white line rear sway

[|N|]

about to invest in one... just wonder shoud i go 22 or 20mm.... i ve heard stories that the 22mm might be too stiff and mat cause crazy over steer
???
any hlpe ???
cheers
nick

[bigteethygrin]

not sure about your car but whiteline also make adjustable sway bars where you can attach the linkages at various lengths on the bar to adjust stiffness. you may want to enquire with them as that way you will have a bar you can play with to get the stiffness right

[|N|]

serious??? wat r they called?

[bennjamin]

isnt the EK variant of swaybar from whitekline "adjustable" from 20-22mm (like EG/DC type) - have alook in www.whiteline.com.au ~ or wait until "wojtek" fidns this thread -(he works directly at whiteline and can give u an instant answer -

[|N|]

ok thx la.. i m waiting

[chameleon]

I got adjustable 20-22mm rear bar on my ek, but i also upgraded my front to 27mm.
I dont experience any crazy oversteer, but the rear end is definately more lively. If you were to brake while cornering you may experience oversteer.
o btw i set my rear bar on the softest setting.

[|N|]

I got adjustable 20-22mm rear bar on my ek, but i also upgraded my front to 27mm.
I dont experience any crazy oversteer, but the rear end is definately more lively. If you were to brake while cornering you may experience oversteer.
o btw i set my rear bar on the softest setting.

thx mate... but when u say 20-22?? wat exactly does that mean?

[newbie]

nick...

w'line make a rear 22mm adjustable rear sway... just get that... should even out or close to on the soft setting and depends on your front size. you might get tiny over steer on stiffer setting,...

[A.G.System]

Just got the 22mm on my ek1.

The handling is 100000x better

It is true the the tail end "floats" a little more on the corners on high speed.
But this is not an issue. Kind of makes the car feel like a rwd in the way that it now "drifts" around the corner instead of grab and body roll's.

Just make sure that your kit comes with all the parts.

Bought mine and got home only to find out that 1/2 the bolts were missing. Just glad i had some of the same size here.

[|N|]

so all 22mm sway adjustable ????

[fried]

watch out for subframe tear out... thats a mighty big upgrade....

[Astro]

yeah lah...get the adjustable 22mm rear sway bar..

if your a true pro racer...get that and the tie bar too lah

[|N|]

yeah lah...get the adjustable 22mm rear sway bar..

if your a true pro racer...get that and the tie bar too lah

yea mate.. tie bar is on the order.....

can anyone tell me r all whiteline 22mm sway adjustable ???

[chameleon]

i think all 22mm rear bar for ek civics are adjustable. about 90% sure

[BlitZ]

they all are.. its just an extra hole....

its to hole or not to hole..

[egSi]

nick i pmd you!!

22mm ek rear swaybar is adjustble to 20mm FOR SURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[|N|]

SSSSSSSSSSSSSIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK la

thx guys... got wat i wanted to know.... mods feel free to close this.....

[BlitZ]

do i sense wakefield here i come with new 22mm rear sway bar lai.....

have fun wiht it.. i reckon its proabably the best most to do to a civic:thumbsup:

[string]

I think you are all kidding yourself if you think that your backend is "sliding" out like a rwd or that you are getting any oversteer from a 22mm rear bar...

[Terry]

i got 22-24mm adjustable on my vti......oversteer? haha never! :D

[bennjamin]

I think you are all kidding yourself if you think that your backend is "sliding" out like a rwd or that you are getting any oversteer from a 22mm rear bar...

Never "oversteer" but in lift off situations (which we all should learn NOT to do in a FWD car lol) the back will come around quite quickly as compared to stock.
Keep grippy tyres on the rear plz :)

[|N|]

Never "oversteer" but in lift off situations (which we all should learn NOT to do in a FWD car lol) the back will come around quite quickly as compared to stock.
Keep grippy tyres on the rear plz :)

all good.... got pretty decent tyres on alrady ... by the way ben ... saw u today

[gelo]

watch out for subframe tear out... thats a mighty big upgrade....

this is important
as alot of you guys with larger sway bars would/should know
the stock ek subframe where u install the sway bar is very fragile
by putting a bigger sway bar there will be more stress on ur frame and riskt he chance of ripping it


whiteline comes with reinforcements with the sway bar kits
but im just not convinced they do the job

[LowEk]

this is important
as alot of you guys with larger sway bars would/should know
the stock ek subframe where u install the sway bar is very fragile
by putting a bigger sway bar there will be more stress on ur frame and riskt he chance of ripping it


whiteline comes with reinforcements with the sway bar kits
but im just not convinced they do the job


what will fix this problem as i am too about to get swaybars on my EK and dont want this to happen to my ride??

