ECU-MAN
25-06-2006, 09:50 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
Aim: VTEC yal
Required:
must have
- B16A engine (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A.jpg)with OBDO engine loom
- EF8/9 cabin loom (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-024.jpg)
- PWO OBDO ECU
- Y1 cable clutch type gearbox
- EF8/9 power steering high pressure hose
- EF8/9 shift linkage
- custom (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-mounts-001.jpg) engine mounts. Avid mounts used in this DIY
- DA6 drive shafts and mid shaft
optional ( you dont have to ghetto stuff and saves time to have these )
- EF8/9 front hubs and calipers
- EF8/9 BMC
- EF8/9 radiator
- EF8/9 clutch cable
- EF8/9 acelerator cable
Other comments:
Hi Guys.
I have always herd about what you have to do to a Gen II CRX to install a B16A, but never had to do a convertion. So I went into this convertion blind and took everything as it came, so now I can clarify a few questions and stories I have herd in the past.
I soon found out ( as you know ) that I had to get some custom mounts and a few other goodies. The owner of this ED9 got himself a nice EF9 frontcut (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-005.jpg) :) so it comes with alot of the goodies we needed to do the job.
so here we go
STEP 1:
remove the B16A from the front cut. the basicly strip the crap out of it.
- drain all the remaining fluids
- remove the radiator, battery holder
- remove heater hoses from the engine side for now.
- unplug all the wiring loom connectors at each shock tower that go to the engine.
- disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump
- disconnect the fuel lines and Vacuum lines
- disconnect the throttle and clutch cables
- disconnect the starter motor wires and any earth leads from engine to body
- unbolt the MAP sensor and fuel pressure reg solenoid
- make sure the Air Con has no gas in it. if it does it needs to be vacuumed out by a pro with the correct equipment. undo the AC lines from the compressor
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********
- get under the front cut and undo the shift linkage and remove it
- remove the drive shafts, and the hubs while you are at it.
- undo the front and rear engine mounts. ( the ones on the front and rear cross members ) so the engine hangs from the gearbox and front of engine mounts
- secure the engine to an engine hoist and undo the remaining mounts. carefully lift out the engine.
- now remove everything els from the front cut just be carefull not to damage anything as you may need to use it in the install or you can sell off bits that are left over.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-017.jpg
STEP 2
remove the cabin wiring loom from the front cut
go nuts and strip the dash out, the loom is hiding behind all that stuff. the bellow pic is what you will end up with once you have got the loom out.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-026.jpg
pic of removed loom
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-024.jpg
its in your best intrest not to cut it.
STEP 3
remove the engine from the ED9
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-001.jpg
- drain all the fluids. power steering, engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant, Have your Air Con gas degassed by a qualified airconditioning place.
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********
- remove the battery and battery holder, remove radiator,
- remove heater hoses from the engine side for now.
- unplug all the wiring loom connectors at each shock tower that go to the engine. leave the injector resistor box in the engine bay.
- disconnect the speedo cable.
- disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump. high pressure and low pressure.
- disconnect the fuel lines, high press and return line. remove the vacuum line that goes to the booster.
- disconnect the throttle and clutch cables.
- disconnect the starter motor wires and any earth leads from engine to body
- unbolt the MAP sensor and evap purg solenoid
- make sure the Air Con has no gas in it. if it does it needs to be vacuumed out by a pro with the correct equipment. undo the AC lines from the compressor
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********
- get under the front cut and undo the shift linkage from the gearbox
- remove the drive shafts,
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-019.jpg
- undo the exhaust from the down pipe to the cat
- undo the front and rear engine mounts. ( the ones on the front and rear cross members ) so the engine hangs from the gearbox and front of engine mounts
- remove the front cross member and undo the caster rods from the lower control arms.
engine bay should be pretty stripped now and ready to lift engine out
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-020.jpg
- secure the engine to an engine hoist and undo the remaining mounts. carefully lift out the engine.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-021.jpg
STEP 4.
prepare the B16A. change the timming belt and adjust the tappets. check the water pump. if you want change the clutch and stuff like that.
