what settings for koni yellows???

[_FeRiO_]

sup guys!
i have recently bought some koni yellows and eibach sportlines for my DC2. Now i need to know what your opinions on what is a good setting for street driving as in height and stiffness. Thanks!!:thumbsup:

[tinkerbell]

2 finger gap is OK, slightly less at rear...

i'd say about 2/3's on the konis... might depend on if you have ultra low profile tyres though, if so, mayb 1/2

[bennjamin]

on my EG hatch , with whiteline "flatout" springs I am sitting on highest perch front and lowest perch rear ( springs are alittle off) and the damper is set on(judging by 2 full turns = 100%) about 50% front and 75% rear...feels alittel bumpy for street but great for smooth roads...

[|N|]

i say it depends on ur driving style

[_FeRiO_]

does the highest perch equal approximately the standard shock height??
And ill say my driving style is quite moderate with the once in a while corner attack. i guess im not after a stiff as hell ride, but one that can hold corners nicely. Im also riding on 17's with 40 profile tyres.

[**Ghost**]

just a question on koni yellows.... stiffest may not be best for road true due to bump conditions true or not

[bennjamin]

just a question on koni yellows.... stiffest may not be best for road true due to bump conditions true or not

change the damper setting according to ride height and spring choice...not road conditions :)

[tinkerbell]

excellent comment ben, that is 100% right,

the damper controls the spring, not anything else...

[Hondavirgin]

I played around with the settings on the koni (up and down old pacific highway) until it rode well......ended up with 1.5 turns back from full.

But then, thats with different springs. You really have to just use trial and error.

[BlitZ]

change the damper setting according to ride height and spring choice...not road conditions :)

interesting
say if it was wet for example when you would understeer alot alot more..
you would definitly try try to dial in more overstteerr..

wouldnt that road condition play a large factor in that.......


and your also dont want your shock to be maxed out all day to hardess setting as you would proabably blow your shock in 1/2 the time of someone who only turns it up for track

[tinkerbell]

i would persoanlly adjust my driving style to road conditions, not my suspension...

[Hondavirgin]

but adjusting suspension to road conditions can be done, and does help. It doesn't remove the need to adjust your driving style but can reduce negative effects.

not that i would bother doing this unless it was a competition.

[bungsai]

hey dude, maybe slighty OT, did u get em from Josef?

[tinkerbell]

here is the way Whiteline expalin the purpose of shock absorbers:


Dampers or shocks - What do they do?
A damper or shock absorber does not actually absorb shocks. Springs absorb shocks by compressing in response to vertical acceleration. The primary function of a shock absorber is to dampen the kinetic energy stored in the spring as the spring compresses. It converts this energy into heat which is one of the reasons we have gas shocks, but more on that later. When the force that caused the compression goes away, this stored energy releases and the spring extends with a lot of force. Imagine a pogo stick.

Now, before we confuse everyone too much. We'll refer to a shock as a damper and vice versa through out this explanation. Technically speaking damper is more correct, but shock is fine as long we keep in mind what its actual job is. It's also important to note that a shock's rate needs to match the spring and the swaybar. This is why tuned suspension packages are a such a good choice.

Shock absorbers are inherently velocity sensitive (despite the marketing hype). That is, the faster the piston moves (increased vertical acceleration) the more resistance or damping will result. This is due to one of the laws of fluid dynamics, which states that a fluid's resistance to flow through any given orifice will increase directly as the square function of flow velocity. The bottom line is the harder the damper works, the harder it works!

Because a shock absorber is velocity sensitive by nature, it has to be load sensitive because the velocity is produced by an acceleration, which is composed of force and velocity.

In order to maintain sensitivity at low displacements, valving has to be arranged so that little damping takes places at low piston velocities and conversely substantial damping takes place at high piston velocities. All fluid filled shock absorbers are therefore velocity sensitive, a good shock absorber will also be frequency sensitive. And this is often what separates the good from the average. Naturally its difficult to get a real frequency sensitive solution for very little money.

The current state of the art in racecar technology is to lower the spring rate as much as possible whilst increasing the swaybar rate as high as possible. This allows the tyre to follow the road surface maintaining the maximum grip possible. If the spring rate or bar rate is too high then it will hop from bump to bump losing traction. The bar controls the roll, the soft (relatively) spring deflects for the bumps and the rebound on the shock can therefore be set at a relatively lower/softer level.

So, next time your asked by a salesman to "pull his levers" and see how stiff their particular shock is, remember that stiff ISN'T always better. And, you can't possible simulate the high frequency of road bump deflection with your hand. No matter how well practiced you may be.



much more info here:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/faqshocks01.htm

nad heaps more on all suspension components here:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/faqintro.htm

[_FeRiO_]

yea, i did actiually get em from josef. Were you interested also??

[_FeRiO_]

i have also read that most drivers seem to dial their rears stiffer than the front. Is this mainly personal choice or does it make the car handle and ride better??

[aozora]

Depending on your spring rate, I'd see whether the dampers were appropriately valved to match that rate first? Hopefully you're not running progressive spring rates though... but be warned, setting it to full hard when your actual spring rate is softer will kill the dampers as they have to control both the initial bound HARDER then what the spring absorbs, THEN control the spring from releasing that energy and vice versa I'd imagine. Sports dampers are a bit difficult because the bound and rebound "ratio" is usually pre-set a certain way I heard and are not equal. Ideally though you'd want softer bound, then slightly harder rebound. So setting them is difficult... and what you might "feel" is better may be detrimental in the end... atleast I can't feel it that's for sure ahha. I felt my fronts skip (no steering feel at all) over a bump which left me OMGWTFBBQ for a second or two, so I softened the dampers to hopefully solve that problem... but yer I didn't feel it again but next time I pulled them out, they were leaking :(

ANYWAY... I haven't actually done this before as I rebuild my dampers and just tell them to match the spring rate there and then... but take it to any decent suspension place and put it on a "shock" dyno... they should be able to match them up I'd think as long as they have the spring rates to work with and that the dampers can handle the spring rate in the first place? (Really wild guess here, but ask them I guess?)