jimmeh
17-09-2005, 01:00 AM
reference http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm
Here is a question answer format to help the world understand how motors work and how to use them most reliably. This part on breaking in a motor is opinion and the parts on why certain things happen is based on experience and sound scientific principles.
What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"? I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that customers "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent. So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.
#1 I got a brand new block/engine and I want to break it in properly. What should I do first? A most common question. The answer is surprisingly simplistic. First you have to inspect the hone finish of the block your breaking in. What grit was it honed to? 500? 400? If the hatchings on it are pronounced and clear, you most likely have a bad machined block that will require some break-in to smooth it out. If I got a block that had a very smooth hone finish, such as a plateau finished block (IB), this is what you do. When you get the motor in the car, and are ready to start it up make sure you have an oil pressure gauge installed. Install a wide band O2 sensor to read 02 ratio BEFORE YOU START IT. Then unplug the distributor and crank it over until you get oil pressure, should take a short time, under a minute sometimes. Then plug the distributor back in, and start it up with whatever program you have. Notice the air fuel ratio. The car is warming up, so its going to read a little rich at first. When the car fully warms up you want the air/fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Immediately adjust your tuning to make it 14.7 at idle right away. Use a injector multiplier change if you have management, if you don't, use a fuel pressure regulator for starts... Then when you get the car at 14.7 at idle, and make it idle at around 800-900 RPM, make sure the timing is at about 13-16 degrees. Now, with the air/fuel ratio meter working, take the car for a short drive on the dyno, or the street, driving as you would normally. DO NOT put the throttle past say 50%. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is around 14.7:1, but not over 15:1 all throughout the gears up to say, 4500 RPM. Now your car is drive able. You can drive it within those parameters ONLY. Which in English means: less than 50% throttle, and under 4500 RPMS ONLY. Until you tune for whatever area you want to drive in. You could literally drive the car 100k miles as long as you don't go outside those parameters and it should be fine. Air fuel ratio and timing is good...its good.
#2 Now I can drive it, when do I tune it? Well, there are 1000 opinions out on this one, but we do it this way, and its absolutely proven. We drive the car a few miles on the street maybe 50-100 miles? at 14.7:1 to make sure there are no problems with the motor, no coolant leaks, etc... Your going to want to drive it to no more than 50% throttle, up and down the RPM's at all kinds of variable throttle positions. 0-50%....then it goes straight on the dyno, where we start the real tuning. Basically, I drive it to see if there are any problems, not to break in the thing so to speak.
#3 How do you tune a motor now that I am on the dyno? I will right an expended section on this, but follow these parameters. Start fine tuning your normal throttle, like freeway driving, 20%, 30%, 40%..60% throttle, 70% throttle, etc...then go to like 2k RPM and do a pull to say 5K RPM full throttle. For all motor, adjust the air/fuel at FULL throttle all throughout the band to anywhere from 13:1 to say 13.5:1. That's pretty safe. If you start to floor it at 2k, and it reads 18:1 Air/Fuel ratio, IMMEDIATELY LET OFF! You do a full pass like that its disaster! Boy you REALLY have to trust your tuner. SERIOUS! Ok. So then after up to 5k is tuned, you go to 6k, then 7, then 8, then max. Of course, when your adjusting for 5k, your adjusting everything up to redline, even though you have not tried that yet...chances are, its going to need it too. Your not going to need -20% at 5k, then +10% at 8k in my experience...based off a stock map. It will generally go all up, or all down. Generally. So now your done.
http://www.importbuilders.com/images/overheated.jpg
I got a brand new block, fully built and its burning a lot of oil, WHY?
A picture explains why, the piston is all scarred up, which means your sleeve is all scarred up too!! the cylinder walls are no longer even/smooth, and oil can get past the oil ring and your burning it. In the above case, with 1-2 pistons like this, about 1 quart a week. This is a real bad case.
Here is a question answer format to help the world understand how motors work and how to use them most reliably. This part on breaking in a motor is opinion and the parts on why certain things happen is based on experience and sound scientific principles.
What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"? I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that customers "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent. So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.
#1 I got a brand new block/engine and I want to break it in properly. What should I do first? A most common question. The answer is surprisingly simplistic. First you have to inspect the hone finish of the block your breaking in. What grit was it honed to? 500? 400? If the hatchings on it are pronounced and clear, you most likely have a bad machined block that will require some break-in to smooth it out. If I got a block that had a very smooth hone finish, such as a plateau finished block (IB), this is what you do. When you get the motor in the car, and are ready to start it up make sure you have an oil pressure gauge installed. Install a wide band O2 sensor to read 02 ratio BEFORE YOU START IT. Then unplug the distributor and crank it over until you get oil pressure, should take a short time, under a minute sometimes. Then plug the distributor back in, and start it up with whatever program you have. Notice the air fuel ratio. The car is warming up, so its going to read a little rich at first. When the car fully warms up you want the air/fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Immediately adjust your tuning to make it 14.7 at idle right away. Use a injector multiplier change if you have management, if you don't, use a fuel pressure regulator for starts... Then when you get the car at 14.7 at idle, and make it idle at around 800-900 RPM, make sure the timing is at about 13-16 degrees. Now, with the air/fuel ratio meter working, take the car for a short drive on the dyno, or the street, driving as you would normally. DO NOT put the throttle past say 50%. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is around 14.7:1, but not over 15:1 all throughout the gears up to say, 4500 RPM. Now your car is drive able. You can drive it within those parameters ONLY. Which in English means: less than 50% throttle, and under 4500 RPMS ONLY. Until you tune for whatever area you want to drive in. You could literally drive the car 100k miles as long as you don't go outside those parameters and it should be fine. Air fuel ratio and timing is good...its good.
#2 Now I can drive it, when do I tune it? Well, there are 1000 opinions out on this one, but we do it this way, and its absolutely proven. We drive the car a few miles on the street maybe 50-100 miles? at 14.7:1 to make sure there are no problems with the motor, no coolant leaks, etc... Your going to want to drive it to no more than 50% throttle, up and down the RPM's at all kinds of variable throttle positions. 0-50%....then it goes straight on the dyno, where we start the real tuning. Basically, I drive it to see if there are any problems, not to break in the thing so to speak.
#3 How do you tune a motor now that I am on the dyno? I will right an expended section on this, but follow these parameters. Start fine tuning your normal throttle, like freeway driving, 20%, 30%, 40%..60% throttle, 70% throttle, etc...then go to like 2k RPM and do a pull to say 5K RPM full throttle. For all motor, adjust the air/fuel at FULL throttle all throughout the band to anywhere from 13:1 to say 13.5:1. That's pretty safe. If you start to floor it at 2k, and it reads 18:1 Air/Fuel ratio, IMMEDIATELY LET OFF! You do a full pass like that its disaster! Boy you REALLY have to trust your tuner. SERIOUS! Ok. So then after up to 5k is tuned, you go to 6k, then 7, then 8, then max. Of course, when your adjusting for 5k, your adjusting everything up to redline, even though you have not tried that yet...chances are, its going to need it too. Your not going to need -20% at 5k, then +10% at 8k in my experience...based off a stock map. It will generally go all up, or all down. Generally. So now your done.
http://www.importbuilders.com/images/overheated.jpg
I got a brand new block, fully built and its burning a lot of oil, WHY?
A picture explains why, the piston is all scarred up, which means your sleeve is all scarred up too!! the cylinder walls are no longer even/smooth, and oil can get past the oil ring and your burning it. In the above case, with 1-2 pistons like this, about 1 quart a week. This is a real bad case.