DIY JDM B18C ITR Engine Install in EG Civic

[ECU-MAN]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!





Aim: to make car go faster
Required: lots of tools, engine hoist, some hours to sleep
Steps: lots, see bellow
Other comments: dont get a cage trailer for your front cut !!!!


In this article Ill describe how to install a B18C in an EG Civic, its note quite step by step, but it should give you an idea of the work required to do such a convertion.

- its best to take the car 1st to an aircon place and have them vac out the refrigerant from the aircon system.

start by getting your front cut to the workshop. dont make the same mistake as me and get a trailer with a cage.

http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b116-med.jpg

didnt quite fit out the front, had to sort of tilt and lift, waisted alot of time.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b126-med.jpg

Removing the engine from the front cut was fun, just be carefull not to damage anything as you may need to use it in the install or you can sell off bits that are left over.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b131-med.jpg

I gave the engine a bit of a pressure clean once it was out,

1. to get rid of alot of crap that was on the engine.
2. to make it look nice :)



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b147-med.jpg

Next step is to remove the engine from the EG




http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b152-med.jpg


- Remove the bonnet, drain the gearbox oil, engine oil, coolant, power stearing fluid, and the clutch hydraulic fluid. remeber to get the aircon gas removed by a aircon place, prior to starting the job.
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********

- Remove battery, remove the radiator, Aircon Condensor, power stearing pump and resivoir, intake system. ( red circles ) splash guard

- Undo the brake booster vac line, fuel lines, heater hoses, accelerator cable, wiring loom from both LH and RH shock towers for PGMFI and ACC, air con lines from compressor. clutch slave cylinder hose, shift linkage, exhaust. earth strap from rocca and MT. batt positive terminal from fues box.
- remove drive shafts. see photo bellow



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b166-med.jpg


Support the engine with the engine hoist and undo the engine mounts. located roughly in blue circles above.

lift engine out, make sure there is nothing atached to the engine as you lift it out.




http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b174-med.jpg


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b178-med.jpg
now its time to remove the D series rear center engine mount and the High pressure power stearing line.

I also installed a K beam support bar the front cut had on it. ( red circle in picture bellow )



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b181-med.jpg



Install the ITR high pressure power stearing hose as this lines up perfectly with the B18C. notice it has a pressure switch on it ( red circle above pic )

then fit the ITR Rear Center engine mount on the cross member.

I decided to give the engine bay a pressure clean at this stage to make it look nice. then where ready to drop the beast in.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b182-med.jpg




do up the two center mounts to hold the engine in the bay


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b197-med.jpg



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b196-med.jpg



now do up the two lower mounts.


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b198-med.jpg


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b199-med.jpg



now do up the center rear mount, ( have fun )
no pic of this one


now its time to start connecting everything , like the power stearing, vac lines, RHS ( driver side ) engine to tower loom, fuel lines, heater hoses. earth strap at gearbox, clutch slave hose. fit air intake of your choice. all these just line right up with no mods. gotta love Honda ay :)

install the radiator and the condensor. you will have to ghetto the compressor hoses for the air con system, but they will bolt in to seal up the aircon system till you take it to get them modified when regassed. do up the earth strap to the rocca cover.

remove the D series shift linkage and install the ITR linkage. install both drive shafts.



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b206-med.jpg




replace the oil filter, and fill up the
engine oil
gearbox oil
clutch system fluid
cooant
power stearing fluid

DONT FORGET

now the engine bay all ready to go you have to wire it all up.

now the fun begins :):):)




http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b149-med.jpg




cut the OBDII ECU connectors off the loom roughly about 30cm from the connectors.

remove your D series ECU



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b215-med.jpg



im not going into great detail on conecting each and every wire, but if you want and exact list of what goes where PM me.

I think its good practice to connect one wire at a time and then do a continuity test to make sure you have done it right, then move to the next wire.

you will have to run 5 extra wire to the engine bay from the ecu

- power stearing Pressure switch signal
- power stearing Pressure switch Ground
- knock sensor
- O2 heater
- VTEC solenoid

you just have to tap into the loom connector at the shock tower, then you can connect the 3 connectors there.

heres some more pics


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b217-med.jpg



http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b225-med.jpg




and after 2 days of work


http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/1329b222-med.jpg




this bad boy started 1st pop, ran for a bit then wouldnt restart, found out the plugs where rooted so I replaced them and off she goes to the exhaust place to have the exhaust welded on properly. I just did a bit of a ghetto mod with some wire (http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/b214.jpg)to hold it in place.

let me tell you this thig goes HARD. (http://ecu-man.com/diy/eg-b18c/b18c-eg-229.avi)

just use all the ITR mounts and you wont have any problems

ECU-MAN


Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

[SiR JDM]

Great Write up again John... :thumbsup:

[lazymofo]

good work!

