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Flanderz
12-08-2005, 05:17 PM
Hi Guys
I noticed that in the requested articles there was one on how do I polish my car properly? Well I just happened to work as a car detailer for a bit so here is a little guide on the best ways to get maximus waximus onto ur car :D

P.S I Only recomend meguairs when washing ur car, have had nothing but good experiances with most of their products, also have alot of time on ur hands can take a whole day of work when done right

Step 1: Wash
First of rinse your car well with a high pressure hose, high pressure hoses are the best to wash with as they remove alot of grit and grime that can scratch while polishing. Then add a good portion of car wash (Meguairs Gold Class) into a clean bucket (if it has dirt in it wash it out as this scratches ur car). Fill with warm to hot water, and rinse off a lambswool or synthetic sponge to use. Wash your car thoughly in sections hosing off when one has been completed. This step should take 30-45mins. If your sponge gets dirt or grime on it wash it off immediatly as this will cause scrathches (if you drop it, give it a good wash, don't just dunk it back into your bucket). Once done, use the normal hose to give a final rinse, let the water trickle down from the roof making sure everything is rinsed well. Rinsing with the normal hose is better than high pressure as any dirt is carried away with the water stream, high pressure can actually put dirt back onto your car forcefully. (also a good idead to have a tap filter fitted, u will be surprised how much gets trapped in one $10 from bunnings)

Step 2: Chamie
First off drive your car into the garage and get out a good quality chamie. Old & used ones will scratch. Wash the chamie in warm water with the smallest amout of car wash u used for the car, then make sure it is rinsed really well. The best thing to do is to hold the chamie by its 2 corners, let it sit on the body (it should stick to it from the water) then drag along until it gets soaked with water, then squeeze out, doing it this way reduces scratch marks as there is no pressure from your hand on the body. Repeat untill the car is completley dry. If your really predantic like me, you can even use a blower to get rid of any excess water, cause remember, polish and water don't mix very well.

Step 3: Paint Cleaner
Most car care products will have a type of product called paint cleaner, this is the best way to get rid of any old wax and surface contaminets. First off check your car to see if it needs a polish. Rub your hand over the paintwork, It should be silky smooth, If it is you do not need to polish and wax and can just drive your car to the next cruize. But if you feel little bumps and a rough fininsh then you need to geive it a shot of paint cleaner. These little bumps are surface inperfections that are caused by industrial fallout, road grime, rain (yes it does damage your paint) and other little bits and pieces. Make sure you have a hand applicator (little meguairs sponge thingy) and plently of 100% cotton terry towles. Apply a small ammount to the hand applicator and remember to work in sections at a time, best to start at the roof and work your way down eg bonnet then boot, then sides. A smalll amount should be about a 20c coins worth. NEVER apply product to your car by squezzing it onto the paint. Using a circular hand motion, apply to the paint making sure you cover every area, and take care not to get the paint cleaner on rubbers and plastics (it is hard to do, that why I say go slow). Once you have finished a section, let the product dry to a haze. Grab a terry towel and have it folded into 4 sections, that way it give you 8 buffs with each towel. Buff using a rigourous circular motion, remember that the towel should be unfolded into a new section when you get a build up of product on the towel. Make sure you get all the product off, then get another clean one and give it a once over with the clean towel. (one towel for buffing the product off and one for buffing after the product is off). Check your work, the paint should feel alot smoother now, continue until the car is done and make sure all product is buffed off.

Step 4: Scratch repair (extra step)
After using the paint cleaner, you might notice some swirl marks on your paintwork if the paint cleaner did not get all of them out, everybody will as almost everything causes scratches (ppl leaning up agains ur car, the brush wand at carlovers etc). To get MOST of these out use meguairs sctach X. Find the areas that have the most scratches and use this product in these sections (u do not need to do the whole car but you can if it is really bad). Scratch X will soften the clear coat on ur paintwork a little and alow you to buff out those scratches. Use a clean applicator and terry towel and work on these sections using the polishing method described in section 3. (NEVER use the same applicator or terry towel when using different products, always use different ones and mark them as to witch product was on witch applicator & terry towel. Mixing two products then rubbing it against ur paintwork is not the best idea. eg if u used paint cleaner on one applicator it is not ok to use scratch X on the same applicator pad, get a new one.)

Step 5: Clay bar (extra step)
A clay bar looks like a bar of soap and what it does is get rid of any baked on stuff that you might not be able to see (eg paper turns yellow in the sun, your clear coat does the same thing but its hard to see, a clay bar rubs these imperfections out). The bar is a little bit sticky and can be moulded into any shape, but you shouldn't need to. You need the surface to be slippery in order to rub against your paint. I u buy meguairs you will get a bottle of quick deatiler with the clay bar. First off wet a section you will be working on with the quick detailer (use a bit) then start rubbing the clay bar against the paint work. It should slide very smoothly along the paint, When it stops doing this, move onto another section (try to avoid rubbing onto a area that has no quick detailer sprayed onto it as the bar will leave a mark on the paint). Keep going until you are satisfied, the paint should be very silky smooth after a hit off the bar. If you have marks on the paint from the bar hitting areas that had not quick detailer on them (and you will trust me). Get a clean terry towel and buff these out. They take a bit to get out, just squirt some mor quick detailer on it to help (& it smells fantastic too).

