home made camber kit

[splinter]

For those who are lowering, Im thinking how hard can it be to extend the rear, top ball joint rod by replace it with a thicker rod. has anyone done this? it seems to be a simple job with a welder. lots of people are paying ~$300 plus instalation for the rear camber kit.

[EuroAccord13]

Let's put it in the Technical Section shall we? :)

[yfin]

For those who are lowering, Im thinking how hard can it be to extend the rear, top ball joint rod by replace it with a thicker rod. has anyone done this? it seems to be a simple job with a welder. lots of people are paying ~$300 plus instalation for the rear camber kit.

the manufacturers of these kits know what they are doing. They have the R&D and hopefully the skill to make the kits safely and properly. When you do it yourself it is a whole new ball game. Can you be sure your kit will not snap when driving and cause an accident?

Re the price - if you look on ebay the ingalls kit is $139USD. Add shipping and it isn't unreasonable.

[Mike_]

Can you be sure your kit will not snap when driving and cause an accident?

If you make it yourself then there's nobody to sue if it does!

[VT3C]

hahah.. manufacturers also charge huge amounts of cash for surprisingly simple parts that are inexpensive and easy to manufacture. an example: over $1000 for a "ultra-high-tech" muffler that's just 2 stainless steel tubes (one perforated) with some stainless steel or fibreglass packing..

Having seen the D2 camber kit, apart from it's bling anodised alloy construction, essentially it's just a bolt with lockable ends that have fixtures to the mount points.

I think a competent welder could easilly make a pair of these.

[splinter]

yeh its matter of principle :p

hey does anyone know wat sort of metal these linkages use? would it be mildsteel equivalent?

[smoknhothonda]

Manufacturers also know what grade of steel to use for a certain application.

If you use the wrong grade of steel for the wrong application, it can cause failure.

Something like a 4140 grade would be ideal, and avoid getting too much temperature into the component when welding, as this recrystallises the grain structure.

[viperx]

mild steel sounds like a bad idea...

[VT3C]

Something like a 4140 grade would be ideal, and avoid getting too much temperature into the component when welding, as this recrystallises the grain structure.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

the D2 one uses a high-tensile steel threadded headless bolt with hardened anodised alloy nuts and the 'spacer' in the middle is alloy.

ask KB to post pics of his so you can just copy it.

[keric_02]

i dont know about doing it yourself, especially welding on bits... sounds too dangerous to drive it... i'd leave those stuff to the pros, just shop around first and get the best price :)

[splinter]

who Kb, if you are KB would you post up a pick please. we'll see if its doable.

cant go wrong with bit of over engineering. wondering if this will void warranty or insurance?

[saxman]

why even bother going that far... if you remove the bolts holding that upper rod in the rear, and place a few washers in between the rod mount and the body, it pushes the camber back out to where it can be properly adjusted. Cheaper, and no messing with welding.

And before I hear "but the manufactures don't do it so that must be wrong!"

guess what... there are manufactures that sell rear camber kits that are exactly that...a pack of washers and a couple shiny bolts.

[CTR Coupe]

yeah that will fix rear camber. these nutters are talking about front camber

[saxman]

um... no they aren't


For those who are lowering, Im thinking how hard can it be to extend the rear, top ball joint rod by replace it with a thicker rod. has anyone done this? it seems to be a simple job with a welder. lots of people are paying ~$300 plus instalation for the rear camber kit.