Fuel pressure Issue

[e240]

Need someone with know how on this.

Engine: B16A, with SARD FPR and Hi Flow Fuel Pump.

Problem: Fuel pressure is not being retained within the fuel system after ignition is switched off.

When the ignition is switch on, Fuel pump cycles and fuel pressure readings point correctly (48psi). When Pump completes initial cycle, Fuel pressure drops to 0.

When the engine is started, fuel pressure jumps back to correct pressure.
With vacuum tube off, pressure increase correspondingly (which is correct)
As you accelerate, it drops down to about 40psi and maintains.

When engine is killed. Pressure drops straight back to 0.

Now with these system, there is always residuel pressure. Not in this case.
The is no leak in the engine bay. No petrol smells etc.

If there was a leak anywhere at all, the system wouldn't be able to hold its pressure at all, and the engine won't run! This is where I'm completely perplex by the issue.

Any engine technicians here able to help? I'm going to pull the fuel pump tomorrow and check if there are any split lines or loose clamps.

Cheers

[DynoDave]

Need someone with know how on this.

Engine: B16A, with SARD FPR and Hi Flow Fuel Pump.

Problem: Fuel pressure is not being retained within the fuel system after ignition is switched off.

When the ignition is switch on, Fuel pump cycles and fuel pressure readings point correctly (48psi). When Pump completes initial cycle, Fuel pressure drops to 0.

When the engine is started, fuel pressure jumps back to correct pressure.
With vacuum tube off, pressure increase correspondingly (which is correct)
As you accelerate, it drops down to about 40psi and maintains.

When engine is killed. Pressure drops straight back to 0.

Now with these system, there is always residuel pressure. Not in this case.
The is no leak in the engine bay. No petrol smells etc.

If there was a leak anywhere at all, the system wouldn't be able to hold its pressure at all, and the engine won't run! This is where I'm completely perplex by the issue.

Any engine technicians here able to help? I'm going to pull the fuel pump tomorrow and check if there are any split lines or loose clamps.

Cheers
What brand of pump are you using as most Honda hi flow replacement pumps retain the std check valve but if its a bosch or something like that there are no check valves in them and that is why your fuel pressure will bleed away.
Regards Dyno Dave

[ECU-MAN]

what Dave said.

stock ( Honda ) pumps have a valve in the pump. if your pump doesnt have one, you will have to wait for the fuel pressure to prime before she will fire.

turn you ignition on and wait 3 seconds before cranking.

[e240]

Thanks for all the replies. The pump issue crossed my mind as well but I wasn't sure.

Not sure about the brand, will have to check, but its definately Japanese.

[tinkerbell]

my walbro does not hold pressure either.

but who cares? it pressurises within 2 seconds when you turn the key on anyways?

[e240]

my walbro does not hold pressure either.

but who cares? it pressurises within 2 seconds when you turn the key on anyways?

Except I did remember it holding some pressure when I first installed the pressure regulator. Will still be stripping the pump mechanism to inspect.
Just a feeling I have on a hose but I rather be safe than sorry...

[tinkerbell]

but is the car running lean? is there a drivability issue?

if not, there can be no pressure leak!

i ahve a B20VTEC with Sard FPR and Walbro 255 pump, it behaves exactly the same way you have described.

[pornstar]

i heard that safd FPR is really neat tinker ;)

[e240]

but is the car running lean? is there a drivability issue?

if not, there can be no pressure leak!

i ahve a B20VTEC with Sard FPR and Walbro 255 pump, it behaves exactly the same way you have described.

Yeah..looks like it, stripped it out of the tank yesterday, no issue.
I'm just being paranoid after blowing 1 engine already.