I just changed the timming belt and checked the water pump and adjusted tappets. it is much easier to do this when the engine is out of the car.
STEP 5.
test fit the B16A with the new mounts.
- fit the side engine mount to the front of the engine. ( timming belt area ). you will have to use a nut and bolt for the left hole and a few washers and a nut on the right. the washers are important as you will find the thread stops on the stud that is on the engine.
- do not fit the rear mount that sits on the rear cross member yet. nor the front cross member mount.( their will be no front cross member mount )
- drop the B16A in
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-002.jpg
- you will soon find the engine is a tight fit :). lower the geargox end in 1st so it goes under the gearbox chassis mount bracket, line up the front mount ( timming belt side ) with the chassis mount . drop it in and put the bolt in tempoarily.
- now raise the gearbox side up into place. fit the gearbox mount to the gearbox and then slide the bolt in to secure the engine to the chassis.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-004.jpg
as you can see above the engine is sitting in there with only the two side mounts ( red arrows in pic above )
now its time to test a few things
- I test fit the clutch and throttle cables to find out they dont perfectly match up. since I had the EF9 ones ill use those rather than waist time and ghetto the D16A8 ones to suit, they will be fitted later.
- I placed the speedo cable in the area where it goes. the EF9 has a VSS not cable speedo. ( easy fixed :) )
- I also lined up the heater hoses. the hose that comes from the heater tap fits perfectly. the hose that comes directly from the heater core ( firewall ) did fit but was real tight. So I will remove it later and fit a new hose.
- the high pressure fuel line of the B16A fits perfectly
- the high pressure power steering hose does not line up so that will be swapped.
- the D series shift linkage will not fit either.
- the power steering pulley hits a AC line. ( red arrows in pic bellow )
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-007.jpg
- thats easy fixed with some gental action with the big screw driver.
- the exhaust wont line up, so Ill ghetto that to get the car to a exhaust shop.
- check the altenator clearance to the chassis. it comes close so mark the chassis on the high spot. ( where it comes close to the alteranor pulley ).
- tempoarily fit the AC compressor and do the same as you did for the alteantor. ( see pics bellow )
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-010.jpg
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-008.jpg
- everything else looks good
STEP 6
remove (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-002.jpg) the B16A from the car.
STEP 7
prepare the engine bay
- remove the power steering high pressure hose, and fit the EF9 High pressure hose. one 10mm bolt on the cross member and the nut under the cover on the rack it self.
note the EF9 hose has a pressure switch on it.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/Enginebay-preinstall-ready-002.jpg
- remove the D16A8 shifter and linkage. take the shift knob off, undo the center console screws and remove it. unbolt the shifter from under the car. 2x 12mm bolts in pic bellow
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-Shifter-install-001.jpg
- pull out the D series shifter and fit the B seires shifter from the EF9. refit the center consol and shift knob.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/Enginebay-preinstall-ready-001.jpg
- with your hammer. gently smack the chassis where the altenator and AC compressor pulleys come close to it. ( from the marking we made earlier when we test fit the B16A )
see pic bellow, yellow circles.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/Enginebay-preinstall-ready-005.jpg
- remove the VSS and its pick up from the gearbox. undo the one 10mm bolt. ( yellow circle bellow )
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-VSS-pickup-001.jpg
- remove the cable speedo pickup from your D16A8 gearbox. and fit it to the Y1 tranny the way your removed it. lube the seal with some oil.
it will fit and work.
