b16a1 sump gasket part and replacement (and thermostate q)

[Dxs]

Hey guys, I have a EF8 with a B16A1 and it seems to have an oil leak.

I took it to a local mechanic to get somethings done and to check the leak.

He said it is most likely from either the sump gasket or the crank seal. He said it would be logical to replace the sump gasket and if the leak still appears then go check out the crank seal.


Anyway, i am thinking about doing the gasket myself, infortunately i cant find anything in the workshop manual as of yet.

I was just wondering the process to replace the gasket.. And is it an actual gasket i can get from honda? If so is it the same as a b16a2 from say a gen3 crx/vtir civic? Or do i need some of the goo stuff? can/should i get that from honda?

also is the thermostate from a b16a1 the same as the ones from b16a2's???

thanks

[SPEEDCORE]

For sump gasket go to honda to get it. About $70.

Just state that its from a Gen 3 CRX or EK4 or EM1. Saying B16A to them is like hitting your head against a brick wall. When I asked for one for a EK4 civic they tried to give me a D series one the pecker heads! :rolleyes: You'll know the difference cause the B series one is like about 2cm wide and flat where the D series looks like a really thick black spaghetti :)

Anyway, basic run down is drain oil, remove header, remove sump, clean up old gasket remains and clean the mating surfaces, replace the gasket onto the pan and reverse the steps, making sure that you torque the bolts down to the appropriate lb/ft and do it in a sequence, ie. bottom left to top right and work your way around (can't remember exact sequence). Gasket goo is not a must..... some will dispute this though. Don't forget the oil!!:!: :!:

Thermostats are same from my understanding. As for your crank seal possibly being leaky.... I'd make sure its not comming from there. I don't like oil spraying on the belts :!:

Others I'm sure will chime in to correct me or elaborate further.

Good luck :thumbsup:

[Dxs]

thanks mate...
Well i told the mech to check the belts when adjusting the timing etc and he said they are fine..

so i am hoping it is the sump gasket..

Can anyone give me more specifics? no goo? Torque ratings etc? Order of bolting?


i looked all over the workshop pdf i have for my crx but it has nothing.. anyone know of any other pdf's for say b16's etc that i could use?
cheers

[iamhappy46]

Check your timing belt covers and camshaft gears for oil residue. If oil is present, I would say timing case oil seals + a new timing belt.

Use goo but do not put engine oil into the motor until the goo dries COMPLETELY(overnight). Fill it up with oil and there should be no more leaks. The sump gasket packet normally has instructions for torque ratings and often the bolting order as well.

[Dxs]

can i get the gasket goo from honda?
if not any product that you would recommend


+ can anyone give me anymore detail as to the whole process.. i cant seem to find specifics anywhere

[tinkerbell]

here you go, a Honda write up for you:

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/CivicManual/pdf/7-19.pdf

see page 7-21

and use "RTV" sealant in the black tube from auto parts store, it is similar to "Hondabond" but half the price...

follow step 14 to the letter...

[Dxs]

wicked, thanks tinkerbell.. just the info i was after..

the only thing that i am slightly confused on is using the sealant...
http://tinypic.com/m8mf68.jpg
From the diagrams.. do i just put a thin line of sealent on the areas as shown on the diagram on the left (and just as the diagram shows it)


and dobs of sealeant on the gasket as shown on the diagram on the right?


so 4 lines on the pan and 4 dops on the gasket?



then basically do up all bolts finger tight (only 6 bolts??) then torque them in order to 10n-m?



anything else i need to know, any other tips?
And tips on removing the old gasket? i was thinking just plastic scraper and some prepwash/wax grease remover

+ how long should i leave it for... 24 hours?


cheers! :thumbsup:

[tinkerbell]

the old gasket should come off as one piece, then clean both surfaces with paint thinner or prepwash...

i generally put the sealant all the way around the gasket to engine block surface, but that is because i always re-use the old gaskets...

for a new gasket, a dob of abt a 10c coin at the points marked on the LHS diagram should be fine...

FYI - the B16A sump does not have the same arch that the one in the diagram has (which is a D series sump, but all same principles e.g order and torque figures are the same...)

[tinkerbell]

i start and run my car as soon as i have finished putting it all back together, the hour or so this takes is probably enough for the sealant to settle...

[Dxs]

cheers mate.. will have a go tonight

[iamhappy46]

16 bolts connect block to sump

Leave the gasket goo for ATLEAST the recommended time on the tube. From memory, RTV is 6 hours.

[Dxs]

16 bolts.. then what order do i do them then?
all @ 10nm torque too?

[tinkerbell]

to be pedantically precicse, there are 6 studs that have nuts, and 12 bolts that hold the sump to the block...

[crxtasy]

The sump gasket is available from Honda, part no. 11251-p30-004 so no need to use sealant.. 10nm/7lb sounds right and just tighten from the centre outward in a criss cross pattern... and the thermostat no. is 19301-p08-316.

[tinkerbell]

no cris cross pattern involved at all...

you might be thinking of maifolds or flywheel bolts?

[Dxs]

havent got around to doing this yet.. has been damn hot, and i have been f-ing around with a stereo install.


just got a hold of the 98 integra manual and checked it out, should be the same being a b series (opposed to the d series civic one).

http://tinypic.com/mbk6qu.jpg


So from that, i should:
rip it the sump off.
Clean it and the block
Apply 10c piece size gasket goo to the 4 lines indicated on the left hand side diagram.
put the gasket on the sump (so the lip things face down).
then tighten the 6 nuts onto the studs finger tight in the order shown
then start from nut 1 and do every nut and bolt to 12nm torque clockwise.

what does 'in three steps' mean though?

and then let it cure for a while..

and then it should be all done?????

also my torque wrench is in cm.kgs
so 8.7 foot pounds is the required torque yeah? so foot pounds * 13.8 = cm.kgs
therefor my setting is 120.06cm.kgs?

[tinkerbell]

i three steps means;

you need to do 3 "laps" of the sump.

ie do NOT do each fastener up to 12Nm on the first go,

maybe 4Nm then 8Nm and then 12Nm on the final lap...

this ensures that the gasket is evenly torqued to the sump...

[tinkerbell]

ps - i dont know how to convert cm.kg to anything...

[Dxs]

ok thanks mate.. too bad it is too damn hot atm

+ thanks for the part numbers crxtasy.. might see you on the streets sometime too

:thumbsup::thumbsup: