forced induction for b16?

[jrakasp]

i want to modify my car
tossing up between turbo or na
up and downs?
and why do honda people prefer na?
thanks

[EGB16A]

whats your budget?
what is the car used for?

[jrakasp]

my budjet is about 5k to max 10ks
im planing to use the car for track and everyday driving
cheers..
any comments will be appreciated

[Dylanamus]

Either option would work, man. With that kind of budget, it comes down to your own personal preferences.

You could make an excellent N/A build to be proud of. If you're competing in the 1600cc class, even outpowering the competition won't necessarily get you the winning times. An N/A build would give you a stronger, race-engineered engine with the same daily driveability it always had, but extended longlivity and reliability, particularly when driven the way it ought to be - hard.

There's no reason a turbocharged b16 couldn't make a daily driver though. With boost control, you can lower the PSI to 2 or 4 or whatever when you're cruising and/or try to sit under the point where the turbo kicks in (to save fuel). You could also get an ECU (or chip if need be) to auto control your traction on take off (to an extent).

Beyond the bolt ons...

You could get a complete turbo kit with all the parts you need to make the conversion to forced induction for 4-5k (or less if you source parts manually instead of buying a kit) and with the cash left over, get an LSD and some good tyres, HD clutch and coilovers with damper adjustability to soften up for your daily driving. Without strengthening the internals you would be limited to the amount of boost you could run safely, but if you used a low boost, low HP kit (ie 75hp-100hp max gain) then it would be fine and you would still be ahead of the N/A in terms of cash : power.

For N/A and remaining 1600cc you could get an aftermarket ECU and take advantage of the VTEC and get stage B or C VTEC camshafts (with adjustable cam gears, high rpm springs, titanium retainers and possibly better valves) for the same as the turbo including a professional tune. Couple that with some aftermarket or CTR pistons/rings and rods/arms etc and you have a strong, reliable engine capable of 8,500rpm or maybe more. At those revs, your bolt ons will shine through too. Add the other mods from above and voilá. This would probably cost a bit more in the end, but it would be my preference for the track.

[shmivic]

boosted can be very reliable but can still have a few small annoying issues.
its really a trade between power/reliabilty.
no good having 250fwhp if itl only make it once or twice

[jrakasp]

shmivic ur car is pretty cool man!
if you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost and what kind of power output u get at the wheels?

[shmivic]

shmivic ur car is pretty cool man!
if you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost and what kind of power output u get at the wheels?

um yeh ok.... didnt cost much all the mechanical and electrical work i did myself, but still power isnt great yet the ecu is holding things back.

[spardikis]

have a look on the australian club rsx forum.. a guy there did a write up on b16a turbo that he did

[Weq]

three is a turbo DIY in this forum too. have a looksi.

[jrakasp]

thanks pplz
ive found many treads
cheers