Need help, d16 rebuild, or b16 conversion

[chef_32]

Hello people.

I have a dillema. I've searched for the answer but i can't seem to find it.

Here's the situation:

I got an 88 crx si with d16a8. The engine is blowing smoke. I'm getting good comp (about 170-175 on all 4) but there is oil sitting on some of my pistons, and its blowing smoke. I'm under the impression that its stem seals, but i still worry about rings. The smoke is tolerable, but it will get worse, and i don't like having to top up oil every couple of hundred k's.

Here's the problem:

I could either save for a b16a conversion (front cut, mounts, etc.) which i'd do myself so i hope for it to be around $4000 or less. This leaves me with 30 more hp, and an unknown engine. Obviously i have more aftermarket availability, but will i use it. The car is more or less for daily use, with some aggressive off track driving on occasion. I have a feeling this way will be far more painful

Or, i could build up a d16a with forged rods/pistions (carrillo or Eagle/ JE or arias), mild porting (yet to source reputable builder), higher comp (head shave or gasket), cams (mild lift and duration as lond as valvetrain holds), gears (adjust.), seals, etc. This i reckon i could get done for around the $3000 or less mark.

Keep in mind, other things i'm planning to do to the car are simply intake, exhaust, and possibly managment. No turbo, or anything spastic. i plan to focus more on suspension and brakes, than power.

My questions:

Which one would you do, considering the car cost about $4g?
What kinda comp can i run in a d16a?
How can i get the d16 to rev as high as the b16?
How much power could i get out of the d16a?
Should i be concerned about the d16 block strength?
Any component suggestion with reasoning for the d16a?

I'm very conflicted about this, so any held would be appreciated.

cheers

chef

[Slow96GSR]

B series has more parts out there right now. But a D series would be fun to build too. I guess it's up to you. If you get the B16/B18 you can then get an Eagle/JE rotating assembly, Crower valve train and be done. Then you can do other things like a port and polish and change the bore of the block to get you to whatever specs you want. Changing the compression ratio with the gasket is ok but why not just do it with the pistons? Running the same size gasket as stock but a better made one will be good enough. The more there, the more that can go wrong.

Don't forget things like the clutch and flywheel, timing belt, pulleys, cam gears, intake system and exhaust. Fuel system, you would only really need a pressure regulator and injectors to match for a N/A application, F.I. will need more. $4k AUD isn't a lot. It’s about $2,900 USD. You can count on the rotating assembly being half your budget, that’s crank, rods, pistons, clutch, flywheel, and under drive pulley. The valve train will be the rest if you do cams, gears, springs, retainers, valves, and a port and polish. The PnP might put you over the budget.

If I were you, I would first save more if you want to build a motor. For 4k AUD I would just rebuild the motor you have. But just a basic rebuild, piston rings, valve train remanufactured with new seals, and the seats worked over. New gaskets and seals all around, timing belt, water and oil pumps.

Then after you save up more money I would find a B16/B18 for about 1k. Doesn’t have to be perfect because you are going to rebuild it. Get new rods, pistons, flywheel, and a clutch. Should be about 1200USD if you buy retail, Ebay a little less. The valve train I would keep/get GSR cams, adjustable gears, valves, springs and retainers. Skip the PnP for now. Should put you at about 800-1000USD depending on who you buy from. So there’s about 3-4k USD. You also need the electronics so finding a full swap would be great.

Here I was looking at Ebay in Australia and found these:

Front clip (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Honda-Twin-cam-VTEC-B16A-half-cut_W0QQitemZ4622413600QQcategoryZ102337QQrdZ1Qqcm dZViewItem)

Motor (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HONDA-B16A-Vtec-Engine-less-inlet-exhaust-manifold_W0QQitemZ4622150726QQcategoryZ32624QQssPa geNameZWD4VQQrdZ1QqcmdZViewItem)

Here’s a bunch in the U.S.

Link! (http://motors.search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&catref=C6&mppfqy=civic&fccl=1&frpp=50&from=R10&fcl=3&satitle=civic&sacat=33615%26catref%3DC6&bs=Search&fsop=3%26fsoo%3D2&coaction=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search&fmmk=&fmmd=&fylo=&fyhi=&mppfQy=gsr&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=80962&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=)

Good luck and let me know if you need anything from the U.S. I'm pretty good at finding things.

[chef_32]

yeah, you're right about the comp with the pistons.

I'm pretty good at finding things over here aswell, but the problem is, i'd rather spend on the D16a8 if i could get the same power, torque and revs out of it, as with a b16a. But if thats not possible, reliable, or too expensive, i'd go with a b16 conversion.

It would be a fair way down the track if at all, before i'd rebuild the b16a by choice. i couldn't warrant spending such copious amounts on a daily driver. but that leaves me with the problem of having an engine that could have problems again.....

What i really want to know is, will a forged, rebuild d16a, match a b16a??

[Slow96GSR]

Match in what respects? Hp, TQ, RPM? Displacement? Cost?

[[[d a n n y]]]

chef 32 are u on SAU as well?
the username seems to be familiar
check out on the market section there is a cable clutch b16a going for 1K
i suggest u grab that.
it'll fit straight into your car mate

[chef_32]

yeah thats me off SAU.

I pm'ed him about sending it, but he hasn't got back to me. found some one trading post aswell, but interstate. I'm a bit reluctant to buy something that i haven' checked myself.

[[[d a n n y]]]

lol what happened to the sky?

i sold mine recently...
i sugges u try tha 1K halfcut mate

looks pretty good..

[chef_32]

32 got stacked, stripped, and sold. got some bits left still. But i always wanted a crx, and i found one cheap so i picked it up for a daily. some day, i'll go back to r32...

Yeah, would be keen on the halfcut

[Weq]

checkout the recent thread which compared DOHC to SOHC. some good info inthere on what to execpt when building a D. it is going to be cheaper, but NA, B-series is alot easier to pull the 'power' out of. I guess u have to do the equation.. Personally i wouldnt build a forged NA D, id just minime a y7 and z6 or something and get some good compression.

But on the other hand, a turbod is very cheap and will get u alot more power then NA b-series.

[blabla]

d16y8 is good to turbo and some decent power. but the b16a is good i changed from a d16y8 to b16a2 having fun great to drive power when needed good on fuel i get 500km out of a tank. To be honest drive a worked d16y if u can find one and then drive a crx with a b16a in it and then decide