what ecu can work on euro ?

[ALN]

hi guys

what ecu do you guys think will work on euro?. I'm planning to do ecu tuning immediately but I've been asking around and it's hard to find ecu run drive by wire. I know motec M800 can work but it just not worth with the money which is about over 5k.

[yfin]

I was about to ask what mods you have then saw your car specs :eek: I T

Think you need to post up pics of everything before we answer your question about ECUs - ;)

Have you ruled out the Hondata reflash? I would have thought that would be the most cost effective option.

Engine:
Comptech airbox
Comptech Header
Fujitsubo cat back system
Metal Cat
64mm Throttle body
T.M. WORKS IGnition system
HKS Iridium spark plug
APEXi VAFC2
Hondata Manifold Gasket
Mugen thermostat & fan switch
Mugen radiator cap
Mugen Oil cap

Drivetrain:
Comptech Short shift
Comptech lightweight flywheel
Exedy Sport clucth

Exterior:
Mugen Full BODY KIT
HID 8000k

Interior:
Retrim In BMW grey leather
Roof in black

Audio:
Pioneer DEH-9650
6" Focal Front speaker
Precision Power PCX-5800
12" JL Audio W6V2 Subwoofer
Mass Engineering 1.5 F

Footwork and suspension
Dronell forged 1/15
19x8.5 front 19x9.5 rear
toyo proxes front
pirelli pzero rear
Tein SS coilover
Feel's Front strut bar
Project Mu brake pads

[ALN]

yeah rite. :D I'll give the pictures in your email.

I think the result is good from hondata reflash yeah but James only configure it with hondatech exhaust or standard reflash so yeah it seems I have to look other alternative.
I have discussed few workshops and they said only motec M800 and M400 or M600 but have to buy the upgrade to run drive by wire which cost more so overall motec gonna cost you between 3.5k-5k before tuned. I know the result with Motec will be very good yeah but it just not worth the money for N/A. so yeah what other ecu you guys suggest ? :)


I was about to ask what mods you have then saw your car specs :eek: I T

Think you need to post up pics of everything before we answer your question about ECUs - ;)

Have you ruled out the Hondata reflash? I would have thought that would be the most cost effective option.

Engine:
Comptech airbox
Comptech Header
Fujitsubo cat back system
Metal Cat
64mm Throttle body
T.M. WORKS IGnition system
HKS Iridium spark plug
APEXi VAFC2
Hondata Manifold Gasket
Mugen thermostat & fan switch
Mugen radiator cap
Mugen Oil cap

Drivetrain:
Comptech Short shift
Comptech lightweight flywheel
Exedy Sport clucth

Exterior:
Mugen Full BODY KIT
HID 8000k

Interior:
Retrim In BMW grey leather
Roof in black

Audio:
Pioneer DEH-9650
6" Focal Front speaker
Precision Power PCX-5800
12" JL Audio W6V2 Subwoofer
Mass Engineering 1.5 F

Footwork and suspension
Dronell forged 1/15
19x8.5 front 19x9.5 rear
toyo proxes front
pirelli pzero rear
Tein SS coilover
Feel's Front strut bar
Project Mu brake pads

[yfin]

yeah rite. :D I'll give the pictures in your email.

I think the result is good from hondata reflash yeah but James only configure it with hondatech exhaust or standard reflash so yeah it seems I have to look other alternative.
I have discussed few workshops and they said only motec M800 and M400 or M600 but have to buy the upgrade to run drive by wire which cost more so overall motec gonna cost you between 3.5k-5k before tuned. I know the result with Motec will be very good yeah but it just not worth the money for N/A. so yeah what other ecu you guys suggest ? :)

I would speak to James before you rule Hondata out. If you are prepared to pay the $$$ you might even be able to convince James to do a reflash just for your mods - I don't know. Money talks.

I know Noel on TSX Club is running a Mines N1 VX-ROM

[Peekay34]

You also have to remember how much testing would we have to have done to do every possible combination of exhaust and intake on the market to be able to get the right mixtures correct...as you understand this would not be possible we would be testing for ever. Even Hondata in the US has not even done this they have just one flash version. The stand ECU reflash should be fine for your car. Or go the closest match to your car in the stages.

