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View Full Version : How good is this Sub and Amp? *UPDATE* plz read last post.



Usual Suspect
26-02-2004, 12:47 AM
"Kicker KX75.2 2 Channel car amplifier. Bridgable to one channel and is in mint Condition cosmetically. Works as new, only 4 months old $180 ONO. Kicker Comp C12 12" 150 Watts RMS Subwoofer plus sealed box. 4 months old. Barely used to its full potential. Only run at 75 Watts RMS. Still in perfect working condition $250 ONO. If all items purchased as one package will sell for $400."

Add in the paper over ere. Any good, let me know.

Cheers.

euro77
26-02-2004, 06:26 AM
I have no doubt Kicker is good, but don't know about the price man.
Wait for FHRX to reply or pm him the question ;)

Fhrx
26-02-2004, 06:40 AM
Not a bad deal so long as you can be assured of their quality.

Kicker stuff is quite good, just make sure you test them both thoroughly before buying. ;)

Usual Suspect
26-02-2004, 07:31 PM
Im a n00b when it comes to amps and subs, so will the amp be driving the sub at the subs full power?

euro77
26-02-2004, 10:43 PM
it depends on the amp. The sub is rated at 150wrms, so it's best to give at least 150wrms power to the amp.

The amp seems like a 2 channel amp, with 75wrms per channel? so if you bridge them, it might output 150wrms (must check the spec), so it should be just right for the sub. Be mindful though about the sub impedance load. you don't want to end up loading the amp with a lower load that the amp can handle, otherwise it heats up quickly and will shut down, or worse, blow up :x

Usual Suspect
27-02-2004, 02:16 AM
I might give this one a miss. Been talking to some people and i reckon the route to go would be either a Type R 15" and a good amp to drive it. Few things on CAA for sale like 2 x JL 10W0's and 2 x JL W3D4 and also two Alpine Type S's. What ya reckon of them?

Im looking for some good bass, not earth shattering, but good, really good bass as what i listen to is full of bass, ie techno/club/dance/trance/dnb etc.

Fhrx
27-02-2004, 07:02 AM
Make sure you email me before you buy anything because we're always selling ex-demo stock cheap. :)

Usual Suspect
27-02-2004, 11:38 AM
i would but shipping is a bitch cross country. Amps arent too much more, and id be willing to pay that lil extra to get an amp from you seen as i know i wouldnt be getting ripped of, but shipping for a sub is like $50 or something around their.

I will email you, but i still need help on what to get.

euro77
27-02-2004, 01:05 PM
What's the budget?
So you are looking to get an amp and a sub?
Will you install them yourself? or get someone else to do it.
Is the installation cost part of the budget?

Becareful when buying a sub and an amp. You don't want to buy a sub that won't give the proper load to your amp. do post first before buying :D

I can definitely recommend JL W3, but it comes in 3 varieties, i.e. D2, D4 & D6. a single D2 can give load to the amp either 4 ohm or 1 ohm, a single D4 can give 2 ohm or 8 ohm, and a single D6 can give 3 ohm or 12 ohm, depending on how you wire them. So either you decide which amp first to get, then get the correct sub, or get the sub then find the amp that will do the job.

With the amp, do you just want to power the sub with it?

Usual Suspect
27-02-2004, 03:39 PM
Budget is probably around 500-700, but no definites, have to see if i scam money of my rents otherwise ill have to dig into my savings.

Yes im looking to get an amp and sub or two subs, depending on the size and output.

Installation will be done by me but if something came with a box it would help a lot. I want to end up making a flase floor instead of just having a box, but im afraid that might cut the effectivness of the sub down.

Installation aint part of the budget, i doubt it would cozt much to install as we can get most htings needed, ie wood, good gauge wire and all the bs for free, perk of having a dad in the auto industry :D.

And yeah the amp would be just to power the sub or subs, i doubt my fronts or rear's need an amp to drive them.

