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View Full Version : DIY Timing/Ballance Belt replace. Video



ECU-MAN
18-01-2006, 11:49 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!




Do this DIY at your own risk. Get your valve timing wrong, pistons will bend the valves, you could cost your self thousands of dollars in damage to your engine.


this DIY is aimed at the more confident exprerienced back yarder. not newbies.



Aim: Change Timing and Balance belt
Required:
- 10mm spanner
- 14mm spanner
- 12mm spanner
- 10,12,14,17,19 mm socket 17mm deep socket is good to have
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- timing light
- big screw driver

Click here (http://ecu-man.com/diy/f22b1-timing-belt/timming%20belt_0001.wmv) ( right click and download ) 23Mb 22min long


Due to the complexity of doing a timing belt, I have made a video, if your doubtful, dont bother trying to change your timing belt your self. get a pro to do it.

if your confident, and are unsure on what needs to be done then watch this video and get some ideas.

the video is of a F22B type engine which has a balance belt.

DOHC and SOHC and non balance shaft motors are all the same concept, even quad cam, just harder to do.



as you will see in the video, you need to get access to the front of the engine if the engine is in the car, this means undoing and removing the altenator belt, aircon belt and power stearing belt.

undo the top front engine mount, suporting your engine with a Jack.

then follow the video.


BIG NOTE



dont get your valve timing wrong. look at your timing marks with your old belt on. make a good note of how it should be. Fit your new belts with the same markings.


do not force your engine to rotate, you could bend stuff. With the spark plugs out, your engine should rotate freely, no sudden compression fights.


after you have replaced the belt(s). and have put it all back together,

when your ready to start it. ( make sure you dont have a socket on crankshaft bolt.) start it up, make sure it sounds right.

turn it off.

fit the SCS connetor to bridge your ecu puting it in self diag mode ( where it tells you the fault codes ). engine light should come on the dash when you start the engine. allow the thermo fans to come on at least twice. then set your ignition timing as per the specs.


remove the SCS connector and road test.


during the road test make sure the engine has power and does not lack any power during acceleration.

also make sure it does not ping.

if its gutless and does not drive like it did before, you F@%ked UP. you will have to strip it all down and reset the valve timing.

thats prety much it

please let me know if you have any questions.











Click here (http://ecu-man.com/diy/f22b1-timing-belt/timming%20belt_0001.wmv) ( right click and download )



Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

michael_antoi
18-01-2006, 11:56 PM
is it possible for the timing belt to be too loose and the timing of the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys to be in sync still?

nice writeup btw

dloading as we speak

ECU-MAN
18-01-2006, 11:58 PM
yep, but there is a limmit before it starts to jump teeth

you will hear a horible noise when you start it up.

flapping type sound

michael_antoi
19-01-2006, 12:04 AM
ahh ok - its not that loose but would it being slightly loose cause any problems?

i think mines is a bit loose.


haha just watching this vid..

u went nuts on the crank pully bolt.!

michael_antoi
19-01-2006, 12:11 AM
also - i dont quite understand what u did to hold the tensioner in place...

ProECU
19-01-2006, 07:58 AM
"Too Tight, needs a smack"

does this work with women too?

locote
19-01-2006, 03:34 PM
CRANK PULLEY BOLT is a bitch thats the only thing that stopped me from changging my cams!!!!

ECU-MAN
19-01-2006, 10:38 PM
"Too Tight, needs a smack"

does this work with women too?

lol




women smack back,
they get your nut loose the first time as well :)

ECU-MAN
19-01-2006, 10:45 PM
ahh ok - its not that loose but would it being slightly loose cause any problems?

i think mines is a bit loose.


haha just watching this vid..

u went nuts on the crank pully bolt.!

slightly loose will have a different limmits to me and to you. but if its a bit loose, it will be ok, they tend to be noisey when they are to loose.

is it loose because of age or because of missadjustment.

you do what you gotta do to get that bolt off,

nothing in that video was prepaired, so thats how tight that bolt was, I have had wors.

locote
19-01-2006, 10:49 PM
F#$#$%^t i give up on that stupid bolt!!!
i went and got a new socket set today for 100 buks and the nut or bolt got completely rounded off!!!!!
arggggg!!!!
thats it not changing cams!!!!
either a b18c now or turbo kit!!!!
stupid tensioner bolt!!!!

