1000km oil change - which oil to use?

[tanalasta]

I rang my Honda dealer who said they use Shell Helix 2 at 1000km service. Or they could use Honda FEO for $30. The dealer does not recommend synthetic oils (ever) - something about the engine not bedding in properly and the temperature protection not being so good.

Now I know oil changes have been discussed at length but I haven't had much experience with the Shell or the Honda FEO stuff.

Any specific recommendations about which is the best semi-synth or if I should run a fully synth this early on in the piece? Price isn't an objection. Just availability within Perth.

I drive an '06 Euro.

[h22accord]

Go straight for the good stuff ENDLESS MOTOR OIL ,you,ll notice the difference and keeps the engine clean on the inside.

[aaronng]

I rang my Honda dealer who said they use Shell Helix 2 at 1000km service. Or they could use Honda FEO for $30. The dealer does not recommend synthetic oils (ever) - something about the engine not bedding in properly and the temperature protection not being so good.

Now I know oil changes have been discussed at length but I haven't had much experience with the Shell or the Honda FEO stuff.

Any specific recommendations about which is the best semi-synth or if I should run a fully synth this early on in the piece? Price isn't an objection. Just availability within Perth.

I drive an '06 Euro.
Run a mineral oil for the 1000km service. You can then change to synthetic for the next one. The most important thing is you stick to 10w-30 or 5w-30, 0w-30, 10w-40, 5w-40 or 0w-40 when you use an oil other than FEO.

What is Shell Helix 2? I don't see it on the website. There are only Shell Helix Ultra, Plus, Super and Multigrade. Why don't you tell them you are bringing your own oil in and get them to subtract the cost of the Shell Helix that they use? Then you go to the parts department yourself, buy Honda FEO for $30 for a 5L bottle and leave it on your front seat.

[fraqqie]

the dealer that i service my car at sydney uses Castrol Magnatec.. supposely its semi-synthetic

but thats for my 60000km servicing, so i wouldnt be too sure what they would sure for 1000km

i did read something in the past about using synthetic oil later in the life of the car... i think i read that at tsx.acurazine.com but i cant remember the exact arguement for that though

i just checked the Shell website and im not if thats semi-syn or mineral but if u had a choice (probably once the engine gathers more Km's), go semi-syn if not full syn

recommendations... im using Mobil-S (10-40w -- i didnt bother with the Castrol stuff since it was overpriced compared to the same thing at SuperCheapAuto) that set me back about 30 bucks, if i had the money i would've gotten Motul 4100 (10-40w) for about 45 bucks

so far so good i guess

Disclaimer: If anythign happens to ur machine, it aint my fault! :p

i reckon u cant go wrong with either mobil or motul

btw. how much are they chargin you for the Shell Helix?

[aaronng]

Go straight for the good stuff ENDLESS MOTOR OIL ,you,ll notice the difference and keeps the engine clean on the inside.
Do you have any basis for your advice?

[EuroDude]

IMO you should just use Honda FEO for the first ~15,000km, then decide on what to use after that if you want to use Synthetic.

[jamchen]

run on mineral for the first 5,000km... just to help the engine to break-in better... the reason for not using full-syn is probably its a bit thin for new engines...
i put motul mineral oil ( can't remember the name) but its still running strong now (6500km on the clock)

h22accord. i think u misread 1,000km to 10,000km :P

[SMEAGLE]

ahhh whatever ppl say.. dont listen..

either use the recommended oil (detailed in your honda manual).. depends on weather conditions as well of course but I'd say, vtec's love the full super synthetic.. 10-50
go hard.

[jamchen]

SMEAGLE... there's no such recommended oil in the user's manual... unless u r talking about the grades... which u have to follow anyway... not either.

i will state this once again, it's not recommended to use full-syn within the first 5,000km or even until 10,0000km... in order to help ur engine to break-in better.... full stop.

[aaronng]

ahhh whatever ppl say.. dont listen..

either use the recommended oil (detailed in your honda manual).. depends on weather conditions as well of course but I'd say, vtec's love the full super synthetic.. 10-50
go hard.
LOL, using 10w-50 might void your engine warranty if you have a problem while having that oil in your engine, because the maximum allowed for the euro is 10w-40 or 15w-40!

[Omotesando]

Sometimes I query if putting in Synthetic early on in the car's life is really that bad?

Well Synthetic and Mineral or Semi-synthetics are similar enough in lubrication. Its just that full synthetic lasts a bit longer before breaking down, not to mention a synthetic has better working temperature range. But...

I wonder if Formula 1 or GP2 engines use mineral oil to break in? :O

[aaronng]

Sometimes I query if putting in Synthetic early on in the car's life is really that bad?

Well Synthetic and Mineral or Semi-synthetics are similar enough in lubrication. Its just that full synthetic lasts a bit longer before breaking down, not to mention a synthetic has better working temperature range. But...

I wonder if Formula 1 or GP2 engines use mineral oil to break in? :O
From what I've read from oil analysis done between a mineral and PAO synthetic, they both have the same viscosity, but the synthetic oil itself naturally is more slippery than the mineral oil. So there will be less wear when under stressed conditions. Since a new engine is a stressed condition with parts not yet worn in and the surfaces not "fitted" to each other, mineral oil allows the wear to happen, while synthetics would continue to protect even when the oil film is squeezed to a very thin layer.

[Eurotony]

As mentioned in a couple of previous threads I changed to Mobil 1 10w 30 full synthetic oil. The car was put on full synthetic Mobil 1 at about 2k (I was late getting my 1st service). The car now has 75k & is running as good as ever, I did over a thousand km's over the weekend & got about 7.28 litres per 100km for the trip. The engine uses no oil, the oil is always clean at oil change. I have no issue with using a fully synthetic oil. my local dealers FEO oil is blended by Caltex. I think it depends on your state & the dealers choice as to what oil they use at service.

[Omotesando]

How about if I run a full synthetic oil since 1000Km and then rev it very hard to run in the engine instead of putting in mineral oil and drive it slowly? LOL :)
Seriously though, the gearbox and other things cold need running in though. I'm just saying.

But a lot of European cars now run synthetic from the factory. They never said that the engines were run in, but they recommend it anyhow.

[aaronng]

How about if I run a full synthetic oil since 1000Km and then rev it very hard to run in the engine instead of putting in mineral oil and drive it slowly? LOL :)
Seriously though, the gearbox and other things cold need running in though. I'm just saying.

But a lot of European cars now run synthetic from the factory. They never said that the engines were run in, but they recommend it anyhow.
Hehe, yeah, the engine parts are pretty good and don't need much running in. It's mostly the piston rings which are sensitive to the synthetic oil as well as the gearbox and drivetrain. When running in the engine, you are not wearing the rough spots down, but rather getting the moving parts to match each other. They are pretty smooth from the factory, I've read, because of the improved casting process.

A lot of BMWs that I see also have a noisy engine (almost every E36 and E46 on the road). :)

[tanalasta]

In the end, I bowed down to popular opinion and chose a semi-synth for my 1000km change. Actually, it's getting done now as I speak (sitting around the corner at Utopia with my laptop whilst Prestige Honda are tinkering with my vehicle). Oil + filter.

Went for Motul 4100 10W-40W with the view of using Motul 8100 or 300V at the 10000km service.

Yet to decide what oil I will use at 5000km.

[aaronng]

If you find that you like 4100 10w-40, then use that at 5000km too. but I think 5000km is such a short interval that even regular mineral oil wouldn't break down by then.

[tanalasta]

The dealer put a 5000km service sticker on my car and whilst I'm running the car in, I'll probably get the oil + filter changed anyhow. It's only $45 for Motul 4100 turbolight anyhow from motorquip. $10 for the filter and <$1 for the sump plug (according to the dealer invoice).

That way, I know my car's oil will last from 5000 to 10000km.

