Still have idling problems.. Assistance?

[jdm16]

Still facing idling problems. Everything has been checked and everything has been changed. As per previous thread - IACV checked/changed, and almost everything bar injectors has been changed. I doubt the inj. could cause this.

Finally got the CEL codes - 3, 7, 9 which is the MAP, TPS and CID Sensor. I have tried new map sensor, new throttle body (b16a2) and also adjusting the a new TPS (on my original TB) to my factory TPS settings. Closed - 0.70 and WOT 4.28. This is the settings off my original TB and now adjusted onto the new TPS.

Still starts cold 2k, then idles to 1,500 then to 900 cold but its rough. Its better than what it was. But when warm it hunts from 1,200 to 1,600 revs. Then back down to 1,100 (rough).

I know it possibly will be something so bloody small causing this - but I just want it fixed? Anyone out there know of a solution to a similar problem?

[CRXer]

By "everything" I assume you mean thermostat as well?

[DomenEK]

I haven't seen your other thread, but I'm assuming you just did a conversion?

If so, roughly how long was the motor sitting around for?


I had a similar problem when I got my car back from the smash repairers. The thing would hunt around at idle. I was told it was some air valve in the intake/TB somewhere that would need replacing due to the car sitting around and some moisture getting in and rusting the valve so it sticks. I was quoted something like $500 to get it replaced with a new item.

I couldn't be bothered paying that much, so I thought I'd live with it and see how it goes.

As it turns out it fixed itself, and now idles smoothly. 6 months down the track and all is perfect.

I reckon if everything has been checked and all seems sweet, then just see how she goes, might do the same as mine and right itself within about 2-3 weeks.

[jdm16]

CRXer: Yep thermostat was replaced.

DomenEK: And the car has had the conversion in March 2005. So its quite old and has been run daily since then. Slowly it got worse and I neglected it and now I just want it fixed. Been tweakin this, and tweaking that but its wierd.

I dont know why the MAP is still going off on the ECU when it was replaced.

[JasonGilholme]

Did you replace all the wiring between the MAP sensor and the ECU?? You may have a section that is running more resistance then the rest. This may explain a few of your other codes as well.

Make sure when you're reconnecting any wires that you do it properly using solder and heatshrink, or anything else that is just as substantial.

Hope it goes well.

Jase

[CRXer]

Disconnect MAP & ECU(ign off) & identify D17,D19,D21 wires at the MAP end.

Plug ECU back in,ign on,at MAP end test 5V D17 wire to ground first,to see if actually 5V,then test D17>D21 wires for 5V to see if D21 gives good ground.
Then test D19>D21 wires for 5V.

If all good ign off,replug MAP,ign on, then test for 3V D17>D21 at MAP end.Might be a bit difficult without cutting wires but I just depin the MAP plug & wrap some skinny wire tails around the pin & repin plug,leaving little test wires hanging out.

[jdm16]

Im also told that closed throttle should be 0.50 and WOT should be 5.00 or something? Anyone know much about the default TPS sensor. Mine is a lil' off then!

CRXer: Will trying that out tonight and see what it does.

[egads]

checked the fitv?

[CRXer]

Yeah,fast idle might not be closing properly,see if its still spitting out air when the engine warm.

Most of the TPS figures ive seen are between 0.3-0.5v(mostly in the 0.45-0.5v range),maybe the ECU-MAN can give exact figures.

At WOT anything from 4-5V,sorry I cant give exact,I only know my D16A & B18C figures,the B16A1 was 0.3v & 4.5v Im fairly sure.

[BananaBoat]

TPS should be a ROCK SOLID 0.45V when idling closed!

It should not vary, if it does, you WILL have hunting idle problems

[CRXer]

^ In case your refering to me,I meant the fixed figures are in this range for different engines.Trying to point out that 0.7V seems a little out of the ordinary

[BananaBoat]

^ In case your refering to me,I meant the fixed figures are in this range for different engines.Trying to point out that 0.7V seems a little out of the ordinary

not referring to you champ, just making a comment... and your comments in fact are right.

0.45V Closed
4.5V WOT

0.7V is rediculously out of calibration. Why people mess with these things beats the shit out of me, especially when they dont appear to have a workshop manual handy!

[barefootbonzai]

it's a long shot matty, but you might have a vacuum leak somewhere.

[jdm16]

Pulled apart my distributor and its all had some kind of product malfunction. It was a repco (OEM-style) replacement and its full of that red shit. Way too much for a 8 month old dizzy.

So will have to get a new dissy as the CID sensor (#1 cyl) made me think it was the dizzy.

Adjusting TPS tonight now to your settings. Thanks for your help guys with the TPS figures and ill keep you posted.

Anyone got any b16a2 dizzys?