Rgds.

[Terry]

just get the reenforcement kit together with your sway bar than everything will be allright:D

[Domokun SPL]

How exactly should you be concerned about the rear subframe? The only thing that the sway bar does on the rear subframe is hinge/pivot, the real stress is put on the links between the sway bars and the suspension knuckle.

If you are worried about the rear subframe, get a subframe alignment kit from whiteline too. It will help the standard bushes which would have worn over time, helping increase the overall feel.

I would personally always shoot for the adjustable swaybar as you dont know what you will need it for in future. Its also good to have a play around with everything. If you need even more adjustment then the two or three provided holes, you can always get more holes drilled in.

About 20 or 22mm, what is it standard. If its a solid 18mm bar, then the solid 24mm bar would be fine. But if its a 18mm hollow, a 24 solid may be too much therefore a 20 would be best. Need more information on the standard sway bars and feel of the car.

[izzy]

hey guys i just got my 18mm white line sway for my ek1.
woot!!
so yeh tell you guys the feed back after it gets installed on the weekend.

[bennjamin]

How exactly should you be concerned about the rear subframe? The only thing that the sway bar does on the rear subframe is hinge/pivot, the real stress is put on the links between the sway bars and the suspension knuckle.

If you are worried about the rear subframe, get a subframe alignment kit from whiteline too. It will help the standard bushes which would have worn over time, helping increase the overall feel.

I would personally always shoot for the adjustable swaybar as you dont know what you will need it for in future. Its also good to have a play around with everything. If you need even more adjustment then the two or three provided holes, you can always get more holes drilled in.

About 20 or 22mm, what is it standard. If its a solid 18mm bar, then the solid 24mm bar would be fine. But if its a 18mm hollow, a 24 solid may be too much therefore a 20 would be best. Need more information on the standard sway bars and feel of the car.

Stock on some of these cars is NO swaybar.
There is NO way any "aftermarket" swaybar (being larger than stock) will fit safetly with the stock U mounts and bushes - it WILL rip something out in a matter of time.( i used a 18mm replacement where a stock 14mm existed) Even with the "reinforcement" ~ i have heard instances of subframe tear. This is a very real issue in the world which shouldnt be taken lightly . Please reinforce with proper tiebar/mounting plates for anything apart from stock !

[Zdster]

Hate to ask a bad question, but does anyone have any photos of where this sort of tearing has occured? I have never seen pictures of this occuring (although have heard of it before) and was just curious as to what it looked like and the location that it would occur.

[Domokun SPL]

Wow, god a car without swaybars would handle like crap and roll all over the joint.

You can always speak to whiteline and get them to start making thinner bars, they do do a lot of custom work.

[BlitZ]

If you are worried about the rear subframe, get a subframe alignment kit from whiteline too. It will help the standard bushes which would have worn over time, helping increase the overall feel.

I would personally always shoot for the adjustable swaybar as you dont know what you will need it for in future. Its also good to have a play around with everything. If you need even more adjustment then the two or three provided holes, you can always get more holes drilled in.


sorry to be a noobs :

but,
subframe alignment kit to help alignment bushing? huh? what has that got to do with your subframe? and subframe tear outs?

[string]

Domokun SPL: I think you are missing the point. Whatever force is being applied upwards to one end of the swaybar as it's side's suspension compresses is going to go into either a) twisting the swaybar or b) applying that force directly upwards of the subframe where the swaybar mounts are.

If your swaybar has more "twisting" resistance than your subframe has strength, its going to be ripped off, no matter how much "reinforcement" is going on.

All these subframe kits are bull**** if you ask me. They all attach to the subframe! You are just making it so if it has to tear the subframe out, it will rip if out in one huge nasty blow instead of a single tear on one side.

[bennjamin]

All these subframe kits are bull**** if you ask me. They all attach to the subframe! You are just making it so if it has to tear the subframe out, it will rip if out in one huge nasty blow instead of a single tear on one side.

All the "subframe reinforcement" is doing IMO is spreading the force around abit to stop any shearing at normal operation. But ~ give it enough force and ofcourse it will still rip out a large chunk.

