Redrilled rotors

[n/a]

hey guys, wondering if there are any problems with re-drilling rotors.

eg, have 5 x 114 and re-drilling 4 x 100 stud pattern.

i was thinking it would make the rotor less stronger.
anyone had or heard of anything like this?

thanks.

[revNhevN]

i wouldn't fit them. it will make them weaker. abit off topic but an article in speed magazine a while back said that drilling holes (not stud holes, but the ones on the disc surface - cross drilled ??) in rotors disrupts the grain an makes it weaker. Brembo is the only manufacturer to cast these holes in thier rotors.

[pgclee]

just change the rotors...not worth the risk of drilling..save abit more money and change to DBA or better, Project U carbon...worth the money...

[integrator]

Yeah like what others said get rotors that are drilled for your stud size

[incoming]

what are the actual cons of drilled rotors??..

[panda[cRx]]

or you can get black rotors yeah? and get them drilled to your specifications.

i asked the same thing a while back as i was gonna ugrade my brakes to lude brakes at the front. however i changed my rims to 4x100 only and they wouldnt fit. i asked around from forums to brake specialists and i was strongly advised no to re drill them.

i wouldnt do it myself yet there are ppl that do it and have no problems

[SKREMN]

I got these done not long ago
whe i did my LS/Vtec convertion
I got it fitted with Prelude Vtir rotors and calipers
I'm guessiong you went a bigger set up like me and connot get that size rotor in 4 stud
I went with aftermarket DBA slotted
anyways they are originally 5 stud then redrilled to suit 4 stud pattern
I wouldnt recomend doing this in your backyard but done professionally it should be fine
when it is drilled it is a special press with four drills in it so they are all in the right spot

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b164/skremnLS/Rotors.jpg

[n/a]

mm.. thanks guy, i thought it would make it weaker, i wouldn't feel safe braking.

cons of drilled rotors? they crack, slotted is much better than drilled.

[incoming]

- reason i asked is mine have been redrilled professionally and have had no problems...
- they DBA prelude brakes redrilled to 4x100

i'd had no problems so far and they pull up fcukin awesome!

[ek004]

nothing to worry about, I have had mine drilled and have tracked my car over 5 times with this setup, drag raced at WSID with 8000rpm launches without an issue.

[wynode]

I think the issue is strength and the weakening of the disk where the lugs come through.

Is it 'legal' to redrill them?

The other option is to get blanks from DBA and have them drilled :)

[n/a]

I think the issue is strength and the weakening of the disk where the lugs come through.

Is it 'legal' to redrill them?

The other option is to get blanks from DBA and have them drilled :)

that's right, i'm not talking about the stopping power, i'm talking about the strength of the actual rotor itself.

blank DBA's are a good way to go, something like $400 a pair brand new.

[ek004]

that's right, i'm not talking about the stopping power, i'm talking about the strength of the actual rotor itself.

blank DBA's are a good way to go, something like $400 a pair brand new.

We aren't takling about aftermarket aluminium hats pieced together with rotors, we are talking about a massive peice of heavy iron.

I have tried to get DBA blank discs, but the chances of them starting a whole new porduction of rotors for a single blank rotor for you will prove quite difficult (as I have found).

If it puts you at ease race brakes even do this, ie: drill new 5x114.3 rotors to suit a 4x100 PCD design. However if you must get a new rotor that is blank, speak to SP0017 on this forum, he is able to get brembo blanks or brembo rotors at the right size for this conversion for 4x100PCD.

[panda[cRx]]

i too have heard of ppl using redrilled rotors for track..... yet the amount of brake ppl and mechanics that advised me against it was too much.

i pretty much got the same response from most "it CAN be done, but i WOULDN'T do it"
which is a shame coz the lude brakes i was gonna use would have been sexy :o

[pgclee]

I tot DBA Cross drill is only like 400Aud???
if u want braking power, get Braided hose, Brake stopper, Dot 4 or higher fluid, Cross Drill disc, and also, sussy does the trick as well plus a good set of tyre...may be you'll be 4-5m shorter in distance in braking...

[n/a]

how much stopping power does one need?

[panda[cRx]]

what you got under your hood?
how and where are you driving it?

[bubblecivic]

I was reading through this thread and have just the one question - What's the difference between "slotted" and "cross drilled" brakes? Any major differences?