Step 6: Polish
By now the paint on your car should be looking alot better and should feel like glass when toutching it. The next step is to polish your car. Use a polish that suits ur car. (eg Deep wet look polish for darker colours, normal polish for lighter colours), it doesn't make much difference in my experiance but it is up to you. A polish will make the paintwork have a deeper richer colour and will nourish the paint & clear coat with oils that will help it last against any enviromental nasties. Start from the top and work your way down to the bottom of the car. When buffing the haze from a polish make sure that you do an initial buff, then follow up with a clean towel and give it a really good buff (the more you buff the better it will look). Also I like to give the windows a little bit of a polish as well as this can take out some minor things on them. (gets overspray off very easily). Make sure you get all the product off tho and you might want to fininsh them off with some window cleaner to make sure it is all off (NEVER polish the inside of a window if it is tinted, this will take off the tint, also use a very small amount of polish on windows too.)

Step 7: Wax
OK by now your arms will be aching like hell, but your car will be loving you very much. Your paint will be looking like a million bucks BUT in order to now protect it and to make any water bead right off it you need to wax it. Wax will leave a film of protection on ur paintwork and will keep all that hard work from before from being spoilt by the great outdoors. BUT Wax will also make dirt stick to your car alot easier (double edged sword). Use a good quality wax (Gold class is the bomb). I wax everything on my car, rubbers, lights plastics and windows, it will actually nourish any rubbers & plastics. Unfortunatly the wax is the hardest to apply and buff off because it is a thicker liquid. Start from the top and work your way to the bottom working in sections. The wax like the polish needs a really good intial buff and then an even better follow up buff with a clean towel. Once the car is done get some more clean towels and buff it again until you can put a towel on the bonnet, give it a little push and it should slide right off the end. Pay attention to plastics and rubbers as if they arn't buffed off properly they will leave a white haze, windows need the same attention as well as the wax will leave a residue when using ur wipers if not done properly.

Still more to come guys but I hope this helps.

supersamEK
12-08-2005, 11:08 PM
cmon more more!!! very helpful

MoDCoN
13-08-2005, 03:24 PM
Oh wow this is great! Just what i've been looking for! Cleaned/polished dad's car yesterday... Nice an' shiny!

Sticky this???

steve
27-08-2005, 08:30 PM
very professional advice!

Do you recommend the use of a buffer at any stage of the detailing process?

h22a accord
29-08-2005, 08:22 AM
nice work, excerllent info for those wanting to know or that didnt know already :) have you got any pics of your car to show us the results?

[stealth]
30-08-2005, 01:17 AM
wow comprehensive writeup... pics would be great tho! :)

fadz
30-08-2005, 07:25 AM
i was told truck wash is very good...if anyones heard of it, its used for most semi trailers/trucks etc , and duz a greater job then most the others.....

wkdteg
01-09-2005, 01:12 PM
haha nice write up matt... ur doin my car once its back on the road :p LoL
keep up the good work

Redteg
01-09-2005, 03:48 PM
Hi Guys
P.S I Only recomend meguairs when washing ur car, have had nothing but good experiances with most of their products, also have alot of time on ur hands can take a whole day of work when done right

I agree! Most (not all) of Meguairs products seem liek good value for money to me.

Although, I'm not a detailer and have never been in the business, but I like to wash, clay, wash again, and then use the paint cleaners and polishes etc. I have found that this gets rid of gunk easier and quicker. But there are many ways of achieving the same thing.

Also, only have ever used synthetic chamois and even then i just let them sit on the paint, no moving about. I've heard that the natural ones like to draw oils up out of the finish. But who knows...

aaronng
01-09-2005, 03:59 PM
I find natural chamois a little too "grabby". I use a microfibre chamois. If your mf does draw out oil from your paint, just use Meg's Deep Crystal Polish (step 2). That will replenish the oils and since it is a fully chemical polish, no scratches or wearing down of you paint (unless you are crazy enough to use a wool applicator).

My process is:
1) Wash - NXT car wash (Very good car wash. $20 for 1.9 litres too)
2) Dry - Meg's superglide microfibre chamois (doesn't hold as much water, but doesn't grab and remove wax)

If I am detailing:
3) Clay - Clay Magic blue clay + quick detailer or concentrated car shampoo in a spray bottle
4) Spot repair - ScratchX (make sure you use it correctly. Proper method on Meg's online forum). Follow up with Meg's deep crystal polish on the spot to replenish oils.

Now it splits into 2 lines, depending on what I want:
For protection:
4) Paint cleaning - Klasse AIO. Leaves a layer of polythene protection.
5) Waxing 1 - Meg's NXT Tech Wax
6) Waxing 2 - P21s Carnauba wax for the deep look

For looks:
4) Paint cleaning - Klasse AIO or Meg's Deep crystal Paint Cleaner (step 1)
5) Polish - Meg's Deep crystal polish (step 2)
6) Waxing 1 - Meg's NXT Tech Wax
7) Waxing 2 - P21s Carnauba wax

Putting Deep crystal polish before NXT results in darker areas in the paint if you don't buff it out properly and evenly with many clean microfibre cloths. That's why I rarely use this method anymore.

I just got my Bosch PEX 400AE dual action orbital and will use Poorboys SSR2.5 and SSR1 for my swirl removal. If you have a machine, Poorboys is cheap. It's only $16 for 473mL at waxit.com.au and that is much better value than $20 for a small tube of ScratchX at BigW.

newmski
01-09-2005, 04:35 PM
if ur just doing and "in between" major wash - wash then i would skip out the high pressure hose as it will remove the wax.
excellent write up lol and WEAR SUNSCREEN if ur in the sun :)

A'PEXi
01-09-2005, 06:19 PM
basically, i followed a few of the steps outlined in the first post which corrected my technique, and i must say the result is simply amazing.... i did not use a clay bar due to the fact that i didnt have one; and also did not use scratch x as there weren't any visible scratches.... megiuars car wash, chamios, sponge, paint cleaner, polish, colour boost wax (triple action) was used. here's a close up pic (the right is my bonnet, and the left is my fender)...

