B20b bottom end + B16 Vtec head [Archive]

RSA_Honda

28-02-2006, 04:50 PM

j-specAccord

28-02-2006, 05:28 PM

the compression is low because of the piston size and the stroke, if you do the B16 head swap then you should also buy higher comp pistons.
i am not too familiar with the comp ratio of the B20 but i am assuming it would stay the same ratio once the head is fitted since B series heads are very much the same.
i do not know alot about the B series engines, there are alot of ppl on here that do. hopefully you get point in the right direction.

RSA_Honda

28-02-2006, 05:34 PM

Thanks :-)

Yeah , i was thinking as well that i need to change the pistons, but want to make 100% sure before i go all out and spend a lot of cash on importing the stuff

LowEk

28-02-2006, 06:22 PM

ask tinkerbell as he has this conversion already. he knows what he is talking about too. :)

RSA_Honda

28-02-2006, 06:29 PM

Thanks LowEk, i have sent him a PM yesterday, just awaiting he's reply :)

BryanE

28-02-2006, 09:09 PM

Search it @ google.com dude and type it B20 vtec... or go to www.b20vtec.com (http://www.b20vtec.com)

SKREMN

28-02-2006, 09:40 PM

I have completec the conversion with my car
I destroked mine with a ITR crank and got high comp CP pistons driven by crower rods
I also got the block sleved but this is not a must do

BiGANG

28-02-2006, 11:34 PM

I have completec the conversion with my car
I destroked mine with a ITR crank and got high comp CP pistons driven by crower rods
I also got the block sleved but this is not a must do

wouldnt it have been easier to start with a b18c in the first place if you were always planning to destroke it? Just wondering why u did it like this.

Also where did you get ur sleeves done?

barefootbonzai

28-02-2006, 11:46 PM

when he says destoke he only means like buy a tiny bit like 0.05L or so cause of the type r crank. In order to complete you b20 swap you'll need a vtec conversion kit. Just search ebay, eagle make them.

spetz

01-03-2006, 01:06 AM

I heard the B20 crankshaft is not that strong and not good for high rpm

ewendc2r

01-03-2006, 08:29 AM

one site.

Hondatech.com if you can't find it here.

LowEk

01-03-2006, 12:43 PM

one site.

Hondatech.com if you can't find it here.

its www.honda-tech.com (http://www.honda-tech.com) not as above.

fly_vti

01-03-2006, 01:32 PM

yeah, you need to get high comp pistons new rods, and sleeve the block for protection if you can afford it. be aware you will need to upgrade your fuel lines, change the ecu + tune, and all the pumps. eg: oil, water + fuel.

ewendc2r

01-03-2006, 03:17 PM

sorry :) Thanks LowEK

Shraka

01-03-2006, 04:24 PM

Okay... I have a question: why not just drop the B18C in there? Why bother swapping heads? Sounds like a lot of messing around for not much gain.

ewendc2r

01-03-2006, 06:09 PM

Extra torque mainly, but I tend to agree with you. Most people that I have heard of go the next step for a 2.2l instead.

SKREMN

01-03-2006, 06:20 PM

I destroked it to gain the stronger crank
I loose about 2mm stroke outa it
the B20 has a bigger bore
i got it sleveed in the US by golden eagel

jdm16

02-03-2006, 04:34 PM

Go on HT and they'll have lots of B20/B16 aka LS/VTEC line kits. G/E, Endyn, Full-Race, etc the rest. The G/E kit looks the best as it has the gasket, lines, dowels everything. You can always buy a GSi/LS block and bore it to 84mm? That would be 2.0L also & possibly micropolish the crank. Unless you already have the B20...

