oil servicing - couple of q's

[EuroDude]

1) I was gonna change my tranny oil the other day, but I cant get the 17mm [edit]FILL bolt loose - the idi0t gearbox mechanic used a hydrolic bolt remover/fastener and tightened it up very hard even without using anti seize Im guessing.
Are there electric bolt removers that I can buy? One that has a "crack" feature and can get into tight spaces? Maybe I need to get a 90degree adapter or something?

2) I changed the engine oil but forgot to replace the filter, will I need to re-drain all the oil to replace the filter? I'm guessing alot of oil will spill out if I dont.

[bennjamin]

the drain bolt is located right underneath the gb - its opened without a socketpiece - you install a 3/8th ratchet (i think) and simply undo and thats it.

like this
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/3IMG_4950-med.jpg


The 17mm located on the diff housing is the "fill hole" - you CAN re-fill the MTF via taking out the VSS (located ontop of the diff housing).


Also , you need to drain most of the oil to change the oil filter.

[EuroDude]

Actually I just realised it was the 17mm Fill hole bolt I was trying to get off. Sry bout that. The rachet drain plug is not a problem.
I can see a 1cm vertical tube with a plastic "hat" screwed onto it - just below the distributor. Is that the VSS?

Either way, I prefer to get the 17mm bolt off so I can put the correct amount of MTF in. Can you recommend a powered device I can buy? That bolt is on very very tight.
I need to get one anyway since there are other screws that are impossible to remove (the coolant drain bolt above the oil filter for example).


I'll use a clean bowl to drain the engine oil and put it back in afterwards - hopefully dirt doesnt fall in whilst draining it.


cheers.

[bennjamin]

if u want , come over to my place - i have a powered impact wrench - its pretty strong and within a few goes should bet it off (i live in syd too - pm me mate)

otherwise just use a breaker bar and get all teh leverage u can to crack it

[EuroDude]

Yeah a breaker bar may do the trick - i'll get one of those and give it a go, otherwise I may pop by. I'm guessing those powered impact wrench's are expensive.


Thx for the help.

[SPEEDCORE]

I can see a 1cm vertical tube with a plastic "hat" screwed onto it - just below the distributor. Is that the VSS?

No that is actually the gearbox vent. The VSS is the speed sensor that is on the same top side of the gearbox but further towards the firewall. You however have to unbolt this sensor out where as the gearbox vent you just pull the little rubber breather off.

Along with the fill plug, and VSS method.... you CAN fill from the vent. I did my last g/b oil change like this 2 weeks ago and have done on previous occasions where I was being lazy to undo the fill plug or forgot to get a washer.

I don't recommend doing it this way unless you are very patient!! Tubing and funnel and your all set.... just be sure to fill the funnel with very small amounts of oil at a time if you do it with this method, reason is that pressure difference will build up and you will get oil push back up the funnel and spray all over you as it tries to equal the pressure out.

[EuroDude]

I see, thx for that info.

Doh I forgot to get a washer.

Why do you need to replace the washer everytime u change the tranny oil? Is it really that important?

[bennjamin]

I see, thx for that info.

Doh I forgot to get a washer.

Why do you need to replace the washer everytime u change the tranny oil? Is it really that important?

yeah. You do it every 40,000kms minimum...so make it count :)
I changed after a gearbox / clutch install ( only 10,000kms) and the washer was bad already - i didnt change it and it leaked significantly.

[SPEEDCORE]

I would say you could get away with not replacing the filler one..... though the drain one and also the drain one for the engine sump is important.

They are a crush washer..... their purpose is pretty much to serve as a gasket when you tighten them to the appropriate torque. Once you undo the drain bolt, this washer will no longer be of any use. Ultimately you could use it again by tightening to a higher torque to make it seal.... but then you run the risk of screwing up the threads.... and you would also be no better than the muppets that tightened up the bolt you have had trouble getting off.

[EuroDude]

hmm well its been like 70,000km lol... no worries i'll replace the washer. Dont wanna risk drying up the gearbox.

thx

[EuroDude]

I would say you could get away with not replacing the filler one..... though the drain one and also the drain one for the engine sump is important.