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b245/hks28/clean.jpg

i only finished the process tonight, so excuse the dodgy pic :P

**Ghost**
02-09-2005, 12:36 AM
......if u wax ur windows.... wouldnt that make the water hard to wipe (for ur wipers) next tiem it rains?!

[stealth]
02-09-2005, 01:30 AM
thats a clean pic there... :)

Flanderz
06-09-2005, 09:20 AM
......if u wax ur windows.... wouldnt that make the water hard to wipe (for ur wipers) next tiem it rains?!

Surprisingly half the time u wont even need to use them cause the the water will just beed off the window from the wind. Doesn't make it harder for ur wipers, I think it helps them more than anything. Give it a shot, you wont be dissapointed :D

Thanks for all your comments guys, I will try to get some pics when I do the car next, unfortunatly i'm workin 6 days a week and 2 jobs so I hardly get time anymore, also the paint job on my car is crap (sun blisters and alot of chips & deep key scratches), Rami let me do ur car, will come up awesome cause it was recently resprayed. Who knows, when i get time again i might even do some $50 half day deals :wave:

wkdteg
06-09-2005, 01:03 PM
Matt... ill gladly let u do me car... i want clay bar n all ;o) but use will all have 2 wait a lil while 2 c the pics etc... itll b worth it hahaha

Ferrari
07-09-2005, 11:03 AM
Any tips on how to remove road grime, like tar spots, whats the best product?

aaronng
07-09-2005, 11:37 AM
Try bug and tar remover (the citrus kind) first. If it doesn't work, then use a claybar. You can buy claybar sets from Repco for a reasonable price. Use either a slippery quick detailer or a moderately concentrated solution of car wash as a lube.

After using the bug and tar remover, you should reapply your wax as the bug&tar remover will remove the wax.

After using clay, use a mild polish such as Meg's step 2 to hide any marring, or if you have a mild physical polish (I have no idea what you can use that is sold in BigW/Supercheap/Repco). After polishing, follow up with your wax.

Ferrari
07-09-2005, 12:00 PM
Thanks for the info, that is very helpful!

What wax do you recommend? I use meguairs nxt car wash, and turtle wax platinum series wax, the turtle wax is good, just wondering from your experience if there are any better ones.

bubblecivic
07-09-2005, 02:09 PM
Hey there guys

Great write up! I just have a quick question.

When people buff the car and they miss a few spots and you can see bits of white buff stains on thar in a few areas, how do you get rid of them? Any advice?

Thanks in advance

**Ghost**
07-09-2005, 03:50 PM
i bought some turtle wax silver polish with a chip stick....is it any good/

cleary
07-09-2005, 04:29 PM
Excellent post - very helpful and exactly what I was looking for :)

*sticks it in the folder labelled "Bible"*

:p

aaronng
07-09-2005, 05:22 PM
Okok, now to answer your questions.
This is Rule #1. DO NOT USE RUBBING COMPOUND.
This is Rule #2. DO NOT USE RUBBING COMPOUND.

I'm serious here. Rubbing compound are for pro detailers. We just cannot comprehend how aggressive rubbing compound is. It's like using 2000 grit sandpaper on your paint.

Ok, now on to the more lighthearted stuff.

First, identify the reason you are buying polish. Is it to replenish the oils in the paint? Or is it to wear down the paint so that you make the scratches less obvious.
The first one is called a "Pure Polish" or "Chemical Polish". Example is Meg's Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish. It's purpose is to make your paint look deep and goooooood.

The second one is more correctly known as a "swirl remover". Usually it's labeled as a polish as well, but I call it an "abrasive polish" to differentiate. Meg's ScratchX is the first step towards swirl removal and hiding.

Ferrari.: NXT car wash is good! Cleans well, but not as foamy as some people like it. I use it and I prefer my car shampoo to be slippery and cleans well without needing any physical effort. From what I've heard from detailing forums, the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss wax is good. Some of them say it is similar to NXT tech wax, but with less cleaners. Stay away from their rubbing and white polishing compounds. These are meant for single-stage paints, the ones without clearcoats.

Ghost: I've read user reviews of that polish. The colour stick is pretty much useless on cars with clearcoats. Because your clearcoat is clear, and the stick is an opaque colour. You'll end up with a dull spot where you use it. The stick concept started in 1950s and it didn't sell well then. What is the purpose of buying a polish? Do you want to make your car shine? Or do you want to hide swirls or fix scratches? With regards to the Turtle Wax Silver polish, don't use it yet. Let me know your purpose for the polish first. If you bought it and haven't opened it, at least you can exchange it for a safer and better product.

Here is the products that I use, application method and purpose for using. All of them listed here have minimal chance at ruining your paint unless you are pressing down hard on the paint. You can just pick them out according to the purpose that you need.

Washing: NXT Car Shampoo with a lambswool mitt ($16 from Autobarn). Sponge will SCRATCH your paint. So don't use them. For drying, you can use either a chamois, synthetic chamois, microfibre chamois (I use this) or cotton nappies.

Mild scratch hiding and mild swirl removal: Meg's ScratchX with a Kenko cotton terry applicator pad.

Paint Cleaning: Meg's Deep Crystal Step 1 Paint Cleaner with a foam pad. Or Klasse All-In-One with a foam pad.

Polish for oil replenishing: Meg's Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish with a foam pad.