B20s have had problems with sinking sleeves - so doing what SCRMN has done and sleeving it could be wise. Sleeving is quite expensive though. Maybe even a block guard - I know they dont sound good but at least they will attempt to prevent destroying the block when the sleeves crack.

dcdc

02-03-2006, 08:41 PM

RSA_Honda

02-03-2006, 10:50 PM

Thanks for all the info guys , will go read up :-)

Shraka

04-03-2006, 08:10 PM

Extra torque mainly, but I tend to agree with you. Most people that I have heard of go the next step for a 2.2l instead.
More torque? We're not talking about enough torque here to really be like, squabbling about an extra few ccs. Just up the power in other ways. MUCH cheaper. I mean, if you're a top end race builder, then I understand. But if you're building race engines you shouldn't need to ask questions here.

ginganggooly

05-03-2006, 08:52 PM

200cc is more than just a few extra cc. imo. ;)

ewendc2r

06-03-2006, 03:01 PM

10% increase in torque approx for a 1.8l - 2.0l ... That is respectable.

defect

06-03-2006, 03:49 PM

Yea and this is a 1.6L - 2.0L.
400cc

SKREMN

06-03-2006, 06:16 PM

B20B = 1973 cc
B18A = 1834 cc
only 139 extra cc for me
plus I am destroked taking away 2mm
so who knows what i'm on

Shraka

07-03-2006, 10:21 AM

No offense to those who have done it, but personaly I think it's a big waste of time. You could easily get extra power in other ways. If you really like torque, why are you dealing with such low torque engines as Honda engines anyway? Get a 2JZ-GTE, SR20DET, RB26DETT, 3S-GTE or something with more torque than you can poke a stick at. An extra 139ccs? Not worth it.

EDIT: Oh, unless you are a race builder with lots of money and have restrictions on displacement and various other mods, and have already pushed your B18C as far as it can go. Then it makes sense.

ewendc2r

07-03-2006, 11:17 AM

Forced Induction is always a possibility but .. A couple of things that I think are hard to measure are:

1) Useable power band & Throttle response.

A high rpm motor that has a powerband from say 5500rpm - 9500rpm makes for a very trackable motor (rather than a turbo motor for example, with a powerband from 4000rpm - 6500rpm).

But that is just my preference. I love the instant throttle response of a honda motor and the width of the powerband.

Point taken tho -- I agree it is a waste of money unless a serious inrease in displacement is sought, to which end you are going to lose your ability to rev high as a result.

marcus

07-03-2006, 11:43 AM

b20 engine is very fragile but give u xtra torque and if u bore it up to 2.2 it will give u lots of displacment...of coz there are many parts u gt to change 2.but a 2.2l four throttle b20 vtec gives u enough power to take an evo on a straight line

BLKCRX

07-03-2006, 11:56 AM

ewendc2r

07-03-2006, 06:20 PM

Needs stroking to go to 2.2l which reduces (generally and without going into detail) the maximum safe redline due to the piston travelling a greater distance (thus faster travel, more stress on rods etc etc).. I agree with others here. If you are going to spend that sort of money to build an all motor car, ditch the B series (sell it) and build a K20r or K20r/K24 -- Proven performance with minimal mods and maximum reliability. The last thing you want is to rebuild the sucker after 6-12mths.

ProECU

07-03-2006, 06:27 PM

I dont care what anyone says, i'd even go as far as 86mm if I was building a high HP, high performance engine.

ewendc2r

07-03-2006, 06:32 PM

.. without a budget.

ProECU

07-03-2006, 06:49 PM

like i said, I dont care what anyone says.

going 86mm is the same cost as going 85mm.
Still need sleeves, still need headowrk, cams etc

SKREMN

07-03-2006, 07:09 PM

going b20 or b18 has no differance in cost
if anything the b20 would be cheaper and easyer to find
I paid $200 for my b20 block
I went b20 because it was there and avalable not because I wanted more torque
it is an advantage for me i guess
I had the b18a but blew it to bits

a b18c has less its about 1797cc i think
that makes it 176cc more with the b20

ginganggooly

07-03-2006, 07:35 PM

i asked golden eagle about bore sizes a while back as i have golden eagle sleeves in my block- they told me that 86mm was fine for NA, 85mm for boosted applications. i'm running 85mm bores as i might want to boost it a bit later. if i was sure that i'd never want to do anything other than an NA build, i'd deffinately be running an 86mm bore.

