Worn Rings

[shebangs]

Hi All,

I think my rings are worn. On my 5K oil changes, I'm missing a bit of oil, and more importantly, I have oil in 3 out of my 4 sparks. I don't know if I'm blowing smoke due because I'm never not in the car.

I know a bit about cars/engines and am currently researching my turbo conversion I have planned for later this year. Anyways, I just want to know, with my engine about to be stripped to fix my rings, what else could I possibly do or should I do to help re-infornce the engine for a reliable turbo conversion?

I know it comes back down to money. At the moment shes semi-stock (except I/H/E) I know I could get her bored to 2000cc, new pistons/rods/valves, higher compression, ECU but that's much more than I can afford. BUT bang for buck, considering worn rings are a semi-big job, in regards to labour (I wont be doing it) what else should I look at? Timing Belt?

Thanks,
Matt

[saxman]

if you're planning on turboing, I'd try to at least swap pistons/rods while you're in there.

You'll need an ecu for turbo anyway... I wouldn't worry about boring out, higher comp, head work, etc

[shebangs]

I know I need an ECU, but I didn't want to get it until it was time for the actual turbo. I honestly can't afford to get the ECU now, specially not at the same time as this rebuild.

Basically, my problem is, I'm currently researching for my turbo conversion later this year, but now I find out I need my bottom end rebuilt (worn gaskets).

Sooo....

My question is. End result for my turbo project is a reliable (hence the point of this thread, if I didnt want it reliable I would just get it rebuilt to stock, bolt on the turbo and have fun for a month): high compression, low boost, reliable, streetable and 200kw+ on the floor.

>> So with the above ... how should I rebuild my bottom end? I won't get it bored, but I am contemplating getting the head port and polished. What about conrods? Valve Springs? Rings? Forged Pistons? etc I know only a little, and don't have the knowledge when it comes to forced induction, compression ratios and the specific (fun) stuff.

I'm still learning the theory and have zero experience, so if any of the above is incorrect please let me know.

Thanks,
Matt

[saxman]

there's no reason that you can't have a perfectly reliable turbo on stock internals... the stock internals simply limit the power level you can achieve that at.

If you're going to rebuild, I would change out the rods and pistons. I would bore the cylinders slightly... just enough to be sure the cylinders are perfectly round, not to increase displacement. Also, I'd add some head studs in replacement of the stock head bolts. Other than that, just make sure the gaskets and such are good.

[Weq]

is the oil on the sparkplug tips or shafts?

[shebangs]

Shafts...

[shebangs]

Okay, the more research I do, the more question I get. :(

If I can ask a specific question.

For a bottom end rebuild, with a target forced induction project of high compression (say...11:1 or 12.5:1) and only running 6-8psi. What pistons/rings/conrods should I look at? The work on the top end won't be as exotic, probably just a port and polish, maybe head gasket and slightly stronger cams that are designed for boost.

Thanks,
Matt

[saxman]

I wouldn't recommend running that high of compression under boost... I certainly wouldn't go over 11:1

[EGB16A]

if your rebuilding the bottom end, change the rods and pistons to items suitable for turbo applications. I agree with saxman on the compression subject. what engine is it BTW?

[shebangs]

Thats kinda what Im still investigaton :)

11.0:1 sounds good, I just didnt want to run anything under 9.0:1

[saxman]

11:1(assuming you have a very good tuner), would make I think a very nice comp ratio for a high comp, low boost set up

[shebangs]

if your rebuilding the bottom end, change the rods and pistons to items suitable for turbo applications. I agree with saxman on the compression subject. what engine is it BTW?

b18c2

What are some recommendation options for turbo specific rods and pistons (which I assume also include rings aswell)?

I'm currently investigation TODA Racing's Piston Kit...

[Weq]

if the oil is on the plugs shafts, ur problem is valve cover gasket or the sparkplug cylinder seals. both cheap fix's.

[EGB16A]

b18c2

What are some recommendation options for turbo specific rods and pistons (which I assume also include rings aswell)?

I'm currently investigation TODA Racing's Piston Kit...

thats open for debate....

i've never looked into the toda range of pistons for a turbo aplication, i know the high comp. pistons they have are very good.

some people will say arias, other will say CP. I've heard good things about os giken too

rods are another debatable topic, but a bang for your buck option is eagle rods. Alot of people say they are crap, but you get what you pay for. Crower rods are supposed to be very good.

BTW most people on this forum will advise you to get an oversized piston, ie. 81.5mm

[saxman]

also, be sure you're getting a forged piston for forced induction.. a forged high comp piston for n/a use is going to be different as far as shape, material, etc

[yourfather]

b18c2

What are some recommendation options for turbo specific rods and pistons (which I assume also include rings aswell)?

I'm currently investigation TODA Racing's Piston Kit...


I remember TODA AU saying that the Racing piston kit is for N/A high compression applications and not for forced induction.

[shebangs]

also, be sure you're getting a forged piston for forced induction.. a forged high comp piston for n/a use is going to be different as far as shape, material, etc

Well, I've kinda hit a road block. I was hoping to strengthan the internals, but keep it NA, and keep it running off stock ECU until I a) researched my turbo conversion more b) saved up.

If I went with Turbo specific bottom end, I guess, at the very least, I'd need a chip to keep the car running if the turbo hasnt been bolted on yet?

Matt

[Weq]

not really
but u dont want to run in a new engine on a shitty tune.

[shebangs]

What if I stayed with my OEM 10:1 CR, but ensured the replacement parts in the rebuild were much stronger? Will I be able to keep run her in on stock ECU and stock top end?

[saxman]

What if I stayed with my OEM 10:1 CR, but ensured the replacement parts in the rebuild were much stronger? Will I be able to keep run her in on stock ECU and stock top end?
yes... it would behave just like stock