Im pretty keen on the JL's, but the guy wants like 500 for em, 2 in a pro box i think. He is in perth so postage is not a matter. Then it leaves me with only 200 do find a decent amp to drive them.

If i find something that looks good ill come back to you lot and see if it all matches well and if the amp will drive the sub porperly and all that stuff.

Thanks for the help so far boys :D.

traNce_gl
27-02-2004, 03:54 PM
ey i have a kicker setup its great depends on what music u like if u like rap and rn b its excellent for that but if ur into hi nrg beats trance dance its ok but its not good with kicker ...but u just get a better amp to improve that

that price is good .. the amp prooly need upgrading that the model before mine

euro77
29-02-2004, 05:58 PM
I don't think you really need 2 subs. 1 is usually more than enough, and it costs a lot cheaper to get a decent power to 1 sub than to 2 subs :D

Try www.auscaraudio.com, they normally have people selling good subs & amps there.

Fhrx
29-02-2004, 09:42 PM
I have two ex-demo Kicker I10's here if you want them. :)

Usual Suspect
01-03-2004, 01:43 PM
but the shipping, the shipping!

euro77
01-03-2004, 04:22 PM
How much is the shipping anyway? if you can save $100 and pay shipping $50, why not? :D

Fhrx
01-03-2004, 09:31 PM
Registered and insured shipping for your average sub to east cost is about $20, to west coast is about $30. We usually go halves anyway. :)

Usual Suspect
01-03-2004, 11:51 PM
How much is the shipping anyway? if you can save $100 and pay shipping $50, why not?

Indeed why not.

Well, im interested then. How much do you want for them?

Fhrx
02-03-2004, 02:54 AM
Email us for prices on things champ. :)

fhrx777@bigpond.net

Usual Suspect
08-03-2004, 10:07 PM
Im offering some guy here in Perth 100 for a JL10W0, i think thats it.

Any good, let me know.

Adrian.

Usual Suspect
15-03-2004, 06:36 PM
comon guys elp me out ere.

RiP CITA :~(
16-03-2004, 05:55 AM
sorry but i wouldnt even piss on a Kicker Comp C12 model, but there crap kicker make a great amp :P , but u sould get a better sub even the older mtx thunder ser would do a better job and u could find 1 of those for a great price ..... btw look for the black cone "older but better" not the silver 1's.

fozee
16-03-2004, 11:06 PM
If you run the sub underpower you are more likely to cause it damage.

IMHO stay away from Kicker products.
I had a two channel amp and Splits and they where sooo bad

For bass look for Earthquake, Orion, JL, Rockford Fosgate..... the list goes on


If your after top quality aural pleasure you cant go past DLS or Clarion.

I can hook up DLS, Clarion or Fusion products. All ligit. Garunteed a good price ;)

McChook
17-03-2004, 12:00 AM
I've turned into a Boston A. Subwoofer fan...
Focal subs are nice, too.

I still like my Rockford subwoofer though.

fozee
17-03-2004, 07:20 AM
Focal is hella expensive though. Their SPL subs look like they are from another planet

Boston Acoustics are great value too, all there products have really good clarity and handling

poid
17-03-2004, 07:25 AM
If you run the sub underpower you are more likely to cause it damage.

IMHO stay away from Kicker products.
I had a two channel amp and Splits and they where sooo bad

For bass look for Earthquake, Orion, JL, Rockford Fosgate..... the list goes on


If your after top quality aural pleasure you cant go past DLS or Clarion.

I can hook up DLS, Clarion or Fusion products. All ligit. Garunteed a good price ;)

underpowering wont cause damage mate, its the clipping that the individual causes when turning the gains up that little bit too much that causes damage, due to the extra heat generated by the clipped signal. Underpowering on its own, with no clipping, wont cause damage.