They are a crush washer..... their purpose is pretty much to serve as a gasket when you tighten them to the appropriate torque. Once you undo the drain bolt, this washer will no longer be of any use. Ultimately you could use it again by tightening to a higher torque to make it seal.... but then you run the risk of screwing up the threads.... and you would also be no better than the muppets that tightened up the bolt you have had trouble getting off.

Looks like I need to get one for the engine sump as well. :o
I wasnt aware they were crush washers, thx for clearing things up.

Now I just gotta sort out that pesky CAM seal..

[bennjamin]

dont forget ;)

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30999

[EuroDude]

Yep I'm aware of that guide (same engine as well!) but I dont have the right tools plus I'm not confident with engine internals yet - fooling around with TDC, resealing the cover, etc. I'll just get my mech to do it ;)

ps. its that lone exhaust CAM seal on the driver side thats leaking, not the two main ones near the timing belt. I was hoping I could just lift the CAM on the driver side to replace the seal - doubt it though.
Maybe I can just glue araldite around teh plastic CAM cover lol (j/k) :D

[spanks]

You can remove the cam plug,clean it and seal with threebond 1216 and it won't leak again..be very careful when refitting the rear exhaust cam bearing though..10Nm of torque on the bolts if memory serves right...

[EuroDude]

Thanks for tip. Where can I get the ThreeBond 1216 stuff? A hardware store?
Google reckons its removable, so I may try it.

How does that plastic CAM cover come off? I tried prying it out but no luck.It looks like I need to remove the head cover, then unscrew two bolts above the CAM and lift the betal bracket thing off.

Maybe I can simply seal the outer CAM cover instead since there is a 1mm gap I can get into.

[bennjamin]

How does that plastic CAM cover come off? I tried prying it out but no luck.It looks like I need to remove the head cover, then unscrew two bolts above the CAM and lift the betal bracket thing off.

Maybe I can simply seal the outer CAM cover instead since there is a 1mm gap I can get into.

the plastic cam cover on our d16a8 comes off easy - only 2 x 10mm nuts and then pull it up and off.
The actual cam-cover is a series of silver nuts around the outside and then you either hit it a few times with a rubber hammer or shimmy a flathead screwdriver under the edges to break the seal.

[EuroDude]

If you take off your old filter the only oil you will loose is what's in the filter. Oil Does not run out from anyplace else so you just need to top up 1/2 quart or so from the filter.

Ok thanks I'll do that then. Although I need to remove the drain plug anyway to replace the washer - but I guess I can do a very fast washer replacement without losing too much oil. Its gonna be messy though :p

[EuroDude]

the plastic cam cover on our d16a8 comes off easy - only 2 x 10mm nuts and then pull it up and off.
The actual cam-cover is a series of silver nuts around the outside and then you either hit it a few times with a rubber hammer or shimmy a flathead screwdriver under the edges to break the seal.

No worries I'll have a look this weekend. Although it doesnt look like you can pull it up since the Head Cover is directly above that bracket, so I guess it comes out sideways instead, or I need to remove the head cover first.


The problem is that I dont know what head cover seal-goo to use. Would I need to apply fresh sealer? I guess it depends on if it leaks afterwards...

[SPEEDCORE]

Ok thanks I'll do that then. Although I need to remove the drain plug anyway to replace the washer - but I guess I can do a very fast washer replacement without losing too much oil. Its gonna be messy though :p

Latex gloves have more uses than scaring men at prostate check time ;)

[EuroDude]

Latex gloves have more uses than scaring men at prostate check time ;)

lol yeah I used gloves, and yes it was messy especially cause I couldnt get the freakin bolt back in for like 20 seconds, losing alot of oil.


Anyway I got the 17mm tranny fill plug off using a breaker wrench and slamming my elbow into the chassis - so its all good.
btw Honda (Col Crawford) dont sell the 17mm washers so I left the original one on. Its only the filler bolt so it should be fine.

The car feels like its gained an extra 20hp now thanks to the new oils and filter :thumbsup:

I'm yet to tackle the CAM seal...


thx for the help guys.