No problems with Prestige Honda's service although looking at the fuel economy/trip computer, it's obvious whoever who test drove my car post-service had a bit of fun with it *grins, it's not him who pays for BP ultimate*. It's a good idea to reset the fuel economy/trip computer on the '06 models when you take it in for service... if you notice that fuel economy average 'way up there' you know the apprentice's been a bit heavy on the accelerator :P *I'd do the same too*

Got a smidgen of oil left in the 5L bottle for me. Oh, and I forgot to tell them not to wash my car so a half dozen micro paint scratches *sighs*... my car is sitting outside right now with the meguairs gold-class wax curing on it. And I only waxed it 2 weeks ago!!! So much for Ming protection ... seeing I clean bird crap and wipe tree sap off as soon as I see it (keep a good quality Sheridan face towel in my car).

Still deciding whether I will splurge on 300V or stick with 8100 Motul synthetic for 10000km but I'm 9 months from making that decision.

Price of first service - $55. $45 for the oil. $10 for the labour free filter/sump plug. Will highly recommend Prestige/Melville Honda out of the Perth dealers for servicing. Just remember, remember to tell them to forego the complimentary wash ... I don't buy lambswool mits just so the apprentice and scratch my paint with a dirty towel :$

*edit*
After 1000km service, the car does feel more sprightly. Like it was when I first picked up my car new. Not sure why ... but it was quite sluggish around the 800-1000km mark, especially at higher gears. Much better now.

[CIGXM]

No problems with Prestige Honda's service although looking at the fuel economy/trip computer, it's obvious whoever who test drove my car post-service had a bit of fun with it *grins, it's not him who pays for BP ultimate*. It's a good idea to reset the fuel economy/trip computer on the '06 models when you take it in for service... if you notice that fuel economy average 'way up there' you know the apprentice's been a bit heavy on the accelerator :P *I'd do the same too*

If your fuel economy is way down, it may not be because they leadfooted it around the place....they could have had it sitting idling in the workshop for a while.

[corn_flakes]

ok, i'm about to do my 30,000km service.

i know the recommended viscosity rating at high/running temperatures is max 40, but i have a bottle of mobil 1 5W-50.

what are your EXPERT opinions on using sae 50 oil? is it too thick at running temperature, or should i be ok to use it instead of a 40?

[Crapdaz]

look at your manual there is a range of oils you can use.
atm i just stick with 0w or 5W - 40.

[corn_flakes]

yeh i know, but i've got a bottle of 5w-50 oil that i want to use.....the manual recommends sae 40.

just wanted to see everyone's opinion.

[aaronng]

In my opinion, the 5w-50 is too thick. 40 is the thickest i would go.

[corn_flakes]

and with the cold weather getting around everywhere cold starts wouldn't make 5w50 any better cause it's thick.

???

the viscosity rating at cold temps is 5.....the vis. rating of 50 is for 100deg celcius, so that shouldn't make a difference for cold starts.

am i right?

[slidetaker]

Wouldn't run Mobil1 5w50 in a Euro with 30k km...too thick too young.

[Eurotony]

I would only use Mobil1 10w-30, which is the oil grade recommended for the Euro motor.

[tron07]

After changing oil at 2k, you plan to change again at 5k? I think its a bit overkill to do so...

the manual didnt state you need to change oil at 1k too....

[aaronng]

???

the viscosity rating at cold temps is 5.....the vis. rating of 50 is for 100deg celcius, so that shouldn't make a difference for cold starts.

am i right?

Cold rating is at -18 C, which we do not get. So the "5" is not really relevant in our aussie climate.

[Type R Positive]

The dealer does not recommend synthetic oils (ever) - something about the engine not bedding in properly
TRUE. (for break in period)

and the temperature protection not being so good.
FALSE. VERY FALSE.