DLS are a quality brand, i wouldn't lump clarion in there with them though...Clarion have some nice HU's, but not much else that can be in the same class as a DLS, Focal, Dynaudio, Orion etc ;)

fozee
17-03-2004, 08:38 AM
Sorry i meant to specify Clarion only for head units...
i have a Clarion DRX9675z head unit and it is amazing!!!

Yeah i see your point but i was coming from a different angle.
If youve got an undersize amp, and your trying to run it as hard as it will go to provide the power to the sub, then yes clipping and distortion of the signal will occur and that is what will damage the sub... bur out the voice coil

sorry should have explained it better


cheers poid

Usual Suspect
17-03-2004, 07:44 PM
what about this JL10W0 amp for a hundred, the guy accepted, good buy or not?

KB
23-03-2004, 12:37 PM
"Any good, let me know."

Cheers.

Dude I use that in that 75.2 Kicker amp in my car to run my front splits.
Mine puts out an non RMS value of 118 watts. The guy at the store says it puts out an rms value of about 20 wrms( simular to that of my existing head unit which is a 50 watt *4 pioneer.) I dunno what the output is bridged.... but im sure it isn't too much more :shock: It makes the splits sound better cause the chip inside the kicker amp is better than the head units. In my opinion i wouldn't use that amp to run a sub cause i could probley fart bigger bass notes than that amp could produce. my 2 cents

sava da money and get something good.
btw here in perth I got a clarion 12 inch sub (new) and clarion 200.2 amp(new) for 299$ on special at westside car audio. and it cranks. (puts out 220 wrms BRIDGED. :P

:) see ya

fozee
23-03-2004, 01:01 PM
For anyone thats interested or doesnt know:

conversion factor of Watts peak to peak to WRMS is .707

example:
100 Watts pk is 70.7WRMS


i think that is right hehe

euro77
23-03-2004, 05:56 PM
For anyone thats interested or doesnt know:

conversion factor of Watts peak to peak to WRMS is .707

example:
100 Watts pk is 70.7WRMS


i think that is right hehe

I don't think that's correct. It all depends on the equipment. 1000W Boss amp doesn't make 707WRMS, not even close!

fozee
23-03-2004, 06:18 PM
'Boss'.......

Claimed is different to actual incar performance.
Power Out depends on the load placed on the amp during testing and supply voltage and of course advertising techniques amongst other things.

Incar @ 12 Volts,

Bench tests are done @ 14.4 Volts, providing the amp with a higher DCC voltage therefore a higher Output Power.

This was taken from 'JAYCAR Electronics Forum'

** rms value
Rms value of an AC sine wave is 0.707 times the peak value. This is the effective value of an AC sine wave. The rms value of a sine wave is the value of a DC voltage that would produce the same amount of heat in a heating element.

** watt
Unit of electrical power required to do work at the rate of one joule per second. One watt of power is expended when one ampere of direct current flows through a resistance of one ohm. In an AC circuit, true power is the product of effective volts and effective amperes, multiplied by the power factor.

Im always open to learn if you have a different view,
after all its how we learn

wynode
23-03-2004, 06:31 PM
** rms value
Rms value of an AC sine wave is 0.707 times the peak value. This is the effective value of an AC sine wave. The rms value of a sine wave is the value of a DC voltage that would produce the same amount of heat in a heating element.

Alternatively 1/SQRoot(2)


** watt
Unit of electrical power required to do work at the rate of one joule per second. One watt of power is expended when one ampere of direct current flows through a resistance of one ohm. In an AC circuit, true power is the product of effective volts and effective amperes, multiplied by the power factor.

A good old definition! but i'm not sure if this directly applies to manufacturers claims for a particular amp!?!?

fozee
23-03-2004, 06:50 PM
It help someone understand that Watts are simply a measure of power.
Not something to go by with reference to your amps output.

How else can i say whatever the manufacturer rates your amp at is not a precise/acurate account of what it will actually pump out for a given load...

Car Audio mags that do amp reviews always compare the stated output to the output made by the amp on the bench.