need suggestion on boot installation

[civicCXI]

This is to start with
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/civicCXI/DSC00061.jpg
And This is what I'm planning to do
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/civicCXI/DSC00062.jpg
It looks pretty crowded. The sub is 12" in custom box and faced upward (if faced toward the door, it's only like 4 cm away).
I want to do simple and neat installation and my budget is $500 for the installation. Can some1 suggest me something???amps racks???

cheers :wave:

[EGB18CT]

willing to remove the spare tyre? if yes, fibreglass the sub in the middle with the two amps on either side on top of it and the cd changer in between, otherwise hide the cd changer in the glove box???? bit of work tho. otherwise you could do the same thing and build on top of the spare tyre. Check out some car audio sites or caraudioaustralia.com (car audio forum)

[EGB18CT]

also try keeping the sub facing to the roof... beauty of hatches it will always sound better and louder!

[civicCXI]

i can't remove the spare tyre. If i did, the floor will buckle and may need somekind of re-inforcement. That's if I don't want to do fibreglass.
Suppose that I want to do fibreglassing like u suggesting, will $500 be enough to cover it all?

Oh btw, the cd changer will be removed since i'm getting a new head unit.

[mugeneration]

i can't remove the spare tyre. If i did, the floor will buckle and may need somekind of re-inforcement. That's if I don't want to do fibreglass.
Suppose that I want to do fibreglassing like u suggesting, will $500 be enough to cover it all?

Oh btw, the cd changer will be removed since i'm getting a new head unit.

If you do it all yourself, yeah it probably will.

And why would your floor buckle if you took the spare out? WHat's it like a load bearing device or sumthin? lol

[micka]

willing to remove the spare tyre? if yes, fibreglass the sub in the middle with the two amps on either side on top of it

I've seen something very similar to what you're suggesting in an EG civic hatch. didn't need to use fibreglass, used 24mm mdf to make a box approx 1.1 cuft in the spare wheel well, and putting a 24mm false floor over it. Mounting the sub inverted, with an amp either side of the magnet. looks pretty good to me :)

sorry for the poorly written description above, brain not working atm

[stanleym]

If you do it all yourself, yeah it probably will.

And why would your floor buckle if you took the spare out? WHat's it like a load bearing device or sumthin? lol


your pretti much right my old 91 teg had the same things everything sat on the spare so i built a cover out of mdf etc...


in regards the to the above question
are you willing to change sub boxes?? if so u can make one a little more user friendly.. if u into making the box design one based off the angle of the resr seats to the floor...

if u not inot making your own strathfield sell boxes without hole in which fit into the 91 tegs very nicely
i had 2 12" subs with these 2 boxes and fit between the suspension/shock wateva it is mould very nicely with the amps just attached to the seat

i will atach waht i have in my dc2 which is pretty much the same

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f244/stanleym_69/IMG_0187.jpg

like that if u get the idea also provides some boot space

[civicCXI]

And why would your floor buckle if you took the spare out? WHat's it like a load bearing device or sumthin? lol
hahahah dunno the correct term for it, but i just did an engineering exam so buckle is the first thing on my mind.....the floor is quite thin so w/o the spare wheel to support it from below, it'll break under load (the sub).


I've seen something very similar to what you're suggesting in an EG civic hatch. didn't need to use fibreglass, used 24mm mdf to make a box approx 1.1 cuft in the spare wheel well, and putting a 24mm false floor over it. Mounting the sub inverted, with an amp either side of the magnet. looks pretty good to me :)
You mean to put the sub facing the spare wheel well?? If I get rid of the box and put the sub into the false floor facing the roof, will it effect the sound quality or whatever due to the enclosure thingy?


are you willing to change sub boxes?? if so u can make one a little more user friendly.. if u into making the box design one based off the angle of the resr seats to the floor...
Nice setup you got there. I can see your subs are very close to the door. How's the sound quality? How much did you spend on your installation? Yea I'll prob change the box. It looks ugly anyway. Prob I'll get the off the shelf one. Can't be bothered to try making it my self

[micka]

the enclosure sits in the spare wheel well, the false floor doubles as the top side of the enclosure (ie there's a hole in it to facilitate the mounting of the sub).

[civicCXI]

micka:
I see what u mean, with the sub facing the enclosure like that, is the sound quality still good, loud and clear??

[micka]

it'll be no different, only makes the net volume of the enclosure slightly larger (as there's no magnet, basket, etc to take up space). For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction; the sound you're getting in "front" of the sub will be exactly the same as the sound from the "rear" of the sub except the phase will be inverted.

There's no reason you couldn't mount it with the cone facing the roof (with the magnet inside the box, ie the more conventional way), except depending on the mounting depth you might need to make the false floor higher. This is just an example i'm familiar with, and a possible idea... or you could go with something completely unique, with would take a lot of imagination and careful planning.

