[Euro] Cusco type II lower arm brace

[Chris_F]

I had this fitted a few weeks ago but now it has to come off.

reason being, I drove over a mates driveway and a big chunk of metal (cemented into the ground) was sticking up (concealed by grass) and it partially ripped through and compeltely bent the bar beyond repair.

on monday im taking the car in for the chasis screws to be checked for damage and to have the bar removed. because the bar has been bent so much it also rattles/vibrates against the exhaust pipe at most rpm :thumbdwn:

I'm undecided as to whether i should get another one or just leave it be... installed it comprises ground clearences quite a bit - i've even bumped it a few times on fairly low speed bumps...

[STIGT]

sorry to hear that.. ouch..

[eurosp]

I had this fitted a few weeks ago but now it has to come off.

reason being, I drove over a mates driveway and a big chunk of metal (cemented into the ground) was sticking up (concealed by grass) and it partially ripped through and compeltely bent the bar beyond repair.

on monday im taking the car in for the chasis screws to be checked for damage and to have the bar removed. because the bar has been bent so much it also rattles/vibrates against the exhaust pipe at most rpm :thumbdwn:

I'm undecided as to whether i should get another one or just leave it be... installed it comprises ground clearences quite a bit - i've even bumped it a few times on fairly low speed bumps...

I have just bought myself a set of coilovers to lower the car, and I am thinking of getting of buying the lower arm bar as well. Not sure if I want it now. :confused:

[Chris_F]

eurosp, how low are you going? the lower arm brace takes away about 2cm or so of ground clearence so you'll have to be careful if you end up getting it. I think it's a worthwile addition to the car though... just avoid driveways with huge metal rods sticking out of the ground! and take speedbumps on an angle and you should be ok.

[eurosp]

I will prob go ~2cm max. did not want to go too low, cos planing to add lip kit as well.

[Matell]

Jesus Chris, no offence but you need to learn to drive!. My car's as low as yours and haven't damaged the bar from ground impact. Neither did baboo when he had it fitted. You also have the body kit like I, and the side sills are about as low the bar, so it's a bit of a puzzle how you could've scraped it on a speed bump!

Sad but not much can be done about it!

Oh and maybe a word of advice. Try not to drive on grass (you decide which type I'm referring too), all sorts of whacky things can happen if you're not careful!!! :D

[Matell]

I have just bought myself a set of coilovers to lower the car, and I am thinking of getting of buying the lower arm bar as well. Not sure if I want it now. :confused:

I wouldn't worry about it.

[Chris_F]

Jesus Chris, no offence but you need to learn to drive!. My car's as low as yours and haven't damaged the bar from ground impact. Neither did baboo when he had it fitted. You also have the body kit like I, and the side sills are about as low the bar, so it's a bit of a puzzle how you could've scraped it on a speed bump!

Sad but not much can be done about it!

Oh and maybe a word of advice. Try not to drive on grass (you decide which type I'm referring too), all sorts of whacky things can happen if you're not careful!!! images/smilies/icon_cheesygrin.gif

my car is actually lower than yours now. i had it lowered another 13mm since the last time you've seen it. With the bar on i have 7cm ground clearence. It is also the lowest point of the car and it scrapped on speedbumps due to it's position underneath the car... it only happened once and after taking them very slowly and on a slgiht angle i stopped having a problem with that.

I don't think any amount of drug enduced "driving skills" like the ones you posess would have allowed me to avoid the large chunk of steel protruding from my mates driveway. Like i said it was concealed by grass and was very difficult to see - thanks for being so supportive ya prick! :D

just thought i'd let people know that you have to be careful with the bar fitted because it DOES compromise ground clearence by another couple of centremeters. I know from first hand experience and after destroying a 300 or so dollar bar i wouldn't be making shit up :rolleyes:.

[Matell]

alrighty :rolleyes::p

[eurosp]

I wouldn't worry about it.

thanks for the tip. Matell

[stephen8512]

goddamn chris
sorry to hear that mate....
im gettin my lower arm bar v1 from leo soon.....shit...sorta scared now...... :S
keep us posted as to how it goes down

[euro77]

same fate for my lower arm bar, but I damaged it on the track going over the ripple :(

[Chris_F]

goddamn chris
sorry to hear that mate....
im gettin my lower arm bar v1 from leo soon.....shit...sorta scared now...... :S
keep us posted as to how it goes down

i'll let you know how it goes ay - i really hope there is no damage to the chassis screws or anything like that. Though the bar is in a very bad way:thumbdwn: i still can't decide weather or not ill be buying a new one though... might wait to "steal" matt's if/when he sells the car.

you should be fine though... but after you get your car lowered just try be a bit careful - i tried to be haha.


same fate for my lower arm bar, but I damaged it on the track going over the ripple images/smilies/frown.gif

damn that's really unlucky - obviously the bar makes a significant difference to ground clearence for cars that have already been lowered. Did you bother replacing it?