[ALN]

I would speak to James before you rule Hondata out. If you are prepared to pay the $$$ you might even be able to convince James to do a reflash just for your mods - I don't know. Money talks.

I know Noel on TSX Club is running a Mines N1 VX-ROM



I have spoken to James about a month ago and that's what he said and it's coming next 2-3 months with price around $1200 for the reflash.
So yeah with the price I was thinking to find stand alone ecu if there is available even though it cost abit me more because that's only reflash. I'm also want something sooner than another 3 months.
I dont really like Japs ecu very rare to find someone who can tune it and the standard setting run rich. I would prefer Australia ecus or US

[Chris_F]

ALN - send those pictures to me too! Keen to see your car...

Anyway in relation to your thread...
your quieries couldn't have come at a better time! :thumbsup:

Anyway I'm in the same boat as you and have been looking for an ecu that is compatable with the euro (drive-by-wire/traction control/variable valve timing & control) for quite a while.

Just this morning I found what looks like a very promising standalone ecu that will no doubt be cheaper than the Motec Unit.


here is a link to some product details on the Australian distributors site.
http://www.compsystems.com.au/euro4.htm

and here is a brief PDF document detailing some of the features.
http://www.compsystems.com.au/Catalogues/EFIEuro/Euro4.pdf

A US distributor has already confirmed with me that this ecu is able to run variable cam timing etc (i-vtec for honda double vanos for bmw etc.)

I have since sent an email to the Australian distributor compsystems. And will post up whatever i find :thumbsup:

I'm excited about the possibility of this ECU breaking the tuning drought for the euro:)

edit: the entry level model euro1 with semi-sequential ignition (euro4 has sequential) also has DBW compatability.

a great deal of info on this model can be read here:

http://www.compsystems.com.au/Catalogues/EFIEuro/CSEuro1-prs.pdf

[yfin]

Chris - do you lose any features such as VSA?

[Chris_F]

Traction control is an option with this ecu - the only other option is drive-by-wire i believe.

I'm assuming traction control will replace VSA and not work in conjunction with it, although the VSA switch may still be able to be wired to turn it on and off :)

I'm doing my best to find out as much as I can about this.. I'll be sure to keep everyone informed :thumbsup:

[ALN]

very nice findings mate. fortunately they located in victoria as well so I'm goin to ring them soon next week.

is it the same with the realtime TSX ecu ? I saw the brand is about the identical.
http://www.realtimerl.com/content/acura-tsx
if yes will be very good for people in this forum.

I have spoken with microtech and they have the LT10s can work with DBW as parrarel ecu but it doesn't have the variable timing setting, only fuel and ignition.
I have been in touch via email with hydraems, they have the application for tsx on july this year but if we want something sooner they can provide the ecu as parrarel which can run ignition, fuel, and variable cam for IVtec.
but I don't know much about hydraems coz I've been doin research on the web about this company and I found only few people have been using it and nothing from honda K series.

[Chris_F]

sounds like you've got the ball rolling :thumbsup:

let us know what compsystems have to say about the EFI ecu :)

I think this is sounding like the best option so far. The hydra ecu is a bit too unknown for my liking, althought running the stock ecu paralell sounds interesting.

I didn't think there would be this many options so soon

[ALN]

sounds like you've got the ball rolling :thumbsup:

let us know what compsystems have to say about the EFI ecu :)

I think this is sounding like the best option so far. The hydra ecu is a bit too unknown for my liking, althought running the stock ecu paralell sounds interesting.

I didn't think there would be this many options so soon

yeah :D I'll give you guys an update next week.
what sort of price you are expecting for these ecu?
btw I don't know how attach the picture in PM. :)
can get ur email?

[Chris_F]

yeah :D I'll give you guys an update next week.
what sort of price you are expecting for these ecu?
btw I don't know how attach the picture in PM. :)
can get ur email?

