized in the on position.

this is going to be fun to fix.
unless your a mechanic or confident backyard mechanic, take it to a mechanic to have it fixed. your rear calipers could need to be overhauled.

[DeSloth]

Thanks for the response.

I will certainly have it attended to (brakes are important, and stuff), but the issue is actually getting it to my mechanic. 50m at a time is impossible, and it has already been on a truck once in the few crappy months I have owned her.

If I can get the capiler to release I should be ok...

[ECU-MAN]

probably wont get it to release. if you did what would the quality of your brakes be. could seize again


you will have to invest in a tow truck.

[r`Geno]

It's probably your brake booster mate.

[DeSloth]

I am after tips to get it to release.

If I fail, or the brake craps out again, I will attend to towing.

If if were the booster, wouldn't both the rear brakes show similar symptoms? 99% sure it is only the left hand side... (heat + smell - left is cool enough to put my hand on and leave it there, right is burning up)

[r`Geno]

If you want it to release why not bleed the line?

[ECU-MAN]

might not be hydraulic lock, rather mechanical. bleeding is not a good idea if this dude plans on driving this to his mechanic

[r`Geno]

He can't drive it in it's current condition.

Anyway here's what I would do (but neither I or Ozhonda take any responsibility for damage or injury).

1. Bleed the line and push the piston back (if that is the problem). Otherwise remove the brake pads from the caliper (making sure the caliper won't rub against the rotor).
2. Unplug the rear brake line from the faulty caliper.
3. Drive slowly to the nearest mechanic.

Your safest bet is to tow it.

[ECU-MAN]

man, thats some pretty brave advice

if he unplugs the bake line from the faulty caliper, as soon as he presses the brake pedal he will loose fluid from it. this also makes the right front caliper inoperative.

just tow it, dont risk killing your self or anyone else

[DeSloth]

Front and rear are seperate braking systems are they not? (honest question here, I was just under the impression they were)

I wouldn't bleed them myself, not with no workshop manual and no experience doing it.

Anyway, that is a seriously good way to die. And can you imagine the insurance claim with an inoperative brake!

Thanks though mate. I have just spoken to a mate who suffered a similar fate after pulling his hardbrake too hard. Cable got snagged on the chassis and would not release. I'll investigate first thing tomorrow.

[r`Geno]

Well, common sense would indicate that he should seal the unplugged brake line - not leave it dangling freely in mid air.

But like I said, his safest bet is to tow it.

[ECU-MAN]

with Hondas, the front brakes are not seperate from the rears. LHF and RHR work on the same chanel and so do the RHF and LHR, but there is a proportioning valve between the front and rear.

[DeSloth]

Cool, didn't know that about the brake system.

Anyway, I solved the problem, thanks people.

Took the wheel off today and inspected the general area. Hidden under the handbrake cable cover (where it links into the caliper) was a rotating plate with a stop on it. When the handbrake is off and cable relaxed, this 'stop' bump rests on a bolt. When handbrake is on, it moves off the stop-bolt and toward the caliper. Unfortunately, there is no limiting bumper or buffer is this direction, and due to a whole pile of circumstances (that obviously started before I even owned the car), this 'stop' was able to ride up onto the capiler and get REALLY stuck. Needed a big hammer to get it off.

Bled the brakes a tiny bit and re-adjusted the handbrake (what a crappy job) and she's all apples.

The decision to clean my car last night wasted the better part of my afternoon. Super.

Thanks again for the helpful hints.