4-LED parkers

[mrwillz]

i've got the 4-led type parkers in the license plate area

jus wondering if its a bad thing in the long term
i no they're jus parkers
but does th same apply as using over rated bulbs for ur headlights?

so far i've jus experienced one bulb playing up.( i dont think its the connectors) as i've replaced the bulbs and is working fine agen and the bulb was the problem itself

wot do u ppl use in the license plate area (other then stock)???



note: i used 4-led type instead becuz the normal (1LED) is not bright nuff

[Alpine]

What does this look like on your car? Pics if possible, thanks

[destrukshn]

LED's draw less power than normal lights.

[mrwillz]

^ yes obviously..

pics for u alpine ( i luv the look)
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/mrwillz/DSC01064.jpg

[dsp26]

i have the a 5 led one at the front....

i think its coz they heat up a bit and any sort of wiring/solder melts.

my parkers look gay now as 2 of the 5 flicker.

i've even had the festton ones for the interior dome.... 1 by 1 they start flickering eventually and 1 by 1 they die also....

[civiceg9]

i have the a 5 led one at the front....

i think its coz they heat up a bit and any sort of wiring/solder melts.

my parkers look gay now as 2 of the 5 flicker.

i've even had the festton ones for the interior dome.... 1 by 1 they start flickering eventually and 1 by 1 they die also....

If you going to get LED, go for Polarg, Raybrid, Carmate, IPF etc etc
they are very pricy but they dont die on you in 6mths
LED should have a life span of around 5 - 10x longer then a standard bulb. Life time of the car really. If u got it from Kmart, just return it back to them lol :cool:

[underc35a]

All LED bulbs you put on your car will eventually "die" if you do not give it a steady voltage, your alternator will most likely give out anywhere between 11v-15v which is a big difference. If you want to put LEDs on your cars the best way is of course to make your own and protect it with a regulator.

[DOHCTR Coopz!]

i had the 4 LED parkers... they lasted less then a week... they started going on me in the first few days... biggest waste of $15.. POS's!!!

[mrwillz]

lol sal
ahh yeah
one of myn started to flicker and die out but i got it exchanged for another set
so um i hope they last while they can
LOLZX
it does look good tho ^^

[civiceg9]

All car voltage jumps from 11v-14v, this is normal.
had my Raybrids for 2yrs still works fine hehe :D

[Fr3aKi3]

I've had my LED parkers for a while now and i've had no probs whatsoever, although they're only a single LED.

Only cost me 8bux as well from undergroundimports

[mrwillz]

yea single LED ones are fine.. we all no that..
:)
do u haf em in ur license plate area? if so post

[Mst_Mugen]

watch out though.. i got done by the popo for my leds... *shakes head* gave me a $45 fine :thumbdwn:

[aaronng]

watch out though.. i got done by the popo for my leds... *shakes head* gave me a $45 fine :thumbdwn:
What colour were your LEDs?

[anfz]

do these raybrig brands etc have ones that emit a white light ? I got a pair from cyber century lasted me about 2 weeks and they were like $14 lol

[mrwillz]

^lol
myn are tfrom there

[tseesinngwailo]

I got some in from HK, and they lasted about 2 weeks, one flickered and the other died, but will look at getting Raybrig, my headlight bulbs are that brand and never had an issue (even though they cost $90)

[mrwillz]

90bux is alot of money......
:(((((

[dsp26]

All LED bulbs you put on your car will eventually "die" if you do not give it a steady voltage, your alternator will most likely give out anywhere between 11v-15v which is a big difference. If you want to put LEDs on your cars the best way is of course to make your own and protect it with a regulator.

thats exactly what i thought hence why i've held off my rear view camera project as it requires a steady 12v at 50mA which requires a custom made regulator.

regardless of the price and quality of the LEDs unless it is regulated, the resistors inside them do little to protect....

i have a diagram of the regulator circuit if anyone is interested.... it was a little contraption thanks to a "MacGuyver" on another forum ;)

[dsp26]

^^^edit fair enough:thumbsup:

but i believe this next post to be of genuine help to everyone in terms of longevity of 12v devices. its a regulator setup de-limited to 10v for safety.


Hmm... I just re-read that post dsp26, and mate putting a dropping resistor in that application would be a simple but inefficient way of doing it, What would be better is to run a 7809 +9v 3pin regulator with a 1V zener diode in the earth leg to ground. That will lift the earth point by 1V thus giving a 10V output (instead of 9V) with respect to ground.

That way too full current capability is available through the reg (TO220 package has a 1A capacity with heatsink), and not as much energy is lost as heat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/dsp26/basic10vReg.jpg

[underc35a]

your from hidplanet forums i believe?

I made a custom third brake light with superflux leds thats protected by a LM317 circuit.

[Nuttz]

i made my own ones using LEDs from jaycar.. didnt have any problems for 3 months.. a bit ghetto but works

[tseesinngwailo]

^^^edit fair enough:thumbsup:

but i believe this next post to be of genuine help to everyone in terms of longevity of 12v devices. its a regulator setup de-limited to 10v for safety.
Hey there, can this circuit be adjusted for 12 volt out? and whats the max current it can supply? I am working on rear tail/brake-lights and rear view camera (I want it like the JGTC cars!) projects, and help is appreciated :) Cheers, Chris

[dsp26]

^^lol i gotta re-formulate it or get the original poster to do it for me... D&T class from high school was years ago hahaha.

i'm pretty sure it's just the zener diode that needs replacement but will confirm. i too am doing a rear view camera coz i saw one on a gtr with a lcd nismo dash on SAU.

the above schematic is quite useful, it would save alot of 12v devices including strobe kits that die within months due to a 14.4v feed.

keep in mind that an engine that is off should be around ~12v and one that is on around ~14.4v hence why neons and sh!t are for "car show purposes" only. does this however apply for decks??

underc35a: curious on your circuit as i was planning on doing custom brakes as is tseesinngwailo above. would you by any chance be willing to share the schematics?




jus wondering if its a bad thing in the long term
i no they're jus parkers
but does th same apply as using over rated bulbs for ur headlights?

so far i've jus experienced one bulb playing up.( i dont think its the connectors) as i've replaced the bulbs and is working fine agen and the bulb was the problem itself

wot do u ppl use in the license plate area (other then stock)???

its better in the long run. i've left my parkers on all day during work (all my dash and domes are LED also) and my then 270cca battery cranked fine. my backup alarm had gone off by lunch time before when i had all normal globes coz battery was drained.

bulbs playing up is a problem.. it ALWAYS happens with multi LEDs. the only application i've known them to survive is in the dash where you have the brightness adjuster (adjustable resistor). best way for 12v devices to survive with a 14.4v feed is to do exactly as Nutz mentioned above. get the specs of the LED and basic ohms law applies so pick the correct resistor to drop to 12v from an assumed 14.4v... but first check the voltage coming out of the parker pins.

as for license plate area, THE best are the philips diamond vision parkers that you can get seperately, though not as white as LEDs filament globes will always produce more LUMEN. light intensity and lumen are seperate things... depends what you want..
LED = Intensity
Filament = Lumen



fark that was a long post.................