[Type R Positive]

ok, i'm about to do my 30,000km service.

i know the recommended viscosity rating at high/running temperatures is max 40, but i have a bottle of mobil 1 5W-50.

what are your EXPERT opinions on using sae 50 oil? is it too thick at running temperature, or should i be ok to use it instead of a 40?
If you got 50wt, use it. It will be fine. ;)

[tony1234]

I would only use Mobil1 10w-30, which is the oil grade recommended for the Euro motor.
Agreed.I wouldn't go above the"40"grade.

[Type R Positive]

Can you boys tell the difference in oils?

I can't.

BTW, I run full synth 15w50 in my 13:1 comp 12,000rpm dirtbike, and I can't tell the difference between 15w50 and 10w40, besides the 15w50 seems to last longer.

[tony1234]

Can you boys tell the difference in oils?

I can't.

BTW, I run full synth 15w50 in my 13:1 comp 12,000rpm dirtbike, and I can't tell the difference between 15w50 and 10w40, besides the 15w50 seems to last longer.
I can't either.But i wouldn't take the chance for no apparent gain in using a 50 grade over a 30 or 40 grade.

[slidetaker]

A 50wt oil does have more drag inside the engine than a 40wt. In terms of horsepower and fuel eco, you probably can't tell driving it.

As 90&#37; of engine wear occurs at start-up, a 50wt, Mobil 1 5W50 will have a thicker viscosity over 100cSt than a 5W40 around 70cSt to start off with. The viscosity of 50wt is further away from the operating temperature than a 40wt, it will take a slightly longer time for 50wt to increase its lubrication ability than a 40wt. Thus, the increase of start-up wear.

Furthermore, there is no real benefit using a 50wt than a 40wt in such a car with its nearly new condition. If it is a car over 200k km mileage battling fuel dilution, then that's a different story.

[corn_flakes]

will be buying a new bottle of 10w-30 or 10w-40 for my next service. :)

[Type R Positive]

I can't either.But i wouldn't take the chance for no apparent gain in using a 50 grade over a 30 or 40 grade.
Yeah, but he already has a bottle laying around.

I suppose he could try and exchange it, if he really wanted to. :)

[tony1234]

Yeah, but he already has a bottle laying around.

I suppose he could try and exchange it, if he really wanted to. :)
Yeah he could try and exchange it.i still wouldn't use it even if it was for free.

[corn_flakes]

was bought ages ago, not intended for my car as i don't need a service yet.

just thought i might use it since it was lying around.

[slidetaker]

was bought ages ago, not intended for my car as i don't need a service yet.

just thought i might use it since it was lying around.

If you can't sell it or exchange it. You could consider mixing.

Go to Autobarn, grab a bottle of Mobil 1 5W30 silver bottle silver cap, then do a 50% 5W30 and 50% Mobil 1 5W50 for your next oil change. That will result in a viscosity around 5W40. All Mobil 1 are compatible.

In terms of the method of mixing, there are brands, viscosity and proportion one would try. However, a case of mixing Mobil 1 and 50% proportion is as safe as you will get using the mixing method. Going further than this, most people get more misses than hits meaning not getting a good result.

[corn_flakes]

anyone know where i can get 'crush washers' from? so i can replace it when i put the sump plug back on?

i'm usually lazy and don't replace it if the washer still looks fine, but since they're cheap as chips i'm thinking why not.

is there anything i need to know about crush washers, besides getting the correct size? like are there different ones made out of different materials?

what's the washer size for the euro's sump plug? i'm too lazy to open my workshop manual...lol :)

[yourfather]

acura of escondido on ebay sell oem parts from US cheap.

[aaronng]

anyone know where i can get 'crush washers' from? so i can replace it when i put the sump plug back on?

i'm usually lazy and don't replace it if the washer still looks fine, but since they're cheap as chips i'm thinking why not.

is there anything i need to know about crush washers, besides getting the correct size? like are there different ones made out of different materials?

what's the washer size for the euro's sump plug? i'm too lazy to open my workshop manual...lol :)
Get it from any hardware shop that sells car parts/tools like Autobarn or Bursons. It uses a 10mm aluminium crush washer.

