supercharging my dc2

[haiz]

im still fresh on this forum due to me only having my car (dc2 vtir) for approx. 2mnths. and recently i have been thinking about supercharging it, my friends have been giving their opinions about s/c or quad throttle my engine.. :confused: my friends have said that t/c my engine would kill my engine life. since this is my first car i want to keep it for at least a couple of years down the track. wat are the price diff. on s/c my engine and t/c my engine?

can an expert on supercharging/turbocharging give me a basic run down on how, cost of s/c and turbocharging, setup, labour, engine life after s/c, how would this compare to t/c, performance, where in melbourne, certain places or people i should meet for the s/c? i'd like to know as much as i can about my dc2 vtir before and after the s/c before i really get my hands dirty and s/c it :) .

cheers thanks for the feedbak guys

p.s ive searched but have not come down with results that entirely answer my questions

[saxman]

superchargers and turbos do the same thing. There's no reason one would make a bigger difference than the other on engine life. All comes down to the tune and the set up, etc...


as for cost, in all my experience, with all the turbo'd hondas I've set up, etc, turboed ones tend to make more power and WAY more torque for a fraction of the cost of a supercharger. Granted, I'm from the states, where prices are a lot different then out there, but that's my experience.

[BiGANG]

hey mate, turbo wont kill your engine, thats rubbish. boost is boost whether it comes from a turbo or a blower, the problem with supercharging the dc2 is only 2 places make off the shelf kits for our cars. JRSC (jackson racing) and Vortech. I was considering the JR kit mainly because of cost but after speaking with some ppl into performance hondas in australia, i was informed the JR kit will be a real hassle to fit (custom pulleys, trouble running alternator, clearance issues etc.) so the only real option for the dc2 is the vortech which is considerable more expensive although is a pretty looking kit. For the same money which would probably end up around the 10K mark if you account for ECU, injectors and exhaust mods. A turbo kit of this value would outpower considerably this kit running the same amount of boost. So IMO i wouldnt get a supercharger unless you wanted to take your car to shows and wanted it to stand out OR have way too much money to throw around. For less money you can get a decent low boost turbo kit that will make more than enough power to run your car on the street.

[haiz]

thnx guys..from the sounds of it cost wise im might end up t/c my car. so engine life wont get cut short with t/c? i would probably love 2 run around 8psi for everyday driving, can anyone lead me in the direction of wat setup..kit? a list of wat i need.
being considerably new, how much will this set me bak? any places recommended in Melbourne?

thanks again guys. really appreciate the response :thumbsup:

[Slow96GSR]

Cost wise the JRSC kit costs about 5k USD and the Vortec is about 4k USD. A good turbo kit can run 2-5k USD. A turbo will be able to provide more boost and can be easily modified where as the S.C. blower can not be done with just a swap, You can go from a t3/t4 turbo to a t60 turbo by just swapping the unit, takes about 15 minutes. The S.C.'s have pulleys up to 18 psi and turbos can boost to 40psi+ and can be doubled up. The turbo can be finely tuned for any amount of boost where as the S.C. has increments like 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18psi's. You don’t have to build up a motor when using 10-12psi boost but much more and I would at least run new ARP studs all around and a new head gasket. 20psi and over I’d build the whole motor. As for motor life, depends on the tune and how much boost. I’ve seen cars run forever with 15psi on stock internals and I’ve seen cars blow up with 8psi on fully built motors. It’s the driver too. If you run in the boost zone 99% of the time at high rpm’s that’s not the best thing, but the turbo isn’t fully at fault. I would feel safe saying you can run a good amount of boost(10-12psi) on stock internals with a S.C. or turbo and spend 2-5k USD. You will need fuel managment and getting Hondata or a AEM EMS wouldn't hurt. Jackson Racing had an offer that for 4500ish you could get the S.C. kit and a Hondata setup all in one kit. Check Ebay for the EMS and Hondata also for the turbo or S.C. as there are always a bunch on there.

Turbo parts:
Turbo
Manifold
Downpipe
Wastgate
Intercooler
I.C. piping
Blow off valve
Fuel management system... Injectors, Adjustable F.P.R., AEM EMS or Hondata or whatever you want to use.
Turbo timer
Boost controller... If you get the Hondata or AEM EMS they have the controller built in and all you need is the solenoid. GM ones work well and cost like 50-100 USD new!


That's what I got in my kit... cost me about 1400 USD to put together! 20-30 psi!

[EGB16A]

read through this

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22651

and research from there :D

[Slow96GSR]

LOL "Honda engine blocks are not as weak as many knucklehead Americans would have you believe"

I totally agree with that. I had sooooo many people tell me "I HAD to sleeve my block" to do 10-15psi or higher!!! The stock bore will survive 15-20 psi even more when tuned right. It's only when you go .040+ that you should look into sleeves, and .080 over needs sleeves for 20+psi. The cylinder walls just get too thin to handle 10krpm!! And the stress can kill you with out a good tune! I think I hit the way beyond extreme budget point a few years back!! I wouldn’t change it for anything! Except a twin turbo’d S2K!!

What I never saw in there was anything about lower compression pistons. Do you find that keeping the stock C/R is just as good/safe as lower compression pistons? How about rods and a crankshaft?

Also the lightweight flywheel is ok. We tend to use the 11-14lbs chromoly. See if it's too light it will spin up fast but also drop in speed fast too. You have to find a mid point. You want to get up to speed/rpms fast but you want the rpm drop off to only be 4-5krpms. Lets say the turbo kicks in fully at 4krpms, the max rpms for this car is 9k and the drop off is 5k with the chromoly and 6-6500 with aluminum. The chromoly would be the best because the motor would drop to 4krpms and the turbo would already be kicked in for boost. No lag! We find that the faster you can get you rpms up the fast you are in the ¼ mile. This means, hopefully, more wins. What have you all found with this? Also I have seen a few Aluminum ones shatter!! It’s pretty scary but funny to!!

[saxman]

LOL "Honda engine blocks are not as weak as many knucklehead Americans would have you believe"

I totally agree with that.

ironically, it seems much more common place for the folks on here to think that it's necessary to build the engine for any boost when it's MUCH more common place in the states to run the crap out of stock internalled honda engines

[Slow96GSR]

Ya I see that too. We got kids coming in asking for a 75 shot of nitrous and they have a car with 100k+ miles and it's stock. Then the next week they come in and need a new motor. Some would do the same with a turbo kit. They would boost to like 25psi and the head would fall apart or blow a gasket. Which led to more issues. Not too many people build up their motors enough to run good boost. The minimum I would run is ARP stud kit and beefier gaskets. I would do that to and car not equipped from the factory with boost. Better safe than sorry and it's only about 1k USD to do it! If you're spending 5k USD on a turbo what's 1k USD more to keep from breaking a motor?