Amp and Sub in stock Euro audio system

[TypeG]

just wondering is it possible to use amp and sub in stock audio system
also is that PnP or have to reiwre and stuff like that

thx

[euro77]

Of course! I got amp and sub with my stock headunit.
You need to use the err... god I can't remember the name... basically the stock head unit doesn't have the jack for the amp, and therefore you need to use this thing to convert the speaker line into the output line for the amp. Sorry, I haven't been brushing up my car audio knowledge for a while now. :(

Just remember... line converter... that's the name.

Other euro owners have also done the same setup (with stock headunit).

[Slow96GSR]

L.O.C.= Line Output Converter. They run 10 bucks up to 200 for the AudioControl 8 channel unit.

AudioControl units (http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/dept.asp?d_id=17612&l1=17612) that can take a line level input and output in to RCA's.

[SiReal]

Hifi supermarket sell such devices. Its a 4 channell L.O.C unit worth $113 approx. Basically run that into ur amp from ur stock HU, so HU > LOC > AMP then wire as you usually do.

Good luck!

[TypeG]

so how many channel do i need for running one 12' sub

[Peekay34]

Just run it off your front speakers from you head unit from using a High level to RCA convertor with I suggest a volume level control . At least you will have some control over it and run the remote wire from the ignition wire I have this setup in my Euro works fine. I had mine installed by GL Pro Sound in Melbourne they know how to pull the car apart, and was not that expensive. They are in Essendon Keilor Rd.

[TypeG]

sound so complicate....
how much does it set you back to get it done
coz i have amp and sub and as well as all the wires already

[genk-jomblo]

sound so complicate....
how much does it set you back to get it done
coz i have amp and sub and as well as all the wires already
Get a converter and when you wire your system .. get the signal from the speaker cable.

dont forget to use switch incase your system got storing ..

correct me if im wrong ... cheers.

NB: If possible change your head unit as well and you wouldn't be disappointed at all.

[Slow96GSR]

Change the head unit and you don't need the L.O.C.!! Then you will also have a better signal and less wires!

[genk-jomblo]

Change the head unit and you don't need the L.O.C.!! Then you will also have a better signal and less wires!
agreed. :)

[euro77]

Just run it off your front speakers from you head unit from using a High level to RCA convertor with I suggest a volume level control . At least you will have some control over it and run the remote wire from the ignition wire I have this setup in my Euro works fine. I had mine installed by GL Pro Sound in Melbourne they know how to pull the car apart, and was not that expensive. They are in Essendon Keilor Rd.

Hey I got mine done at GL Pro Sound as well. Mine was the first euro they've done, so I guess they wouldn't have any problem pulling your car apart :)

[TypeG]

I do like to install my previous system from my previous ride BUT i will need a custom mount to locate my HU which is not an easy thing

[kleung]

Me three - HU+front splits done at GL Pro, and I'm very happy with their work.

A lot of people seem to have achieved good results by using the LOC. From memory GL Pro sell a 4-ch Stinger LOC which I've heard good things about. The advice I had (before I decided to get a HU instead) was to make sure you get a good LOC, or you'll end up poor sound quality, engine noise, or both.

You can get a single DIN custom mount to replace the centre pocket, also from Stinger, for about $50. Looks great, matches up with the interior nicely.

Good luck!

[Slow96GSR]

Stinger LOC's (http://www.stingerelectronics.com/web/prods/electronics.asp)

Peripheral LOC's (http://peripheralelectronics.com/web/loc.asp#premium)

Peripheral is what we used as entry level products all the way to full out show cars. Most of the time we didn't use the Stinger LOC's unless it was all we had or the customer wanted it. They tend to be a little more costly as they are more high end and don't come in a cheap model. Peripheral has many levels, from high end to low end and many inbetween.

[TypeG]

Me three - HU+front splits done at GL Pro, and I'm very happy with their work.

A lot of people seem to have achieved good results by using the LOC. From memory GL Pro sell a 4-ch Stinger LOC which I've heard good things about. The advice I had (before I decided to get a HU instead) was to make sure you get a good LOC, or you'll end up poor sound quality, engine noise, or both.

You can get a single DIN custom mount to replace the centre pocket, also from Stinger, for about $50. Looks great, matches up with the interior nicely.

Good luck!

where about I can get a custom mount done?
GL Pro as well?