[EUR003act]

Can you boys tell the difference in oils?

I can't.

BTW, I run full synth 15w50 in my 13:1 comp 12,000rpm dirtbike, and I can't tell the difference between 15w50 and 10w40, besides the 15w50 seems to last longer.

check this out:

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=OHv0aihDlCI

[Type R Positive]

check this out:

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=OHv0aihDlCI
The old dreaded dyno......

[V205]

Can't go wrong with Honda FEO 10w-30 Mineral but you have to buy the bottle yourself. I don't know of ANY honda dealer that uses FEO oil as their regular service oil as they buy drums of Shell helix.. Magnatec etc. It's interesting that it's very hard to find another mineral 10w-30 engine oil.

[hisoka]

buy it from honda and ask for the washer its another 75 cents. use honda oil on ure car.

royal purple and motul okai aswell

[corn_flakes]

anyone know any shops that are having sales on their oil?

i want to get some motul 8100 but there was no sale on at autobarn and it was 70 something bucks!

[tony1234]

anyone know any shops that are having sales on their oil?

i want to get some motul 8100 but there was no sale on at autobarn and it was 70 something bucks!
Supercheap have regular sales,keep an eye on their website and radio adverts.

[Crapdaz]

Supercheap have regular sales,keep an eye on their website and radio adverts.
supercheap doesnt stock motul brand @ all.....

if your at supercheap go for castrol edge it does the job and can pick it up for $40 > on sale.

[Type R Positive]

supercheap doesnt stock motul brand @ all.....Yeah they do!

[tony1234]

Yeah they do!
I thought they did,just not all stores i think.

[corn_flakes]

hmm, i went to supercheap the other day and they all had sh!t oils. none of the good stuff

the only decent ones they had were the NULON brand ones...anyone tried those?

[tony1234]

hmm, i went to supercheap the other day and they all had sh!t oils. none of the good stuff

the only decent ones they had were the NULON brand ones...anyone tried those?
They've got a sale on now,check it out.Buy either Castrol Edge 5W30 or 0W40,they should be on sale.

[tony1234]

Look here!http://www.supercheapauto.com/CatalogueImages/24797/AUST-WEEK32.pdf
Page 4 CastrolEdge 0W40 $50

[aaronng]

Look here!http://www.supercheapauto.com/CatalogueImages/24797/AUST-WEEK32.pdf
Page 4 CastrolEdge 0W40 $50

Good price. Regular pricing is $69.99

[Crapdaz]

Well all the supercheaps i've been to don't stock motul...

^ as above grab a bottle won't go wrong!!

[corn_flakes]

all good for castrol edge then? i will get that 2moro if you all recommend it...

[aaronng]

all good for castrol edge then? i will get that 2moro if you all recommend it...

It's good. The Edge 0w-40 is right up there with Motul 8100 5w-40. I've used both on the track and my engine didn't blow after 90 minutes of 4000-7000rpm tracktime.

Don't confuse it with the cheaper and less spectacular Edge 5w-30 (which I buy at $30 during sales for normal street driving)

[corn_flakes]

^ i hope that "cheaper and less spectacular Edge" comes in a different look bottle. lol.

[aaronng]

^ i hope that "cheaper and less spectacular Edge" comes in a different look bottle. lol.

Nope, it looks EXACTLY the same! LOL. So watch out for the numbers 5w-30 and regular price of $49.99 (or thereabouts) vs the good stuff which says 0w-40 and $69.99.

[corn_flakes]

is the cost difference just because of the SAE rating?

are they essentially the same oil, but with a different rating? or are they two completely different oils...bit misleading isn't it? lol

[slidetaker]

Edge sport 5w30 and Edge 0w40 are very different oil.

Differences are in Viscosity rating, base oil composition, add packs, manufacturers approvals, specifications.

Misleading if only judged by looking at the color and shape of the bottle. Things start to clear up if you read the text and number.