Wax/sealant: Meg's NXT Tech Wax with a foam pad. You can use Mother's carnauba or even the Turtle Wax Platinum Ultra Gloss Wax.

Notes:
1) Cotton pads are more aggressive than foam pads.
2) Sponges scratch because they are made from cellulose and is harder than paint.
3) Always wash your car before applying any paint cleaners, polishes, waxes or sealants. If you don't you'll get marring, which looks like a hologram on your paint.
4) Apply scratchX in a 5 cent coin size to your pad and rub it on the scratch area until it turns clear and gives you a squeaky sound. Work it in a bit more and then wipe off the residue with a microfiber cloth. You can also use those Kenko Polishing towels, they seem to be less aggressive than terry towels. After wiping, apply another 5 cent coin sized amount to the pad and work at the SAME area again. It will take you 2-4 passes to fix the swirl. If you do only 1 or 2 passes, you'll be hiding the swirls instead of removing. If you don't work it til it squeaks and let it dry before wiping off, you'll get even more swirls that you started with.
5) Apply your paint cleaner and chemical polish in a moderate amount. Make sure they are non-abrasive or very mildly abrasive. Work it in and leave in for a short while but not until it dries up. When it is still partially wet, wipe it off and buff. Buffing will remove the excess and what's left on the surface will be shiny.
6) When applying wax, less is better. You can wet your foam pad first and then squeeze all the water out. Then apply your wax to the pad. Then work it in the paint. If you see droplets of water on the paint, work it in until no more water is present. Leave to dry for about 15 minutes before buffing. If you apply too much, then you'll take a very long time to buff and you'll tend to apply more pressure to buff and end up with marring (holograms)
7) Your shine comes from your surface cleaning and chemical polish. Not the wax. The wax just maintains the shine.
8) NEVER USE RUBBING COMPOUND.

jamchen
07-09-2005, 08:35 PM
okie.... did my first detail today to my MDX... however instead of doing the steps recommended in the write up. i used this glaze called Astro Shield i bought from US.

and i have to say... geez this thing shines soo bright! very happy with the result but the only down side is that it took me nearly whole day to do the process... (washing, paint cleaning, and 2 coats of Astro Shield)
will try to post pics up later :D

**Ghost**
07-09-2005, 09:42 PM
i bought the polish for a "deeper, shinier color" and also cos i got quite a few scratch marks here and there.... i wasnt going to use the chip stick in any case...

I'm using

1. Kitten Deluxe Car shampoo gel
2. Turtle Polish
3. Kitten Wax

i got a whole bucket of kitten stuff for xmas so i'm using that firs.t..aint rich or hardcore enough to fork out 100 bucks on meguirs or autoglym

jamchen
07-09-2005, 10:15 PM
okay, here's pics, sorry its a link but its fast load :D
http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22308

aaronng
07-09-2005, 11:32 PM
i bought the polish for a "deeper, shinier color" and also cos i got quite a few scratch marks here and there.... i wasnt going to use the chip stick in any case...

I'm using

1. Kitten Deluxe Car shampoo gel
2. Turtle Polish
3. Kitten Wax

i got a whole bucket of kitten stuff for xmas so i'm using that firs.t..aint rich or hardcore enough to fork out 100 bucks on meguirs or autoglym
Test out the polish on a hidden spot first. See if it dulls the clear coat. If it doesn't then it should be ok. If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, then the only way to fix it is with a respray.

Nothing against Turtle Wax or Kitten. It's just that these brands sell rubbing compounds that are marketed as polishes. And that is a surefire way to destroy your paint. Your car shampoo and wax will be fine. Just test the polish first.

Meg's doesn't cost a hundred. :) just $15-20 per bottle/tube. Just don't buy 5 of them :D

The most important thing is to ensure that whatever you are using does not damage your paint. Because once the clearcoat is compromised, you'll be looking at at least $700 to respray.

**Ghost**
07-09-2005, 11:46 PM
cheers thanks!! i'll be sure to try it out first

Ferrari
08-09-2005, 07:09 AM
Thanks very much for the info, I will have to switch from using a foam applicator to wash with.

And I do luv NXT its the best I have used so far, it leaves no spots.

aaronng
08-09-2005, 09:19 AM
And the best thing about NXT is that it is so easy to apply and wipe off! :)

Flanderz
09-09-2005, 02:15 PM
Hey arrong, guessing ur in the car detailing game true?, cause you got some great advise to follow too? NXt wax I havn't tried yet but I have heard good results, Chip sticks??? stay well away. There is a way to get rid of deep scratches by masking off an area, buying ur paint from honda, borrowing a spray gun & sanding down that area with a fine grit papaer then spraying over it, kinda like an advanced way of doing a toutch up, good to have someone confident with a spray gun helping you out tho.

aaronng
09-09-2005, 03:24 PM
Hey arrong, guessing ur in the car detailing game true?, cause you got some great advise to follow too? NXt wax I havn't tried yet but I have heard good results, Chip sticks??? stay well away. There is a way to get rid of deep scratches by masking off an area, buying ur paint from honda, borrowing a spray gun & sanding down that area with a fine grit papaer then spraying over it, kinda like an advanced way of doing a toutch up, good to have someone confident with a spray gun helping you out tho.
That's what the mobile paint repairers do. But I don't think I dare go at my paint with wet sandpaper. I'd rather pay a pro who has experience to do it. But yes, once you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, the only way to repair it is with touch up paint (doesn't match) or the Flanderz method. :)

Vtec_inside
09-09-2005, 08:56 PM
if the scratch mark is not deep enuff to reach primer level. you can try, wet sanding and buffing with cutting compond. ie use wet/dry 2000 grit and sand down the scrtch mark. then buff with rotary buffer with a true cutting compound like megiure diamound cut. follow by swirl remover and then a coat of glase or wax.

j0nbubz
11-09-2005, 07:20 PM
that is great! really really really helpful for when i wash my car next!

h22a accord
12-09-2005, 09:47 AM
good reading in here! aaronng, your'e realing getitng into all this detailing stuff lately, good to see!

seeing as not many are posting pics i'll post some up.

deal was that i got some really bad waterspots on my bonnet after a sprinkler went on it and the water dried in the sunlight. They were terrible.