marcus

07-03-2006, 07:46 PM

ginganggooly

07-03-2006, 07:55 PM

changing to a b20 block is cheaper and easier..as in comes from the same b series...but by juz puting a b20 only gives u torque. u have to change alot of stuff as well like pistons, cams and etc if u want power and torque. the b20 is a very fragile and nt as wild as the b18 xtra care has to be taken for high reving...

the only thing weak about the b20 is/are the sleeves, and if you keep it under 8500, have it tuned properly and don't run some crazy arse compression, the sleeves will be fine. allmtr and tinkerbell are classic examples of reliable b20's.

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 08:03 PM

if any of you B series boys can answer this it would be greatly appreciated..

a friend of mine has just paid for a shop to do an LS/VTEC swap into his EK yet when i looked at the engine the code said B18A, is this right? i asked him why does the code say B18 if its a B20 block? alot of other ppl have said its a B20 block also... im confused as ive seen frankenstien hondas before and the block read B20.. whats the g.o here?

marcus

07-03-2006, 08:07 PM

hmm....u can tell a difference between a b16 block and a b20...a b20 block if u look down below is pertruding out!!!

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 08:16 PM

not B16, B18... and arent all B series blocks the same its just the stroke, bore and pistons that are changed accordingly???

sivic

07-03-2006, 08:45 PM

although most b series blocks/heads are interchangeable (except the B20A) the blocks are not all the same. there are different block heights and some are weaker/stronger than others.
i think you or your mate are confused about what an LS/VTEC swap is. its not using a B20 block, its using a B18A block which came in the LS integras, thats why the block says B18A

marcus

07-03-2006, 08:47 PM

yup b20 block is bigger..if u look closely below u can see the difference...

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 08:54 PM

im not confused bout the LS/VTEC side of it, im just worried cos he keeps telling me its B20 and he is not one to lie, as do all his mates and it says B18 on the block. i know an ls/vtec swap is the american term for a b18/b16 frankenstien i was just wondering if some B20 blocks are coded B18??? its a silly question yeah but im trynna figure out if he has been jipped or not

marcus

07-03-2006, 08:58 PM

i dun think a b20 block will write b18 on it...a b18 block is wilder den a b16..u can try dyno it

SKREMN

07-03-2006, 10:22 PM

what ever is stamped on the block is what it is
what he has dont inside who knows might be 2000cc

SKREMN

07-03-2006, 10:24 PM

i dun think a b20 block will write b18 on it...a b18 block is wilder den a b16..u can try dyno it
how is the dyno going to help?

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 10:24 PM

no i just found out that he didnt get ripped, he bought it purposely from hong kong with B16 inscrbed on it to avoid mod plating

SKREMN

07-03-2006, 10:31 PM

so he has got an actually b20 block and got the numbers changed...
does it look original?

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 10:45 PM

no it is an original, when i think back the code area was shaved back, i didnt notice it as he did not mention on the nite i saw it that is was done for a reason

marcus

07-03-2006, 10:45 PM

hmm..if thats the case it cld be a b20...ppl from hk,malaysia,singapore etc..like to play b20 more den turbo. u will only know the truth after installation and after many high revs as the b20 block is very fragile

marcus

07-03-2006, 10:47 PM

btw hw much ur b20 cost??

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 10:51 PM

no he got it all done, sleeved, pistons, crank, B16B head... im yet to race it as it wasnt running too well when we last met

marcus

07-03-2006, 10:54 PM

hw much ur b20 costs?

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 10:55 PM

it aint mine, its ma friends... he has spent over 20gs all up on his EK

marcus

07-03-2006, 10:59 PM

wats 20gs????i m interested to get a b20 block if its at resonable price..from wat i heard from a fren in singapore a 5k b20 setup can give u over 250hp a 10k setup can give u 300over hp.the more u spend the more u get.its best fitted on a lightweight EG.
enough for u to wack a stock evo

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 11:05 PM

yeah his only pulled 160hp atw but it really needs a tune and something wasnt running right... they are rated at bout 200 to the tarmac so it is a very powerful 2 lt

Shraka

07-03-2006, 11:05 PM

Yeah, if I wanted a revvy 2.0, I'd take the K20, or the F20 and use that. Forget the B series.