[aaronng]

is the cost difference just because of the SAE rating?

are they essentially the same oil, but with a different rating? or are they two completely different oils...bit misleading isn't it? lol

They are completely different oils. 5w-30 is a mineral oil that is hydrocracked (group III) to get the right chain length to have good protection. But under extreme conditions, it should break down just like a mineral oil.

0w-40 is a true synthetic oil (PAO Group IV), like Motul 8100 5w-40 and Mobil1. So you have good protection and also longevity.

If you are after a 5w-30 PAO Group IV oil, Mobil1 comes in that viscosity. However, it is $99.99 if I remember correctly.

[Euro_CU2]

This is for the CU2 Only.

It seems the first service is at 1000Km or after one month but this is only to check how everything is going with the car and Honda do not replace the engine oil on this service.

I find this a bit strange as i think i will get them or even change the engine oil myself.

Question is, what oil is a good choice for a new engine only after 1000k's .... Not fully synthetic i believe ..

And what do you guys suggest..

[tony1234]

Good price. Regular pricing is $69.99
I'm off tomorrow to Supercheap to buy 2 bottles.:thumbsup:

[EUR003act]

If you are after a 5w-30 PAO Group IV oil, Mobil1 comes in that viscosity. However, it is $99.99 if I remember correctly.

is that the mobil1 supersyn 5w-30 used in HSVs?

autobarn have it for $89...

would that be better at opertating temp on an 8krpm rev limit? (than 0w-40)

[tony1234]

This is for the CU2 Only.

It seems the first service is at 1000Km or after one month but this is only to check how everything is going with the car and Honda do not replace the engine oil on this service.

I find this a bit strange as i think i will get them or even change the engine oil myself.

Question is, what oil is a good choice for a new engine only after 1000k's .... Not fully synthetic i believe ..

And what do you guys suggest..
For CU2 i think Honda recommend you don't change the oil till 10K.It's a special "run in"oil that is used.I wouldn't change it before 5K.

[Euro_CU2]

Tony1234 - Thanks for the info, guess i better leave it after a few 1000K's ...

[geekmonkey]

just got one from supacheap liverpool...last one....lucky last

[aaronng]

is that the mobil1 supersyn 5w-30 used in HSVs?

autobarn have it for $89...

would that be better at opertating temp on an 8krpm rev limit? (than 0w-40)

Even FEO can withstand 8000 rpm in a DC5R. So both mobil1 and edge 0w-40 will be good.

[corn_flakes]

just finished and engine oil and filter change...my god it's hot outside, thank god i was under shade.

bought a bottle of castrol edge 0w-40 from supercheap auto (get some now before the sale is over guys), and replaced the oil filter with the honda OEM one.

drained the old oil and only got out about 3.5L, so good timing to replace it as i didn't have any oil around to top it off. and my god was it filthy after 9,000kms. put about 4.25L of the new stuff in.

my car feels CLEAN and detoxed now! :D


anyway, is it just me or is anyone else paranoid whenever they are working under the car on axle stands? i just kept thinking "i hope the last thing i see in my life isn't my headers". lol



EDIT: and watch out not to buy the wrong castrol edge like aaronng said (the cheaper 5w-30 one which is about $50 non-sale). i went into supercheap and they have a MASSIVE display with the 5w-30 for everyone to see, and yet the 0w-40 was all the way at the back of the store on a small shelf. ;)

[tony1234]

just finished and engine oil and filter change...my god it's hot outside, thank god i was under shade.

bought a bottle of castrol edge 0w-40 from supercheap auto (get some now before the sale is over guys), and replaced the oil filter with the honda OEM one.

drained the old oil and only got out about 3.5L, so good timing to replace it as i didn't have any oil around to top it off. and my god was it filthy after 9,000kms. put about 4.25L of the new stuff in.

my car feels CLEAN and detoxed now! :D


anyway, is it just me or is anyone else paranoid whenever they are working under the car on axle stands? i just kept thinking "i hope the last thing i see in my life isn't my headers". lol