ECU-MAN
19-01-2006, 10:51 PM
use vice grips to get it loose, then replace it.

wynode
19-01-2006, 10:52 PM
Farkin awesome John! Downloading the vid to have a look as we speak :)

locote
19-01-2006, 10:53 PM
how do i get vice grips in that small tight spot
?????????????????????????

Newcivic
18-05-2006, 03:45 PM
Has anyone actually done this? howd they go ?!

BlitZ
26-05-2006, 11:12 AM
haahahah this is a crack up...
the smack part is so funny... put it on you tube eheheh...
dont let snap on get hold of this...

great video...

the engine was out.. the crank bolt could have been removed by just jamming the flywheel..
you dont need to bash anything.. ahahahah

ECU-MAN
04-06-2006, 12:39 AM
that would involve removing the gearbox

I dont like locking the flywheel either. usually end in tears when something snapps. like an alumunium part ( block or GB )

Paul1985
04-06-2006, 01:52 AM
You are a truely awsome mechanic John. Great stuff, i havent d/l the vid yet. I will when i get a chance. I'm gonna wait until my rep points count to give you some, then ill hit you up lol.
We need more mechanics like you!

BlitZ
04-06-2006, 01:52 PM
that would involve removing the gearbox

I dont like locking the flywheel either. usually end in tears when something snapps. like an alumunium part ( block or GB )

you can just remove the starter motor.....

its not very likly that a jammed screw driver would crack your alloy transfer housing .. the crank bolt should be at about 177NM anyways...

it saves more tears than haveing a threaded crankshaft bolt....

Rice_banger
27-06-2008, 11:09 AM
how much harder would it be to do whil the engine is in the car ?

im just thinking that it would be a tight fit any pointers , im keen to do it

beeza
27-06-2008, 01:44 PM
Awesome John!!! 'Grrrrrrr' hehehe

Like John says: 'If the engine is in the car, this means undoing and removing the altenator belt, aircon belt and power stearing belt.

undo the top front engine mount, suporting your engine with a Jack.

then follow the video.'

I've done it 3 times now with my d16y4 with the help from my mechanic :)

It is a tight fit indeed.U need the right tools,i.e. a small rachet with the flexi extension bit,a deep socket piece to take off the engine mount as the bolts are too long for a normal socket,a breaker bar to fit on the long racket arm to snap the crank pulley bolt.

and patience.

I wouldn't do this you are confident you can do this.It's not easy until you know how to do it...

Rice_banger
27-06-2008, 09:02 PM
cheers for the advice bezza

alrite ammm i read on anther forum / site that there is a specail tool from honda which holds the crank / crank bolt in place so theres no need for air gun / doing the smack anyone care to eletrate on what i said ?

neut
07-07-2008, 11:55 AM
Im getting my water pump changed so im doing my timing belt too, but i just wanted to know is it necessary to change the timing belt tensioner too? My engine is b18c7 done 150,000kms thanks!

dsp26
07-07-2008, 12:50 PM
This is good stuff John... thanks to the thread bumper, i needed this :p

dsp26
07-07-2008, 12:51 PM
Im getting my water pump changed so im doing my timing belt too, but i just wanted to know is it necessary to change the timing belt tensioner too? My engine is b18c7 done 150,000kms thanks!

it's a "may as well" item... waterpump/belt kits should come with this.

but still, your already there so you may as well do it... like doing a flywheel when changing the clutch... labour is a pita!

Rice_banger
19-11-2008, 09:42 PM
amm the video i cant download it sigh wants a password

ECU-MAN
20-11-2008, 07:52 AM
video link fixed

cheers

Rice_banger
20-11-2008, 10:09 AM
Thanks , i just dont understand why the timing needs to be set again tough

tip on the crank bolt , go to a mechanic joint and get them to crack it , then tighten it just enough for the trip home and do the procedure ,i had a dream on doing it and watching ECU mans video and thought of it

yes people i dream about fellow ozhondians

ECU-MAN
20-11-2008, 02:09 PM
because things have changed between the crank and cam, belt tention/stretch will have an impact on the timing, even if its only minor.

beeza
20-11-2008, 02:20 PM
This is to get the tension right?