[Euro] Aftermarket Clutch

[Chris_F]

I've decided that my next mod will be to go to an aftermarket clutch.

The stock one has lost a lot of its feel already (at just over 20,000km) and the take-up point feels really high. IMO it was because of having 3 faulty master cylinders :rolleyes: but honda won't do anything untill the clutch is compeltely gone and starts slipping...

so i've done a bit of asking around and decided to go for something like the exedy organic clutch with a light weight JDM flywheel (4.2kg). all up it'll probably be around 1200 installed.

It'd be great if ppl could share their experience with aftermarket clutches/lightweight flywheels so i can get an idea of what i'm in for and weather or not it's a worthwhile mod, Cheers.

[yfin]

Chris where did you get that price of $1200 from? I thought just the kit costs around that much.

If you look at the Toda threads regarding bang for buck for the DC5R and DC2R - one of the better mods they recommend is a lightened flywheel. I don't think you will regret it.

Re the stock clutch - i thought mechanics can adjust the take up point (or is the Euro clutch self adjusting)?

[Eclipsor]

I got a lightened flywheel when I got a hd clutch for my h22a accord. Cost a bit under $900 installed. Got the parts from lsdmotorsports in the USA. Look for the banner up the top of the site. The flywheel made quite a noticable difference. However, as with anything you get used to it and a couple of months down the track now I can't remember what it was like before I had it installed.

[Chris_F]

Chris where did you get that price of $1200 from? I thought just the kit costs around that much.

If you look at the Toda threads regarding bang for buck for the DC5R and DC2R - one of the better mods they recommend is a lightened flywheel. I don't think you will regret it.

Re the stock clutch - i thought mechanics can adjust the take up point (or is the Euro clutch self adjusting)?

The quote was from Centrax Auto. They can suply Exedy organic clutch + 4.2kg exedy flyhweel for $980 and they offered me $360 for installation. Actually works out to be a tad over 1300 now that i bother to add it up properly.

I might see if the take up point for the clutch can be adjusted first before i decide to go ahead with the clutch + flyhweel though. Because even though the euros are self adjusting (im pretty sure) i think it's still possible to have them adjusted manually. At the moment though it feels like the clutch is week (but that could just be the takeup point playin tricks on me) and i don't like the feel of it at all.

It's another big wad of cash though... i think i'm addicted to modding :(

[Chris_F]

Eclipsor, just saw your post... thanks for sharing. Is the difference basically in acceleration because the engine revs more freely? and does the hi-def clutch really improve the feel?

[yfin]

Chris -

Read this - I think a fly wheel is worth exploring given the imrpovements seen on DC5Rs - these guys at Toda know their stuff


TODA AU[/b]]

Correct... You guess about most people is also correct...
The order things are listed in is in order of deminishing return on investment.
If you have to do things in stages or an order, this is what you aught to stick to...

Fwiw: I always reccomend flywheel, clutch & final drive sets over intake & exhaust because if you put the two cars next to each other.

The stock looking & sounding one, with only the flywheel, clutch & final drive;will chop the noisy bucket (Intake, header, exhaust only) every time...

It will do so, quickly, quietly and by a considerable margin.
For guys who only what a mild improvement to their car this is a sensible path...
There is no compromise to the reliability of the vehicle nor it's plain jane charater.
Adding the intake - header - exhaust after that is smarter.
You already have an efficient driveline, the small gains you get from bolt-ons will now take greater effect.


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showth...hlight=flywheel (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12532&highlight=flywheel)

[Chris_F]

wow sounds good... better clutch feel/uptake and the benifit of extra performance from the lighter flywheel

thanks for the link

[aaronng]

The final drive does play a large part too. How difficult is it to change the final drive ratio in the Euro's box? Do you have to pull everything apart or is it in the same vicinity as the clutch and flywheel?

[Eclipsor]

Yeah, seemed to accelerate better. Not sure on any figures of power that it might have freed up. I really should go back to the dyno sometime. As for the clutch, I've had troubles ever since I bought the car. I replaced the clutch because the one in there was too violent for everyday use (among other reasons). Since then I've had to fiddle alot with the pedal,which I think this is effectively adjusting the engage point, because it was slipping. When its good its good though. Easy to use, grabs well.

[krasyvy]

yeh get the lightened flywheel, u can real feel it on the butt dyno

[Matell]

The final drive does play a large part too. How difficult is it to change the final drive ratio in the Euro's box? Do you have to pull everything apart or is it in the same vicinity as the clutch and flywheel?

