b16a/b18c hybrid

[SHW.70Y]

hi everyone im contemplating on purchasing an eg civic hatch and just wanted to now how much it would cost to put toggether a b16a head to an b18c bottom end and if it is worth it (the engine will remain n/a) :confused:

[2MPRSS]

will cost you around $6500 -$7000 and its not worth it :)

[SHW.70Y]

for that price i can be pushing for a type r 1.8 i thought it would be cheaper wat do u guys recomend im hoping to run 13s if it all comes together

[2MPRSS]

a type R engine put in will cost u nearly $10000

[barefootbonzai]

Try a search there is pleanty of information on this topic. It's amazing how every person who hopes on asks the same question.

[tinkerbell]

do a B20VTEC

[panda[cRx]]

do a B20VTEC

lol how could i see that coming from u? :p

[tinkerbell]

sorry, standard response when peeps ask about hybrid block/head combos ;)

they cost similar amounts and the extra displacement of the B20 provides much better potential for power,

but at the added expense of needing and Engineers Certificate to be legal due to the over 15% increase in engine size... :(

[SKREMN]

B20 all the way!!!

[VT3C]

B20 is far superior but more expensive and involved in the buildup of the bottom end for high RPM action.

I say LS-VTEC (B18B block) is good trade-off for the budget minded enthusiast who wants more than B16 Power!!

plus B18B Block has slightly more displacement than a B18C block.

B16A head + B18B block will produce more power and torque than a B18C block with the same head. The ONLY advantage to using a B18C block would be that all the VTECoil plumbing is present meanint with use of a B18C timing belt, you can literally bolt the B16 Hean onto the B18C block.

[SHW.70Y]

Try a search there is pleanty of information on this topic. It's amazing how every person who hopes on asks the same question.

Have tried a search and found out some good info now im just asking for the opinions of others :D

[tinkerbell]

B16A head + B18B block will produce more power and torque than a B18C block with the same head. The ONLY advantage to using a B18C block would be that all the VTECoil plumbing is present meanint with use of a B18C timing belt, you can literally bolt the B16 Hean onto the B18C block.

yeah, excellent points, the LSVTEC is a very good and more accesable option.

BTW - the cost of doing the oil line etc is very minimal, considering the extra expense of the B18C block,

maybe around $250

plus a B18A/B block is only 300-500 compared to the B20B at 600 - 800

the LSVTEC has been very successful in the USA too,

check out the US forums like honda-tech.com or team-integra.net for info about LSVTEC conversions :thumbsup:

[SHW.70Y]

ive done further research and am considering putting in a b16a dohc vtec from an siR then going cam gears ,camshafts,cai,michrotech,ltb,exhaust,larger injecters and even possibly some internal work.
what do u guys think

[kayot1k]

i think ur way ahead of urself

[SHW.70Y]

i think ur way ahead of urself

what do u mean :confused:

[SKREMN]

dont go with what we all think
go with what you know and can afford
you may not require larger injectors?
what cam shafts?
whats considerd internal work???

[SHW.70Y]

dont go with what we all think
go with what you know and can afford
you may not require larger injectors?
what cam shafts?
whats considerd internal work???

im just tossing up ideas as im not quite sure about hondas thats all.
as for camshafts i was just searching through the TODA website and seeing what they have and as for whats considered internal work i was just once again tossing up ideas on hi comp pistons rods and crankshaft.
these are all ideas and all im asking is for a bit of assistance for a future project :!:

[SKREMN]

well the cam shafts have to suite the pistons so depending what you get down there you get up there?

[SKREMN]

it all comes down to your budget if you want high comp good set up buy the car tharsh that motor save up all your monies and then get the new engine

[SHW.70Y]

it all comes down to your budget if you want high comp good set up buy the car tharsh that motor save up all your monies and then get the new engine

so what ure saying is to buy it , thrash it then put in the new engine once it has been built???

[barefootbonzai]

i think ur way ahead of urself

Not unless you are mr bling, doesn't sound like you have enough knowledge for this to actually happen anytime soon. I think some more time researching is in order, then you can ask more specific questions that might return more meaningfull answers.

[incoming]

a type R engine put in will cost u nearly $10000

what the?
10K?

u can source b18c front cuts for 6K these days

[roar]

i'm pretty interested in this

i already have a b16a in my ek4

whats a rough cost associated with converting the bottom end to a b18c (keep in mind i already have the b16 head...duh)

also is it a difficult process/legality issues?

[2MPRSS]

what the?
10K?

u can source b18c front cuts for 6K these days

read proply what i said :rolleyes: then u can comment

[tinkerbell]

i'm pretty interested in this

i already have a b16a in my ek4

whats a rough cost associated with converting the bottom end to a b18c (keep in mind i already have the b16 head...duh)

also is it a difficult process/legality issues?

well, a B18C VTiR engine would be around 2000-3000 with manifolds and loom,

then sell your B16A for 800-1000

you need the B18C ECU to ensure you keep the dual runner intake manifold OR convert to a Skunk2 manifold and keep your EK ecu and maybe use a VAFC...

BUT you need to make sure the engine is the same OBD (ie the wiring/ECU and stuff) as your car, then it will be simple plug and play...

legality would include, engine same year or newer than your current car, must keep all emissions equipmnet and change the engine number with RTA

IMO - there is no point in converting a B16A to a B18C bottom end unless the bottom end is dirt cheap or built with forged internals

[Perry]

well, a B18C VTiR engine would be around 2000-3000 with manifolds and loom,

then sell your B16A for 800-1000

you need the B18C ECU to ensure you keep the dual runner intake manifold OR convert to a Skunk2 manifold and keep your EK ecu and maybe use a VAFC...

BUT you need to make sure the engine is the same OBD (ie the wiring/ECU and stuff) as your car, then it will be simple plug and play...

legality would include, engine same year or newer than your current car, must keep all emissions equipmnet and change the engine number with RTA

IMO - there is no point in converting a B16A to a B18C bottom end unless the bottom end is dirt cheap or built with forged internals

i agree with tinkerbell, but another suggestions is if u have mates that has b18cR's or b16a/B18c conversions doon to there ride have a spin in it then u can decide which way u really want to go

i would suggest to go b20 if u got the money just for the displacement wise