EDIT: and watch out not to buy the wrong castrol edge like aaronng said (the cheaper 5w-30 one which is about $50 non-sale). i went into supercheap and they have a MASSIVE display with the 5w-30 for everyone to see, and yet the 0w-40 was all the way at the back of the store on a small shelf. ;)
Yea i found the same thing.$51.95 for Castrol Edge 5W30.WTF!!Bought the last 2 bottles of 0W40 in the store.:D

[corn_flakes]

lol yeh i was lucky they still had plenty of 0w-40 in the store.

and you greedy gut! lol. i was also thinking about buying 2 bottles, but it will be a while till my next oil change anyway and i suppose there will be another sale in the future ;)

[aaronng]

Yea i found the same thing.$51.95 for Castrol Edge 5W30.WTF!!Bought the last 2 bottles of 0W40 in the store.:D
Yup, looks like regular pricing has gone up. Wait til the $30 5w-30 sale comes around again. Tightarses like me would come around and buy 4 bottles. That particular day that I stocked up, I bought 4 bottles of 5w-30 and 1 bottle of cheapo Mobil S 10w-40.

[Crapdaz]

lol yeh i was lucky they still had plenty of 0w-40 in the store.

and you greedy gut! lol. i was also thinking about buying 2 bottles, but it will be a while till my next oil change anyway and i suppose there will be another sale in the future ;)
not if you do your typical 5k oil change.

[corn_flakes]

i don't even drive my car much, so i do an oil change every ~10,000ish kms.

and that's probably about every 12 months?

i know the book says every 10,000kms or 6mths (which ever comes first), but i just go by kms.

does anyone have any expert opinions on the affect of engine oil over time? should we really change the oil every 6mths regardless of how many kms we've driven?

(i know that for the first 6mths of 2008 i only drove my car for 1500kms since i was overseas most of the time...seems like a waste just to change the oil again after 1500kms!)

[aaronng]

i don't even drive my car much, so i do an oil change every ~10,000ish kms.

and that's probably about every 12 months?

i know the book says every 10,000kms or 6mths (which ever comes first), but i just go by kms.

does anyone have any expert opinions on the affect of engine oil over time? should we really change the oil every 6mths regardless of how many kms we've driven?

(i know that for the first 6mths of 2008 i only drove my car for 1500kms since i was overseas most of the time...seems like a waste just to change the oil again after 1500kms!)
Depends. If you do only short trips, then I'd change every 6 months to avoid a buildup moisture in the engine oil.

[tony1234]

i don't even drive my car much, so i do an oil change every ~10,000ish kms.

and that's probably about every 12 months?

i know the book says every 10,000kms or 6mths (which ever comes first), but i just go by kms.

does anyone have any expert opinions on the affect of engine oil over time? should we really change the oil every 6mths regardless of how many kms we've driven?

(i know that for the first 6mths of 2008 i only drove my car for 1500kms since i was overseas most of the time...seems like a waste just to change the oil again after 1500kms!)
Change oil every 10K or 6 mths.whatever comes first.Even if you only do 1.5K in 6 mths.change it.

[corn_flakes]

was just wondering....where do you guys dispose your old oil in sydney?

[Crapdaz]

local mechanics can do them, just leave them the bottle of old oil...

[aaronng]

was just wondering....where do you guys dispose your old oil in sydney?

Those waste management centers. Look out for their signs when you drive around. There is one in North Ryde. They let you dump up to 10L at a time at no charge.

[geekmonkey]

just changed the oil with castrol edge......

it doesnt feel much difference???

[Crapdaz]

^ lol even when you rev it?

doesn't it feel smoother?

[aaronng]

^ lol even when you rev it?

doesn't it feel smoother?
There shouldn't be a noticeable difference unless your previous oil was totally fcked.