Cool - looking foward to hearing about it :)

I'm guessing that the EFI euro4 ecu with DBW functionality will be easily over $2000. Possibly just under $3000 with DBW/traction control and wiring loom.

Hopefully I'm proven wrong. If the ecu can be had with DBW functionality for close to $2k, i think this may become a viable option for a lot of euro owners who want a tuneable ecu.

Just think of all the possibilites...

a k24 destroked then bored slightly to a k23.. valve to pistion clearence increases -> vtc mechanism can be tuned to well over 50 degrees, rev limit can be raised to 8k rpm +, high compression pistons further raising power and all bolt on mods I/H/E taken full advantage of. = an NA 250whp euro possibly capable of breaking into the low 14's high 13's.:cool:

[ALN]

Cool - looking foward to hearing about it :)

I'm guessing that the EFI euro4 ecu with DBW functionality will be easily over $2000. Possibly just under $3000 with DBW/traction control and wiring loom.

Hopefully I'm proven wrong. If the ecu can be had with DBW functionality for close to $2k, i think this may become a viable option for a lot of euro owners who want a tuneable ecu.

Just think of all the possibilites...

a k24 destroked then bored slightly to a k23.. valve to pistion clearence increases -> vtc mechanism can be tuned to well over 50 degrees, rev limit can be raised to 8k rpm +, high compression pistons further raising power and all bolt on mods I/H/E taken full advantage of. = an NA 250whp euro possibly capable of breaking into the low 14's high 13's.:cool:


I was guessing about the same number as yours about the ecu

It's possible to get thats number I have friends just rebuild his NSX with lighter forged parts easily gain 50hp on dyno before ecu tuned so I'm guessing with higher compression piston and better valves and spring with better lifting camshaft with proper ecu tuned we should make those number. Better intake manifold will make it more possible as k series engine is very easy to get hot.
I think with 250hp we should reach mid or 13's. I have try in calder park about 8 months ago with air filter and catback I hit 15.43 and i was run my with 19".
I might say with I/H/E and clutch flywheel combo with ecu we should in mid 14" or low 14" with proper launch. Ecu is the key believe or not. I have friends black d2 type-r with I/H/E with fly and clutch plus camshaft and bigger throttle body with autronic brain run 13.1. so I suppose the ecu helps the parts works to its maximum.

[Chris_F]

I was guessing about the same number as yours about the ecu

It's possible to get thats number I have friends just rebuild his NSX with lighter forged parts easily gain 50hp on dyno before ecu tuned so I'm guessing with higher compression piston and better valves and spring with better lifting camshaft with proper ecu tuned we should make those number. Better intake manifold will make it more possible as k series engine is very easy to get hot.
I think with 250hp we should reach mid or 13's. I have try in calder park about 8 months ago with air filter and catback I hit 15.43 and i was run my with 19".
I might say with I/H/E and clutch flywheel combo with ecu we should in mid 14" or low 14" with proper launch. Ecu is the key believe or not. I have friends black d2 type-r with I/H/E with fly and clutch plus camshaft and bigger throttle body with autronic brain run 13.1. so I suppose the ecu helps the parts works to its maximum.

well chosen engine internals and a good ecu really do make a huge difference to an engine.

15.43 is a very impressive time with just those mods and 19's haha! Would you ever consider going to 17's? I guess the mugen kit does look great with 19's tho :thumbsup:

The main reason i want an ecu is to fully extrapolate the potential of the gruppeM intake, maxim works headers and soon to come j's racing exhaust - I've sort of been building to the release of a tuneable ecu with my mods (atm they are overkill for the stock ecu but with tuning their benifits should become more pronounced).

Interestingly there was a CRX in another thread shown doing 11's with a Motec m400 ecu. Sure a lot of work has been done but my guess is this highly advanced ecu lets the engine run as quick as it does.

[ALN]

well chosen engine internals and a good ecu really do make a huge difference to an engine.