[euro77]

not yet, took it off, the bent doesn't look bad, but it vibrates with the exhaust pipe during idle only (no vibrations when driving). Don't know if anyone can straighten the bar.

[Chris_F]

by the sounds of it the bar should be able to be repaired.

mine is completely bent out of shape (beyond repair) and vibrates at most rpm while driving - can't wait to get the thing off.

did you notice a difference in the cars handling etc nwo that the bars off?

[euro77]

not really, since the car's been lowered. Before lowering, I can notice slight improvement in handling, but not after lowering.

[Chris_F]

interesting, i probably won't bother getting it again then... at least not untill one pops up second hand.

[Chris_F]

i've had the bar removed. i can really tell the difference without it :(. the steering has a much larger dead spot now - small inputs mid corner dont seem to do what they used to. Does anyone know how much these things go for you new?

[yfin]

i've had the bar removed. i can really tell the difference without it :(. the steering has a much larger dead spot now - small inputs mid corner dont seem to do what they used to. Does anyone know how much these things go for you new?

hey Chris - do you have a strut brace? That remove the dead spot for me.

[Usual Suspect]

hey Chris - do you have a strut brace? That remove the dead spot for me.

I was gonna say, instead of replacing the lower arm brace, try another type or brace if u wanna get the better handling back.

[Chris_F]

yfin - i have the cusco front strut bar (and whiteline rear sway too).

the steering just feels less "connected" now and not as direct - i was suprised it made a noticeable difference really, but after ahving it for a few weeks and then without i could really tell

[yfin]

I see i see - is the damage so bad you couldn't get it cut into a type I bar like this?



http://img258.echo.cx/img258/5177/344475atypeibar4pu.jpg

[Chris_F]

that's definitely an option... i was also going to see if i can get it bent back into shape, but that might not be possible. would a 3 prong bar be a waste of time? i think one of the reasons the bar tightens the car up so much is because it is connected at those 4 points..

[Matell]

that's definitely an option... i was also going to see if i can get it bent back into shape, but that might not be possible. would a 3 prong bar be a waste of time? i think one of the reasons the bar tightens the car up so much is because it is connected at those 4 points..

Three point bar would only be of any use if the third point was located symmetrically between the forward two points. Otherwise any load distribution would be biased towards stiffening the side of the car that has the two points. Also you'd be increasing the stress concentration around the forward bolt that doesn't have the accompanying rear anchor points. ie It would just screw things up!

If you want to save what you can out of the bar convert it to the two point of contact Type I bar.

[euro77]

AH, sorry, mine was the single bar (type I), maybe that's why there isn't much difference in handling with and without.

[Chris_F]

Three point bar would only be of any use if the third point was located symmetrically between the forward two points. Otherwise any load distribution would be biased towards stiffening the side of the car that has the two points. Also you'd be increasing the stress concentration around the forward bolt that doesn't have the accompanying rear anchor points. ie It would just screw things up!

If you want to save what you can out of the bar convert it to the two point of contact Type I bar.

thanks Matt.

i had a look at the bar and the picture of the type 1 bar and it looks exactly like the section that is f$#d up & bent on mine

[EuroAccord13]

REVIVAL!!!!

I got the Cusco Type 2 Lower Arm Bar fitted... Well, I got my replacement Type 1 and MUGEN88 got the Type 2... Guess what? It didn't clear MUGEN88's piping and so we swapped....

Modifications were made to the cat con shield, had to cut abit at the end off to clear it but other than that... No Issues...


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/EuroAccord13/EuroAccord/Cusco/IMG_0209W1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/EuroAccord13/EuroAccord/Cusco/IMG_0212W2.jpg

[aaronng]

Nice bit of bashing there!

[tony1234]

Looks good but do you notice much improvement in handling/cornering.I've got the Cusco strut brace,it did make a noticeable difference.

[aaronng]

Even the type 1 sharpened up the steering response on my car.

[BusterSonic12]

EA13: do u feel much difference between the type I and II brace??

if u hav a aftermarket header, would that mean the type 2 will fit perfect?

[mugen88]

EA13: do u feel much difference between the type I and II brace??

if u hav a aftermarket header, would that mean the type 2 will fit perfect?

Cusco type 2 fitment will depend on yr header and cat combo.