[Crapdaz]

There shouldn't be a noticeable difference unless your previous oil was totally fcked.

hahahahha yes, thats what i found when i changed the oil the first time to motul 8100 turbolight. It revv'd alot better hahah but normally you won't notice .... :p

[Dilan]

Hey guys,

My CU2 (manual) is due for the 1000km/1 month service. It has only done 500km but the 1month has come. Just a bit confused, should I not bother with asking them for an oil change? Should I stick with the oil that Travis Honda reconmends at future services?

[tony1234]

Hey guys,

My CU2 (manual) is due for the 1000km/1 month service. It has only done 500km but the 1month has come. Just a bit confused, should I not bother with asking them for an oil change? Should I stick with the oil that Travis Honda reconmends at future services?
You don't change oil on CU2 till 10K.But if it was my car i'd change it round the 5K mark with a full synthetic.Buy your own oil and when you get it serviced let the service guy know you brought your own oil.You'll then know what oil is in your car.

[tron07]

For my CL9, at 1000km I ask them to change the oil, not sure what oil they use but I think its honda feo mineral oil. Then at 10,000km I use castrol Edge

[tony1234]

I wouldn't use FEO and leave it in for 10k.It's mineral oil and it tends to break down approx.7-8K

[aaronng]

And some dealers are too cheap to use even FEO. Instead, they use what they have by the drum, and that is usually magnatec.

[Crapdaz]

agreed with aaron.

[tron07]

I wouldn't use FEO and leave it in for 10k.It's mineral oil and it tends to break down approx.7-8K


1k+ change to feo, service around 9k+... just nice :p

[onefortheroad]

had my 09 Euro Man in for the 1000K checkup, the Honda man on the floor said to only use the Honda 30 grade oil up to 10,000 or 6months with no filter change? :D

[nickxau]

Had my 1,000kms checkup a few weeks ago as well but before it was due I spoke to the service manager and he said it's not recommended to change the oil at 1,000kms but to wait till the first service at 10,000kms. However, if I insisted they could do it (at a charge of course) but then he'd still discourage me from changing the oil. In the end I just opted for a regular 1,000kms checkup.

[tony1234]

Had my 1,000kms checkup a few weeks ago as well but before it was due I spoke to the service manager and he said it's not recommended to change the oil at 1,000kms but to wait till the first service at 10,000kms. However, if I insisted they could do it (at a charge of course) but then he'd still discourage me from changing the oil. In the end I just opted for a regular 1,000kms checkup.
Change the oil at approx.5-6K and then run a good full synthetic,you then can change the oil every 10K service.

[onefortheroad]

Change the oil at approx.5-6K and then run a good full synthetic,you then can change the oil every 10K service.

:thumbsup:thanks for that, will run 0W/40 Castrol Edge at the 5K mark. Have bought some Honda FEO 10W/30+filter+washer for $58.This should keep her clean untill 5K.:honda:

[tron07]

I think 5-6k is still too early for fully sync, go for feo and let the engine run in more with mineral oil. Then change to full at 10k and next 20k, etc...

If you change ffull sync at 5k then change it again at 10k, it would be a waste/overkill

[Bobjones]

Due to the engine pinging noise I have let Honda put in whatever the hell they use and then I will use full synthetic, and swear by Mobil 1, have had an engine fail due to Motul Turbolight, and I even use Mobil 1 in my rotary which is something alot of oldies swear is BAD cause synthetic does not burn (rotors have oil injection for those that don't know), though I have never had a problem and pulling the engine done there is less deposits so go figure...

[Type R Positive]

and I even use Mobil 1 in my rotary which is something alot of oldies swear is BAD cause synthetic does not burn
Who ever told you that needs a kick in the head. :zip:

[tony1234]

I think 5-6k is still too early for fully sync, go for feo and let the engine run in more with mineral oil. Then change to full at 10k and next 20k, etc...

If you change ffull sync at 5k then change it again at 10k, it would be a waste/overkill
True.Just run FEO,change at approx.5-6K,run FEO again till 10K then go full synthetic.