[Snoop_gee]

ECU man where r u located state and suburb wise?

[z3lda]

ecu-man is in S.A

[egads]

nice work! youve outdone yourself once again. makes me want to go out and grab an ITR front cut ;)

[JDM.Power]

whoaaa thats nice!
very helpful to me!
and good write up!

[s3ph]

nice one!

[michael_antoi]

were u also given the ecu from the b18c?

[JDM.Power]

were u also given the ecu from the b18c?
if you buy the front cut package! yes the ECU comes with it
but if you just buy the engine no the ECU doesnt come with it.

[[stealth]]

oh yeah this baby goes hard fo sure when ECU-MAN drives it.. hahaha :p

[eG_YoDa]

WHOA!!!
i want one dammit

nice colour ... black
mmMmMMmmmmm

hehe btw nice write up john
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[ProECU]

when am i tuning it?

[ECU-MAN]

thanks for the positive comments fellas.

- yes Im in SA Adelaide
- you get the ECU and Loom with the front cut ( you pretty much get the front of the car )
- if you get just an engine you might get the ECU, but you will want to get the connectors and engine mounts, acelerator cable, power stearing high pressure hose and drive shafts.

[fabz]

So roughly how much would it cost to get jdm b18c front & get it put in like all up no more to pay lol?

[zco]

holy moly !! thats some madd shit. you just saved me a few thousand dollars .. and may have caused a few more headaches. LOL ! EXCELLENT write up !

[lerroy]

Great write up very well done :P gonna help alot of peeps

and yes im jealous :P

[chee]

awesome writeup, its exactly what i plan on doing in the near future!

[Vtec_inside]

jesus nice work man. honda nut for sure. i have done b18c5 conversion before for a freiend ya they go pretty hard. the half cut is not cheap tho... about $7500 this thing ar becoming rare in japan, and the malaysian pay good moeny for them when buying out of tokyo.

[Trust-Me]

once again...awesome write up john.

this car goes pretty hard...love the sound of NA vtec!!!!

[ECU-MAN]

I also like to thank the fellas who helped out with getting the front cut out of the trailer.

yal know who you are :)

[weezer]

OMG those arms are hairy heheh

Great work John. As always :thumbsup:

[spoon]

Vin they are REAL MANS hands!!!!!! Good work Theio Yannis (Jon), ur my SA mechanic if my cars breaks down at Mallala :thumbsup:

Tell dave ill (maybe vin) be back in adelaide early next year for another Practice day, he better be prepared!!!

[fly_vti]

very nice write, :)

[wynode]

Nice work again there John......and bajeesus them hands!!

[ECU-MAN]

lol haha

I tell ya havin hairy arms sucks when you get that goo that hold the plastic sheet to the door behind the door trim in the hairs. reallys sucks. have to shave the sticky bits off. OUCH !!!!!!

[Weq]

awsome writeup. i dont look at this section much, but its bery good info :)

[krasyvy]

yeh great write-up.....gorrilla man

[Paul1985]

lol haha

I tell ya havin hairy arms sucks when you get that goo that hold the plastic sheet to the door behind the door trim in the hairs. reallys sucks. have to shave the sticky bits off. OUCH !!!!!!

yes.. that black glue shit!!
i got it all over the door trim on my gf car from touching them as it was all over my hands (should have washed my hands).. i quickly cleaned it off with carpet cleaner though :D

that stuff gets sticky and everywhere.. very frustrating
id prefer oil.. its like a moisturiser lol

anyway.. fantastic write-up dude.. its good when experienced people such as yourself goto the effort to make up an FAQ such as this.. thanks, i appreciated FAQs such as this and im sure all the people doing this swap would too :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[xtercii]

The brakes don't come with the front cut?

[ECU-MAN]

it did, but I removed them in an attempt to get the thing out the trailer.

[tRipitaka]

how did u get it into the trailer in the first place -_-

[chee]

dropped it in on an angle.

[ECU-MAN]

nah we took it out on an angle

the dude with a forklift dropped it in from on top, just fit,

problem was the back of the trailer where the door is, there where bars welded in and taking up space.

next time Ill get a car trailer :)

[jdmlvn]

nice write up.. relly good read !

[Paul1985]

John, u need to make some mates with people who own a ute. lol

[xtercii]

Does the half cut come with just front brakes or all 4 of them?