Question is, why do you want the extra displacement?

j-specAccord

07-03-2006, 11:08 PM

to some ppl it seems a waste, but you gotta account for whats availavble also.
B20's can be sourced very cheap and it is an effective swap if done right, both power wise and track wise

sivic

07-03-2006, 11:38 PM

exactly. pre built B20's can be sourced out of asia for a reasonable price. built right they make impresive power.
extra displacement? power. and currently K20's are a bit out of most ppl's league.
F20's..... B or C? one is extremely rare and the other wont go into a civic....
fact is B series is still the most practical option for the masses as there is plenty of aftermarket support and workshop with experience in dealing with them.

marcus

08-03-2006, 12:05 AM

gosh k20??for k20 or F20 u gt to change alot of parts and alot of stuff...for dc2 ek or eg its more practical to get a b20 block for dc5 a k24 block

ginganggooly

08-03-2006, 10:44 AM

Yeah, if I wanted a revvy 2.0, I'd take the K20, or the F20 and use that. Forget the B series.

Question is, why do you want the extra displacement?

why would you not want extra displacement?
more cubes equals more torque and more power.
if the toss up is between a thoroughly worked 1800 and a thoroughly worked 2000cc motor for similar money, you'd be crazy not to go for the extra capacity. unless the rules in whatever category you're competing in stipulate nothing over 1800cc.
it is much cheaper to source, build and install a b20 than it is to do likewise with a k20. k20 is the way of the future, but unless you've got deep pockets, it's not really the way of the present :)

marcus

08-03-2006, 02:22 PM

for b series boys its must practical for b20 for k series boys its the k24!!!!

SKREMN

08-03-2006, 05:46 PM

hw much ur b20 costs?
my stock bare b20 block cost $200

marcus

08-03-2006, 05:48 PM

where u get it?

SKREMN

08-03-2006, 06:03 PM

Hontoys @ yennora
now called honda wreaker or sumthing like that

EGB16A

08-03-2006, 06:19 PM

FR33K

08-03-2006, 07:15 PM

Hontoys @ yennora
now called honda wreaker or sumthing like that

its actually at smithfield now :)

ATSEK4

08-03-2006, 07:29 PM

not B16, B18... and arent all B series blocks the same its just the stroke, bore and pistons that are changed accordingly???

as u said LS/VTEC = b16a head with B18A block. CRVTEC is B16A head with B20B block.

B18A block = B20B block with smaller bore. B20B 84mm, b18A 81mm.
same crank.
cheers.

SKREMN

08-03-2006, 10:20 PM

its actually at smithfield now :)
Yes and no
hontoys is moved yes
honda wreak is where hontoys used to be
same people same place same cars but diff name and diff ownership

marcus

09-03-2006, 09:02 AM

can i have the full addr??200 for a b20 is cheap

Shraka

09-03-2006, 11:24 AM

why would you not want extra displacement?
more cubes equals more torque and more power.
if the toss up is between a thoroughly worked 1800 and a thoroughly worked 2000cc motor for similar money, you'd be crazy not to go for the extra capacity. unless the rules in whatever category you're competing in stipulate nothing over 1800cc.
it is much cheaper to source, build and install a b20 than it is to do likewise with a k20. k20 is the way of the future, but unless you've got deep pockets, it's not really the way of the present :)
Easy, pushing more displacement out of the engine is a lot of messing around, when you could just go for a more agressive cam grind, and get much better results. Granted it would be more top end, but if I wanted a nice torquey engine, I'd get something turbocharged, or go an inline 6.