[Peekay34]

GL pro sound can source it for you.

[euro77]

GL Pro sound can even do their own custom mount I'm pretty sure.

[kleung]

Yep, definitely GL Pro can get it for you. They are a full service shop, so if you prefer they can make up a custom mount for you. But if all you want to do is fit a HU, this mounting kit does the job nicely, and matches the existing plastics very well.

This is what it looks like installed.

http://www.users.on.net/~kennethleung/OzHonda/Img_1145_small2.jpg (http://www.users.on.net/%7Ekennethleung/OzHonda/Img_1145_small2.jpg)

Excuse the rubber mats. :p

Apparently they didn't know about it until I told them. Anthony (the owner) told me that if he had known about that mounting kit earlier he probably would have bought a Euro instead of his current car. :D

Ken

[TypeG]

that mount kit looks good. how much is it?
however i got a ques.... if once I installed an aftermarket HU, can I still use my stock headunit at all(not at the same time for sure)

[kleung]

You can get a single DIN custom mount to replace the centre pocket, also from Stinger, for about $50. Looks great, matches up with the interior nicely.


Whether or not you can still use your factory HU depends on how you install your aftermarket HU. My original HU is still 'active' in that I can choose radio stations, manipulate the CD stacker etc, but it produces no sound because it's not connected to any speakers. The whole unit has to remain powered because it's integrated with the climate control.

I suppose if you really wanted to you could leave say, the rear speakers connected to your factory HU and run your front speakers & sub from your aftermarket HU. Or, you could get a LOC and connect the factory HU output to a line-in on your aftermarket HU, but then the question would be...why? The only reason I can think of is if you wanted to keep using the CD stacker. Some people on here who have replaced their factory HU just use the stacker for CD storage. :)

[TypeG]

so you guys do all the wiring yourself? is it hard to reach the wires at all? Any DIY diagram or sth teaching how to remove the panels?

btw, where is GL Pro?

[Hoffy]

Just run it off your front speakers from .

If the amp and sub are going in the boot them why wouldn't you take the signal from the rear speakers. It would be less hassle to tap into the wires. All you need to do is get power to the amp from the front.

Does anyone have any suggestions for mounting the sub so that it does not hinder the rear seat access to the boot?

[kleung]

TypeG: No, my install was done completely by GL Pro (http://www.glprosound.com.au/contactus.htm). They are in North Essendon (Keilor Rd), opposite Preston Holden. Look for the purple building. :) Watching the professionals do the install looked easy, but then again if you know what you're doing it probably IS easy.

Hoffy: What about the recessed bit at the corners of the boot near the tail lights? Maybe you could build an enclosure around that? The only problem then I guess is access to the tail light bulbs when they need to be replaced. Or maybe you could mount the sub enclosure to one side of the rear-seat opening so you can still access the other side?

[Peekay34]

If the amp and sub are going in the boot them why wouldn't you take the signal from the rear speakers. It would be less hassle to tap into the wires. All you need to do is get power to the amp from the front.

Does anyone have any suggestions for mounting the sub so that it does not hinder the rear seat access to the boot?


Because if you want to install a Bass Level COntroller (volume control) you would not run from the back of the car to the front to the back again. Also it gives you a option to fade out your rear 6x9's so you get less rattle.

[BusterSonic12]

which audio mod should i get 1st?? an amp or a subwoofer?? plus anyone got their audio done in sydney??

[EuroDude]

A Subwoofer is useless without an Amp, so get an Amp first.
At least you can run your 6x9's of the Amp while saving up for the Sub ;)


If you want to keep the stock Honda Head Unit, get an Amp that can take normal speaker inputs instead of just RCA.


This is what I have, its too loud for me lol:

Audison SRx3 Amp, 3ch, Italian quality/performance, accepts speaker inputs:
http://www.audison.it/prodotti.asp?idlinea=5&idprodotto=49&lang=eng

Adire Shiva 10" or 12" Subwoofer (8ohm DVC 300w) great performance at a great price, ~$300 comparable to $1000 subwoofers:
http://www.adireaudio.com/Mobile/ShivaSeries.htm

[BusterSonic12]

i have a satnav, so i don't think i will be changing my headunit :P
what are some good brands of amps on the market, with a reasonable price on them?? also where did you get your system done? or you did it yourself?