[z3lda]

I got these done not long ago
whe i did my LS/Vtec convertion
I got it fitted with Prelude Vtir rotors and calipers
I'm guessiong you went a bigger set up like me and connot get that size rotor in 4 stud
I went with aftermarket DBA slotted
anyways they are originally 5 stud then redrilled to suit 4 stud pattern
I wouldnt recomend doing this in your backyard but done professionally it should be fine
when it is drilled it is a special press with four drills in it so they are all in the right spot

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b164/skremnLS/Rotors.jpg

that doesnt look like 5stud....probly is 4x100 and u got it drilled for notnhign.

[joyride]

i've had 5x114.3 redrilled to 4x114.3 and had no problems.

[blackdc2]

I tot DBA Cross drill is only like 400Aud???
if u want braking power, get Braided hose, Brake stopper, Dot 4 or higher fluid, Cross Drill disc, and also, sussy does the trick as well plus a good set of tyre...may be you'll be 4-5m shorter in distance in braking...

out of all those things that you have mentioned, only the sussy and tyres will help your car stop quicker, the other just add to the brake feel.

if you want smaller stopping distances, you will require larger calipers or larger disks, or better pads. but pads will only offer you a limited amount of performance.

[wynode]

out of all those things that you have mentioned, only the sussy and tyres will help your car stop quicker, the other just add to the brake feel.

if you want smaller stopping distances, you will require larger calipers or larger disks, or better pads. but pads will only offer you a limited amount of performance.

:thumbsup:

You should only be looking to upgrading your disks / calipers only once you have a nice firm pedal under heavy, repeated braking IMO

[blackdc2]

:thumbsup:

You should only be looking to upgrading your disks / calipers only once you have a nice firm pedal under heavy, repeated braking IMO

very true, but if you are planning on changing calipers/rotors etc, you would not want to throw away previously purchased lines/rotors due to them not being compatible any more.


if you plan on upgrading to larger calipers/rotors later on, determine if the mods that you do now are going to be compatible later on.


Brake fluid can be upgraded when calipers are changed as the system would have to be bled anyway. brake fluid will not make the car stop quicker, it will just keep consistant pedal feel and increase the period before the fluid would boil

brake stoppers are controversial thing, so choose to do this upgrade after you have done your research.

[aozora]

Using old discs to redrill is relatively unsafe... as the drilling is often inaccurate (even 1mm off will cause problems) and induces stress on the rotor cast but from factory or brand new rotors should be more then fine. In fact, some of DBA's rotors come in both 4 and 5 stud patterns.
Although, I'm not going to hide it, quite a few people I know have done it and had no problems aswell.

Ideally brake upgrades DO NOT make you stop quicker (without taking into account repetition). As most standard brakes should lock up your tyres anyway. What you are upgrading for, is against brake fade. If you turbo your car... if you do any decent sort of driving (traffic light heroes != decent driving), you will be reaching higher speeds by the end of the straights and as a result braking for a longer amount of time then you normally would have before... and so increasing the heat generated and... chances of brake fade. Pads are a good start but are limited in the end... larger diameter/thickness rotors help dissapate the heat better, slotted even more. Bigger calipers will benefit aswell... brake fluid, braided brake lines (more for feel I would think)... but ultimately what it boils down to, is your tyres. So in theory a brake bias adjuster could help you stop quicker too.

As somebody already mentioned, don't go cross-drilled rotors.. pure wank and are prone to cracking. Unless you just cruise around like an idiot at 40km/hr, go ahead. But when you do/if you do get new rotors, make sure you buy new pads aswell and bed them in properly! Good luck?

ek004... I know what you mean about waiting for new production run for blank rotors. I've been waiting for... 4-5 months? :(

[SKREMN]

that doesnt look like 5stud....probly is 4x100 and u got it drilled for notnhign.
I never really noticed that
I think it must be4x114
I got told they are vtir calipers just presumed they are the rotors as well???

[blackdc2]

Ideally brake upgrades DO NOT make you stop quicker (without taking into account repetition). As most standard brakes should lock up your tyres anyway. What you are upgrading for, is against brake fade....... but ultimately what it boils down to, is your tyres.

like you said, once you get a good tyre, if the tyres have great grip levels, like a semi slick, then there is a good chance that the breaking system wont be able to pull the car up as quick as it could with larger rotors/calipers

on the street, no one should be pushing their brakes, epecially at traffic lights :thumbdwn:

[aozora]

like you said, once you get a good tyre, if the tyres have great grip levels, like a semi slick, then there is a good chance that the breaking system wont be able to pull the car up as quick as it could with larger rotors/calipers

on the street, no one should be pushing their brakes, epecially at traffic lights :thumbdwn:

Good point but initially... without better/good tyres, it's kind of pointless (with stopping distances in mind...!) :)