It took me about 30 mins to buff the bonnet buffing a 30cm x 30cm area at a time.

I used a rotary buffer with a medium density foam pad with farecla G3

then switched to a soft density finishing pad with 3M finnesse

then applied 2 coats of NXT wax by hand, wiping it off with microfibre cloth.

Notice that i removed the wiper washer's so they wouldnt get in the way.


all up the job took about hr and 15 mins. The spots were really bad, they had actually etched the clearcoat so i probably buffed half the clear off the paint just to remove them lol.


These pics were taken with direct sunlight on them...the paint is so shiny its hard to tell that there is sunlight on it!
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/76/19fr.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/1465/23ci.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/9639/30xk.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/2751/41ic.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/6281/62vj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)


these 2 are just after i finished under fluro lights.

http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/8254/74kt.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/7788/81ww.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)

**Ghost**
16-09-2005, 03:06 AM
h22aaccord... thats reallly focking shiny mate good job

just thought i'd come back and recommend 2 products

1. Kitten Polish/Wax

this is a littel bottle of magic. I know for a fact that its nowhere near as good as NXT or other premium products. But for a $9 bottle that doesnt require you to get out the electric buffer this thing is magic

2. Citrus magic plastic moisteriser (i'll get the proper name tomorrow)

I went crazy with this today. I was a bit dubious at first as it sed u can use it to gloss and protect both interior and exterior plastics + TYRES as well... but neway i decided to try

EXCELLENT RESULT... i sprayed it on all exterior plastics, the handbrake plastics, the tyres and wiped a small amount on the dash. Plastics are completely "soft", moisterised, without being oily and definitely shiney... will recommend to everyone...bargain at $15 a can

aaronng
16-09-2005, 01:58 PM
That citrus magic sounds interesting!

**Ghost**
16-09-2005, 03:17 PM
its called

Pyroil Citrus Plastics

its weird cos it has a pic of a tyre on it, but if u read the instructions its actually for all plastics, tyres, interior, trips

aaronng
16-09-2005, 03:25 PM
Where did you buy it from? The regular haunts at supercheap, repco, autobarn, autoone and BigW?

**Ghost**
16-09-2005, 03:30 PM
yeps!

aaronng
16-09-2005, 04:42 PM
Cool. Thanks!

fudge04au
18-09-2005, 07:06 AM
i was told truck wash is very good...if anyones heard of it, its used for most semi trailers/trucks etc , and duz a greater job then most the others.....
I think its called CT18

blubber
18-09-2005, 09:44 AM
Hey Flanderz good advice! I was going to get a guy to detail for me, now I might just try myself!

ToFuBoi
30-10-2005, 02:18 PM
great work flanderz and aaronng!!!

any tips on how to polish rims? products to use etc?

cheers!

aaronng
30-10-2005, 02:22 PM
Are your rims clearcoated or exposed metal?

ToFuBoi
30-10-2005, 09:02 PM
exposed metal

aaronng
30-10-2005, 10:03 PM
If it is very dull or oxidised, go for a nice metal polish suitable for the rim material. Usually it's either aluminium or magnesium alloy. I use Autosol for my polishing needs (on stainless steel). Read up on www.autopia.org a bit on uncoated rims. Those guys have a lot of info. I can't tell you absolutely what to do as my rims are clearcoated.

If it was me, depending on the rim condition, I'd use Autosol first it was heavily oxidised or has fine scratches. Then, after wiping off the residue, I'd use Meg's NXT metal polish. NXT's polish leaves behind a layer of protection to slow down oxidation. You will have to reapply once in a while as I'm sure the protection would get worn away by the environment. Of course, if it was just oxidation on the rim, you could skip directly to NXT metal polish. Cheapest I've seen locally is at Repco for $15 per tin.

I've read on Autopia that those guys also apply a layer of synthetic paint wax or wheel wax after polishing too.

scott1e
07-02-2006, 09:18 PM
Can anyone comment on 'Polyglaze Sparkling Wash'? Im not familiar with the product, my father picked me up some this afternoon and I was just wondering whether its any good to use?

EDIT: I also found a bottle of AmorAll Protectant Original with my bag of cleaning goodies.. What is this used for?

EDITx2: I have some 'Bar's Bugs' concentrate (75ml roughly) mixed in my windscreen water reservoir.. Will this damage/remove wax from windscreen?

Also my car, being 16 years old, has maybe 2 or 3 minor spots of rust on the bonet/boot in total, these little round spots are smaller than your little finger nail however I would like to know whether there is a quick fix to these spots? The problem with touchup paint is the rest of the paint has faded in 16 years and thus it would look a little weird.. Would using products mentioned in this thread damage these spots anymore? Or could they perhaps add as a protectant and seal the spots off.. I doubt these spots are spreading and they look more like one offs where something has dropped on the bonet/boot and not been removed over a period of time..


