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View Full Version : oil baffles...are they needed?



.::F[L]Y::.
15-02-2006, 08:51 PM
hey guys,

just wondering if oil baffles would be needed for tracking applications? I have heard stories of engines blowing up due to oil starvation through hard cornering. Would oil baffles only be needed for extreme circumstances? Just curious as i was planning on running semi slicks for upcoming trackdays but friends have advised that due to the extra grip and higher speed conering capabilites i might need oil baffle??

gelo
15-02-2006, 08:59 PM
if u run semi's then its a very good idea to get a baffled pan
because of the higher G u can pull with semi slicks in corners
oil mite lean to one side of the pan and hence oil starvation

.::F[L]Y::.
15-02-2006, 09:01 PM
Would anyone know wher this can be done and rough prices?

revNhevN
15-02-2006, 09:27 PM
im getting one put in my sump. Might as well do it as my sump will be off to get a temperature probe put in. Think it was $15 to get one welded in. better than paying $450 for a j's racing one.

2MPRSS
15-02-2006, 09:27 PM
Trap door baffled oil pan for Honda s2000 is like $800 not installed man i was looking at these like 2 years ago best use for anything except street tyres.

added pic

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b361/2MPRSS/ooooo.jpg

.::F[L]Y::.
15-02-2006, 09:30 PM
$800??? damn omar! was this any particular brand?

Revnhevn- where are you getting yours welded?

revNhevN
15-02-2006, 09:33 PM
Toda. It doesnt have trap doors. Will look similar to the j's racing one. This is for a b16a btw. Should be same for b18c.

2MPRSS
15-02-2006, 09:36 PM
you will get a new pan with trap doors,will take around 1 hour to fit aparently no brand name :)

Project R
15-02-2006, 09:39 PM
There's 2 choices-

1. You could go and buy an oil baffle. It might cost from $450 upwards.

2. Or you could take the oil pan thats on your engine to a fabicator and weld a sheet of metal in there, you can make it look like the oil baffle in choice 1. I'm not to sure about the price on this.

Project R
15-02-2006, 09:46 PM
im getting one put in my sump. Might as well do it as my sump will be off to get a temperature probe put in. Think it was $15 to get one welded in. better than paying $450 for a j's racing one.

Are you sure it $15 to weld it cause it seems very cheap.

tinkerbell
15-02-2006, 09:58 PM
i did mine for $0 with some old scrap galvanised steel and some rivits...

the pain is taking the sump off, as this takes a few hours...

|N|
15-02-2006, 09:59 PM
15 bucks seems too cheap to be true....
i ll go do it tmr if its 15 bucks...

revNhevN
15-02-2006, 10:00 PM
it doesnt include the labour to take the sump off.

|N|
15-02-2006, 10:02 PM
it doesnt include the labour to take the sump off.

so how much in total do u know?
i m semi interested

.::F[L]Y::.
15-02-2006, 10:04 PM
i might go have a chat to Adrian down at toda tomr then :)

|N|
15-02-2006, 10:06 PM
Y::.']i might go have a chat to Adrian down at toda tomr then :)

jon when u find out let me know the numbers too... if its cheap i might get it done

revNhevN
15-02-2006, 10:06 PM
im going on saturday to get it done. water/oil temp sensors, baffled sump, oil filter and oil change.

tinkerbell
15-02-2006, 10:07 PM
http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208114

smoknhothonda
16-02-2006, 07:07 AM
Moroso make a baffled oil pan for most popular honda's, and even OBX have them on the market, although I have heard fitment is a bit of an issue with some of them.

Locally try rocket industries for the Moroso pans, they may be quite pricey but they are a great pan, with not only a baffle, but also they are enlarged to a hold a greater oil capacity compared to the stock pan (generally they are bigger by 0.5-1L)

fatboyz39
16-02-2006, 07:52 AM
im getting one put in my sump. Might as well do it as my sump will be off to get a temperature probe put in. Think it was $15 to get one welded in. better than paying $450 for a j's racing one.

woah $15 bucks, nice...does that include the baffle too?

Q_ball
16-02-2006, 07:56 AM
spose it cant hurt to have one la...
team west y0!

.::F[L]Y::.
16-02-2006, 03:43 PM
im jus gona get a template made up and do it myself :) doesnt look to hard to do.

tinkerbell
16-02-2006, 03:51 PM
Y::.']im jus gona get a template made up and do it myself :) doesnt look to hard to do.

see here for my experience:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=333225

.::F[L]Y::.
16-02-2006, 05:15 PM
thanks tinkerbell. very nice link. :thumbsup:

although would it realli be needed for tracks like wakefield? I know that people who attend trackdays at eastern creek would recommend it just for the long left hand corner.

seems like all baffle styles all look the same, except some of the more expensive ones on the market having the chambers.

tinkerbell
16-02-2006, 05:24 PM
Y::.']
although would it realli be needed for tracks like wakefield?

geez, i am revealing myself all over this thread... :o

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=289710

.::F[L]Y::.
16-02-2006, 07:42 PM
geez, i am revealing myself all over this thread... :o

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=289710

ohhhh, i remeber reading about this. This was just before the cruise up to the blue mountains :)

wynode
16-02-2006, 07:50 PM
I was gonna say that wakefield has a hard left hander (the fish hook).

But if you're running anything other than street tyres....then i'd say a baffled oil pan is best!

