JDM front question

[vteccoupe]

Hi, does converting from a AUDM front to a JDM front needs any welding? i was told that the original AUDM front radiator support is welded to the body and thus had to b removed and reweld the jdm radiator support onto it. Is dat true? As i always tot that its just a straight simple swap? can anyone who has done this conversion please enlighten ? Thanks :thumbsup:

[Q_ball]

Yes, you need to cut the AUDM support off, and weld the JDM support on.
Welding will make it secure, however I do know of someone that has meerly bolted the radiator support on.
I wouldnt be confident that it will be secure tho.

[Teggy-Vtir]

thats true..

[Paul1985]

If you arent confident with welding or dont have a welder, im sure you could get some specialist or maybe even an exhaust shop to do a quick job for you. May cost something like $50...

That is if you are dedicated enough to go ahead with it.

[vteccoupe]

If you arent confident with welding or dont have a welder, im sure you could get some specialist or maybe even an exhaust shop to do a quick job for you. May cost something like $50...

That is if you are dedicated enough to go ahead with it.

cz i have been quoted quite high a price for labour for just welding the radiator support on...at 1st i tot its just bolt on and off of the panels and the radiator support..didnt noe i need to weld it on...anyway wld this welding job be a big job? any1 who has done this jdm conversion wld like to shed some light here? :angel:

[Paul1985]

i strongly doubt it would be a big welding job.
Do you know someone with a welder??

Should not be extremely pricey IMO if its ready to be welded and thats all you need done. Do all the prep work yourself (remover all thats needed etc).

It will take 10mins for a professional most likely.

[Q_ball]

cz i have been quoted quite high a price for labour for just welding the radiator support on...at 1st i tot its just bolt on and off of the panels and the radiator support..didnt noe i need to weld it on...anyway wld this welding job be a big job? any1 who has done this jdm conversion wld like to shed some light here? :angel:
On average you're looking at roughly 1k for the panel work.
i.e. Cutting and the re-welding of the radiator support, as well as the application and alignment of the fenders, grill, headlights, bonnet and bumper.

You then have to allow for the painting of the panels which will cost you another 1k or so.

[vteccoupe]

On average you're looking at roughly 1k for the panel work.
i.e. Cutting and the re-welding of the radiator support, as well as the application and alignment of the fenders, grill, headlights and bumper.

1k meaning just labour to weld and put on the panels?

[Q_ball]

Give or take a bit depending on the place thats doin the work, yeh :)

[vteccoupe]

Give or take a bit depending on the place thats doin the work, yeh :)

damn...dat seems alot :(

[Paul1985]

On average you're looking at roughly 1k for the panel work.
i.e. Cutting and the re-welding of the radiator support, as well as the application and alignment of the fenders, grill, headlights, bonnet and bumper.

You then have to allow for the painting of the panels which will cost you another 1k or so.
damn.. couldnt you just buy the JDM rad support??
If you have all the appropriate parts surely not much custom work will be needed... im sure i seen hondar selling one in one of his OEM threads for around $300/400..

[vteccoupe]

damn.. couldnt you just buy the JDM rad support??
If you have all the appropriate parts surely not much custom work will be needed... im sure i seen hondar selling one in one of his OEM threads for around $300/400..

yup the deal i got includes the rad support..just dat we have to remove the audm radiator and weld the jdm radiator on

[fatboyz39]

JDM fronts can be bolted on :p

I would suggest getting a panel beater to put it on.

[yourfather]

On average you're looking at roughly 1k for the panel work.
i.e. Cutting and the re-welding of the radiator support, as well as the application and alignment of the fenders, grill, headlights, bonnet and bumper.

You then have to allow for the painting of the panels which will cost you another 1k or so.

i doubt it would be that much Q.

I paid 550 for rear bar, side skirts and front lip to be fitted and painted.

[Q_ball]

The jap radiator support itself is roughly 300 bucks.
Fenders, bonnet, bumper, jap itr lip, grill, rad support and headlights will cost roughly 1500.
Labour for the fitment and welding will cost another 1k (roughly) on top, and possibly another 1k for painting.
End result its about a 3500 job.x

[Paul1985]

yup the deal i got includes the rad support..just dat we have to remove the audm radiator and weld the jdm radiator on
Dude, thats a small job for a welder.
If you are worried about this, then dont be. If this is the hardest part of the swap then do it!! no big deal.

If you try some different places im sure you could get someone to do it for a reasonable price.. might charge you for an hours labour.