Cheers,
Scott

ITEAZR
20-02-2006, 03:08 PM
Meguairs wet look is bloody briliant make the car look smick good work on the thread now i no how to clean my car properly lol

Dulcinea
01-09-2006, 04:23 PM
If this process is followed properly, how long would you say the effect would last? Only because I don't know if I could be bothered spending a whole day doing it if it was only going to look gorgeous for a few days...
Absolutely fantastic write up by the way and everyone elses add-ons are really good too. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

aaronng
01-09-2006, 06:13 PM
Keep washing weekly, and the gloss will last about 2-3 months.

Dulcinea
02-09-2006, 03:48 PM
Thanks!

Mrkrooz
08-09-2006, 09:48 PM
N e 1 know how to get swirls out...?? or n e place in syd that can do it fo me...?? n how much it would roughly cost...??

aaronng
09-09-2006, 01:11 AM
N e 1 know how to get swirls out...?? or n e place in syd that can do it fo me...?? n how much it would roughly cost...??
To DIY, you need heaps of equipment and product. Not cheap. $150 for machine, $80 for pads from overseas and $20 on product. http://ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28089

Otherwise, you can try giving the SCW car wash place down at Broadway a call for prices.

Mrkrooz
12-09-2006, 05:08 PM
^^ so is it wiser to pay sum1 to do it for me.....??how much would it roughly cost...??

aaronng
12-09-2006, 11:29 PM
^^ so is it wiser to pay sum1 to do it for me.....??how much would it roughly cost...??
A proper swirl removal, glaze and wax should be at least $100.

Nikki
15-09-2006, 01:13 PM
my process....

1. drive to car park
2. tell mr. carpark to wash my car
3. go to work
4. pick up keys
5. go.. oo0o000 its so shiny!!!!

kayot1k
17-09-2006, 02:01 AM
its like 100 bucks ?

VTECACCORD
18-09-2006, 12:51 PM
my process....

1. drive to car park
2. tell mr. carpark to wash my car
3. go to work
4. pick up keys
5. go.. oo0o000 its so shiny!!!!


ur car must be swirl city, those guys have terrible car washing practices. You want a decent job do it urself via the two bucket method.

shebangs
18-09-2006, 11:01 PM
Can anyone tell me how to remove the old white wax/polish from my paint? I waxed the shit ages ago, by hand, and you can tell I got tired because on some minor corners there slight white lines. Evident cos my baby is black.

Will the Paint Cleaner get rid of it?

aaronng
18-09-2006, 11:24 PM
Can anyone tell me how to remove the old white wax/polish from my paint? I waxed the shit ages ago, by hand, and you can tell I got tired because on some minor corners there slight white lines. Evident cos my baby is black.

Will the Paint Cleaner get rid of it?
Paint cleaner might clean it off. The Meg's Step 1 paint cleaner is pretty mild, but give it a go.

shebangs
19-09-2006, 10:24 AM
Paint cleaner might clean it off. The Meg's Step 1 paint cleaner is pretty mild, but give it a go.

Question 2, how do you avoid it? :)
Obviously while buffing, I didnt notice it. So it must have been invisble invisible or something until the polish completely dried?

aaronng
19-09-2006, 12:43 PM
Question 2, how do you avoid it? :)
Obviously while buffing, I didnt notice it. So it must have been invisble invisible or something until the polish completely dried?
When you buff off, do the nooks and crannies too. That's the only way.

Hooman
09-12-2006, 11:12 PM
gonna try this on the weekend, cheers

crx51
24-02-2007, 08:43 AM
This is a very good post! I already had wax and polish but wanted to go out and buy clay bar etc the other day. Got to the shop and ended up leaving with nothing. Meguiars are bloody awesome. Every product i've ever used of theirs ive loved. However for a non-pro their range is confusing. They have step1,2,3 but then they have their 'best wax ever' and it doesnt have a step number and nor does swirlx etc I wanted to buy but ended up deciding to do my research first. Ill get it all next week for the birthday i reckon.

Anyway might share one experience with meguiars interior cleaner as not much talk has been done on the interior. I got wheels on my last car (03 mazda 6 classic) and took my original wheels home with me. One had to go inside car as no room in the boot (my crx fitted all four wheels though!!) and the guy at bobjanes put it in (id lined my seets with plastic bags).

Anyway long story short he wasnt careful and pushed the plastic bags aside and got 30cm by about 10cm of deep black brake dust and road grime all over my seat. The mazda 6 classic is velour seats too, not your normal material so i coulda cried as i thought id be stuck with the marks forever. I thought id give the meguiars a go though and sprayed it on. Left it a minute and wiped with a wet washer. VOILA!! I just started laughing, i could believe how effective it was, just lifted 100% of the stain straight out of the seat! Ill always use Meguiars after that!!!

aaronng
24-02-2007, 10:57 AM
^^ Good one! I don't think many of us have tried Meg's Interior cleaner (only their detailer). Thanks for your report!

directedfx
04-03-2007, 08:34 PM
Hey Aaronn,

Just want to say thanks for the detail you did on my car on the weekend. You did an amazing job and completely removed the annoying swirls out of the paint work. Its a damn shame your moving to melbourne, pretty much my whole street was lining up to get you to detail their car next. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into it mate, it didnt look like an easy job. I'm too scared to drive this car around now haha but also thanks for the tips on how to maintain it. Im gonna go out and get all those maguairs products. Hope things go well for you in Melbourne, id drive down just to get my car detailed again, amazing work, your the detail KING!!