[wynode]

1/2 cut = half of car

[xtercii]

Wouldn’t that be causing bit of a mess since the itr’s brakes are 5 lugs and civics’ are 4 lugs. After the swapping your car will end up with 5 front and 4 back which means an absolute headache to source wheels. And I suppose finding rear type r brakes alone wouldn’t be that easy?

[h22a accord]

great write up ECU-MAN, you guys did well to get the front cut out of the trailer! Front cuts are ferkin heavy assed things- poor engine hoist.

[ECU-MAN]

great write up ECU-MAN, you guys did well to get the front cut out of the trailer! Front cuts are ferkin heavy assed things- poor engine hoist.

haha yeah, the hoist sure came through for me :)

BTW

I dindt put on the ITR brakes, other wise there would of been photos of it :)

[ROCKET]

u can drill an extra whole in the front brake discs to make em fit 4 stud civic
and leave ur bak civic brakes and just have itr front brakes

[ECU-MAN]

no, that would be Suicide

[joyride]

you make it look so easy ecu-man :)

why would redrilling rotors be bad? ive had FC3s rotors redrilled to 4 stud and they are fine to this day.

[Mrkrooz]

Awesome write up...."THUMBS UP"

[BlitZ]

very very good work..great stuff...

[kongfu]

Nice engine transplant!COngratulations!

[ECU-MAN]

you make it look so easy ecu-man :)

why would redrilling rotors be bad? ive had FC3s rotors redrilled to 4 stud and they are fine to this day.


cross drilling your rotors is suiside

drilling the stud pattern seems to be ok. ( still abit iffy on the saftey factor )

[joyride]

cross drilling your rotors is suiside

drilling the stud pattern seems to be ok. ( still abit iffy on the saftey factor )
oh man, my bad, i read your post wrong. sorry about the thread hijack.

you guys should have done a DIY wire tuck also!

[Menzy]

just a question ... how did you get the eng. certificate pass, dont you need 5 stud brakes ... ?
and isnt in risky driving with all that power but not be able to stop it ?

[ECU-MAN]

itr pre 98 ( I think ) has 4 studd.

this beast now has been upgraded to ITR front brake setup and rear disk..

[marcus]

the jdm itr comes with b18c or b18c5??

[tRipitaka]

the jdm itr comes with b18c or b18c5??
comes with the type R engine which is stamped "b18c" with no number on the end..
although the jdm "VTIR equivalent" is also stamped b18c..

b18c5 is the US type R engine
b18c7 is the AU type R engine
b18c is the JDM type R/SiR engine

[RIVAL]

hey nice work on the conversion.

anyways where did u pick up the half cut from in adelaide just curious and how much for

[ECU-MAN]

its not my car dude

I just did the convertion. the going rate for an ITR front cut is about 6k

[Klayemore]

Nice work mate! :D Thats going to help alot when I start mine. No 'B18C7 into a Gen2 CRX' write-up laying around is there?

I'm guessing it would be very much the same though, apart from the mounts

[CRXer]

Try this write up instead by DIY-MAN

click here (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46374&highlight=crx+b16a)

EDIT: the only difference will be which way u choose to go with the wiring.

[Klayemore]

Cheers mate :) That's awesome

[CRXer]

Actually the other diff will be what brand of mounts u use,as well.

[Klayemore]

I thought that all B-series mounts were the same?

No? ok then

[panda[cRx]]

he's talking about aftermarket mounts for B, H + K conversions. different brands make them however hasport have traditionally been the favourite over the years as they give great engine fit and the build quality is amazing

great stuff john

[CRXer]

yeah,as panda said.

Different brands put the motor in different positions.
So things could be different with clearancing chassis rails,the bonnet,pwr/steer gear,A/C & front xmember,etc.

Hasport choose to position the motor for good ground clearance & good drive shaft angle,so prob worth spending the extra + they are a quality item.

I found my hasports made the engine just rub the bonnet webbing with a P72 head,might be clear if u go the typeR PR3 head cos its shorter.This is with the AUDM bonnet,btw.But a little bit of webbing removal will clear it.

[Klayemore]

Yeah I'll be going Hasport fro sure. The brand that gets the most rep. Thanks guys

[ECU-MAN]

lol

combine the two DIY together and your good to go

the B16A in gen2 DIY will be closer to what you want to do

HAsport mounts rock,

AVID mounts give a bit of a smoother ride.