[civicCXI]

I might just do that, with sub mounted on the floor and prob an amp rack for the amps. Depend on which one is $500 enough for.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'll post the finish pic soon after i get it done.

[stanleym]

sound quality is fine its actually not that close to the door there is a goo foot between the sub and opposite boot wall... saound quality is pretty dam good......for the boxes i paid 80 but for everything with headunit i would hve spent bout 1500

[stanleym]

Nice setup you got there. I can see your subs are very close to the door. How's the sound quality?


hey just found this on where i store my pics didn't know i had it haha

well u can see how much space it leaves for u to put stuff there

let me know how u go and pm me if u need n e xtra help

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f244/stanleym_69/IMG_0186.jpg

[civicCXI]

yeh, that's plenty of space. My box might be too big. I'll definitely will either change the box (need to find the right box 1st) or mount the woofer on the floor. I'll make a visit to local car audio shop soon. My goal here is to build a budget setup that looks tidy. Hope this will also help others.

Thx for the help. Will post the result.

[mugeneration]

I wouldnt be game to put anything in my boot if i had my subs like that stanleym! lol but then im a scardy cat. My sub has a grille on it so its relatively safe from damage. What kind of amp rack were you going to make? An invisible one or just mount it to the walls? (and yes, that IS a real question, there's such a thing as an invisible amp rack for any noobs thinking im sarcastic :p)

[stanleym]

mugen all i did with the amps is place on back of seats.... still well ventilated and have had no over heating issues even through summer...... nothing has ever hit my subs etc as u would be able to tell and i very very rarely put anything hard in the boot anyway...being a chef i carry my tools in back seat of car or leave at work.... all simple


u got pioneer grill??

[mugeneration]

Yeah but i got a pioneer sub so it suits it. It blocks large objects, wont do anything with small stuff really tho. I often am carting around suitcases and stuff so i kinda need it.

As for the amp rack Q, that was directed at civicCXI, but yeah thats ok, theres nothing wrong with mounting them on the seats, its a fairly well ventilated area normally.

[ToFuBoi]

i am wanting the same setup as civicCXI in my eg sedan and have a related Q i wana ask.. if you put the box in the tyre well what can u use to hold it down as it will be sliding around?.. i want to be able to remove it later on but dont wana drill in to my car.. any ideas anyone?.. i was thinking of putting a couple rags or something down there but thats a bit dodge and now looking in to glue products

cheers

[civicCXI]

mugeneration: I was thinking about a rack that allows the two amps to be stacked on top of each other and the amps will be positioned at an angle. But now I'm thinking about getting two racks for the amps, will be placed on either side of the sub (just in front the back seat and facing the sub at an angle). I'm going to see the audio shop soon after I get my head unit.
PS: If it doesn't make sense, let me know, I'll try to make a sketch

ToFuBoi: I gues you can use some screws that goes from the floor into the box. That should hold it.

The thing about getting another box for my sub is that there's a minimum vol which is quite large (as suggested by kicker) so not sure whether it'll fit into my spare wheel space or not.

[iket]

Mate don't buy a box, especially if you have the specs for the sub itself. It should tell you what box volume will give you best sound for ported/sealed box. Measure out the size of your boot, taking into account space for removal of the box itself. you can now use your boot dimensions and work backwards to work out the dimensions of your box so you can acheive the manufacter's recommended box volume.
I bought one of these $80 boxes and it was s*** compared to a tuned one i made using the volume specs and better SD materials. But now i have changed cars and have the same problem as you do... gotta start all over again!:(

[civicCXI]

Mate don't buy a box, especially if you have the specs for the sub itself. It should tell you what box volume will give you best sound for ported/sealed box. Measure out the size of your boot, taking into account space for removal of the box itself. you can now use your boot dimensions and work backwards to work out the dimensions of your box so you can acheive the manufacter's recommended box volume.
I bought one of these $80 boxes and it was s*** compared to a tuned one i made using the volume specs and better SD materials. But now i have changed cars and have the same problem as you do... gotta start all over again!:(

yeah, that's what i thought as well. I've been researching and this is what i've found

http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/2558.html
Enclosure Compatibility

Power Handling: When the subwoofer is mounted in a sealed enclosure that has a volume from 0.88 cu/ft to 2.0 cu/ft, the woofer can handle up to 750 watts RMS. When the woofer is mounted in a vented enclosure that has a volume from 1.75 cu/ft to 3.25 cu/ft, the woofer can also handle up to 750 watts RMS.

Recommended Sealed Box Volume: When mounted in a sealed enclosure, the woofer delivers massive amounts of high-impact bass and can be driven with punishing levels of amplifier power.

Compact (minimum enclosure volume): 0.88 cu/ft; the woofer can handle up to 750 watts RMS
SQ (maximum enclosure volume): 2.0 cu/ft; the woofer can handle up to 750 watts RMS
Recommended Vented Box Volume: The vented enclosures have massive slot-loaded ports with ultra-low air velocity and hard-hitting bass. These are not your traditional port tubes; the slot-loaded ports are integrated into the enclosure design.