[Q_ball]

JDM fronts can be bolted on :p
Not safe at all!

i doubt it would be that much Q.

I paid 550 for rear bar, side skirts and front lip to be fitted and painted.
Fitment and spraying of lips and the rear bar are no where near as demanding as welding and aligning a whole front end :)

[yourfather]

yeah but you're saying 1,000 for welding and 1,000 for paint. so that's 2K, I'm not saying you could get it done for like 600 bucks or whatever. I'm just saying, that I don't think that the job would be a 2k one.

[Paul1985]

Personally if someone quoted me $1000 for the welding and alignment.. for that id purchase myself a welder and do the job myself. If it was for a complete job, as in painting, welding and aligning then id probably go for it.

[Q_ball]

yeah but you're saying 1,000 for welding and 1,000 for paint. so that's 2K, I'm not saying you could get it done for like 600 bucks or whatever. I'm just saying, that I don't think that the job would be a 2k one.
It is a 2k job ;)
The other 1.5k is for parts :)

The only way you could save yourself some money is if you did some of the work yourself, fitting or painting.

[yourfather]

It is a 2k job ;)
The other 1.5k is for parts :)

The only way you could save yourself some money is if you did some of the work yourself, fitting or painting.

Ahh i get it... cool. I thought you meant 2K just for fitment, sprayment and alignment..

[fatboyz39]

i have done it and its more then $600 worth of work. Some panel beaters want $350-$600 alone just to take off and weld on the new radiator support.

Then aligning up the fenders, bonnet, frontbar.

So $800-$1000 isn't out of the question. Sparying the panels will cost abouts $600-$1k.

[fatboyz39]

Not safe at all!



Jap fronts arn't safe at all. Thats why they didn't release it in Aus. Radiator support is there just to hold everything together. Not the strongest part of the front end.:)

[vteccoupe]

Jap fronts arn't safe at all. Thats why they didn't release it in Aus. Radiator support is there just to hold everything together. Not the strongest part of the front end.:)

u've got pm.. :thumbsup:

[Q_ball]

Jap fronts arn't safe at all. Thats why they didn't release it in Aus. Radiator support is there just to hold everything together. Not the strongest part of the front end.:)
True, the Jap front is no where near as strong and safe as the Aus spec front.
However, in saying that, a welded front end - is always goin to be more stable and stronger than a bolted on front, provided the weld is of a good quality ;)

[Jomsy]

the only bit you need to change is the "T" section on the rad support, ie the top and middle, and latch section,it need to be welded and aligned correctly, you also need to trim some metal off around the headlights, its very very easy and is only around $100 for a panel shop to do. every thing else bolts straight on so you can do it your self in the garage

I have done a JDM conversion on my car so i know what im talking about

[tofu R]

True, the Jap front is no where near as strong and safe as the Aus spec front.
However, in saying that, a welded front end - is always goin to be more stable and stronger than a bolted on front, provided the weld is of a good quality ;)
Totally not true ..

the only part of the front that would be useful in "safety" is the reinforcement bar ..

pictured below
http://www.boomplustoys.net/images/JDM%20Honda%20Parts%20Cars/JDM%20DC2%20Front%20Reinforcment%20Bar.JPG


Now i know that its all over the american forums that its not as safe ..
BUT .. thats because the US has tighter laws .. and their rebar is about literally 10 times as thick as that..

but our audm dc2rs have the same rebars as the jdm front ..
so saying that they arent as safe as audm .. is total :thumbdwn:

[Q_ball]

Well my arguement is that if the JDM front was anywhere near as safe as the AUDM one, then Australian road laws would comply the JDM teg as well as the AUDM.

[Jomsy]

the only real difference is the headlights and bonnet, every thing metal is nearly identical, the Bumper support, bumper extension and guards are "almost" the same, and the plastic bumper/lip wouldnt really effect ADR rules

i think at the end of the day it was cheaper for honda Australia to bring in a Chassis that was already here given that the dc2 shape arrived in 94 and it would have under went all the crash testing then, instead of redoing the process for 400 type R's

[tofu R]

Jomsy is right..

from what i read the history of the itr was that the 96 was brought out with its JDM face.. and it was a hit in japan .. but in 98 it was released to the world ..

audm usdm eudm , the works .. even jdm ..
but it wasn't accepted well in japan .. so honda japan went back to the jap front ..
its got nothing to do with safety at all ..