Jap headers (Mugen, Maxim works, Toda- made for CL7) are a different length to US made (Comptech, DC Sports, Hytech- made for CL9) ones.

It also depends on the cat u use either stock vs after market as they tend to be different in size and length.

It would be best to fit the type 2 LAB when you install headers and cat togeather to ensure correct fitment for best results.

[euro77]

let's hope you don't bend it again nick :D

[mugen88]

let's hope you don't bend it again nick :D

MMM nics ride is pretty low (fingers crossed).

[aaronng]

Let's raise his car to 4x4 mode.

[EuroAccord13]

let's hope you don't bend it again nick :D


I've never bent my old LAB laa.. It was you!!!!!!!

[euro77]

rrr.. hang on.. so what happened to your type I LAB?

[EuroAccord13]

rrr.. hang on.. so what happened to your type I LAB?

Someone else bent it....

[euro77]

hahahaha.... well, at least I'm right with the bent part :D :D :D

[hooyn]

revived!
what are peoples opinions about the LCA type 1 and 2 after a pretty long time.? bang for buck mod? im looking to improve handling and so far i've lowered and upgraded the rear sway.

if im running stock system and want to be upgrading to aftermarket cat + header later on will there be any clearance issues? rubbing/scraping parts etc.

thanks!

[aaronng]

Very good for improving steering response. I found a bigger effect than the front strut bar.
What aftermarket header do you plan to get? I know that the Toda header might have clearance issues because of the flange.

[Crapdaz]

As aaron has said there might be clearance issues especially with Type II as its a 4 point brace where as type I is 2 point.

Also remember that as you are lowered the brace will lower your car another 20mm.

For your information i am running DC headers + RT Cat with Type I bar and i have no issues whatsoever except i scrap alot cause its lower.

[aaronng]

Type 2 won't clear the AUDM cat. Both Type 1 and Type 2 might not clear toda headers.

[Cranial]

I have a Type 2 Cusco LAB. It gets bent too easily over relatively small bumps. Yes, my car is lowered, but not by that much. My stock cat bumps against the LAB under sudden acceleration (you can hear it hitting it). It has improved the steering response, but it is alot of trouble. I think Type 1 would be better as it would cause less clearance issues.

[Crapdaz]

yes it would be better but, less performance gain as only 2 points.
i didnt feel much difference as i had car lowered on tein mfp, whiteline RSB and front cusco tower so didnt make much difference when i put it on.

just a wank factor in my case.

[aaronng]

I have a Type 2 Cusco LAB. It gets bent too easily over relatively small bumps. Yes, my car is lowered, but not by that much. My stock cat bumps against the LAB under sudden acceleration (you can hear it hitting it). It has improved the steering response, but it is alot of trouble. I think Type 1 would be better as it would cause less clearance issues.

You could get a J's racing torque damper. That should help with the cat hitting the bar.

[aaronng]

yes it would be better but, less performance gain as only 2 points.
i didnt feel much difference as i had car lowered on tein mfp, whiteline RSB and front cusco tower so didnt make much difference when i put it on.

just a wank factor in my case.

For me, Type 1 is a big enough improvement that I could can feel the difference once I took off the bar after driving with it for a while. I have Flex, RSB and front cusco strut bar too.

[Crapdaz]

For me, Type 1 is a big enough improvement that I could can feel the difference once I took off the bar after driving with it for a while. I have Flex, RSB and front cusco strut bar too.

yeh i might take it off, but then i am so lazy.
but yeh still need to recheck my bolts again as i havent after i installed.

[hooyn]

Very good for improving steering response. I found a bigger effect than the front strut bar.
What aftermarket header do you plan to get? I know that the Toda header might have clearance issues because of the flange.

I was thinking of getting Toda header but thought I'd rather spend my money on a camera :D. Looks like I'm going to be going after the Type 1, but I dont want to be worrying about it bending and scraping. Maybe put my money somewhere else that will improve handling...

[Cranial]

You could get a J's racing torque damper. That should help with the cat hitting the bar.

I already have a J's Racing torque damper. The problem is that the bar where the cat is keeps getting "bent" upwards everytime I hit something (like a speedhump). I also have Flex, FSB and RSB.

[aaronng]

I already have a J's Racing torque damper. The problem is that the bar where the cat is keeps getting "bent" upwards everytime I hit something (like a speedhump). I also have Flex, FSB and RSB.

Ahh, so your bar is bent. Well, it will only get worse. At least it is not rubbing against the flexpipe, like you would get with the stock header and Type 1 bar.