But...perhaps thats why some companies use such weak bolts...fail safe prevention ? (that is , bolts are cheaper to replace than torn subframes) :rolleyes:

[BlitZ]

If your swaybar has more "twisting" resistance than your subframe has strength, its going to be ripped off, no matter how much "reinforcement" is going on.

All these subframe kits are bull**** if you ask me. They all attach to the subframe! You are just making it so if it has to tear the subframe out, it will rip if out in one huge nasty blow instead of a single tear on one side.

right on bruddA!:thumbsup:

I believe some kits are better than others...
a kit that has a solid connection b/w control arm knuckles are better... that would atleast try and spread the torsion to other points....

for ek's.. all kits that utilise a ITR sway bars are better... there mounting points are closer... less torsion on the far corner where ek subframe tear... thats y ASR, beaks and all good ktis use ITR bars for ek...


Please note the problkem with teg and eg are generally with the holes being torn/plucked out. This will however be solved with a whiteline kit..

[Domokun SPL]

Maybe you are all upgrading your swaybar much too high above standard.

As I discussed before, what are the standard swaybars. What thickness, hollow/solid etc.

Id say a mild upgrade (~50% increase in anti-roll) should be sufficient to not damage much.

I guess Honda just doesnt want their cars to handle any better ey? :(

[BlitZ]

Maybe you are all upgrading your swaybar much too high above standard.

As I discussed before, what are the standard swaybars. What thickness, hollow/solid etc.

Id say a mild upgrade (~50% increase in anti-roll) should be sufficient to not damage much.

I guess Honda just doesnt want their cars to handle any better ey? :(

Honda std ek4/em1 are 13mm... anything 20mm+ and maybe even 18mm without reinforcements would tear your subframe to pieces.

....

no std honda runs a hollow swaybar.
...

[izzy]

alright dudes, just got my sway bar 18mm installed by ben la!
its bloody awesome, changes the dynamics of the car.

i recommend it to anyone without a sway bar la.

you can now take corners like a maniac. compared to whenu have no sway bar.

also vouch for ben's installation.

WOOT!!! awesome

[Paul1985]

Lets see this bar rip out of my subframe along with this reinforcement!:
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/Paul_K_1985/DSC01500.jpg
http://www.a-spec-racing.com/data/product1_detail.jpg

[Zdster]

Holy cow, that looks like a heck of a lot of reinforcement :eek:.

[Domokun SPL]

Wow, the std subframe must mega suck...

With an upgrade like that, you should be able to put whatever anti-roll bar you want.

But remember, hard/stiffer isnt always better. Set up for balance, specially on the road.

[|N|]

Wow, the std subframe must mega suck...

With an upgrade like that, you should be able to put whatever anti-roll bar you want.

But remember, hard/stiffer isnt always better. Set up for balance, specially on the road.

after driving some white eg i cant agree more with this statement

[A.G.System]

JUst had to re fit all the bolts on my rear bar after one of the origional ones supplied (one of the few) cane off mid corner and pulled the centre of the nolathane bush with it.

$9 at Banner Hardware for all new Bolts, Nolathane Nuts and some nice fat washers.

That bitch aint going no where now.
Actually feels 100% better since re fitting and some of the strange creakes that it used to have have gone also.

[chameleon]

mine was making noise cos it was hitting the LCA.
had to get washers to give it more clearance.
my car (civic ek1 sedan) is not lowered at all.

anyone else have this problem?

[|N|]

mine was making noise cos it was hitting the LCA.
had to get washers to give it more clearance.
my car (civic ek1 sedan) is not lowered at all.

anyone else have this problem?

i have exactly the same problem .. and its still going it

[wynode]

Not trying to be a smartass but have you installed it the right way around?

[|N|]

Not trying to be a smartass but have you installed it the right way around?

YES BOSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSs. at least ben did

[A.G.System]

mine was making noise cos it was hitting the LCA.
had to get washers to give it more clearance.
my car (civic ek1 sedan) is not lowered at all.

anyone else have this problem?

Was it yours that was posted in a pic a while ago?

If it was the brackets were back to front.
The bar should sit out not against the chassis.
Maybe take it off and try and re fit it again.

Also note that i didnt bother with the LCA 120mm bolt because i wasnt fitting the other brace.
Makes no difference with the way it handles. And less hassle due to not having to undo the LCA and putting it back in.

If it wasn't then just ignore this reply :D