15.43 is a very impressive time with just those mods and 19's haha! Would you ever consider going to 17's? I guess the mugen kit does look great with 19's tho :thumbsup:

The main reason i want an ecu is to fully extrapolate the potential of the gruppeM intake, maxim works headers and soon to come j's racing exhaust - I've sort of been building to the release of a tuneable ecu with my mods (atm they are overkill for the stock ecu but with tuning their benifits should become more pronounced).

Interestingly there was a CRX in another thread shown doing 11's with a Motec m400 ecu. Sure a lot of work has been done but my guess is this highly advanced ecu lets the engine run as quick as it does.



I tried to fit 17" from a friend before but damn it looked damn small on my car with that kit and if I lowered it till 1 finger to fender ,the front bumper almost ground. anyway that's for the opinion. It's still a difference even I run with 19' forged and smaller wheels. Smaller rims just give more response and feel a bit faster.
Have you consider to get bigger throttle body? combine with header ,air filter you can really feel the Vtec scream especially with your single exhaust damn just better response. Hope the EFI ems come out with reachable price.

[Chris_F]

I tried to fit 17" from a friend before but damn it looked damn small on my car with that kit and if I lowered it till 1 finger to fender ,the front bumper almost ground. anyway that's for the opinion. It's still a difference even I run with 19' forged and smaller wheels. Smaller rims just give more response and feel a bit faster.
Have you consider to get bigger throttle body? combine with header ,air filter you can really feel the Vtec scream especially with your single exhaust damn just better response. Hope the EFI ems come out with reachable price.

Yea i can appreciate that. Even with the OEM kit my rims look a touch on the small side (I kinda like the look of slightly smaller rims anyway). And I've seen 17's on the mugen kit and they do look a bit out of place.

I didn't know a bigger throttle body was possible with Drive-By-Wire? Or do i have to find a 64mm or + throttle body designed to run with drive-by-wire? I think it'd probably be a good mod - I take it you noticed the difference.

What would you consider a reachable price for the EFI ems? I think tuning costs/dyno time will be the killer for me :( - If i start putting money aside now I may be able to afford by the end of the year if its under 3 grand installed (without tuning and dyno time). Maybe if we buy it at the same time they will offer a discount, who knows.

[yfin]

3 grand installed (without tuning and dyno time)

Man - you guys are hardcore :) and perhaps reinventing the wheel if you want to spend $3K plus tune plus dyno.

If I had a header and zorst I would probably save money and go stage 4 hondata with the perfect tune and sell the header and exhaust. The reason being is I can see the development that went into the product here and in the USA. Look at how many units of the reflash have been sold in the USA? Why throw thousands down the tube for potentially only a few more kilowatts of power with an unknown ECU (compared to Hondata)- or perhaps due to the lack of development and tuner experience with the K24 - less power. Just my 2 cents.

Or if I really wanted to keep the header and exhaust - i would find out more about stage 2. I noticed that James has updated the hondata website now. He says:

***
For owners of other band aftermarket Headers and Exhausts we recommend only stage 1 or 2 Hondata Hondatech Euro Flash Upgrades See Above for more infomation. We can not guarantee safe engine operation with other brands parts on the stage 3 and 4 Flash upgrades due to the dynamic nature and design implemented within the Hondatech headers and exhaust.

I've posted up a question about whether a different intake is ok on stage 3 and 4. Either way it is supported in stage 1/2.

[Chris_F]

Man - you guys are hardcore :) and perhaps reinventing the wheel if you want to spend $3K plus tune plus dyno.

If I had a header and zorst I would probably save money and go stage 4 hondata with the perfect tune and sell the header and exhaust. The reason being is I can see the development that went into the product here and in the USA. Look at how many units of the reflash have been sold in the USA? Why throw thousands down the tube for potentially only a few more kilowatts of power with an unknown ECU (compared to Hondata)- or perhaps due to the lack of development and tuner experience with the K24 - less power. Just my 2 cents.