[hooyn]

hey aaron do you have any issues with scraping the Type 1 bar ? i mean scraping the ground.

offtopic. but since you guys are talking about it already... does the torque damper assist the handling a lot more ? do you guys think it's worth getting one ?

[aaronng]

hey aaron do you have any issues with scraping the Type 1 bar ? i mean scraping the ground.

offtopic. but since you guys are talking about it already... does the torque damper assist the handling a lot more ? do you guys think it's worth getting one ?

I do have a few scrapes on my bar, but it is still not bent like yours. I have about 2-3 cm clearance between the bar and the cat. My car is lowered by about 1 inch. I have a 3 finger gap in the front wheel arch.

[felixd]

:( Im now scared to order my cusco LAB 2 cuz i have lowered springs on my euro 06 1.3" front and 1.2" rear the question is is my car too low to have the LAB 2 and will i have to modify anything so no rattles or knocking on the stock exhaust system

[EuroAccord13]

I have both the Type 1 and Type 2 bars, I have only felt negligible steering response, only big difference is that I understeer heaps more with the Type 2 unit.

Hooyn, the ETD reduces the engine's tendency to move in relation to the rod's rotational axis and hence allow more power to be transferred to the wheel. I would recommend the ETD from Feels over the Ingalls one as the angle where Ingalls one sit adds stress to the damper and I've seen them fail, Aaron's Ingalls unit has failed as well.

[Crapdaz]

I have both the Type 1 and Type 2 bars, I have only felt negligible steering response, only big difference is that I understeer heaps more with the Type 2 unit.

Hooyn, the ETD reduces the engine's tendency to move in relation to the rod's rotational axis and hence allow more power to be transferred to the wheel. I would recommend the ETD from Feels over the Ingalls one as the angle where Ingalls one sit adds stress to the damper and I've seen them fail, Aaron's Ingalls unit has failed as well.

how can you tell when it fails?
when the damper gets loose?

[aaronng]

I have both the Type 1 and Type 2 bars, I have only felt negligible steering response, only big difference is that I understeer heaps more with the Type 2 unit.
It understeers more with the Type 2 because your front is much stiffer with the Type 2 over the Type 1. So there is a difference. I am guessing your tyres are masking the steering reponse gain of the Type 2 because they are a hard compound and because they are already 2 years old.



Hooyn, the ETD reduces the engine's tendency to move in relation to the rod's rotational axis and hence allow more power to be transferred to the wheel. I would recommend the ETD from Feels over the Ingalls one as the angle where Ingalls one sit adds stress to the damper and I've seen them fail, Aaron's Ingalls unit has failed as well.
It hasn't failed yet. I took the damper out to check. The Ingalls doesn't use an elastomer for the damper. It uses a movable polyurethane bush where you adjust the position at which the piston will hit the bush. So it is an on-off switch, unlike the Feel's damper. As a torque damper, it still works fine. There is no liquid inside it like someone else reported leaking out of the damper (could have been rain water wetting his damper?)

[EuroAccord13]

I know why I'm understeering more (i.e Stiffer front end), I'm just putting into context the differences between the two on my case and this was done more than a year ago when my tyres weren't that old and also I meant to say the Steering response is better but neglibible between the bars but improved a lot over stock. :)

[Crapdaz]

It understeers more with the Type 2 because your front is much stiffer with the Type 2 over the Type 1. So there is a difference. I am guessing your tyres are masking the steering reponse gain of the Type 2 because they are a hard compound and because they are already 2 years old.


It hasn't failed yet. I took the damper out to check. The Ingalls doesn't use an elastomer for the damper. It uses a movable polyurethane bush where you adjust the position at which the piston will hit the bush. So it is an on-off switch, unlike the Feel's damper. As a torque damper, it still works fine. There is no liquid inside it like someone else reported leaking out of the damper (could have been rain water wetting his damper?)

rofl rain water wetting his ETD when its in a position that most probably wouldnt get wet at all.
Is it worth having feels + ingalls?

sorry to be off topic.

But for topic reason if you were to choose, would you prefer the stiffer chassis to produce more understeer or less? my choice would be less thus why i chose type I bar.

[aaronng]

rofl rain water wetting his ETD when its in a position that most probably wouldnt get wet at all.
Is it worth having feels + ingalls?

sorry to be off topic.

But for topic reason if you were to choose, would you prefer the stiffer chassis to produce more understeer or less? my choice would be less thus why i chose type I bar.

It does get wet if you open your bonnet just after driving in the rain. :) Drip from the bonnet to the damper.

I'd prefer a stiffer front and then add in a stiffer rear sway bar to counter the understeer effect. :)