[civic_mods]

another nice write up again....
2 days of work only???????
OH,that's fast!!!!
make me want to try and do it to my fd's EK...LOL

[ECU-MAN]

2 days of work only???????
OH,that's fast!!!!
make me want to try and do it to my fd's EK...LOL

with a front cut you have everything you need :)

[panda[cRx]]

yeah,as panda said.

Different brands put the motor in different positions.
So things could be different with clearancing chassis rails,the bonnet,pwr/steer gear,A/C & front xmember,etc.

Hasport choose to position the motor for good ground clearance & good drive shaft angle,so prob worth spending the extra + they are a quality item.

I found my hasports made the engine just rub the bonnet webbing with a P72 head,might be clear if u go the typeR PR3 head cos its shorter.This is with the AUDM bonnet,btw.But a little bit of webbing removal will clear it.
yeah i've found with many people with b18c's they have slight issues with the bonnet closing. this can easily be rectified with some washers to add some space with the bonnet.
i myself have hasport mounts but with my b16a head my bonnet closes fine....just lol

what CRXer said about hasport engine position is exactly on the money....as what ecuman said about avid mounts :thumbsup:

both are great for different reasons. there are a few people selling hasport mounts in aus already, if anyone needs avid mounts i can get them for a range of applications :)


ADVID mounts give a bit of a smoother ride.
typo: AVID :thumbsup:

[AsH_]

do you need an engineers certificate for install a B18C into a EG???

coz its making me wanna drop a B18 in my car...
not for a long time yet.... $$$$

[ECU-MAN]

not sure

check with your local RTA..

[i_own_you]

yes you do.

[AsH_]

how much are engineers????

[i_own_you]

how much are engineers????

it depends what you want engineered.

for example,
bodykit, rims, and steering wheel which are all aftermarket have cost me $250.

engine would cost around 400-500, but it varies between engineers depending on the technically of the swap.

[AsH_]

oh i thought engineers cert. was like $1000

so, a straight swap from a B16A to a B18C costs apprx. 400-500 depending where u go and wat has 2 be done...

[WIGGLE]

this will be very helpful!

[AsH_]

wat would vicroads need to approve a engine swap ???

[souperman]

does ITR drive shaft fit perfectly?
does it matter if it's from a pre99ITR or post99ITR?

[ECU-MAN]

they fit perfectly as mentioned in the DIY. yes 96 on will be fine

[Phuong1987]

oh i thought engineers cert. was like $1000

so, a straight swap from a B16A to a B18C costs apprx. 400-500 depending where u go and wat has 2 be done...

Do you need to get an engineer certifcate?
i thought u just get a blue slip wit the new engine code then give it to the rta

[souperman]

comes with the type R engine which is stamped "b18c" with no number on the end..
although the jdm "VTIR equivalent" is also stamped b18c..

b18c5 is the US type R engine
b18c7 is the AU type R engine
b18c is the JDM type R/SiR engine

so how do you distinguish btwn a b18c JDM ITR and a b18c JDM VTIR when you order a halfcut?

[ECU-MAN]

the S80 gearbox LSD is one way

[tRipitaka]

so how do you distinguish btwn a b18c JDM ITR and a b18c JDM VTIR when you order a halfcut?

intake manifold aswell..
and colour of rocker cover..

assuming that these two have not been changed..

[souperman]

ok thanks

and also, with the discussion of engine mounts (hasports, avid): is it not possible just to use the mounts from the half cut? or do they not fit in the eg?

[souperman]

is this swap more difficult if you start with an automatic rather than a manual?
what more is involved? (with the halfcut, you'd get everything you need for the manual conversion right?)

[fatboyz39]

is this swap more difficult if you start with an automatic rather than a manual?
what more is involved? (with the halfcut, you'd get everything you need for the manual conversion right?)

You need to change driver side mount (atach to the chassis rails) and weld on a manual one. Also drill 2 holes for the shift linkage. Thats about it i think.

[Edgeauto]

If you can't weld there are mounts on the market http://www.innovativemounts.com/ShowProduct.aspx?prodid=49520

[dAzLr]

in nsw you do not need an engineers certificate in putting it into an eg civic as it does not pass the 15% engine capacity eg going from 1.6L to 1.8L

[AsH_]

in nsw you do not need an engineers certificate in putting it into an eg civic as it does not pass the 15% engine capacity eg going from 1.6L to 1.8L

i thought it was an increase of power more than 15%... i might be wrong...

and this is vic.