Or if I really wanted to keep the header and exhaust - i would find out more about stage 2. I noticed that James has updated the hondata website now. He says:

***
For owners of other band aftermarket Headers and Exhausts we recommend only stage 1 or 2 Hondata Hondatech Euro Flash Upgrades See Above for more infomation. We can not guarantee safe engine operation with other brands parts on the stage 3 and 4 Flash upgrades due to the dynamic nature and design implemented within the Hondatech headers and exhaust.

I've posted up a question about whether a different intake is ok on stage 3 and 4. Either way it is supported in stage 1/2.

haha - well it's all mostly talk for me atm, just exploring the possibilities.

I think the EFI ecu would have to be comfortably under 3k If I'm to consider it.

I think what you're saying has a lot of merrit and for those with a few basic bolt-ons it may be worth selling them off and then buying hondatech products to utilise their various flash stages. In my case I've spent a LOT of money on my I/H/E package, not to mention euroR cat, and lightweight flywheel + clutch. I've basically gone all out and spared no expenses getting exactly the parts I want/think are the best. I would be utterly dissapointed to have spent all this money and then underutilise the true potential of the parts by settling for a very non-specific reflash... making less power than others with the full hondatech system which will undoubtedly be sold for less money.

For this reason, if I'm going to get an ecu it'll have to be a fully tuneable unit. My guess is the reflash will be around 1.5k, with a standalone unit costing roughly double (or tripple including tuning). But, just say that in 5 years I have a different car I should i be able to take the ecu out of the euro and use it with the new project.

I guess myself and ALN have a similar view point here. A tuneable ecu also opens up the possibilites for this engine as mentioned before (high compression, destroked + bored for higher rpm and valve to piston clearence etc.). I wouldn't be able to do this straight away, but I plan on keeping this car for at least 5 more years and I don't want to limit my options now.

A local shop will also be building two k24 race engines that will be tuned with a standalone ecu and with full internals etc. This gives me confidence that someone will know how to properly tune the k24 in my area when the time comes :thumbsup:

[BiLL|z0r]

Both yfin and Chris have very valid points and I guess it depends on what you're after. If you'd like a very wel researched instant solution with "limited" upgrade from that point on, then James reflash and parts are the way to go. If you're after more potential power, choice of parts, options to upgrade/move the ecu to another car & have a more $$$ to spend, then Chris' plan works best.

We also have to think about the future development on Hondata and although this is the solution offered now, who's to say James won't be able to extract more power with the offering of pretested and approved cams and more engine work.

[yfin]

Both yfin and Chris have very valid points and I guess it depends on what you're after. If you'd like a very wel researched instant solution with "limited" upgrade from that point on, then James reflash and parts are the way to go. If you're after more potential power, choice of parts, options to upgrade/move the ecu to another car & have a more $$$ to spend, then Chris' plan works best.

True - I guess it depends on how far you want to go. I would be perfectly happy with 150kw at the wheels with the stage 4 (yes - hub dyno). From there *maybe* one day lightened flywheel, HD clutch and lower final drive. Now that would be a special Euro to drive.

Getting the head open and changing internals and cams, etc is unlikely for most except Chris and ALN i think!

And Chris - I wouldn't be so sure there will be HUGE differences between the stage 2 and stage 4. You might just find the stage 2 with your mods is very similar (or close) to stage 4. We need to see the dynos of each stage - in the meantime I suggest you speak to Hondata.

[Chris_F]

True - I guess it depends on how far you want to go. I would be perfectly happy with 150kw at the wheels with the stage 4 (yes - hub dyno). From there *maybe* one day lightened flywheel, HD clutch and lower final drive. Now that would be a special Euro to drive.

Getting the head open and changing internals and cams, etc is unlikely for most except Chris and ALN i think!

And Chris - I wouldn't be so sure there will be HUGE differences between the stage 2 and stage 4. You might just find the stage 2 with your mods is very similar (or close) to stage 4. We need to see the dynos of each stage - in the meantime I suggest you speak to Hondata.

150kw at the wheels (on a hub dyno as mentioned) is very significant. My guess is around 135-140kw atw on a regular wheel dyno - accouting for around a 10% lower reading.