SPEEDCORE
16-02-2006, 09:01 PM
Installed mine today..... nice way to take a day off from work. :p http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v698/SPEEDCORE/SPEEDCORE/P1010215.jpg

Big thanx to Chris from Quikmaz (Capalaba) for the welding. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

wynode
16-02-2006, 10:32 PM
How imporatant is the design for you guys who have done DIY jobs? Have you copied a known/working design and fabricated it yourself?

Reason I ask is that you won't know if it works/doesn't work until its too late! (unless you run an oil pressue gauge and montior it before and after the baffle is installed?).

.::F[L]Y::.
16-02-2006, 11:36 PM
i guess from all the designs i have seen, its mainly to reduce the amount of oil surging to one side, so pretty much as long as you have some sort of wall there will minimise the chance of oil starvation around a high speed corner? Design of the baffle will be up to personal choice i guess. I will design mine similar to that of tinkerbell. I guess any baffle will be better than not having one at all.

SPEEDCORE
17-02-2006, 07:31 AM
How imporatant is the design for you guys who have done DIY jobs? Have you copied a known/working design and fabricated it yourself?

The top plate was one that was laser cut by a member here a while ago... that top plate was said to have been a copy of a well known brand. That was the top plate..... as for the lips people where left to their own devices to figure that out which is good cause the top plate was a great base to start upon.

To me the overall design is important and I think it mainly comes down to the lips. How the lips extend down into the bottom of the pan, I think this is cruicial. Too small lip, you are possibly not going to get any "slap down" effect of the oil, too long ie. touching the bottom well you can guess that will restrict drain back to around the pickup area. Issues with overall drainback must be looked at too. That is why ultimately I am very fond of trapdoor style baffles cause when you look at them..... there is no "plate" to impede drainback...... it basically all drips back straight into the pan as quick as it drips from above.

Still.... I see no problem what so ever in terms of drainback ability.... at least with my sump. Just remeber that if you have a low oil level that the baffles are not going to save you! And yes.... a pressure gauge is all that can be really used to measure its effectiveness.

wynode
17-02-2006, 09:24 AM
Thanks for the reply.

John.....just remember that your S2K (being RWD) will most likely have a different pickup and pan to the B-Series FWDs. So you'll have to copy a S2K baffled sump design (which you probably already figured anyway!).

.::F[L]Y::.
17-02-2006, 10:59 AM
Thanks for the reply.

John.....just remember that your S2K (being RWD) will most likely have a different pickup and pan to the B-Series FWDs. So you'll have to copy a S2K baffled sump design (which you probably already figured anyway!).

yep, all good wyn :D im getting a template of one of the s2ki members so i can cut out my own. I will post it up when im done :)

SPEEDCORE
17-02-2006, 11:22 AM
Y::.']I will post it up when im done :)

:thumbsup: Please do....

SPEEDY

revNhevN
19-02-2006, 07:31 PM
Couldnt get the baffle in my B16a sump. Hard to explain but. Apparently got some weird sump that does not have any point to weld the baffle too.

fatboyz39
19-02-2006, 10:06 PM
Couldnt get the baffle in my B16a sump. Hard to explain but. Apparently got some weird sump that does not have any point to weld the baffle too.

if you can't weld..try riverting it :p:p

SPEEDCORE
20-02-2006, 07:36 AM
Couldnt get the baffle in my B16a sump. Hard to explain but. Apparently got some weird sump that does not have any point to weld the baffle too.

:confused: :confused: That's strange! Throw up a couple of pics for us to see.

revNhevN
20-02-2006, 11:19 AM
Cant weld or rivet. The baffle will flap around. Here is what is missing.
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/893/untitled8aw1.png

Dxs
20-10-2006, 12:34 PM
ok.. i just got a baffle plate to put in my sump..
and now i have a few questions to pose.

-I am just gonna rivet it.. i reckon 4 rivets should be fine.. imo there wouldnt be enough force to bend it or anything.. any objections?

-Anyone know if the inner lip is really needed? And how deep it should be/the purpose.. I might just get some aluminium sheeting and pop rivet a lip on.. check pic

-Also i have noticed that most people have a gap between the sidewall.. as the scribbly line shows

http://i11.tinypic.com/2rnec5c.jpg

tinkerbell
20-10-2006, 01:14 PM
i used 4 rivets on mine,

kept the gap close on the edges,

i made a lip on mine... it is only 10mm deep

i used galvanised steel sheet, cheap and easy to cut with a jigsaw...

Dxs
20-10-2006, 01:57 PM
tinker.. how about the lip.. u rivet that on too.. much like how i am illustrating in pink?

i got the plate/baffle from jdmyard.. nice fit..but needs a lip

tinkerbell
20-10-2006, 09:23 PM
here you go:

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle007.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle006.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle004.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle005.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle003.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle008.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle002.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/tinkerbell/baffle/sumpbaffle001.jpg

you get the idea :D

ALL PICTURES COPYRIGHT TINKERBELL

tinkerbell
20-10-2006, 09:31 PM
you can't quite tell,

but i pushed the centre in/downwards so it was similar to a bowl shape, so the oil could be encouraged towards the middle...

SPEEDCORE
20-10-2006, 11:46 PM
ALL PICTURES COPYRIGHT TINKERBELL

Knew I had forgotten to add something on my post with the pic.... LOL

Dxs
22-10-2006, 01:19 AM
thanks tink..

so ghetto too