With the transmission removed to replace the clutch and flywheel, Installing the DC5R final drive and LSD would probably be only an extra 1-2hrs labour, maybe less depending on skills and experience. Only real drawback to doing the final drive is a reduced top speed and increased fuel consumption as the engine rpm will be higher to attain the same speed. ie Std FD -> 6th gear 2500rpm = 100km/h, DC5R Final Drive -> 6th Gear 3000rpm = 100km/hr. <- = Euro R

But hell I'll be doing it if I haven't sold the car by the time I need a new clutch! :)

[aaronng]

Yeah, but for most peeps who run at 80km/h in 5th gear here, you can instead run in 6th at the slightly lower RPM, with a ratio somewhere in between the original 5th and 6th ratios. You can tell I live in the city, LOL.

But I'd do the FD ratio as well as it is a big improvement in acceleration.

[Chris_F]

anyone feel like estimating a quater mile time for a euro with HD clutch, lightweight flyhweel, LSD and lower final drive ratio?

[aDe]

try osgiken kit if there any for accord :D

[Chris_F]

i went in to centrax today and had my clutch pedal adjusted. It seems to have fixed the problems i was having with power transfer/slipping and the unusually high friction point i had compared to other euros. I'll probably hold off on going for the aftermarket clutch for a while now. Defintiley reccomend that others experiencing a similar problem or arent happy with the take up point of the clutch go get it adjusted - or do it yourself. It took the mechanic 5 minutes today and it made a huge difference IMO :)

[Eclipsor]

Do you know what he did? Was it down at the pedals? Or in the engine bay.

[Chris_F]

it was just down where the pedals are... i just saw him pop under there for 5 minutes and it was done liek that. must be really easy to do i should have asked him how he did it

[Eclipsor]

yeah I've mucked around with slave cylinder rod. It has a thread on it to adjust where it connects to the clutch pedal. Just wondering if its the same sort of thing.

[Chris_F]

yea that sounds like it would be the same thing.

i'm wondering if it's possible that before the adjustment was made the clutch wasn't engaging/disengaging properly because the take up point was set to high :confused:

[Sulley]

I actually find the euro's clutch throw too far.
is there any way to reduce the biting point and make it lower?
can i adjust the pedal or something?

[Chris_F]

yea sulley, that's exactly what i had done today. the clutch pedal has been moved back to in line with the break pedal and the take up point is right toward the bottom now - just ask honda to adjust for you next time your in i guess? should only take em a few minutes

[Sulley]

yea sulley, that's exactly what i had done today. the clutch pedal has been moved back to in line with the break pedal and the take up point is right toward the bottom now - just ask honda to adjust for you next time your in i guess? should only take em a few minutes
Sweet,
i'll get them to adjust it the next time i bring it down for a service.
thanks chris!

[Eclipsor]

yea that sounds like it would be the same thing.

i'm wondering if it's possible that before the adjustment was made the clutch wasn't engaging/disengaging properly because the take up point was set to high :confused:

I think this is feasable. Bare in mind I have a cb accord so I'm not sure if the clutch mechanism in the euro is similar. But the way that I adjusted it, if it was adjusted out too far then the pedal could be stopping the clutch slave cylinder extending far enough and therefore not letting the pressure plate fully engage.

[raz05]

Sounds like a good news

I have the same problem as well, and I've ask them to fix this problem for me in my previous service. But they didn't fix it at all. I might ask them to fix it again in the next service. :)

[Sulley]

just got back from my 1000km service.
I asked them abt the clutch, they inspected it and said it couldnt be adjusted... :confused:
they said it might be cause its new and to let the clutch wear in first and if the problem still persist, they'll get one of them to take a ride with me and see the problem..
i thought it was just a matter of adjustment but the dealer said its not..
now im confused...

[Chris_F]

just got back from my 1000km service.
I asked them abt the clutch, they inspected it and said it couldnt be adjusted... images/smilies/confused.gif
they said it might be cause its new and to let the clutch wear in first and if the problem still persist, they'll get one of them to take a ride with me and see the problem..
i thought it was just a matter of adjustment but the dealer said its not..
now im confused...

really, they said that? even my honda service center said it could be adjusted, they just never got round to doing it so i took it somehwere else and got it done on the spot. the whole pedal was actualyl brought back and is now inline with the break pedal (which i prefer). After driving the car the strength/takeup point of the clutch doesnt seem to have changed the pedal itself is just physically lower so it feels like the takeup point is what it used to be