The curse of the AsianDM motor. B16a4

[KB]

engine = ADM b16a4
wiring = ADM b16a4 EK4 harness
ecu = ADM B16a4 ECU

All from halfcut.

Symtoms as follows.....


Reset ECU
Car runs perfect except no VTEC. (No codes)
Jump Service connector
VTEC works but cuts in and out from 5800 to redline. (Now im throwing 20 and 23, knock and ELD)
Disconnect Service Connector
Still throwing codes 20,23. VTEC works great but after about 30mins of driving the car starts to randomly begin to misfire, bogging down, stuttering under WOT at low rpms. After more time has passed begins to stutter more but in all rpms. After even more time. Car is only barley drivable with stuttering, missfiring and bogging down if anymore than 10% throttle is given.


FROM MY CONCLUSIONS I HAVE FOUND...
- VTEC only works if the MIL is on(throwing a code)
- Once VTEC starts working over time performence starts to go.
- Misfiring, stuttering sounds like ignition but what would cause the igniton to fail over time? ie one minute the car is driving well enoguh to chop a B16a2 with I/H/E, then 20mins later cant use hardley any throttle or it will bog down(simular to if you have your ignition timing fully advanced)
-Almost feels like pre-igniton.

ANY IDEAS? :D



PS can anyone do custom chips in Perth? Need an Open Loop only chip with ELD and KNOCK Disabled.

[Weq]

new vtec solenpoid and pressure switch would be my best guess. ive got one if u need it.

[ECU-MAN]

check your oil presure, ( save your self alot of time )

[VT3C]

what about Dizzy ? it is like missfiring at low-load cruising and under throttle.

seems to me like detonation but cannot confirm.

KB explain your modifications to the Distributor.. is using D-series coil etc.

I doubt vtec solenoid needs replacing Weq.. maybe the Grounds for the PGMFI and VTEC solenoid are dodgy.. but I still think it's dizzy / points related.

KB have you checked your OIL level yet ? though didnt seem to be blowwing any smoooke out exhaust.. hrm..

[Weq]

a dizzy will not throw a ufking 22 & 23. Its either ur ecu/wireing or ur vtec solenoid is stueed. (im assuming good pressure ecu-man). and 'tricking' ur car to run vtec is a bad bad thing. if it is truely bad oil pressure u can say goodbuy to ur bearings in no time.

[KB]

weq can i use the solenoid off my D16y8?

[Thresher]

just got new code :(

21 VTEC spool solenoid valve

is that the solenoid itself needs replacing?

[Thresher]

^^^ This Is Kb Using Threshor Account

[VT3C]

a dizzy will not throw a ufking 22 & 23. Its either ur ecu/wireing or ur vtec solenoid is stueed. (im assuming good pressure ecu-man). and 'tricking' ur car to run vtec is a bad bad thing. if it is truely bad oil pressure u can say goodbuy to ur bearings in no time.


I didnt say the dizzy would trow a FKUCKING code 22 + 23 so calm the FKUCK down !!!

KB hasnt mentioned his hybrid dizzy setup and it may be relevant - there's more problems driving the car a lot worse than no vtec !!

'sake Weq... :thumbdwn:

[Weq]

KB, no. the y8 solenoid is unique to the y8, for some dumb reason. the y1 solenoid is compatible with any vtec head, except of course the y8.

vtec: sorry im getting my wires confused. it sounded like u were blaming the codes on the dizzy. no way thought would happens.

As for the coil differences, im pretty sure the internals swap wont hurt anything. but to elimate it, try another dizzy if u have access.

[KB]

how can one test the solenoid?

[ECU-MAN]

measure its resistance

from memory it should be with in 14 to 17ohm

remove the spool housing, apply compressed air to the solenoid, apply 12v to the solenoid, you should see the valve move and the air bleed through.

[HyperZ]

hey KB

have u checked the vtec pressure switch? just do a quick continuity test on it make sure its working... if thats okay check the wiring for it between the terminal to ground with the ignition at the "on" position...

if thats all ok try ECU-MAN's suggestion... i think resistance shld be around 14-30?? dont have a service manual here :( ...

[HyperZ]

Also did a quick google, have a look here, it may help...

http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38905

[HyperZ]

In depth procedure courtesy http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=32480

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Disconnect the electrical connector from the pressure switch. Connect an ohmmeter between the terminals of the switch. If there is no continuity, then replace the switch.

Connect a voltmeter between the body ground and the blue/black wire terminal (should be the same color in all vtec applications) in the harness side of the connector. Turn the ignition key to ON, but not with the engine running. there should be about 12volts reading. If there isnt, look for a break in the blue/black wire that is between the connector and its terminal at the PCM.

When you get the correct voltage at the blue/black terminal in the connector, connect the voltmeter between both the blue/black and black of the terminals in the harness side of the connector. with the kay on there should be a 12volt reading. if there isnt, check for breaks or bad connections between the body ground and the connector.

with the ignition off and disconnecting the single pin connector from the vtec solenoid, connect an ohmmeter to between the body ground and the pin in the solenoid. The ohmmeter should read 14-30 ohms. If it doesnt, replace it.

theres a bolt on the solenoid (its a 10mm or 12mm, i forgot), remove it and then attach a mechanicle oil pressure gauge with the adaptor. Warm up the engine and let it run at 1000, 3000, and then 5000. dont forget to write dwn the oil pressure reading at each speed and dont let it run for more than a minute is a rule of thumb. The oil pressure should be less than 7 psi. if its not, then check out the vtec solenoid.

to check out the vtec solenoid, connect a piece of wire from the batterys positive terminal to the terminal of the vtec solenoid. run the engine at 5000 rpms for no more than a minute. the oil pressure reading should read 56 psi or more. if it doesnt read at that pressure, then remove the solenoid valve assembly from the cylinder head then check out the vtec solenoid valve filter. Check the filter o-ring for any clogs. Clean it out and replace with a brand new o-ring. change out the filter and engine oil if it was clogged. this should keep it from clogging again. Also, unbolt the solenoid from the solenoid valve assembly and give a push on the solenoid plunger and check it for any free movement. Reinstall the solenoid with a new o-ring.

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[HyperZ]

just out of interest who did the swap?

[bennjamin]

just out of interest who did the swap?

its irrelevant.

There is a problem KB needs solving , whether its his own issue or anothers.

So reply only if u can help out !

[HyperZ]

its irrelevant.

There is a problem KB needs solving , whether its his own issue or anothers.

So reply only if u can help out !

erm.. okay then...

[KB]

Thankyou hyper ill have a look into that tonight. Im gonna try B20 brians ECU tonight and see if that helps. :)

[HyperZ]

Isnt Brien using a PFC?

[chingaling]

might be fuel cap problem.. too much pressure going into the tank.. try not to put the fuel cap on too tight..

[tinkerbell]

you kneed knock sensor or VTEC is not *supposed to engage*

[DjRob]

Try checking ur map sensor. One of my wires broke off and Vtec wouldnt kick in. it would kick in and out only when the wires touched.