[dAzLr]

nup we do blue slips at work and its the cylender size they go by not power :D you only need a blue slip to get the engine numbers changed

[KilLeR.eG]

nice work... im looking at doing it to my eg breeze just wondering how much would i be expecting to be paying when it all finish ?

cheers

[teaseR]

nice work... im looking at doing it to my eg breeze just wondering how much would i be expecting to be paying when it all finish ?

cheers

search buddy...
theres 1000's of thread of how much itll cost
:wave:

[ozR18]

nice work... im looking at doing it to my eg breeze just wondering how much would i be expecting to be paying when it all finish ?

cheers

I heard its hard to convert from carby engines to efi engines. Last time i asked its abt 5000 to convert to JDM B18c (55k kms engine) driveaway and ready to go.

Anyone who has done it cheaper please share your experience

[mrs2k]

5k thats a good price dont think you can get it anywhere else cheaper

[EG3B16]

5k thats a good price dont think you can get it anywhere else cheaper

yeh thats very cheap.....

which workshop is doing that? :D

[tiksie]

^^ Ditto

That is VERY cheap for drive in drive out especially for a carby EG.

[ozR18]

Hey guys,

Sorry i might be misleading you guys then sumwhere, well its best to check this guy out then. I guess this mechanic is a pro in Honda (i saw only hondas), hes located at Jandakot sumwhere..cant really remember the exact street, but apparently hes quite reasonable.

[90LAN]

nice work... im looking at doing it to my eg breeze just wondering how much would i be expecting to be paying when it all finish ?

cheers

u are wasting your time and money
just get a efi eg to make thinks easier
5-7 k for complete jdm itr conversion
1-2k for labour
really depends what u get and how much work u wanna do

[delsol9000rpms]

greatr write up

[paps02]

seems pretty straight forward. might give it a go on the weekend..... hahahha not... wow that looks fukd up. cool to know what goes on though!! cheers fo a good write up

[Mooks79]

Not easy to do but this guy done a good work

[tiksie]

B16A2 = $4500
B18C2 = $6000
B18C7 = $7000

All of that includes parts + labour preety much drive in drive out.

If it were injected, I would be looking at same options just minus $500.

Just some info for anyone that has a EG hatch that was curious on prices.

Those quotes were for a EG breeze which I went and got myself from Honbits here in Sydney.

Cheers

[jaskieee]

Hey ECU MAN i was just wondering other than the ITR front brake setup and rear disk setup were there any other brake/suspension etc upgrades you did to make the eg suitable for the conversion?

I want to put a b18 in my eg n i already have the rear discs since its a vti, but ive got about a year until i got my blacks so some time to save and have it ready to go, anything i might need?

[ECU-MAN]

having ITR front brake setup will give you better braking performange, Vti and Gli brake setup will bet hot and give you brake fade quicker

everything you will need for the intsall was covered int he DIY


cheers

[Limbo]

ITR fronts gave me 100% improvement over my ek4 fronts

[jaskieee]

ok sweet thanks heaps ill look into that now, might start with new rotors and performance pads for the back and then get my hands on some integra fronts =]

[mocchi]

bumping oldie but goodie thread. thanks for info.

[louie]

nice write up man helping me alot :D

[Banana_hammock]

Maddddd setup. and LOLs at the ghetto exhaust linkage

[zhong]

In the process of planning for the conversion.. But have a few questions, as my car is EG GL (twin carb) - do I need to prepare anything first, given that I have the half cut already... Ie. Fuel Lines? Petrol tank? etc, some clarification would be awesome. And also, don't know if you had mentioned - but is it possible to hack the EG GL loom to work with the VTIR ECU? It wasn't EFI previously.. Or if I have the complete loom, is it better if I just used that?

I have PM'd you.

:thumbsup: for the DIY.

[tiksie]

You'll need EFI lines + tank + other bits and bobs

[JDM-derek]

is the EK swap very similar to this write up?

[FAITHLESS]

is the EK swap very similar to this write up?

Yes and no.
There is more part sourcing involved in an EK swap.
This thread does help alot though.

[JDM-derek]

so what else is need in a EK swap ? rear mount and EK4 hardness?

[ECU-MAN]

you also have to change the mount bracket on the front of the engine behind the timing belt covers.

[FAITHLESS]

so what else is need in a EK swap ? rear mount and EK4 hardness?


EK4 Rear t bracket mount
EK4 dual post engine bracket
EK4 or DC2 lower transmission mount
B series AC front engine bracket
EK4 loom

Make sure it's an OBD2A engine and that you get an OBD2A P72 ECU

I've also heard that you need the B18C throttle cable and fuel return line but I haven't quite got to this stage yet so I can't confirm.

[rodz]

Cheers for that!