bellow is a pic of both the speedo drive pickups, the top one is from the EF9 and the bottom one is for the cable speedo from the D16A8 in the yellow circle.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-VSS-pickup-002.jpg
__________________
Aim: VTEC yal
Required:
must have
- B16A engine (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A.jpg)with OBDO engine loom
- EF8/9 cabin loom (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-024.jpg)
- PWO OBDO ECU
- Y1 cable clutch type gearbox
- EF8/9 power steering high pressure hose
- EF8/9 shift linkage
- custom (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-mounts-001.jpg) engine mounts. Avid mounts used in this DIY
- DA6 drive shafts and mid shaft
optional ( you dont have to ghetto stuff and saves time to have these )
- EF8/9 front hubs and calipers
- EF8/9 BMC
- EF8/9 radiator
- EF8/9 clutch cable
- EF8/9 acelerator cable
Other comments:
Hi Guys.
I have always herd about what you have to do to a Gen II CRX to install a B16A, but never had to do a convertion. So I went into this convertion blind and took everything as it came, so now I can clarify a few questions and stories I have herd in the past.
I soon found out ( as you know ) that I had to get some custom mounts and a few other goodies. The owner of this ED9 got himself a nice EF9 frontcut (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-005.jpg) :) so it comes with alot of the goodies we needed to do the job.
so here we go
STEP 1:
remove the B16A from the front cut. the basicly strip the crap out of it.
- drain all the remaining fluids
- remove the radiator, battery holder
- remove heater hoses from the engine side for now.
- unplug all the wiring loom connectors at each shock tower that go to the engine.
- disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump
- disconnect the fuel lines and Vacuum lines
- disconnect the throttle and clutch cables
- disconnect the starter motor wires and any earth leads from engine to body
- unbolt the MAP sensor and fuel pressure reg solenoid
- make sure the Air Con has no gas in it. if it does it needs to be vacuumed out by a pro with the correct equipment. undo the AC lines from the compressor
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********
- get under the front cut and undo the shift linkage and remove it
- remove the drive shafts, and the hubs while you are at it.
- undo the front and rear engine mounts. ( the ones on the front and rear cross members ) so the engine hangs from the gearbox and front of engine mounts
- secure the engine to an engine hoist and undo the remaining mounts. carefully lift out the engine.
- now remove everything els from the front cut just be carefull not to damage anything as you may need to use it in the install or you can sell off bits that are left over.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-017.jpg
STEP 2
remove the cabin wiring loom from the front cut
go nuts and strip the dash out, the loom is hiding behind all that stuff. the bellow pic is what you will end up with once you have got the loom out.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-026.jpg
pic of removed loom
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/EF9-B16A-removal-024.jpg
its in your best intrest not to cut it.
STEP 3
remove the engine from the ED9
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-001.jpg
- drain all the fluids. power steering, engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant, Have your Air Con gas degassed by a qualified airconditioning place.
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********
- remove the battery and battery holder, remove radiator,
- remove heater hoses from the engine side for now.
- unplug all the wiring loom connectors at each shock tower that go to the engine. leave the injector resistor box in the engine bay.
- disconnect the speedo cable.
- disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump. high pressure and low pressure.
- disconnect the fuel lines, high press and return line. remove the vacuum line that goes to the booster.
- disconnect the throttle and clutch cables.
- disconnect the starter motor wires and any earth leads from engine to body
- unbolt the MAP sensor and evap purg solenoid
- make sure the Air Con has no gas in it. if it does it needs to be vacuumed out by a pro with the correct equipment. undo the AC lines from the compressor
******** NEVER VENT R12 GAS TO THE ATMOSPHERE **********
- get under the front cut and undo the shift linkage from the gearbox
- remove the drive shafts,
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-019.jpg
- undo the exhaust from the down pipe to the cat
- undo the front and rear engine mounts. ( the ones on the front and rear cross members ) so the engine hangs from the gearbox and front of engine mounts
- remove the front cross member and undo the caster rods from the lower control arms.
engine bay should be pretty stripped now and ready to lift engine out
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-020.jpg
- secure the engine to an engine hoist and undo the remaining mounts. carefully lift out the engine.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/D16A8-Engine-remove-021.jpg
STEP 4.
prepare the B16A. change the timming belt and adjust the tappets. check the water pump. if you want change the clutch and stuff like that.