Hmm there mightn't be huge differences between 2 and 4. It remains though, I'd still prefer to surpass the gains the stage 4 kit offers not get close to or equal them (I don't think this would be possible with a stage 2 reflash designed for just an intake or exhaust) I agree - dyno's are definitely on order, interesting to see if the differences are actually that significant. At the end of the day Hondata is caterng for the Australian consumers better than i could have imagined so :thumbsup::thumbsup: to them for their efforts.

[yfin]

Hmm there mightn't be huge differences between 2 and 4. It remains though, I'd still prefer to surpass the gains the stage 4 kit offers not get close to or equal them (I don't think this would be possible with a stage 2 reflash designed for just an intake or exhaust) I agree - dyno's are definitely on order, interesting to see if the differences are actually that significant. At the end of the day Hondata is caterng for the Australian consumers better than i could have imagined so :thumbsup::thumbsup: to them for their efforts.

Ahh but how much are you willing to pay to surpass the stage 4 with an aftermarket ECU? You might need to spend thousands more to beat it by a measly few kws. Is it really worth it?

Sure we need to see dynos - but with stage 2 and your mods (especially the lighter flywheel, clutch - and one day lower final drive) - IMO you are still going to chop a stage 4 on the track without these mods. Sheer power at the wheels is not everything. Bring on the dyno graphs!

[Chris_F]

Ahh but how much are you willing to pay to surpass the stage 4 with an aftermarket ECU? You might need to spend thousands more to beat it by a measly few kws. Is it really worth it?

Sure we need to see dynos - but with stage 2 and your mods (especially the lighter flywheel, clutch - and one day lower final drive) - IMO you are still going to chop a stage 4 on the track without these mods. Sheer power at the wheels is not everything. Bring on the dyno graphs!

yea good point. I guess I'll have to wait to find out pricing for a tuneable ecu vs. reflash before i make up my mind.

the main reason for a tuneable ecu though is future potential. I know it may not provide a large number of gains over a reflash with bolt ons, but simply being able to tune the vtc mechanism to a 45 degree range can gain 20hp alone (as done by temple of vtec I think).

at least people like ALN and myself potentially have a few choices when it comes to the ecu :thumbsup:

[yfin]

A local shop will also be building two k24 race engines that will be tuned with a standalone ecu and with full internals etc. This gives me confidence that someone will know how to properly tune the k24 in my area when the time comes :thumbsup:

Hey Chris - can you divulge more info re this? Is the application for the CL9 or some other platform?

[Chris_F]

Check your PM:thumbsup:

[ALN]

Yea i can appreciate that. Even with the OEM kit my rims look a touch on the small side (I kinda like the look of slightly smaller rims anyway). And I've seen 17's on the mugen kit and they do look a bit out of place.

I didn't know a bigger throttle body was possible with Drive-By-Wire? Or do i have to find a 64mm or + throttle body designed to run with drive-by-wire? I think it'd probably be a good mod - I take it you noticed the difference.

What would you consider a reachable price for the EFI ems? I think tuning costs/dyno time will be the killer for me :( - If i start putting money aside now I may be able to afford by the end of the year if its under 3 grand installed (without tuning and dyno time). Maybe if we buy it at the same time they will offer a discount, who knows.


It's possible with DBW. I took my standard to workshop and they bored to 4 mm wider and changed the butterfly to bigger one.
06 TSx using the 64 mm or 06 civic si(if I'm not mistaken) both run DBW.
I saw a member in acura-tsx.com post thread bored his standard throtte body to 65 mm gained about 5-6hp above vtec point with standard mods.
but yeah it's better if you combine with header and much better with better cams
Yeah I think if it's more than 2.5k before tuned it will be out of reach for me. , hopefully it's less than 2k.
Tuning ecu usually gonna cost around $500-600
Hopefully they gonna give us some discount

[Chris_F]

ok thanks for the info. Sounds like boring the standard throttle body with a bigger butterfly piece would be the best way to go.