Pushing displacement just doesn't make much sense unless your engine is already pretty full on, and you can't get much more out of the top end, and just wanna smooth the power band a bit.

ginganggooly

09-03-2006, 12:13 PM

How is it messing around?
You take an oem crv block, and don't do anything to it...
the headwork for the 2.0l and 1.8l would be pretty much the same. the extra cc's are well worth it imo.

marcus

09-03-2006, 12:28 PM

a b20 nicely done up can give 280hp-na-non turbo.thats quite alot to handle

marcus

09-03-2006, 12:36 PM

can i have the exact address on the place where i can get a stock bare b20 ???thanks alot mate

V6Racker

09-03-2006, 12:37 PM

How is it messing around?
You take an oem crv block, and don't do anything to it...
the headwork for the 2.0l and 1.8l would be pretty much the same. the extra cc's are well worth it imo.

Agreed! thats d easiest n cheapest way to increase hp n torque..

V6Racker

09-03-2006, 12:43 PM

Marcus I think you’re a lil wrong with boring out a b20 block. The b20 use’s an 84mm bore size, the b18 block which is almost the same block use’s a 81mm bore size. Even with sleaving the block with a ductile sleeve the maximum I would ever take a B block is 85mm even then the cylinders walls are almost touching !! This extra 1mm will not give you a extra 200cc displacement !!

Regards James

A done up b20 will prob be using 86mm and a 95crankshaft instead of the stock 87.. anyway budget wise its still best to stick to b series

u dont have to change engine mountings.gear box etc..
what u need is jus the block

if u change to k series prob u have to take a half cut..

what kind of budget are we talking about

cheers

V6Racker

09-03-2006, 12:52 PM

Hi Guys

I have tried the search option , but unfortunately i didnt get the answers to the questions i have :(

From South Africa , so our resources are a bit limited when it comes to Honda experts , thus the question here ..

I have a b20b bottom end, to which i want to fit my b16 Vtec head. In theory i dont see a problem with this , but i have picked up that the B20b has a fairly low compression ratio.

Does anyone know the compression ratio that the engine will be after the B16 Vtec head is fitted to the B20b ?

Also, if the ratio is a bit low for decent compression , what ratio can one run on the above setup - reliably ?

Thanks a million in advance for the help

:thumbsup:

hi..if u were to use back the b20b stock pistons its not advisable at all because crv was never meant to be high reving and is non vtec...its best to change the stock pistons to minimum 85mm forged pistons, lighten d crankshaft. compression ratio will depend on how ur head is done up.. but stock b20 setup with b16 head will yield u much more torque for low end driving..u wil be amazed at the different..
i would say its d most bang for bucks

remember there's no replacement for displacement...
cheers

SKREMN

09-03-2006, 06:34 PM

can i have the exact address on the place where i can get a stock bare b20 ???thanks alot mate
dont know the address
its behind railway pde at yennora near the train station

that was a while ago and i know the guy as well but see how you go
just try all/any wreaker and see what they got to offer

todaek9

11-03-2006, 01:35 AM

Hmm...after reading all those comments...now i have one..MOST knows NOTHING about B20...HAHAHAHA...
i don't mean to offend any one, but it seems like Most has any no experience on B20, except reading from some Article and adding on their own comment...

For any Engine RELIABILITY issue, all i can say is that, No MATTER you throw in 100k in to the car, and you EXPECT the car to be STRONG...You are still DREAMING...NO highly MOD's CAR are EVER RELIABLE...infact, Stock ENGINE will last 100x longer than those Mod's ones...

Mods car are BUILD to RACE, and requires high cost maintainance such as Rebuilds and so on...

As for Reliability issue for B20, It is very reliable IF you know what you are doing...and yea, rev limit for it is around 8600rpm to 9000rpm...and if you keep within that range, and don't always have a heavy foot, service on time (every 4000km - 5000km), you surely won't have any prob...

i also saw someone saying by using 10k can build a 300hp B20...and i have a good laugh ooutta it...

Pro ecu is right about one thing, if you Mods already, 85mm, 86mm, same thing, same price..