Compact: 1.75 cu/ft; 2.5" x 13.25" port opening; 22.5" port depth; the woofer can handle up to 750 watts RMS
Street Bass: 2.5 cu/ft; 2.5" x 13.25" port opening; 16.5" port depth; the woofer can handle up to 750 watts RMS
SPL/Deep Bass: 3.25 cu/ft; 3" x 13.25" port opening; 14.5" port depth; the woofer can handle up to 750 watts RMS

Note: The power handling specifications listed with the vented enclosure recommendations apply only when a 25Hz, 24dB/octave subsonic filter (sold separately) is used with this woofer; if a subsonic filter is not used, the power rating will decrease and excessive port noise can occur.

Cutout: The woofer will not mount in a standard enclosure with a round cutout. Instead, the woofer must be mounted in an enclosure with a 11.155" x 11.155" square opening.

Anyway, I dunno whether the box that i have now is the tuned one, it was custom made. I havent measured the volume yet and I'm doing that right after I send this message :)
Yeah, it sux to start all over again, but hey it's for the better.
Thanks for the comment

[iket]

Also, you can tune the frequency and wavelength of the sub using a CRO. [That's assuming you know how to use one] It's much more accurate than using your ears to tune it.

[muhhan]

I was also considering a fibreglass box for my sub but calculating the volume accurately becomes very difficult before you have built the box. I was also under the impression that you had to carry a spare tyre with you (as in it's defectable if you don't), even if it's not you'd be screwed if you had a flat. Although taking everything out would be a bitch at any rate.

Anyways, civicCXI, not sure what you've decided on but here is a picture of my boot install. It's not quite finished but you can get an idea of what it's like. Sub box in centre, false floor with amps mounted. All wiring is run underneath the false floor which had to be made in two pieces for it to fit into the boot. I'm still carrying the spare tyre. Yeah I've got no boot left, but at least I got good music!:D This install was done by my fiance and I who don't have much experience in trades/woodworking so I think it turned out all right. I don't know the exact cost but I'm pretty sure it was less that $500 even after I bought all the tools such as jigsaw, tablesaw and other bits and pieces. Hope that gives you some inspiration.
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5320/bootafter7ol.jpg

[civicCXI]

It's really neat setup muhhan, not quite sure y u said it's not finished yet. Yeh I'm thinking about similar setup as urs, I'm getting a new and smaller sub box I think. My current one is bigger than the recommended one.
I havent been carrying spare wheel around since I got new 17" rims last January. It can't be used anyway (differen diameter) and it's heavy. I only put it back on recently to support the weight of the sub box.
Thx heaps

[iket]

Does anyone install their amp under the seat anymore? Or am I the only one left? :o

[muhhan]

It is more the things you can't see that I haven't finished with my install civicCXI. Things that, I think, make the difference between good and great :P and will ensure a long lasting system. The things you can't see are like the new spare tyre lid, which I just installed today, made from 6mm mdf and braced with 18mm supports, painted gloss black. The old one was sagging more than an 80 year old granny's low beams! As well as laying the wires down neatly in the boot and taping them into place. And finally there is the neon light that I'm going to install on the parcel shelf which replaces that mega bright light that is originally in the boot! :) As an aside I think the whole thing took us about 3-5 months to build but that's more because I was only working on it on weekends and I was strapped for cash.

[stanleym]

Does anyone install their amp under the seat anymore? Or am I the only one left? :o


well i have heard people still doing it but i wouldn't recomend it... to much on an anclosed space in my opinion

[civicCXI]

Finally my audio setup is done. The system consists of:
Clarion DXZ866MP
12" Kicker Solobaric L7 in custom sealed box (box vol is around 1.25 cu ft)
Focal 160 V2 (2-way split)
Crossfire BMF 1500MD
Response 4 channel Amp
2F Capacitor

Here is the pic
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/civicCXI/DSC00066.jpg

I have to use that box for my sub since the L7 requires enclosure that big, so I can't make use the "false floor" idea. It turns out pretty good, sounds really loud and really good too. Credits should go to Westside Car Audio for the installation and for tuning my rear stock speakers and for giving me the Focal V2 for the price of V1 :D

[marcs]

Damn that is one big box. I'm sure you could have sized it down a bit.

[Vinnie]

it just looks massive, 1.25 cu ft is not that big for a sub box and a sub like that one wood need close to that neway... looks like a good system u got goin there with the focals good for sq and the kickers for the spl tho :D

[civicCXI]

Yeh, I wanted to size it down but the audio guy said it's the perfect box for 12" kicker L7....He said that it would be best for kicker sub to be in ported box which can be alot bigger.
The sound is great, really loud inside the car yet sounds so clear, but from the outside, It's quiet with the windows up and I didnt put any sound deadening or anything.