If a fully tuneable ecu is available for under 2k I think a lot of people will be happy to hear that - I'm really hoping it will be. I'd say about 2.5k is my absoloute limit aswell. I always thought tuning was more expensive than 5-600 dollars? This is good news too

[pornstar]

Autronic/motec, i believe haltech and wolf also. the EFI comp systems supported by pat cahill are a great option ecu.

[Chris_F]

pornstar, do you have any info as to the pricing of the EFI ecu's?

[Chris_F]

a bit of an update...

I did a bit of searching and found a post in an american forum stating that the EFI euro1 ece "can be had for about 1000 USD". This ecu is compatable with the functions of the latest honda i-VTEC engines and a seperate drive-by-wire module is also available.

So, the drawbacks in comparsion to the EFI euro4 is that it doesn't come with traction control, a seperate module is required for DBW (not an optional "built in" feature) and fuel ignition is only semi-sequential.

Initially i didn't know what the difference between semi-sequential or sequential was and I came across this from the motec USA website's definitions page (http://www.motec.com/definitions.htm)

"Sequential Fuel Injection - Sequential means that each injector for each cylinder is triggered only one time during the engine's cycle. Typically the injector is triggered only during the intake stroke. True sequential injection requires the ECU to know not only where top dead center is, but also which half of the cycle the engine is on. TDC on a 4 stroke occurs 2 times during the cycle, once on compression and once on exhaust. MoTeC references all timing events that occur within the ECU, to Top Dead Center Compression. This generally requires an input on the engine's camshaft to provide the ECU with a SYNC signal. Once the ECU is synched, injection timing can be optimized to provide the most efficient mixing of fuel and air into the cylinder. Control of injection timing can lead to increases in midrange torque while decreasing emissions and fuel consumption.

Semi-Sequential Fuel Injection - Semi-Sequential means that 2 or more cylinder's injectors are triggered at the same time, but only 1 time during the engine's cycle. This requires the ECU to be synched with the engine's cycle. Typically injection timing is retarded from the optimum timing point for full sequential by an angle which is equal to 1/2 the angle between 2 cylinders in crankshaft degrees. On a V8 Chevrolet, the injectors for cylinders 1 and 8 would be triggered at the same time. They would be triggered 45 degrees late for cylinder number 1 and 45 degrees early for cylinder number 8. Degrees between 1 and 8 = 90 ; 1/2 of 90 = 45. Semi-sequential allows optimization of injection timing which typically leads to increases in midrange torque and a reduction in fuel consumption for equivalent power compared which Batch fire." (Motec USA, 2006)


In short semi sequential means there are only 2 ignition drivers on the ecu and ignition is comprimised by "sharing" between cylinders. On our honda 4 cylinder engines for example, the ignition of 2 cylinders will occur simultaneously and optimisations of ignition timing is possible to a lesser extent than with a full sequential ecu (like the model above). Hopefuly that makes sense... i only just understand it myself.

What this means however is that an affordable, standalone and fully tuneable ecu is available for our cars at a price that should only marginally eclipse the $2000 mark at most (accounting for about 500 dollars for the DBW module). It'd be interesting to know wheather this module could be bought seperately... if so it would open a lot of possibilities for other ecu's to be used.

[ALN]

wow. really nice update mate. I was hoping it came lower than 2k.:).
which forum is it?
The euro6 type is really been using in BTCC k20a civic type-r , I saw in jasmotorsport web and I don't think It'll come cheap.

[pornstar]

Pat is on this forum.

i believe from memory, less than 2k, but i could be wrong.

ALN, if ur looking to do this ecu soon, shoot me a pm, have some ideas.

[Chris_F]

ALN i think it was the k20a.org forum - i can double check for ya if you want :thumbsup:

Yea the euro6 seems to be a step up again.

it's the euro1 and euro4 I'm interested in. I think euro4 is probably the way to go to take advantage of sequential ignition timing and traction control.

pornstar, think you could share some of your ideas with me as well? :angel:

[ALN]

cool, I have checked it in k20a.org. it said there about USD 1000. Hope the price is for real.