ALLMTR

11-03-2006, 01:47 PM

i don't mean to offend any one, but it seems like NO ONE has any experience on B20, except reading from some Article and adding on their own comment...

Your not offending anyone...your wrong

ewendc2r

11-03-2006, 02:13 PM

Aren't you contradicting yourself TodaEK9? You say any modified engine is not reliable, then go on to say the B20 is very reliable if rev limit is set between 8k-9k rpm. Which one is it?

No B20B is reliable at 9000rpm. End of story. Unless you call 15,000kms reliable.

SKREMN

11-03-2006, 09:20 PM

any engine that revs past 9000rpm will have a shorter life then any stock motor
for the reliability is why I sleeved my block and using a ITR crank

todaek9

12-03-2006, 02:03 AM

Dude, Read properly of what i've comment...

One more thing, did i mention about modifying anything or doing any work to the head and block at all? so did i make it sound So Modified?...just a b16 head and a b20 block, Absolutely STD...rev 8600-9000rpm...no heavy foot...depending on how driver drives...end of story...hmm...i think those 15k km you're talking about, is "Trash the engine like no tomorrow with low maintainance..."..if you wanna change smth, and expect it to be cheap to maintain that, then better not do anything to your car, just keep it std...

and YES..ALL MODS ENGINE IS NOT RELIABLE I REPEAT again...
If you still don't understand why i said that again, Simple, you never think of WEAR and TEAR...

May be Mods means to you is that changing Block...but with no Internal Changes, that is not call a Mod..just a Swap...to me...may be you have diff meaning for Mods...

Opps ALLMTR, Type wrongly...i meant to type Most, not all...my bad...

Aren't you contradicting yourself TodaEK9? You say any modified engine is not reliable, then go on to say the B20 is very reliable if rev limit is set between 8k-9k rpm. Which one is it?

No B20B is reliable at 9000rpm. End of story. Unless you call 15,000kms reliable.

tinkerbell

14-03-2006, 04:23 PM

ROTFLMAO...

i am glad i am on my honeymoon, you guys really crack me up...

my "reliable" rev limit on a stock B20VTEC would be ~8200rpm (as the B20's piston speed is slightly less than the B18CR's piston speed is at 8600rpm)

still, essentials for this would include ARP rod bolts and ARP head studs...

RSA Honda - i will answer your PM in more detail once back from MY...

BTW the first B20VTEC i built has over 15'000km on it, and it is now driven by a lead-foot thrash-bag with no respect for the so-called fragile nature of the B20 bottom end...

the second B20VTEC i built has only 6000km and is coping quite nicely with my tempered abuse...

aaronng

14-03-2006, 06:23 PM

and YES..ALL MODS ENGINE IS NOT RELIABLE I REPEAT again...
If you still don't understand why i said that again, Simple, you never think of WEAR and TEAR...

May be Mods means to you is that changing Block...but with no Internal Changes, that is not call a Mod..just a Swap...to me...may be you have diff meaning for Mods...

If you take 2 stock motors, change the internals of one to lightened and balanced pistons, rods and crank as well as sleeve it, then the modded one is more reliable than the stock motor.

You should read up what actually makes engines wear out faster than stock engines. Cams which push the peak torque higher up the RPM range to make more power result in more stress on the internals at high RPM. That's where you get more wear. Not because an engine is "modded".

j-specAccord

14-03-2006, 07:05 PM

ROTFLMAO...

i am glad i am on my honeymoon, you guys really crack me up...

hahaha on the net while you on your honeymoon??? lol some romantic you are...

todaek9

15-03-2006, 10:06 PM

Let me give you a bit of reading before you ask me to read...
Lets break up by Nick Name for you.

TODA
EK 9

got it?

If you take 2 stock motors, change the internals of one to lightened and balanced pistons, rods and crank as well as sleeve it, then the modded one is more reliable than the stock motor.