I just changed the timming belt and checked the water pump and adjusted tappets. it is much easier to do this when the engine is out of the car.
STEP 5.
test fit the B16A with the new mounts.
- fit the side engine mount to the front of the engine. ( timming belt area ). you will have to use a nut and bolt for the left hole and a few washers and a nut on the right. the washers are important as you will find the thread stops on the stud that is on the engine.
- do not fit the rear mount that sits on the rear cross member yet. nor the front cross member mount.( their will be no front cross member mount )
- drop the B16A in
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-002.jpg
- you will soon find the engine is a tight fit :). lower the geargox end in 1st so it goes under the gearbox chassis mount bracket, line up the front mount ( timming belt side ) with the chassis mount . drop it in and put the bolt in tempoarily.
- now raise the gearbox side up into place. fit the gearbox mount to the gearbox and then slide the bolt in to secure the engine to the chassis.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-004.jpg
as you can see above the engine is sitting in there with only the two side mounts ( red arrows in pic above )
now its time to test a few things
- I test fit the clutch and throttle cables to find out they dont perfectly match up. since I had the EF9 ones ill use those rather than waist time and ghetto the D16A8 ones to suit, they will be fitted later.
- I placed the speedo cable in the area where it goes. the EF9 has a VSS not cable speedo. ( easy fixed :) )
- I also lined up the heater hoses. the hose that comes from the heater tap fits perfectly. the hose that comes directly from the heater core ( firewall ) did fit but was real tight. So I will remove it later and fit a new hose.
- the high pressure fuel line of the B16A fits perfectly
- the high pressure power steering hose does not line up so that will be swapped.
- the D series shift linkage will not fit either.
- the power steering pulley hits a AC line. ( red arrows in pic bellow )
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-007.jpg
- thats easy fixed with some gental action with the big screw driver.
- the exhaust wont line up, so Ill ghetto that to get the car to a exhaust shop.
- check the altenator clearance to the chassis. it comes close so mark the chassis on the high spot. ( where it comes close to the alteranor pulley ).
- tempoarily fit the AC compressor and do the same as you did for the alteantor. ( see pics bellow )
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-010.jpg
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-008.jpg
- everything else looks good
STEP 6
remove (http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-testfit-002.jpg) the B16A from the car.
STEP 7
prepare the engine bay
- remove the power steering high pressure hose, and fit the EF9 High pressure hose. one 10mm bolt on the cross member and the nut under the cover on the rack it self.
note the EF9 hose has a pressure switch on it.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/Enginebay-preinstall-ready-002.jpg
- remove the D16A8 shifter and linkage. take the shift knob off, undo the center console screws and remove it. unbolt the shifter from under the car. 2x 12mm bolts in pic bellow
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-Shifter-install-001.jpg
- pull out the D series shifter and fit the B seires shifter from the EF9. refit the center consol and shift knob.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/Enginebay-preinstall-ready-001.jpg
- with your hammer. gently smack the chassis where the altenator and AC compressor pulleys come close to it. ( from the marking we made earlier when we test fit the B16A )
see pic bellow, yellow circles.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/Enginebay-preinstall-ready-005.jpg
- remove the VSS and its pick up from the gearbox. undo the one 10mm bolt. ( yellow circle bellow )
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-VSS-pickup-001.jpg
- remove the cable speedo pickup from your D16A8 gearbox. and fit it to the Y1 tranny the way your removed it. lube the seal with some oil.
it will fit and work.
bellow is a pic of both the speedo drive pickups, the top one is from the EF9 and the bottom one is for the cable speedo from the D16A8 in the yellow circle.
http://ecu-man.com/diy/ed9-b16a/B16A-VSS-pickup-002.jpg
__________________