A Subwoofer is useless without an Amp, so get an Amp first.
At least you can run your 6x9's of the Amp while saving up for the Sub ;)


If you want to keep the stock Honda Head Unit, get an Amp that can take normal speaker inputs instead of just RCA.


This is what I have, its too loud for me lol:

Audison SRx3 Amp, 3ch, Italian quality/performance, accepts speaker inputs:
http://www.audison.it/prodotti.asp?idlinea=5&idprodotto=49&lang=eng

Adire Shiva 10" or 12" Subwoofer (8ohm DVC 300w) great performance at a great price, ~$300 comparable to $1000 subwoofers:
http://www.adireaudio.com/Mobile/ShivaSeries.htm

[xiang]

I've currently got a sub +amp in my euro aswell.. i had thoughts of buying a new HU, but seeing as the Euro already has one intergrated into the dash.. why not use it?

I'd prefer just to have 1 HU, and save that space from that compartment.
I used the L.O.C method, tapped it onto the rear speaker. It works fine, saved me from buying a new HU, and running my RCA cables back to the front of the car again.. Just needed to get the Earth and Power in. But, you're going to need a switch for the amp. Mine was done pretty easy, installed a little light aswell tells me weather its on or not. Mounted it next to the VSA button.. and it looks keeeeeeeewl! :D

[2jz]

Is there any way to run the on/off line of the amp from somewhere other than back of the head unit so i don't have to pull the stock head unit out? I don't want to have a separate switch for the amp either.

[EuroDude]

Buster, yeah I installed it myself - its easy once you know how.

What I did was:

1) Screw the Amp to the back of the rear seat.

2) Positive Amp cable: Battery->O-ring connector->30cm Red 8gauge cable->40Amp Fuse->~3meters 8gauge red cable through the rubber grommit in the passenger firewall, under the carpet and through the center console, under the rear middle carpet bit->under the rear seat and into the amp.

3) 60cm Negative 8gauge cable attached to the large bolt under the rear seat.

4) The Amp's remote wire routes under the seat into the middle console, attaches to the 12volt accessory power connector in the center (That one in the armrest compartment, not the front ciggy lighter).

5) Like xiang, the stock rear speaker wires go straight into the Audison SRx3, then outputted back to the rear speakers, and a sub.

6) replaced the front 6" with some decent 5.25" boston speakers.

...also have an iPod Video with an IceLinkPlus attached to the stock HU.

[2jz]

12v into the remote power input is ok with most amps?

[EuroDude]

Yep, worked fine with my Sony, Audison, and Altec amps.

[xiang]

Is there any way to run the on/off line of the amp from somewhere other than back of the head unit so i don't have to pull the stock head unit out? I don't want to have a separate switch for the amp either.

I'm not to sure about a switch being in the back of the headunit, i didn't do my homework and opened up the centre console, looking for RCA plugs, but to find the AUX port. I don't know exactly what you mean by a seperate switch for the amp? do you mean like for example, having a flick switch to turn off your amp?

Cos this is what i have, as i said before. Other than that, correct me if im wrong. but i dont know of any other way you're gonna be able to turn your amp off with out a seperate switch if you're running it off your stock HU.

You can go for the tight ass option with a short wire and turn it on and off physically by connecting and disconnecting the wire everytime you get in and out of the car. I'd guess you wouldnt go for that option. But theres a choice. lol.

Oh yeah.. just rememberd, some guys have tapped the switch on to some wires that would turn on with the ignition.

have a look here.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40656&highlight=euro+amp

Or just ask eurodude if u cant find anything.

[EuroDude]

Regarding the Remote-In for the Amp...

Apparently there is a Remote wire you can tap into on the TSX's Head unit since it has its own Amp under the HU, but the Euro's dont have a built-in amp, therefore I doubt there is a Remote-In wire you can tap into.

You dont need a switch to turn on/off the Amp. All you need to do is attach the Remote-In wire from the Amp into a 12volt ignition source (one that is only powered when the ignition is on position II.

A common ignition source is the fuse box under the dash or the Powered Antenna line in the rear, but an easier ignition 12v source is the Accessory plug in the middle compartment under the arm-rest (well the 06 Euro has one, not sure about the previous years).