You should read up what actually makes engines wear out faster than stock engines. Cams which push the peak torque higher up the RPM range to make more power result in more stress on the internals at high RPM. That's where you get more wear. Not because an engine is "modded".

dsp26

02-05-2006, 09:42 AM

i dont wanna be petty but um...

what if i changed pistons to factory spec forged items, metal headgasket to factory spec, valve springs + titanium retainers and ARP bolts

thats still pretty much factory spec and would last a shit load longer than stock. everyone has good points but their all flawed.

SKREMN

03-05-2006, 09:08 PM

a modified engine is most likely to be driven alot harder then a stock one also

dsp26

03-05-2006, 09:37 PM

Hi Guys

I have tried the search option , but unfortunately i didnt get the answers to the questions i have :(

From South Africa , so our resources are a bit limited when it comes to Honda experts , thus the question here ..

I have a b20b bottom end, to which i want to fit my b16 Vtec head. In theory i dont see a problem with this , but i have picked up that the B20b has a fairly low compression ratio.

Does anyone know the compression ratio that the engine will be after the B16 Vtec head is fitted to the B20b ?

Also, if the ratio is a bit low for decent compression , what ratio can one run on the above setup - reliably ?

Thanks a million in advance for the help

:thumbsup:

i actually just read all of this thread and i can't believe no-one has still answered this.
i just spent the last 30mins searching the net for CC volumes to calculate eventuating CR and came across something better.

Anyways the answer is 9.095499790225624:1

Anyways, for those actually wondering how i came across it:
http://www.dh-racing.com/dynos.html#calc

i posted this link in the tech section!!!!

Setanta

16-05-2006, 09:59 PM

Hmm...after reading all those comments...now i have one..MOST knows NOTHING about B20...HAHAHAHA...
i don't mean to offend any one, but it seems like Most has any no experience on B20, except reading from some Article and adding on their own comment...

Strangely enough, Chuck's CRVTEC Civic seemed pretty damn reliable to me in it's 12 sec drag strip incarnation and Tinkerbell's CRVTEC 'teg is still going strong and reliably. How long's it been with that setup Tink? Has to be 4-5 years since I met you - longer for Chuck.

Change feet Todaek9 :D

VTi_b0i

16-05-2006, 10:02 PM

how would u insure this motor? like how u have to tell the rta and such?

tinkerbell

16-05-2006, 10:35 PM

Strangely enough, Chuck's CRVTEC Civic seemed pretty damn reliable to me in it's 12 sec drag strip incarnation and Tinkerbell's CRVTEC 'teg is still going strong and reliably. How long's it been with that setup Tink? Has to be 4-5 years since I met you - longer for Chuck.

Change feet Todaek9 :D

LOL! welcome back man!

nah, i sold the first one i built and it is still going strong,

the second one i built after blowing my DC2 B18C is still going fine after around 10,000km...

you need to goto a special RTA place to get the records changed, like one that can do blue-slips...

it is about $30 fee and you will need to be able to prove that the new engine meets all the ADR requirements, if they ask you ...

DynoDave

16-05-2006, 10:53 PM

If I was a mod I would delete 95% of the posts in here because they are bullshit, and I have never read such misinformed misguided internet bullshit.Guys like Tinkerbell and ALLMTR did these setups years ago and one of them still to this day runs PERFECT the other one is in a million pieces waiting to be put back together.
Regards Dyno Dave

BlitZ

16-05-2006, 10:54 PM

from my understanding.. b20's fragile state is casued mainly by increase in compression..
if you dont increase the compression(or simply a little) of a crvtec, it would still maintain good realiability..

Sleeve the sucker if you plan to run high comp with forges and Z spec cams..

and advised by tinkerbell change your head and rod bolts as they are the weakness link then you conversion should be fine and dandy for a very long long time

JESPER

15-06-2006, 08:49 PM

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=19

Among other info on this site. Seems to be some good tech articles on all sorts of things, plus, what the guys n gals are posting in the forums. Good luck and happy hunting...
on a side note, I sent a head gasket for an SR20det to South Africa last week...odd how they can get the cars but not the parts :S