2003 Black Honda Accord Euro
Modifications: Swirls Removed ;)

directedfx
04-03-2007, 08:34 PM
Hey Aaronn,

Just want to say thanks for the detail you did on my car on the weekend. You did an amazing job and completely removed the annoying swirls out of the paint work. Its a damn shame your moving to melbourne, pretty much my whole street was lining up to get you to detail their car next. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into it mate, it didnt look like an easy job. I'm too scared to drive this car around now haha but also thanks for the tips on how to maintain it. Im gonna go out and get all those maguairs products. Hope things go well for you in Melbourne, id drive down just to get my car detailed again, amazing work, your the detail KING!!

2003 Black Honda Accord Euro
Modifications: Swirls Removed ;)

Dell99
23-04-2007, 01:05 PM
how can i tell if the product i am using is a rubbing compund. I read the back and it doesn't say so i guess its safe but i thought i would ask your opinion.

AutoGlym Resin Polish

shebangs
23-04-2007, 04:08 PM
Any Professional Detailers in Brisbane want to do my car?

I would take it to a 'professional detailing place' - but we all know they hire fresh out of high school kids to do the actual work.

tommmoe
05-05-2007, 05:12 PM
ok just washed my car, polished my car AND waxed it.
went to the shops, came home and found dirt on my car allready. :|

Nikki
05-05-2007, 08:31 PM
ur car must be swirl city, those guys have terrible car washing practices. You want a decent job do it urself via the two bucket method.



nope. no swirl marks.

Dell99
06-05-2007, 01:13 PM
I finally tried the claybar method, however i would like to know there are some baked in marks there that can't come out. Meaning.... i can see the baked marks, and i tried scrubbing it a few times

Dell99
08-05-2007, 07:26 PM
any ideas on how to remove em

riruiz_88
15-10-2007, 12:53 PM
damn this is good stuff mate

riruiz_88
02-11-2007, 07:18 PM
ok im ready to give my car the care it needs 2morrow. what i wanted to know was, when i am applying glaze/polish to the car, how long should i leave it on before i wipe the polish off?

aaronng
02-11-2007, 07:32 PM
ok im ready to give my car the care it needs 2morrow. what i wanted to know was, when i am applying glaze/polish to the car, how long should i leave it on before i wipe the polish off?

Glaze/polish is not a wipe on and leave to dry product. You have to work it in with some elbow grease and when it is all worked in, you wipe it off immediately.

riruiz_88
02-11-2007, 08:05 PM
fair enough then, so how do i know when it has fully worked in? as for wax, approx how long does it need to be on before wipe off?

aaronng
02-11-2007, 09:07 PM
fair enough then, so how do i know when it has fully worked in? as for wax, approx how long does it need to be on before wipe off?

Do 1/2 a panel at a time and when it looks nice and spread out evenly, I go over it once again (without adding anymore glaze to the pad). Wipe off immediately after that.

For wax, it depends on the weather, but I leave it for 15-20 minutes.

riruiz_88
04-11-2007, 07:32 PM
my car turned out pretty good, actually better than i expected but there is definitely room for improvement. just want to know something, with the micro fiber cloth, how am i able to wash this because as you know wax and water do not mix? and aaronng what product do you use for your windows, because the one i used was a cheapy one and it smeared? preferably meguiars? dont look good

steve88
04-11-2007, 07:40 PM
use one cloth to apply (polish) and one to wipe off (buff). also you know youve polished enough when your polishing so hard that its starting to actually buff off (then that means ur wiping too hard and prob need more polish)... also, try using sealent as well as wax i found my car too stay clean for about a month that way! (sealents meant to last longer but im a bit of a noob when it comes to applying it, so surely once im good at it it'll last longer)

aaronng
04-11-2007, 08:01 PM
use one cloth to apply (polish) and one to wipe off (buff). also you know youve polished enough when your polishing so hard that its starting to actually buff off (then that means ur wiping too hard and prob need more polish)... also, try using sealent as well as wax i found my car too stay clean for about a month that way! (sealents meant to last longer but im a bit of a noob when it comes to applying it, so surely once im good at it it'll last longer)

I disagree with using a microfibre cloth to apply polish/glaze or sealant. First, you quickly load up the microfibre cloth and it works no better than a cheap discount shop cloth. Second, you end up killing the microfibre cloth and it doesn't perform like it should the next time you use it. Use a foam or microfibre application pad instead.

aaronng
04-11-2007, 08:04 PM
my car turned out pretty good, actually better than i expected but there is definitely room for improvement. just want to know something, with the micro fiber cloth, how am i able to wash this because as you know wax and water do not mix? and aaronng what product do you use for your windows, because the one i used was a cheapy one and it smeared? preferably meguiars? dont look good

Use a liquid laundry detergent diluted in water. The #1 rule when washing microfibre is to never use softener. Even those dryer sheets. Other than that, you can use hot or cold water (I prefer hot to soften the wax), scrub it good with your hand, toss it into the spin cycle and then optionally into a dryer.

For windows, I use Meg's NXT glass cleaner. I think it is important to have a 2nd clean cloth to wipe the windows after you first work the glass cleaner in. Try using 2 cloths with your glass cleaner before going out to buy the Meg's cleaner. If it works, you save money. :)

riruiz_88
04-11-2007, 08:07 PM
yeh i know only apply the polish/glaze and wax with an applicator pad. its actually easy :). but the above post/s dont really help me with my original question. i want to know what the process is on how to wash the micro' towels but without damaging them?

1996ek1
04-11-2007, 10:31 PM
Would meg's lamb wool wash mits be recommended?

wkdteg
04-11-2007, 10:40 PM
Would meg's lamb wool wash mits be recommended?

thought that was only for washing ur car?

aaronng
04-11-2007, 10:41 PM
yeh i know only apply the polish/glaze and wax with an applicator pad. its actually easy :). but the above post/s dont really help me with my original question. i want to know what the process is on how to wash the micro' towels but without damaging them?

