DA9 B16A Problem Please Help OB1 Kenobi!

[tseesinngwailo]

Hey All,

Started my car last night to come home from work, and just as I pulled out the driveway, i started running realy rough and wouldnt idle, was down arond 400rpm and sounded like it was gonna stall.

About 5 mins later as I took off from some lights, at about 4500rpm, there was a dead spot and the car lost poer, and the engine check light came on!

The car then ran like it was on 2 cylinders, so i pulled over and turned the car off, i let it sit for a while then turned back on, and it started as normal, but still bad idling, still pulls OK and can engage VTEC, but still feels slower than before.

I removed the ECU fuses lat night and checked all the plugs to the injectors etc, seem tight, only thing I found was the (+) terminal connection on my battery was loose enough to turn by hand, so tightened this up.

This morning after replacing the fuses, started and let it idle for 10 mins to reset the air/fuel etc, but even after that still a bit funny on idle.

Most times it now idles around 800rpm, but still has moments where I think it could stall.

Have just filled up this morning with 98Oct Unleaded in case fuel was dirty

Up to this point, had got 437km out of 40 litres, still had 10 L to go.

Any ideas what would make the engine check light come on?

Cheers, Chris

[ECU-MAN]

you should of check the caomputer for fault codes before you reset it

that would of pointed you in the right direction.

[FR33K]

Yeh if you lift up the carpet on the passenger side you'll see a little hole with a red light flashing.. count the short and long flashes and that will give you the problem..
long flash = 1st number
short flash = 2nd number

eg flaaaaaaaash flash = 11

all the codes are listed here:
http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/ecucodes

[tseesinngwailo]

Thanks for that, will do a check tonight and see if i can work out whats wrong, its always had a loss of power at times, maybe just a dud plug or sensor, cheers chris

[FR33K]

i had flat spots as well.. servicing does wonders !!

[tseesinngwailo]

I have looked at the ECU, there is no hole in the casing of it (its a B16a with OBD1 ?) I have also tried to do that thing where you short out a plug on the wring loom near the ecu, and when i do with the ignition in acc or on, the engine check light comes on, but does not flash, does this mean no error code?

[CRXer]

Short the connector with the ign off,then turn it to the on position.

If it stays on,solid,then no code is stored.

[tseesinngwailo]

Short the connector with the ign off,then turn it to the on position.

If it stays on,solid,then no code is stored. Hey, thanks for that, I was thinking might put a switch in for future haha, wish I hadnt reset the ecu before checking codes :(

[CRXer]

Yep,I put a switch on mine,gf kept stealing my paperclip for her hair.....

[ECU-MAN]

you have to wait till your engine light comes on again to register a fault code.

[tseesinngwailo]

Just an update, it did it again and i checked for a code, got 3 flashes, this means MAP sensor wiring/sensor fault, but now car is running OK again, sometimes just before it stuffs up again, sometimes the altenator light flashes as you get to vtec, does this sound like wiring probs? or is my altenator about to go? can the MAP sensor be intermittent in its working? its just a vaccuum sensor isnt it?? Thanks, Chris

[ECU-MAN]

you need to measure the battery voltage when the car is at idle and the highbeams and AC, rear demistor, blower fan on full.

this puts a bit of load on the altenator and will be a good test to see if its failing.

post up what voltage you get.