Just remove the black rubber base, unscrew the accessory plug housing, and attach the remote-in wire to the back of the plug (there is a small screw on the bottom). This way you can still use the accessory plug for other things if needed.

Using an ignition source means you dont have to worry about turning on/off the amp everytime you drive :)

[BusterSonic12]

hey man. thanks for the info. you coming to the usual cruise tomorow night?? i ll be there for my 1st time, mayb you can show me your system :D



Buster, yeah I installed it myself - its easy once you know how.

What I did was:

1) Screw the Amp to the back of the rear seat.

2) Positive Amp cable: Battery->O-ring connector->30cm Red 8gauge cable->40Amp Fuse->~3meters 8gauge red cable through the rubber grommit in the passenger firewall, under the carpet and through the center console, under the rear middle carpet bit->under the rear seat and into the amp.

3) 60cm Negative 8gauge cable attached to the large bolt under the rear seat.

4) The Amp's remote wire routes under the seat into the middle console, attaches to the 12volt accessory power connector in the center (That one in the armrest compartment, not the front ciggy lighter).

5) Like xiang, the stock rear speaker wires go straight into the Audison SRx3, then outputted back to the rear speakers, and a sub.

6) replaced the front 6" with some decent 5.25" boston speakers.

...also have an iPod Video with an IceLinkPlus attached to the stock HU.

[EuroDude]

No probs. Got plans this Friday but yeah maybe I'll come along another time. :)

[lilwilliam]

Regarding the Remote-In for the Amp...

Apparently there is a Remote wire you can tap into on the TSX's Head unit since it has its own Amp under the HU, but the Euro's dont have a built-in amp, therefore I doubt there is a Remote-In wire you can tap into.

You dont need a switch to turn on/off the Amp. All you need to do is attach the Remote-In wire from the Amp into a 12volt ignition source (one that is only powered when the ignition is on position II.

A common ignition source is the fuse box under the dash or the Powered Antenna line in the rear, but an easier ignition 12v source is the Accessory plug in the middle compartment under the arm-rest (well the 06 Euro has one, not sure about the previous years).

Just remove the black rubber base, unscrew the accessory plug housing, and attach the remote-in wire to the back of the plug (there is a small screw on the bottom). This way you can still use the accessory plug for other things if needed.

Using an ignition source means you dont have to worry about turning on/off the amp everytime you drive :)

a more simple way is just find the accessory (Remote wire) from the cigarett litgher.

[directedfx]

Hey guys,

If you need a remote wire to switch on your amps only when you turn the cd/radio on ONLY, then its the yellow/green stripe wire that comes out of the factory head unit. If you want to access this without removing the unit, then just remove the centre cabin (just below the unit) and inside to your left you will see 2 single wires running down. One will be in black tubing. Open this to reveal your remote turn on wire(yellow/green stripe). Splice a connection from there and run it through the centre console to your amp. To be sure, use a voltmeter and turn off and on the stereo.

Let me know if you need any further help :)

[JetLee]

For wiring up my subwoofer to the factory system, I have just purchased a PAC Trunk LOC (line output coverter, speaker wire to RCA) from ebay.

PAC-Trunk-LOC-Adj-2-Ch-Line-Output-Converter (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAC-Trunk-LOC-Adj-2-Ch-Line-Output-Converter-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122QQcatego ryZ38636QQihZ008QQitemZ180287176488QQrdZ1QQsspagen ameZWD2V)

It allows you to not only convert your speaker signal to RCA, but also supplies a remote amp trigger signal to your amplifier when it identifies a signal via the speaker inputs.

I am then running RCA connection from the LOC to a JL Audio CL-RLC 2-Ch REMOTE LEVEL CONTROL / LINE DRIVER. Refer to link below:

JL-AUDIO-CL-RLC (http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-CL-RLC-2-Ch-REMOTE-LEVEL-CONTROL-LINE-DRIVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4506Q2em20Q2el11 16QQitemZ170213710995)

This module allows you to split the rear audio signals into 2, and let you control the volume of 1 of the signal. So basically you fit a volume control at the front of the vehicle to control your subwoofers presense. Plus you will have a spare RCA output, if you would like to run an amplifier for your rear speakers.

Once all installed, I will post again and supply feedback on the quality.

(I will be running a single Kicker CVR 12" sub with Cadence 400W RMS Monoblock amp.) Should be more than sufficient!