Read my next post after that one about the applicator pad. :)

aaronng
04-11-2007, 10:43 PM
Would meg's lamb wool wash mits be recommended?

It's good for washing cars. I use that.

EuroAccord13
05-11-2007, 01:53 AM
Would meg's lamb wool wash mits be recommended?

The other side with the netting is for washing glass...

riruiz_88
05-11-2007, 07:04 AM
The other side with the netting is for washing glass...

i thought thats what it was for, but i didnt really use it cause i thought that it might scratch my windows? anybody shed some light please

riruiz_88
05-11-2007, 07:09 AM
Read my next post after that one about the applicator pad. :)

thanks man i didnt see your post my bad. i just soaked it in water and ringed it out as much as i could and left it to naturally dry under cover. but i will do that next time ey :thumbsup:
and i will try that meg next window cleaner next time aswell. also for the 2 towels that you talk about, would 1 be for applying the product and the other towel to buff the window yeh?

aaronng
05-11-2007, 09:47 AM
i thought thats what it was for, but i didnt really use it cause i thought that it might scratch my windows? anybody shed some light please

It won't scratch your windows. It was originally for removing tar spots and bug poo off paint, but it will scratch paint. So I only use it for the windows when washing the car.

aaronng
05-11-2007, 09:48 AM
thanks man i didnt see your post my bad. i just soaked it in water and ringed it out as much as i could and left it to naturally dry under cover. but i will do that next time ey :thumbsup:
and i will try that meg next window cleaner next time aswell. also for the 2 towels that you talk about, would 1 be for applying the product and the other towel to buff the window yeh?

What I do is:

Exterior glass
Spray the glass cleaner on, use 1 towel to work it around and buff off. Use 2nd towel to make sure it is really clean.

Interior glass
Spray the glass cleaner on the 1st towel and wipe it on the glass. Use the 2nd one to buff off.

riruiz_88
06-11-2007, 09:21 PM
i was lookin at my wheels today and it made my car seem not as clean. i want to buy a wheel cleaner, what would you recommend? my rims have a clear coat on them, so i would want the product to be clear coat safe.

aaronng
06-11-2007, 10:16 PM
i was lookin at my wheels today and it made my car seem not as clean. i want to buy a wheel cleaner, what would you recommend? my rims have a clear coat on them, so i would want the product to be clear coat safe.

Diluted liquid laundry detergent in a spray bottle and an alloy wheel brush.

riruiz_88
07-11-2007, 07:30 AM
damn man you have an answer for everything, thanks for the tip. ill buy some liquid detergent today, and ill use it as a wheel cleaner and a micro fiber cleaner (not a softener)

nvmee
18-11-2007, 09:33 PM
thanx for the diy. helped me heaps. cheers

Samm928
23-12-2007, 10:09 AM
A+ write up

minix33
26-12-2007, 03:12 AM
nice write up..
for me..
when im lazy [which i generally am]
its a quick rinse then meguairs speed detailer.. that stuff works wonders.

power_of_dreams
26-12-2007, 03:29 PM
Good writeup, shame about water restrictions though..

riruiz_88
26-12-2007, 07:10 PM
that shouldnt stop you man, in Brisbane we are on level 6 restrictions. i still wash my car, although i go to a car wash. its a small price to pay but it still does the job

power_of_dreams
26-12-2007, 07:36 PM
Yeah but no sponges/buckets are allowed at the car wash. Not to say I don't use a sponge rather than that broom thing, but people get pissed off when you take so long.

In the old days before water restrictions you could wash your car to perfection!

riruiz_88
28-12-2007, 01:22 PM
yeh thats tru ey. but i always go either late at night or real early in the morning. its perfect cause if u go at night its only taxi's that come in, or if u go in the morning u dont get many people

steve88
30-12-2007, 05:59 PM
do you guys find that after a good hard wax polish and even sealent you get alot of dust stuck on your car and that shit accumulates fairly quickly?

riruiz_88
30-12-2007, 07:28 PM
yeh i did notice that too, probs cause its kind of sticky. it would be a good idea to invest in a car cover, im gonna get one dont know when though haha.

Flanderz
07-09-2009, 02:12 PM
I must just say guys, I have not been on these forums for 4 years, but have recently bought a 90 CRX 1.6 (work for Ford car sales now, not detailing) and have been reading for a bit as the people on these forums were always very helpful and polite, amazing to see my car wash guide still up here and being used today. brings back memories of my integra soob soob.....

wkdteg
07-09-2009, 03:39 PM
LoL matty yeah? fark i still remember ya! its been ages
talk about diggin up an old thread!

Jaime
07-09-2009, 03:53 PM
Two thumbs up for your write up...it helps alot.

kera_1
07-09-2009, 03:55 PM
sorry guys i know this is a DIY section but is there a good shop in Melbourne that can help me take out some really bad spider web scratches off my car because my whole car needs a good detail. I'd thought I would let a pro do it first then I'll take care of it in years time.

aaronng
07-09-2009, 04:40 PM
sorry guys i know this is a DIY section but is there a good shop in Melbourne that can help me take out some really bad spider web scratches off my car because my whole car needs a good detail. I'd thought I would let a pro do it first then I'll take care of it in years time.

Damien at Final Inspection.
http://www.finalinspection.com.au/

i-jrdm
07-09-2009, 10:19 PM
my lord. now thats one top write up :thumbsup: awesome brotha!